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Old 01-13-2013, 01:00 PM   #1
Duvanator
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Member#: 217257
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Niagara Falls, Canada
Vehicle:
2008 2.5i hatch
Satin White Wrap

Default DIY rallisport uel installation

Hi Everyone,

I am aware how many people with 2.5i ‘s look into doing this mod so I figured I would help the community out and do a write-up with as much helpful information as possible.


**disclaimer***

I am in no way responsible or accountable for your actions. this is a simple documentation of my own install on my car. there are risks when working on a vehicle that you should understand before starting. I am not affiliated in away way with rallisport racing, I am just a happy customer who is giving back to the community by helping out.


About the product:

The header is from http://rallisportracing.com (copied right from the product page)

• 304 stainless steel piping
• 1 5/8" primaries, 1 3/4" secondaries, 2.25" final
• 304 ss flanges
• 304 ss o2 sensor bungs
• 409 high flow ceramic substrate cat
• Magnaflow part #54975
• Fully TIG welded
• Direct fit replacement of the 06+ 2.5i factory header
• Stainless steel bolts and nuts included (to attach header to factory cat pipe)

There are three finish’s currently offered with the header

• Natural finish, just the exposed stainless steel
• Black Satin, ceramic coating. This coating can withstand temperatures up to 2000F and is a good choice if planning on adding a turbo or for extreme/race applications.
• Cerma Krome, ceramic coating. This coating protects up to 1300F but has higher heat retention properties than the Black Satin, so it's obviously the better choice if trying to avoid a cel.


The reason behind these coatings is to protect your header from corrosion and to retain heat in the cat. Stainless steel is quite poor at heat retention which can cause the high flow cat to run outside of the computers optimum range therefore throwing a check engine light (cel).


I opted for the Cerma Krome coating as you will see how shinny the headers look.


Tools required:

A set of ramps/ floor jack +stands/ lift
Philips screw driver
8mm wrench for the battery
10mm socket for the under tray
14mm socket for the header connections
8” socket extension
22mm wrench for the o2 sensor
new exhaust gaskets
anti-seize for the installation of the o2 sensors







The installation:

1. Remove the positive terminal from the battery and ensure it is not going to accidently come back in contact with the battery post.

2. Remove the air intake. There are Two (2) plastic push pins that can be removed with a Philips (star) screwdriver. Once removed just pull the intake up and towards the front of the car. It will just pull away.





3. Now you can see the o2 sensors and the wires. You need to unplug the two (2) wires as well as the two (2) clips holding the wire in place mid way down





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Last edited by Duvanator; 01-13-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:00 PM   #2
Duvanator
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4. Now lift up the car remove the under tray. There are two (2) plastic push clips located inside the wheel wells just in front of each tire.



There are then three (3) 10mm bolts holding the tray on from the bottom. Two (2) are located towards the front, and one (1) towards the back. (forgot to take a picture here but it is quite obvious, and easy enough.

5. With the tray removed you are now looking at the factory header.


There are nine (9) bolts in total holding it on. Three (3) on each side holding it to the block, and three (3) bolting it up to the mid-pipe.

You want to spray all these connections with a liquid wrench or equivalent, as well as a wire brush to break away any loose rust. This will prevent the nut from seizing on the threads.





Once sprayed/brushed proceed to remove all nine (9) connections with the 14mm socket and extension.

6. with the help of a friend to hold it in place from just dropping, you will need to work the connection to the mid-pipe to pull it out from the studs.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:00 PM   #3
Duvanator
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7. The header is now off of the car


Now you want to move over the o2 sensors from the old to the new. Make sure to place them in the same respective spots as the sensors are different. Apply some anti-seize to the threads before installing and be careful not to get any on the sensor itself.





**Note: The o2 sensors are seemingly tightened by the Subaru gorilla and might not come out without a fight. My front sensor came out with no issue but the rear would not budge. I used an oxygen acetylene torch to heat up around the sensor and was then able to easily remove it. **


8. Its now time to bolt it back to the car. Place the new gaskets on the studs prior to fitting the header. With the help of a friend raise it up into place. Secure it with one (1) nut on each side to hold it in place. Then continue with the rest. The header bolts/nuts should be torqued to approximately 30nm (265 in-lbs)

With the three (3) new bolts/nuts provided attach the header to the mid-pipe. Making sure to place the new gasket in between.





9. I would recommend placing the o2 sensor wires on top of the header (not dangling down) to make it easier to reach them from above to reconnect them.

10. Reinstall the under-tray. It is easiest to line up and insert the plastic clips in the wheel wells first, then the bolts underneath.

11. Lower the car down and re-plug the o2 wires

12. Reinstall the air-intake

13. Reconnect the battery

14. That’s it, you’re all done. Shouldn’t take more than an hour or two at a leisurely pace in the company of a friend or two

If there is anything unclear don’t hesitate to ask. And if you have any questions about the company or product Mike at rallisport is by far the most caring respectful business owner you will come across. His customer service is beyond exceptional.

