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Old 01-13-2013, 07:49 PM   #1
bvukich
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Default 2006 WRX suddenly pig rich no power misfires

2006 WRX. Only mods are a catback, K&N panel filter, snorkus delete, ACT Streetlight flywheel (~14lbs). ECU is untouched, no tune.

I've had codes P0410 P2442 P2440 for a couple months, but car was running fine, and I plan on just blocking off the Secondary Air system anyhow. Just mentioning this to give as much information as possible.

Last night I was driving to a friends house and only made it a mile or two before power was cutting out, misfires, running rough, had to keep over about 4k to keep moving. So I turned around, and went back home.

Current symptoms:
Running pig rich, billowing white smoke. Rough-ish idle while cold, once it warms up it will barely idle. If you rev it a little and suddenly release, it will stall. Off idle and under load car has no power, bogs really bad, misfires like a machine gun. Nearly constant misfire CELs on all cyl, P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304. O2 vlotage (from obd2) about .7. AFR (from obd2) at idle and while reving stays at about 10.2.

What I've tried so far:
1 bottle of fuel injector cleaner in 3/4 tank. Currently at about 1/4 tank (just from approx 20 mins of idling in my garage burned 1/2 tank)
Cleaned crank sensor, and subsequently replaced it just in case.
Checked timing belt (poorly), just on drivers side, there are no marks on the belt so I cant really tell if it slipped a tooth. The belt is in great condition though. It's just really cold in my garage, I'm not going to rip everything apart if I don't have to...
Cleaned the MAF and IAT. Also tried unplugging it.
Unplugged the front O2 sensor and reset ECU.
Cleaned the battery & manifold grounds.
Checked all the vacuum and intake plumbing.

What I haven't checked:
Plugs & coil packs. Since it's suddenly affecting all cyl , I figured they're unlikely.
Cam timing. Haven't properly checked, just a visual of belt condition.
Fuel pressure regulator. Maybe pressure is too high?
Tried to check/clean PCV valve, but couldn't get the darn thing off the hoses. They're a bit stiff from the cold.

Any thoughts? I now believe the root symptom is the running extremely rich, which is causing the misfires and bogging at intermediate RPMs. I've been Googleing and searching the forums for the last day trying to find some clues, but I haven't seen anyone with quite my combination of symptoms.
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Last edited by bvukich; 01-13-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:05 PM   #2
bvukich
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Just did a quick "drive around the block", I'm seeing vacuum from about 19-23 inHg, and boost up to about 9-11lbs. (cold, second gear)

There's a small (what I'd consider normal) amount of oil in IC.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #3
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did you unplug the MAF and try driving?
I had an issues just like this and it was a clamp from my FMIC piping
I didnt throw any codes tho until I unplugged the MAF
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:22 PM   #4
bvukich
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I unplugged the MAF and started it up, but didn't actually drive.

I just now unplugged the front O2 again, and I'mm letting it sit for longer to make sure the short term maps are clear. Last time I only let it sit for like 15 seconds, maybe not long enough?

I'll try unplugging the MAF again after I test without the front O2.

I've had the TMIC on and off half a dozen times in the last two days, so I'm sure all those connections are good. I'll double check the rest though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:13 PM   #5
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battery reset let's see...
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:18 PM   #6
bvukich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvukich View Post
I just now unplugged the front O2 again, and I'mm letting it sit for longer to make sure the short term maps are clear. Last time I only let it sit for like 15 seconds, maybe not long enough?

I'll try unplugging the MAF again after I test without the front O2.
No luck.

Unplugged O2. Disconnected battery for 30 min. Test drive: same symptoms.

Reconnected O2, disconnected MAF. Test drive: same symptoms.

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Old 01-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #7
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Me thinks you have a leak somewhere after the MAf before the engine. Probably a hose, clamp, or coupler. Check your fuel trims and if they are skewed heavily one way or another we have something to go by. Also check the idle and cruise afr while you are at it
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:20 PM   #8
bvukich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Me thinks you have a leak somewhere after the MAf before the engine. Probably a hose, clamp, or coupler. Check your fuel trims and if they are skewed heavily one way or another we have something to go by. Also check the idle and cruise afr while you are at it
Will do, thank you sir.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:08 PM   #9
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- Turbo inlet going might have torn or popped off it tears on the underside typically so a visual inspection won't do much.
- Throttle body coupler got loose (IC to TB)
- Turbo to IC pipe popped off possibly Y-pipe issue

Easy enough to pull the IC off and check all the pipes/hoses. Should be able to get a hand underneath the inlet and feel it up for any rips/tears.

Have a boost leak tester? If not make one. (DIY can be found on here) By far the best way to check if there is any sort of leak.


x2 on the fuel trims, if you can get a learning view log pulled then do it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:07 AM   #10
bvukich
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Alright, so now I'm really confused....


