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Old 01-06-2013, 11:42 PM   #1
action fab
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Default Phase one ej22 to Phase two swap ej25

Okay... Totaled my 2000 2.5RS. Bought a 97 Outback Sport with a blown motor. I have the engines swapped and of course have run into the fact that nothing plugs in.

I already have the dashes out of both cars. Can I not just swap the harnesses and computers from the 2.5rs into the Outback Sport?

My other option is taking the intake off the old 2.2 and splicing injectors, IAC, MAF, ext. I want this to be right since it will be my DD when done. I was thinking about swapping the dashes over and everything since both cars have the same options.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:36 AM   #2
bugeye-brawler
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This is a big job man... You have one of two options you can either use the whole harness from the 2.5L which means laying out the new, pulling up the carpets and dash. Or you can just splice in the clips that you need. You will need to make sure that the clips you are replacing have the same number of pins for both models. going for a 2.2 to 2.5 there should not be a problem it should be easier just to splice the clips and swapping the ECU's. laying a whole new harness is a pain in the ass and if the clips are off on a few things in the engine there will probably be some differences in the rest of the car.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:23 AM   #3
Storm
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You may be better off finding a decent EJ25D and going that route. Someone is bound to buy your good EJ251 or trade for the EJ25D. At that point, it's a simple engine harness swap and plug/play.

Good luck with whatever route you take!
Jay
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:03 PM   #4
action fab
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I'm just going to swap the harnesses. I am plenty competent. I just want the swap to be right. Even if it's more work.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #5
Storm
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That'll work too. Good luck with it!

Jay
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:15 PM   #6
cal_look_zero
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Why don't you just swap the 2.5 block in under the 2.2 heads/intake/harness, and make more power than the 2.5 would on it's own? Helluva lot easier and much better yield of power.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:26 PM   #7
no694terry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal_look_zero View Post
Why don't you just swap the 2.5 block in under the 2.2 heads/intake/harness, and make more power than the 2.5 would on it's own? Helluva lot easier and much better yield of power.
my brother did this. its a little more involved not much, little things like drilling a oil port hole in head gasket and having to run high octane but he says it pulls and it does
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:51 PM   #8
cal_look_zero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no694terry View Post
my brother did this. its a little more involved not much, little things like drilling a oil port hole in head gasket and having to run high octane but he says it pulls and it does
Cometic makes a custom head gasket to accommodate the 2.2 heads and 2.5 block.

It's the best way to get power without having to kludge with harnesses and all that.

I based off a build where the guy was putting down 180 crank hp.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:32 PM   #9
action fab
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Because the 2.2 is getting rebuilt to go back into the old RS chassis after I re-tube the front frame rails and turn it into a rally/auto-X car. That's another reason I want to keep the harnesses uncut. I am putting both cars back together.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:44 PM   #10
action fab
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I also already have a dual port Borla header and exhaust that I don't want to give up. That with the underdrive pully, cold air, PCM tune and authentic Trunk Monkey stickers... I'm already putting down decent power without needing premium.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:29 AM   #11
action fab
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Okay, I'm just going to update this with a warning for anyone looking to do this swap...

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!

The differences between the Phase two and Phase one cars are ridiculous! I have had to swap every damn thing on the car, steering column (which required me to machine a new collar for the end of the shaft), chassis harness (which required removing both front fenders), break/clutch peddle assembly, ABS system, SRS system, door harnesses, dash boards, even the damn wiper motor had to be swapped out. Literally you have to strip both cars to a shell and then put it back together again.

I'm still in the middle of putting things back together. This has turned into a nightmare of a job though. Roughly so far I'd say I'm about forty hours into it, with about ten to twenty hours to go. I'm a pretty quick tech so that's saying something... I'll also add that the time spent does include tearing down the donor car, as well as swapping front and rear suspensions including the rear diff because of course the ratios were different and the suspension from my coupe had about 200k less miles.

So what I'm saying here is, I caused myself way more work than was needed. In hindsight I'd have either found a phase one motor, built a franken-motor, or spliced the harness connectors. But I'm already this far into it. So I'll just keep pluggin' away till it's done. Ugh....
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:53 AM   #12
Storm
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Well, let me be the first one to tell ya, no shiyaat sherlock!!! We tried to delicately give you options that would have a snowballs chance of being completed without giving yourself an aneurism.....

EJ25D would have been a TON easier..... but now you know for yourself.

Good luck,
Jay
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:13 AM   #13
action fab
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Okay. Another update to this. Started the car tonight. Primed the fuel system and it fired up on the first crank. I will say though. The easiest way to make this swap, would be to tear your car down to a bare shell leaving only the doors, bumpers, and passenger fender on the car. You will have to remove everything else in order to make this swap.

Also, I'll note that the transmission tunnels are different. There are two plates that the dash and center console mount to that are spot welded in. Those will have to be drilled/cut out, and swapped over from the phase 2 car and welded into the phase one car after the phase one mounts are drilled/cut out.

Also I mentioned this is an earlier post. The columns are not the same. The hole in the firewall on the phase one car is smaller than that of the phase 2 car. The bushing/isolater/grommet used in the phase two car is much bigger though, meaning the column is of a smaller diameter. There are two ways to fix this. One cut the hole out bigger in the fire wall to accept the phase 2 bushing. Or do what I did... I cut a 1" long piece of 1.75x.120 DOM tube. This tube has a 1.5" ID and fit the column like a glove. I then made a little stopper for the top side of that 1.75" tube so the column didn't push though the busing. I beveled the edges to make it slide together easier and then tack welded it all to the base of the column.

The phase 1 front doorcards will obviously not work with the phase 2 dash.

Door harnesses have to be swapped too, along with the door sensors. I am swapping over from a coupe to a wagon, so of course I have a big mess on my hands here and get to make my own harnesses for the rear doors and hatch. :homer:

ABS pump will require you to swap over the break lines from the donor car too, because they are inverted, and are to short to be re-routed. (lines on the side of one end up on the top of the other... Vise-versa)

The wiper motor will have to have the pins pulled from the plug and then the plug off the phase two be swapped on.

Fuel tanks are different. As well as the EVAP system. rear sub frame must come out to even pull the tank/evap harness. You can do what I did since my Phase 2 tank was beat from rallying without proper skids. I used the phase one tank and EVAP system. I had to lengthen the harness on the purge valve to make the connection since the Phase 1 car has it mounted in front of the tank, and not behind. And there is a sensor on top of the tank of the phase 2 car that isn't there on the phase 1 tank. I'm not positive what it is even for to be honest. I'll update this if there are any warning lights of codes thrown from leaving this unplugged. I believe it is another part of the EVAP system but like I said I'm not positive.

I went ahead and swapped over the rear sub frame, with posi diff, disk breaks and 18mm sway bar too. If your ratios are the same in the transaxle and rear diff you could get away with using your stocker... But I had them out anyway so I made the swap.

I still have a lot to put back together before it can be driven. I'm also waiting on my exhaust manifold gaskets and new timing belt before I get it going. But Slowly It's coming together... very slowly.
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:44 AM   #14
Fred
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I swapped an EJ25D into my 98 Impreza wagon. Unplugged the 2.2, unbolted things, pulled it out, swapped the clutch and flywheel to the 2.5, bolted the 2.5 in, plugged everything in. No swapping any wires, everything just plugged right in. Ran on the 2.2 ECM, but I got the 2.5 ECM with the engine, so I swapped to that after a few days.

The only other thing I had to do was switch to the dual-port header, and I used a borla.

Took me a total of about 5 hours on two consecutive days.
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