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Old 02-08-2013, 02:52 PM   #26
breakablecookie
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I would contact STiMikey about this since he is the one who tuned the car but he never clears out his inbox so I cant message him. I need some help/input FAST! idk what else to do other than resorting to putting the turboxs BOV back on and hoping that my idle still isnt crazy
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:11 PM   #27
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One thing I forgot to mention but I doubt its the problem. When leaning into the engine while working I heard a loud SNAP! I starting looking around and noticed that I had broken a hose that I'm guessing is supposed to be rubber.

upon further inspection I realised its one of the vacuum hoses leading from the plastic intake piece attached to the turbo and it goes to the boost control solenoid. I took this entire piece out and realized that both ends of the hose were still soft rubber but the middle portion where it snapped had turned brittle and was like plastic.

Needless to say I was lucky that cobb had included a very healthy supply of vacuum hose so I replaced the broken hose with this new hose. I will include pictures to show what I am talking about.

My question is would this be the reason for my horrible idle? And yes I did connect the hose to the right part of the boost control solenoid.



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Old 02-08-2013, 04:13 PM   #28
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the last picture is with the new hose installed. Its a larger diameter than the hose which somehow snapped in half. Would this cause a big issue with how the boost control solenoid gets its readings and would that then effect my idle?
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:26 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
took it for a quick drive around the block it seemed to drive fine but if I start building boost the A/F ratio gauge goes to 10.0 flat and I have never seen that before. Why would putting on this new bpv cause something like this? Do I need a new tune now?

Sounds like you still have a boost leak. Check everything post maf. It could have been a hose torn or popped off by overboosting. Build one of these and I bet you find it :
forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205161
BTW I use the quick and dirty method but I limit the pressure to less than 8 psi.

Last edited by nmlittlebigman; 02-08-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:29 PM   #30
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the last picture is with the new hose installed. Its a larger diameter than the hose which somehow snapped in half. Would this cause a big issue with how the boost control solenoid gets its readings and would that then effect my idle?
cinch it up tight with a cable tie or use a hose clamp to make sure it doesnt leak
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:38 PM   #31
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A boost leak would cause my really bad idle that only showed up after I installed the cobb bpv? did you watch the video I posted of my idle and air fuel ratio fluctuations?
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:45 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post
Sounds like you still have a boost leak. Check everything post maf. It could have been a hose torn or popped off by overboosting. Build one of these and I bet you find it :
forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205161

BTW I use the quick and dirty method but I limit the pressure to less than 8 psi.
also this link is dead
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:42 PM   #33
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also this link is dead
Link should be fixed above (otherwise it shows up in search for DIY boost leak tester). I did not watch video yet. I was responding to your statement that you are seeing 10.0 flat AFR in OL. That's pretty indicative of a boost leak.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:01 PM   #34
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OK I watched your vid. "Kind of similar hose" is not the hose I would use. I would replace with the correct hoses. "period". A vacuum leak can cause rough idle. A leak test will reveal a vacuum leak too. Just build the tester and hook it up where your cai couples onto inlet. Keep air pressure low (less than 10 psi) and spray soapy water onto every connection. I bet you wont even need soap to find the large leaks as you will hear them first.

