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Old 01-31-2013, 10:27 AM   #26
Charlie-III
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Nice write-up.

Note: I would suggest using the copper Never-Seize for the studs and exhaust hardware. It tends to work better with the heat than the silver/gray Never-Seize.
I also coat the exposed threads when done to make life easier down the road.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:15 AM   #27
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Thanks, and thank you for the tip.



As a side note to my latest video: I did notice a much smoother power delivery/ acceleration across the whole rpm range while doing my several highway pulls. The butt dyno noticed a difference :P
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:53 PM   #28
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First off, thanks a ton for the write-up as the instructions are quite clear/simple. Second, thanks AGAIN for making/posting vids of how it sounds (and how great your car sounds at that!).

Question: are you running a stock cat or do you have something aftermarket? I'm semi-on the fence about getting these headers and wondering if I should either stick with a stock cat, get a high-flow cat, or do a test-pipe ().
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:42 PM   #29
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Thanks! My exhaust is composed of the uel header to the stock mid pipe which houses the second cat then bolted up to the OBX catback.
So the header has the highflier cat, and the secondary stock cat remains in the system... For now lol
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distant.Calling View Post
First off, thanks a ton for the write-up as the instructions are quite clear/simple. Second, thanks AGAIN for making/posting vids of how it sounds (and how great your car sounds at that!).

Question: are you running a stock cat or do you have something aftermarket? I'm semi-on the fence about getting these headers and wondering if I should either stick with a stock cat, get a high-flow cat, or do a test-pipe ().
Pull the trigger on the headers u wont regret it
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
Thanks! My exhaust is composed of the uel header to the stock mid pipe which houses the second cat then bolted up to the OBX catback.
So the header has the highflier cat, and the secondary stock cat remains in the system... For now lol
Awesome. Considering the quality and fit, the price offered for the headers seems like a steal! Thanks for answering, looking forward to seeing more about your car in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post
Pull the trigger on the headers u wont regret it
As much as I would love to buy them, kind of roughing it with my car as is since I've been doing a lot of routine maintenance PLUS I know sooner or later the HG is going to have to be replaced and I was quoted ~$2k for the job. So there's that. Plus being in school with no job also presents issues in terms of buying stuff for the car.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:41 PM   #32
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Here's out on a lake
The once peace and quite broken with the rumble from a boxer

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Old 02-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #33
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Man I hope the 12+ imprezas will sound this good with the rallisport uel hedder. Mike is working on ours next...great thread!!!
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:29 PM   #34
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I hope mine comes soon! I just received my Perrin axle back and I can't wait to add the headers!
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
When the snow falls = some donuts, some drifting, and even driving into a ditch because I was too afraid I was going to hit my friend holding the camera haha, but awd and snow tires got me out instantly.

And of course that sexy uel exhaust note

Subaru's - Winter Fun - YouTube
hey man i love the videos! its alot better than most of the ones i have found on youtube. it really gives me a better ide of what the headers will sound like. what is your exhaust set up as far as a catback?
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:21 PM   #36
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Thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesonp16 View Post
hey man i love the videos! its alot better than most of the ones i have found on youtube. it really gives me a better ide of what the headers will sound like. what is your exhaust set up as far as a catback?

Well then you'll enjoy this one too


I have the headers paired with an OBX cat-back
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
7. The header is now off of the car


Now you want to move over the o2 sensors from the old to the new. Make sure to place them in the same respective spots as the sensors are different. Apply some anti-seize to the threads before installing and be careful not to get any on the sensor itself.





**Note: The o2 sensors are seemingly tightened by the Subaru gorilla and might not come out without a fight. My front sensor came out with no issue but the rear would not budge. I used an oxygen acetylene torch to heat up around the sensor and was then able to easily remove it. **


8. Its now time to bolt it back to the car. Place the new gaskets on the studs prior to fitting the header. With the help of a friend raise it up into place. Secure it with one (1) nut on each side to hold it in place. Then continue with the rest. The header bolts/nuts should be torqued to approximately 30nm (265 in-lbs)

With the three (3) new bolts/nuts provided attach the header to the mid-pipe. Making sure to place the new gasket in between.





9. I would recommend placing the o2 sensor wires on top of the header (no dangling down) to make it easier to reach them from above to reconnect them.

