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Old 01-08-2013, 07:29 PM   #1
geedar
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6-sp. vf39

Default Desperately need some advise

My drive shaft stabilizer mounting hole is blown out on my '03 sedan. It seems that the original welded nut got ripped out then someone rigged it with a bigger nut (no welding). Unfortunately I am now stuck dealing with it. there is maybe 1 inch between the ripped layer of steel and the similar-shaped layer that is the middle hump in the floor of the car. I don't think I want to cut access to it from inside the car because it is close to where the passenger seat rail bolts to the body (don't want to weaken the seat). Any suggestions? Would it be really hard to weld in a nut on this thin sheet and make it line up? Thanks


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Old 01-08-2013, 07:52 PM   #2
darksc00by
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I don't know what to tell you. I have never seen that happen before on our cars. I would probably just find a good automotive welder and ask their opinion on what to do.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:06 PM   #3
Mr. Wagon
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Remove the nut from the bolt that pulled out. Get a large thick fender washer and weld the nut to the washer. At this point you'll have what could be referred to as a weldnut. Remove the paint around the hole in the body in a circle a quarter inch bigger than a diameter of the weld nut.(If the washer you use is plated grind back the plating anywhere youll be welding it) Take your newly created weldnut and reinstall it on the driveshaft bracke washer down so it looks like a top hat. Bolt up the opposite side of the bracket and use a floor jack to press the weldnut side up to the sheet metal. Tack it up with a at least three good strong tacks with the welder set for 16 gauge. Remove the jack and unbolt the bracket being careful not to break the tacks. Then fully weld in the weldnut and when cool hit it with at least some primer.

UNDERSTAND: Burning paint and metal fumes are not just smelly but harmful too. Locate the area you'll be welding from the interior first. Make sure the area is safe to weld, no fire hazards, before starting work.

Last edited by Mr. Wagon; 01-08-2013 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:12 PM   #4
geedar
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^ That sounds like a great plan. Thanks a million for your time. I have no welding experience so I doubt I should try this as my first attempt. I'll look around for a mobile welder because the car is not drivable (obviously) and I'll try to avoid a tow. I was kind of hoping there may be a hardware solution not requiring welding but that is likely wishful thinking. I asked my local fastener shop about expanding hardware similar to those drywall nuts/anchors like this:

They said said they have something similar in a high grade but the 1 inch of clearance between the metal sheets leaves less than enough room to insert it. Looks like it's time to just hire a welder. I'll be sure and give them these instructions in case they didn't think of doing it this way.
Thanks a lot
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:22 AM   #5
Mr. Wagon
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After looking at most every cold connection Mcmaster has the only fastener I see with a slim chance of working with your clearance issue is part number 94255A100

Mcmaster.com
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:35 AM   #6
Mr. Wagon
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Another idea is a tab nut. Strip of metal the width of the hole left by the nut and maybe an inch and a half long. Close to one end a hole is drilled and a nut welded to it. This time the assembly looks more like a baseball hat. Slip the tab nut in the hole and once you start the bolt in the nut(like a surgeon) the tab spins around, interferes with something inside the chassis and allows you to tighten it all down. The down side is starting the nut and it may be a pain if you ever need to remove it.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:40 AM   #7
Mr. Wagon
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:06 AM   #8
geedar
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Again, Mr. Wagon, your help is much appreciated! I didn't actually see the fastener they had at the shop I went to but they described it as being like the first part you posted. I was also thinking about the possibility of additionally getting a blob of JB Weld in there to add mass to the "anchor" and make it form fit to the surface to distribute some pressure. Just am idea. I guess I should probably first seek affordable professional help before resorting to any type of rigging. Man, this is really a bummer for me right now. I just realized today that this forum topic for fabrication exists. I'm excited to see that people are actively helping each other out here.

I didn't know about the tab nuts. Where did you find that?

Last edited by geedar; 01-09-2013 at 02:30 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:13 AM   #9
geedar
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Oh never mind. Found it
http://www.on-b.com/
So they do have one with the threads in the middle.
Do you see an advantage of using the baseball cap looking one instead?
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:02 AM   #10
Mr. Wagon
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One with a centered nut will span the entire hole with less chance it will fall or pull through the hole.

Last edited by Mr. Wagon; 01-09-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:45 AM   #11
wantsti
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Get a one piece drive shaft.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #12
geedar
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Thanks for everybody's help. I called every welder in my area and only found one mobile welder who is willing to come to my house (says he might make it tomorrow). I then found 2 bad reviews for him and 0 good. I think my new plan is to first order a centered T-nut (thanks Mr. Wagon) and see how substantial I can make it with that. If that fails, I can try this welder guy. If he fails and ruins it, I can always resort to a one-piece (thanks wantsti).
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:58 PM   #13
geedar
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I found that Ohio Nut and Bolt Company only sells in high volume but Fastenal is their distributor. I have the T-nut (aka weld nut) coming in at my local Fastenal tomorrow.
Fastenal part number 38132
which is part number NDZ 3324 from the manufacturer: http://www.on-b.com/nuts/ndz.aspx
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:10 PM   #14
PARANOID56
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you will still need to weld. your best bet is said above. take a washer, weld the nut to it and weld the washer to the car.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #15
geedar
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^ Yes, I'm starting to accept that now. I was trying my damndest to avoid it but it seems necessary now. I found a 4x4 guy at an exhaust/smog shop who said he'd weld it for $90. He's about 1.5 miles away from me. I think I'll just use the hardware to hold it together long enough to limp over to his shop. I have to finish up a few other things I'm working on then it should be drivable in about 2 weeks. I'll try to remember to report back with the results for future reference for anyone else who is unfortunate enough to have to deal with this. Thanks all
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:16 PM   #16
PARANOID56
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perfect, i was going to say check out some 4x4 shops. they will have a lift and a welder. i know if i was doing it i could have it welded in less then 20 min. i will say have the carpet removed in the location above that hole. just so he knows he doesnt have to worry about the heat transfer catching crap on fire.
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