Here is the very first start. It is worth noting that it is -14c outside so it is indeed a very cold start.
I have an obx cat-back installed as well.
All the details can be seen in my full log here :
http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/f...2008-2-5i.html

or shorter log here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2477353


Video:



Make sure to check back for more videos/soundclips

Thanks for looking

Eric

Last edited by Duvanator; 04-10-2013 at 11:25 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:29 PM   #4
blk6s
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Wow, great write up, I'll be adding a link to this on my website

And thank you for the kind words
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:13 PM   #5
Duvanator
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I felt it was the least I could do with how helpful you were.

Thank you for everything!

Last edited by Duvanator; 01-13-2013 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:18 PM   #6
Duvanator
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:42 PM   #7
MarcoPolo360
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Great writeup!
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:46 AM   #8
2point5 09i
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Excellent write up! keep those videos coming sounds awesome. cant wait to get mine.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:42 PM   #9
Duvanator
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Thanks guys!

I would just like to add that at -17c this morning no issues. so hopefully my choice of the Cerma Krome has paid off. If it's going to be cold temperatures that upsets the ecu then I would expect it to happen in the next week or two as it is friggen cold here now lol
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:05 PM   #10
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Great write up you should get Mike to add this to the site sounds excellent!

Last edited by GEE-OTTO; 01-14-2013 at 04:08 PM. Reason: shorten
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk6s View Post
Wow, great write up, I'll be adding a link to this on my website

And thank you for the kind words
Oh wait......... you already noticed lol
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:14 AM   #12
Duvanator
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lol Yup, he was the first person to notice!


Here's some in car video. enjoy

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Old 01-16-2013, 10:26 AM   #13
2point5 09i
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Whats the diameter of the obx cat back you have?
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:45 AM   #14
Duvanator
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It is 2.5" which is one of the main factors I chose it over things like the tsudo n1 which is 3"
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
It is 2.5" which is one of the main factors I chose it over things like the tsudo n1 which is 3"
Doesnt sound like too much drone from the vid how is it at say 65-70 mph ?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:24 PM   #16
Duvanator
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Under load/acceleration it is deffinately loud
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:28 PM   #17
Duvanator
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Sorry using iPhone app and hit send accidentally.


So it has volume but with the resonator there is almost no drone at constant speed/ load. Also that video I clipped together with the sections that had the most "rumble"and using the infamous gopro mic lol

I intend to make a few more videos. Maybe a full WOT acceleration onto highway. And now maybe just cruising to show that this really has no drone
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:46 PM   #18
KartRacer3
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Awesome write up and videos! Any impressions after driving with it for a while now? For example any low end torque improvements/losses? Also any CEL's occur so far?
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:26 PM   #19
Duvanator
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Its has been way to cold here to notice any differences since the car feels entirely different in these extreme temps. Just this morning the car temperature read -25c (-13f). The good news is that at these temperatures there is no cel. So *fingers crossed* the ceramic coating holds all that heat in and keeps the computer happy.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:56 PM   #20
Ralph47
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Awesome write up! Thanks, I will be using this for sure and hopefully this spring

The UEL will be my first exhaust mod on my 2.5i so I hope I get the rumble but that its not TO loud. I park right under my downstairs neighbors windows.... lol

Just out of curiosity, how many miles were on it and how many winters did you drive it before the install? My only concern about doing this myself is if I break a bolt or stud...
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:24 PM   #21
Duvanator
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Thanks for the compliment! trying my best to help out

The car is a 2008 and has 102,000 km on it (~64,000 miles). Honestly though if you do as i recommend and use a liquid wrench type spray and wire brush then the chances of breaking a stud is reduced. since you are breaking up the corrosion and then removing it from the threads. therefore preventing the bolt from binding/seizing.

Side note: this past summer I had noticed that for whatever reason (previous owner, or shop) I was missing a stud on one side. So they are replaceable as I had to get a new one lol
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:11 PM   #22
Ralph47
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lol awesome, thanks for the info.

I have a LOT of PB blaster in my garage but it does not give me the patience to wait for it to work :P

Already have this bookmarked for later, I have a feeling that I may get me a set with my taxes even tho I shouldnt
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:53 AM   #23
Duvanator
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When the snow falls = some donuts, some drifting, and even driving into a ditch because I was too afraid I was going to hit my friend holding the camera haha, but awd and snow tires got me out instantly.

And of course that sexy uel exhaust note

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Old 01-20-2013, 07:31 AM   #24
2point5 09i
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Nice driving! cant get enough of that exhaust note. Its torture since im still waiting lol... Keep it up!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:38 PM   #25
Duvanator
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New video/sound clips!

Here is a vid with some stationary revs across the whole range up to about 6000rpm (iPhone mic)




And here is some driving, 2 clips compiled into 1. (GoPro mic)
Clip 1 is a 2nd gear pull up a hill
Clip 2 is a 2nd to 3rd WOT (wide open throttle) pull to merge onto highway. This clip also is left running to show how after the pull up to 70mph/110kph that there is no drone to this setup, more wind/ winter tire noise than anything.


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