10. Reinstall the under-tray. It is easiest to line up and insert the plastic clips in the wheel wells first, then the bolts underneath.

11. Lower the car down and re-plug the o2 wires

12. Reinstall the air-intake

13. Reconnect the battery

14. Thatís it, youíre all done. Shouldnít take more than an hour or two at a leisurely pace in the company of a friend or two

If there is anything unclear donít hesitate to ask. And if you have any questions about the company or product Mike at rallisport is by far the most caring respectful business owner you will come across. His customer service is beyond exceptional.

Here is the very first start. It is worth noting that it is -14c outside so it is indeed a very cold start.
I have an obx cat-back installed as well. All the details can be seen in my log here : http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/f...2008-2-5i.html


Video:


UEL 08 Impreza - YouTube

Make sure to check back for more videos/soundclips

Thanks for looking

Eric
Is that also the Eibach front sway bar? do you have the kit that comes with both? fix any understeer problems? any complaints? how long have you had it?
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09subi2.5i View Post
Is that also the Eibach front sway bar? do you have the kit that comes with both? fix any understeer problems? any complaints? how long have you had it?
Keen eye lol
Yes that's an eibach 25mm hollow front bar. I did not get the kit as I had already had a 22mm whiteline solid bar in the rear. I never auto-x'd the car before the sways but now the car is so planted. Almost zero body roll at all. It's grips and grips up to the limit. But once you're at the limit it will still plow/under steer.

So I went from stock (front 19mm, rear nothing) had this for over year.
To front 19mm, rear 22mm. Which transformed the car from night to day. Highly recommend this to ALL 2.5i owners. Had the rear bar on its own for almost a year.
Then I upgraded to front 25mm, rear 22mm. And again this made a big difference. Not quite as drastic as the rear bar. But still very noticeable, even in regular street driving/cornering. And I've had this set up for maybe 6 months. And I've auto-x'd on it several times so I've actually taken the car to the limit. And the limiting factor now is the tires. The sidewalls give the most when cornering lol

The big sways with the soft springs has turned out to be a winning combo and I couldn't be happier! If you have more questions about any of it I'm glad to help
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:25 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
Keen eye lol
Yes that's an eibach 25mm hollow front bar. I did not get the kit as I had already had a 22mm whiteline solid bar in the rear. I never auto-x'd the car before the sways but now the car is so planted. Almost zero body roll at all. It's grips and grips up to the limit. But once you're at the limit it will still plow/under steer.

So I went from stock (front 19mm, rear nothing) had this for over year.
To front 19mm, rear 22mm. Which transformed the car from night to day. Highly recommend this to ALL 2.5i owners. Had the rear bar on its own for almost a year.
Then I upgraded to front 25mm, rear 22mm. And again this made a big difference. Not quite as drastic as the rear bar. But still very noticeable, even in regular street driving/cornering. And I've had this set up for maybe 6 months. And I've auto-x'd on it several times so I've actually taken the car to the limit. And the limiting factor now is the tires. The sidewalls give the most when cornering lol

The big sways with the soft springs has turned out to be a winning combo and I couldn't be happier! If you have more questions about any of it I'm glad to help
You are full of useful info for me, what are the next winning lotto numbers?

I think I will get me a 22mm rear bar and fix a LOT of my body roll... yet another thing to add to the list

So I just checked out Whiteline's site and dont see a solid (Im reading that as non adjustable btw) rear sway bar. Am I wrong in assuming its not adjustable??
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:50 PM   #40
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You are full of useful info for me, what are the next winning lotto numbers?

I think I will get me a 22mm rear bar and fix a LOT of my body roll... yet another thing to add to the list

So I just checked out Whiteline's site and dont see a solid (Im reading that as non adjustable btw) rear sway bar. Am I wrong in assuming its not adjustable??
Haha. The winning lotto number is.... 1

This is exactly what I have

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...number=BSR51XZ

Most bars are solid unless otherwise stated. And yes it is adjustable, but not with the endlinks that the kit comes with. It is a rigid endlink that I was only able to fit in the middle set of holes. Not a big deal for me.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:34 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post
Haha. The winning lotto number is.... 1

This is exactly what I have

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...number=BSR51XZ

Most bars are solid unless otherwise stated. And yes it is adjustable, but not with the endlinks that the kit comes with. It is a rigid endlink that I was only able to fit in the middle set of holes. Not a big deal for me.
Thanks again for the info
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:59 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post

Keen eye lol
Yes that's an eibach 25mm hollow front bar. I did not get the kit as I had already had a 22mm whiteline solid bar in the rear. I never auto-x'd the car before the sways but now the car is so planted. Almost zero body roll at all. It's grips and grips up to the limit. But once you're at the limit it will still plow/under steer.

