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Old 08-12-2015, 04:01 PM   #1
appleking45
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Default How do you remove a rusted bolt on exhaust?

I'm trying to change my exhaust to a cat back, but i can't because the bolts are rusted, i tried spraying wd 40 on it, it still wont turn, if i turn too hard i think the bolts will break or threads will be destroyed. Has anyone ever got a rusted bolt off of their exhaust before?
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:18 PM   #2
danbolsom
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yeah pb blaster and a map gas torch and an impact wrench. first get it really hot then soak it with pb blaster then apply more heat then let it sit for a while then more heat then hit it with your impact wrench
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:27 PM   #3
609blk15wrx
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Or...reciprocating saw and new bolts! For when you get really frustrated!
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #4
sc00by4life
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aerokroil.

if you haven't heard of it. look it up. thank me later.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:45 PM   #5
Dayglow
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If it is fully seized, like was the case for mine from those NE winters, I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder. The rust had fully bonded the metals together so there was no going back for that exhaust. If you need to preserve the flange for mounting you can drill it out once you get it apart and use fresh nuts and bolts.
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Old 08-12-2015, 05:19 PM   #6
Tubtub
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Try some PB blaster or BG In-force and let it soak in over night or you could try and heat it with a torch, let it cool off and try to remove it. Anytime putting exhaust components back together use anti-seize on the threads of everything. Worse case, cut it off.

I really like the BG in-force.
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Old 08-12-2015, 05:25 PM   #7
JavaBot
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If it's the spring bolts you're doomed! Cut flange and weld a new one if torch doesn't work.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:49 PM   #8
srm86
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I just installed my catback. Tried to take off axle back first but bolts were way too seized. Cat side were easier to take off so I just left it one piece. Spring bolts broke off while connected still. I just used a wrench to unscrew it out from a little piece sticking out.
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:34 AM   #9
johnnyhle
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Heat! Use a blow torch and heat up the end that its threaded into.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iUPn868Pic
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Old 08-15-2015, 01:33 AM   #10
jayp1306
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I remove rusty bolts on the regular. You need a oxyacetylene torch, not map which gets too hot too fast. It will take longer to heat up, once the head is glowing red, spray with aero kroil. As its cooling down take and hit it with a hammer a bunch, then reheat it til red hot. Let it cool naturally for about 10 minutes and spray again with kroil. Let that soak for a few minutes and use a breaker bar. I've gotten bolts out this way that previous a 1/2 impact socket on a breaker bar with a ten foot cheater couldn't do. Got 10 years experience working on rusty stuff in New England.
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:14 AM   #11
buck22
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If you don't own an impact gun/air gun then I would recommend taking it to an exhaust shop and asking them to attempt to loosen the bolts with theirs. An exhaust shop will have experience with this exact type of thing. I'd be surprised if they charged you more than a couple bucks just to loosen the bolts for you.

Worst thing that will happen is the studs will snap, but that's really unlikely because the rust is almost certainly just surface-level. An impact gun should take those right off without snapping the studs.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:10 AM   #12
cinnaman
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When I had to replace all the bolts in my exhaust heat shield i just ground them down. Once there was nearly nothing left on the one side I just drilled the rest with an air drill. they'll pop right out after that.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:31 AM   #13
Javier668
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Force and new bolts if broke?
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javier668 View Post
Force and new bolts if broke?
+1. Try blaster and or heat. If they still won't budge break them they are no good to you anyway.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
aerokroil.

if you haven't heard of it. look it up. thank me later.
OR just cut them off. you ought to replace them anyway
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:44 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 609blk15wrx View Post
Or...reciprocating saw and new bolts! For when you get really frustrated!
probably your best option ^^^

that is assuming that hitting your wrench with a hammer doesn't work
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:42 AM   #17
tomferd
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Since everyone seems to have ways to remove the bolts, I'll list things you shouldn't do unless you want to make it harder for yourself:

-Don't use crescent wrenches or 12 point combination/socket wrenches. You need as much surface engagement as possible.

-Don't use a breaker bar. They apply massive amounts of torque, but if the threads won't budge, all you'll do is round the nut/bolt out.

-Don't heat cycle a nut/bolt less than 2 times, you're wasting your time if it's really stuck on there. 3+ cycles works well for me. I've gone all the way to 9 cycles before giving up.

-Don't use OEM replacement hardware. Spend the extra few bucks to get stainless steel hardware.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:11 AM   #18
vms150
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6 point socket, PB Blaster, and a mini-ductor. If that fails, cut it off with the death wheel.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:01 AM   #19
86Dreams
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I cant comment on flame. But unheated:

PB blaster is not the best choice for penetrating oil; If you can get a metal spray bottle mix 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. If you cant use that combo you could try liquid wrench after pb blaster as Ive seen some evidence that it has better penetration.

you can also try breaking the nut using
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSTCGU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000AX88Q&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1DQHM7DR8C7DW9ZD6KNMhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSTCGU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000AX88Q&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1DQHM7DR8C7DW9ZD6KNM

or

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440421025&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=irwin+nut+splitter&pebp=1440421028614&perid=1N8VZRHV5HXJ49NPGCG0http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440421025&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=irwin+nut+splitter&pebp=1440421028614&perid=1N8VZRHV5HXJ49NPGCG0

Remember that if its a cat back you dont need to remove the axel back(not sure if youre trying to). When I did mine my axel back HAD to be torched off but I was able to split the bolts at down pipe to cat back using the irwin pieces(also they dont need to be a precise fit just needs to slip on).

if you dont have an impact wrench get a heavy rubber mallet and whack the end of your wrench/socket consider using a piece of steel pipe as a cheater bar if you can fit it (or breaker bars are good too).

good luck
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:25 AM   #20
Bpat1218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appleking45 View Post
i think the bolts will break or threads will be destroyed
This is the best case scenario since it is super easy to tap out the remnants when the head or the nut is broken off. Muscle it off and grab some new bolts!
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:09 PM   #21
buck22
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Well, I don't see the point in all these theoretical scenarios. I think OP's best bet is going to be to head to his local exhaust shop and have them loosen the bolts. That is if OP hasn't already fixed it.
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Old Yesterday, 09:29 AM   #22
waynlewis
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I have to replace the exhaust/header/up-pipe gaskets, any tips on removing those nut+bolts? Heat-shields also? Thanks
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