So I put everything back together, reset the ECU, and I did a couple laps around my subdivision while logging (thought I was logging anyhow, apparently by default Torque Pro only logs GPS, Doh!), and the car was acting just like it was for the last two days. While cold it was rough, as it warmed up it got rougher and rougher. I'm almost out of gas since I've burnt 3/4 of a tank without leaving my driveway for the last two days. So I'm sitting in my driveway, debating if I should risk going to the gas station about a mile away. I decide to go for it.

By the time I get the two blocks to the exit of my subdivision, the car is running normally (well, mostly). The trip to the gas station is uneventful. I fill up. The trip back is equally uneventful. The car is almost running normally now, just as quickly as the problem arrived, it's nearly disappeared.

So I'm home at this point, and look at the data logs... only to realize there's nothing but GPS data in there. Reconfigured Torque Pro to give me some useful data, and decided to make a run to another gas station which has the inside open at this hour, so I can stock up on caffeine and nicotine. Trip was also uneventful.

Now there's only a slightly rough idle, and it bogs down over 1/2 throttle under load, but only some of the time.

Linked here is the log of the second run to the gas station.

First six minutes of the log is me fiddling with my phone while the car is idling. I also left it idling while I was in the gas station, and for a few minutes after I got home. (I guess GPS speed makes it pretty obvious when I was moving and not).
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:20 PM   #11
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Ya there is definitely an issue that is causing the ecu to pull as much fuel as it can.

Do another log and check fuel trims for the other bank. That would open another possibility: bad/stuck injector

Any CEL codes? With it running that rich try to limit the amount of run time so you do not wash the bores

You should also delete the air pump now to remove it as a potential cause. I know it only runs briefly during start up but it leaves the heads as a point where metered air might escape and trick the front O2 sensor.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:42 PM   #12
bvukich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Ya there is definitely an issue that is causing the ecu to pull as much fuel as it can.

Do another log and check fuel trims for the other bank. That would open another possibility: bad/stuck injector

Any CEL codes? With it running that rich try to limit the amount of run time so you do not wash the bores

You should also delete the air pump now to remove it as a potential cause. I know it only runs briefly during start up but it leaves the heads as a point where metered air might escape and trick the front O2 sensor.
I'll run another log tonight, any other PIDs anyone would like to see?

I'm getting CELs P0301/3/4 (I usually get P0302 as well), and then P0401 (for the air pump)

I'll order some air pump delete plates asap (Any recommended vendors? I'm not paying $80 for cosworth ones)

Thank you everyone for your assistance, every comment has been helpful in some way.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:36 PM   #13
bvukich
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Just realized that I wasn't getting P2440 & P2442 for the secondary air valves stuck open last night. There's obviously something else wrong, but could those valves stuck open explain why the car was previously getting much worse after it warmed up?
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:15 PM   #14
bvukich
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To test for boost leaks, should I go from just after the MAF to just before the TB?
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:27 PM   #15
aboothman
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Sounds about right.

PM Tigwerks on here...I know he has a bunch available and they are cheaper than most. CNC made and anodized...very nice pieces
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:08 AM   #16
bvukich
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So here's my theory (we'll see if my findings back it up):

Boost leak + Secondary air valves stuck open, with an aggravating factor of fouled plugs from running rich.

Since the valves are closed now, they're probably not rusted, just frozen condensation (it's been really cold here since Saturday, in the teens). Last night's drive around the subdivision must have gotten them warm enough to melt and close. AFR leaned out a bit and the plugs were able to burn clean again, resulting in the car running almost right again. I think the only problem right now is a mild boost leak. I can build some boost, but it just doesn't feel right, and after about 1/2-3/4 throttle it boggs down under high load, just about the same conditions I would expect peak boost at.

My (projected) next steps:
  • I'm going to go pull the IC so I can disconnect the plugs for the secondary air valves (so they stay closed). I'll eventually do an actual delete. (low on cash) Am I correct in thinking disconnecting the plugs will only result in CELs, not limp mode?
  • While I'm in there I'm going to feel for a crack/tear in the intake hose again. Maybe I'm just missing it. Although unless I'm mistaken, the leak would have to be after the turbo, otherwise it would be acting like a vacuum leak (i.e. running lean) and not a boost leak.
  • I'm going to build a boost leak setup. (probably tomorrow)
  • I'll probably pick up a set of plugs this weekend, the current ones are probably originals, and I'm sure well worn.

Thoughts?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:34 AM   #17
bvukich
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Doh... I'm dumb. Secondary air couldn't have been making my car run rich, it never touches metered air, it uses atmospheric air.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:42 AM   #18
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White smoke is usually coolant burning. Have you checked the oil or coolant to see if they mixed at all due to a possibly blown head gasket?
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:24 PM   #19
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Sounds like a solid plan to me
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