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Old 04-24-2013, 09:01 AM   #1
S2xtreme4u
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Member#: 354425
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Petersburgh, ny
Vehicle:
2004 Forester 2.5xt
Silver

Default Will my stage 2 clutch always rattle?

I got a stage two clutch kit put in.

Will it always rattle?

Also, is there a different way to shift with it? Starting in first from a stopped position it's hard to find that line of going/not stalling. Almost seems better to just drop the clutch and go. Not sure if I'm the only one who's experienced this with a stage 2 clutch?
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:29 AM   #2
alecb
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PSM

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What vehicle? What year? Fill out your profile.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:53 AM   #3
stikilla
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regardless of year and vehicle, an aftermarket clutch is going to shudder till it breaks in. put some miles on it and then worry about the shudder if it continues.

new clutches are grabby

also, research should have told you that a performance clutch is going to be much more raw than an OEM (purpose built for performance rather and DD and comfortability). The catch point is going to be smaller and many generally create a stiffer pedal feel when compared to an OEM clutch. So as far as the shifting thing goes, NO do not just drop the clutch. Learn to shift it the correct way.

Last edited by stikilla; 04-24-2013 at 10:28 AM. Reason: unabomber would be correct in his "stage" verbiage
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:57 AM   #4
jayman4312
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you should totally just dump the clutch and go at every stop light and stop sign.

What car, what modds?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:26 AM   #5
Unabomber
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There is no such thing as a Stage 2 clutch. You should state I have an Exedy 4432-101 or whatever the maker and part number is. Do you have a lightweight flywheel? If you have a stock flywheel was it new or did you have it properly resurfaced?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:29 AM   #6
S2xtreme4u
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecb View Post
What vehicle? What year? Fill out your profile.
2004 forester 2.5xt. Just updated my profile. New to nasioc.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #7
S2xtreme4u
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2004 Forester 2.5xt
Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayman4312 View Post
you should totally just dump the clutch and go at every stop light and stop sign.

What car, what modds?
Is there a way to add my mod list to my profile?

2004 Subaru Forester 2.5xt
Makes 300hp on the dyno
Only 200 miles on engine
Performance parts list below

The following parts have only 200 miles on them:

STI Short Block loaded 2.5L engine

STI EJ257 DOHC 101mm bore complete OEM gasket kit

STI performance racing timing belt

STI performance racing water pump

STI performance racing 11mm 2.5L oil pump

Deatschwerks 850cc top feed injectors

Deatschwerks 255 LPH in-tank fuel pump

AMR sti CXR500 8cm Turbo, STD inlet/ported with all lines

Perrin 2.4' Black turbo inlet hose

Clutch masters 2.5L FX200 stage 2 clutch kit

NGK iridium one step colder spark plug

ARP ej20/ej25 head stud kit

Perrin STI crank pulley

Mishimoto performance radiator

STI high airflow intake with AMR connector tube

Custom AMR top mount intercooler with Y tubing

All new sensors

All new vaccume lines

Cobb access tuner

Dyno Tuned making 300hp 17psi

There is a lot more to this list but I currently cant find the rest of the list. Will update as soon as I find it.


The following parts have 2.5 years on them (miles unknown):

COBB 3" down pipe with exhaust system.

HKS blow off/bypass valve

STI short throw shifter

Kyowa wide 17" racing rims

External car PA system

Dark window tint

Rear strut

Uhaul tow hitch

Everything else in the car has 170,000 miles on it
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:39 AM   #8
S2xtreme4u
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Silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
There is no such thing as a Stage 2 clutch. You should state I have an Exedy 4432-101 or whatever the maker and part number is. Do you have a lightweight flywheel? If you have a stock flywheel was it new or did you have it properly resurfaced?
It says stage 2 in the name so thats what i called jt. Here's what I have: Clutch masters 2.5L FX200 stage 2 clutch kit. Sorry but I don't know the part number. I had the flywheel resurfaced.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #9
rudymcskoody
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aspen white

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It gets better once broken in. I hate new clutches. Just be careful not to ease it in too much or it will glaze.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:12 AM   #10
art@grimmspeed
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Location: Maple Grove, MN
Vehicle:
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Aspen White

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When I replace the clutch in my bugeye it took about 500 miles to really smooth out on the engage point. It is pretty normal.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:45 PM   #11
street carp
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damn, all that work and $$$ in the engine and only 300hp? i guess its on a break in tune?
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:00 AM   #12
BeefCurtains64
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whats up with new members trying to be sarcastic ******* who repeatedly type what they see like a parrot monkey with a keyboard.

Parrot Monkey - a interbred new specie that are indigenous only @ NASIOC.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:09 AM   #13
Unabomber
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on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

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Do you have 500 miles on the clutch?
Did you read the post titled Clutch & Flywheel FAQ before purchasing?
Did you know that the ONE thing you care about when buying a clutch is how much torque you are making?
Did you know that the Clutchmasters FX200 is rated at "70% increase in holding capacity"?
Did you know that NO ONE knows how much torque the OEM stock clutch will hold?
Did you know that 70% times X = 70X and if you take your car's torque and you compare it to 70X, you will see that NO ONE can and should buy a Clutchmasters clutch ever?

Unless it settles down with more miles, the reason you are having issues is you bought the wrong brand and type of clutch.
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