So I went from stock (front 19mm, rear nothing) had this for over year.
To front 19mm, rear 22mm. Which transformed the car from night to day. Highly recommend this to ALL 2.5i owners. Had the rear bar on its own for almost a year.
Then I upgraded to front 25mm, rear 22mm. And again this made a big difference. Not quite as drastic as the rear bar. But still very noticeable, even in regular street driving/cornering. And I've had this set up for maybe 6 months. And I've auto-x'd on it several times so I've actually taken the car to the limit. And the limiting factor now is the tires. The sidewalls give the most when cornering lol

The big sways with the soft springs has turned out to be a winning combo and I couldn't be happier! If you have more questions about any of it I'm glad to help
Thank you very much. What made you upgrade the front as well? Did it help with the under steer problem?
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:36 PM   #43
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Thank you very much. What made you upgrade the front as well? Did it help with the under steer problem?

I wanted to upgrade the front as there was still body roll and I wanted to eliminate it. The understeer is difficult to explain, yes it helped a lot, but the design of the car and drivetrain still promotes the understeer. So by stiffening everything up like I have, the understeer doesn't happen until your going way to fast into a turn. I discovered and proved this multiple times during auto-x racing lol.

With the large front a rear bar the tires remain in full contact with the ground. Letting you use all the grip poissible. Since body roll would pick up the tire and reduce the contact area. So the limiting factor is the tires, and the sidewall stiffness.

With this current set up I have LESS body roll than a stock 2011 sti sedan (raced in the auto-x)
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:23 PM   #44
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I noticed that in one of your posts that you said you are running 2 cats ( the stock and the high flow). I have an 07 2.5 and the stock cats are both in header pipe. so if i do the header swap do you think ill run into CEL issues?

also is it worth the extra money to get the coated headers? is it really worth the $250 extra.

thanks for your help again
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:17 PM   #45
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Your cats are located in the same locations as my own. It's the same exhaust layout. Only the front cat is IN the header. The second cat is immediately after the header. Only the front cat is monitored with o2 sensors (as seen in the DIY pics).

I opted for the coating as I didn't not want any chance of a cel. I've already experienced temperatures in the -20's and -30's and no issues. So if lack of heat was going to be the cause for the cel then the coating has definitely helped.
But I haven't compared with and without coatings obviously so I can't recommend or say for sure. But the coating does work, it protects the product and keeps the heat in the cat. The main reason the cel comes on is like I said in the first post, the high flow cat doesn't run hot enough to run within factory tolerances.
So it's up to you if you feel you can justify the expense or if you need the coating. You are already spending this much for them, so in the long run what's a little more.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:43 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvanator View Post

I wanted to upgrade the front as there was still body roll and I wanted to eliminate it. The understeer is difficult to explain, yes it helped a lot, but the design of the car and drivetrain still promotes the understeer. So by stiffening everything up like I have, the understeer doesn't happen until your going way to fast into a turn. I discovered and proved this multiple times during auto-x racing lol.

With the large front a rear bar the tires remain in full contact with the ground. Letting you use all the grip poissible. Since body roll would pick up the tire and reduce the contact area. So the limiting factor is the tires, and the sidewall stiffness.

With this current set up I have LESS body roll than a stock 2011 sti sedan (raced in the auto-x)
I'm sold haha gonna buy the set now.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:28 PM   #47
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I'm curious if there is any other sound clip, or form of video anyone would like to see? I can easily do more, just let me know what you want to see/hear
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:20 PM   #48
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Please allow me to be another to thank you for the write up! Oh my tax return...
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:00 AM   #49
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You're welcome!

and since no one has any video requests....

I'll just leave this here:
( real world driving you know...)

take special note of the exhaust on the rc car... hahaha
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:31 PM   #50
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Nice write up Eric, thought it was more difficult then that, my only issue would be getting it to pass smog out here in CA. Might be worth looking into after my first smog. Thanks again. Another thing to add to the list
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