Last edited by nmlittlebigman; 02-08-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:34 PM   #35
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I had to makeshift a hose because Subaru didn't have the bpv recirculation hose and I needed to get this bpv on. But now I think I'm gonna have to deal with putting the bov back on, plugging the current hose up and waiting until I can get the correct hose and do it right
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:35 PM   #36
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Also to make things worse my other car which is a celica blew its motor today with only 26,000 miles!!! It's been a really bad day for me so any help would be great.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:34 PM   #37
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Also to make things worse my other car which is a celica blew its motor today with only 26,000 miles!!! It's been a really bad day for me so any help would be great.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Dude, if I was nearby I'd gladly loan you my tools or even one of my vehicles (excluding my STi... ) until you got it sorted out. Have you tried your regional forum to see if anyone can help you with a leak tester, extra parts etc.?
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:38 PM   #38
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Also I would think as long as both ends on your recirc hose don't leak that would not be your problem. It shouldn't see any positive pressure unless you are boosting anyways. I think it is more likely a vacuum hose or a torn turbo inlet. just my 2 cents
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post
Also I would think as long as both ends on your recirc hose don't leak that would not be your problem. It shouldn't see any positive pressure unless you are boosting anyways. I think it is more likely a vacuum hose or a torn turbo inlet. just my 2 cents
so if the recirc hose is leaking this would be the reason for my horrible idle and weird air fuel ratios? That hose doesnt see boost so I dont understand why that would cause such a big problem.

Either way tonight when I get off from work I'm gonna put the turboxs BOV back on and plug up the recirc hose. If my symptoms go away then that will tell me I dont have a solid seal on the hose I guess.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:45 AM   #40
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so if the recirc hose is leaking this would be the reason for my horrible idle and weird air fuel ratios? That hose doesnt see boost so I dont understand why that would cause such a big problem.
You are right. The recirc hose does not normally see boost except when the bypass valve opens (when you lift off the throttle in boost). It however will affect vacuum as it is connected to you intake track at the turbo inlet, Most all of your hoses can see vacuum at some point when manifold pressure is negative. So generally when map is positive you can push air out of these leaks (thus you go rich in wot), and when map is negative (in vacuum) they can pull air in making you lean. That can make a rough idle as your ecu is trying to compensate between what it sees at the maf and what it is seeing at your front o2 sensor.

Last edited by nmlittlebigman; 02-09-2013 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:09 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post
You are right. The recirc hose does not normally see boost except when the bypass valve opens (when you lift off the throttle in boost). It however will affect vacuum as it is connected to you intake track at the turbo inlet, Most all of your hoses can see vacuum at some point when manifold pressure is negative. So generally when map is positive you can push air out of these leaks (thus you go rich in wot), and when map is negative (in vacuum) they can pull air in making you lean. That can make a rough idle as your ecu is trying to compensate between what it sees at the maf and what it is seeing at your front o2 sensor.
You are absolutely right! Last night after work I decided to plug the one end of the recirc hose. And sure enough my rough idle and A/F ratios got better dramatically. Its still leaking on the other side of the hose really bad but thats an easy fix.

Makes sense that a leak from this would cause what I was seeing. Since that leaking air is coming from after the maf sensor so the engine has not accounted for it at all and so it has to compensate last second. I'm glad it wasnt something more serious.

Now a lot of people were saying i should get a 3-port boost control solenoid instead of keeping the stock one. Would I have to get a new tune in order to run that or would it just be plug and play?
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:37 AM   #42
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Well I think your initial boosting problems were due to the broken vacuum hose to your boost control solenoid.... that and the fact that cold temps often cause over boosting. I run a stock solenoid but I'm also keeping boost to 18.5 to 19.5 psi. If I were you I'd get everything buttoned up without leaks and see how your setup is performing. Talk to your tuner before changing anything out. He may be able to tweak your map for the winter if needed. good luck
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:33 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
Checked all lines and they are zip tied tight
That does not constitute a leak test. The ONLY way to leak test is to pressureize the system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
If it is simply just a boost spike what can I do to stop it from doing that?
Loosen the mbc. Utilizing a mbc it is your job to loosen(winter) / tighten(summer) the mbc to maintain the proper boost levels.
If you were tuned in the summer, then the mbc will be too tight and overboost in the winter. Plus changing the bov to a bpv will also change the setting that the mbc needs to be at.

Quote:
Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
it was 36 degrees this morning and the car had completely warmed up by the time I did the WOT pull. Are you sure the cold weather will effect the boost levels that much?
Yes, cold weather can/will cause boost spikes. You just need to loosen the mbc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
is there a way to stop the car from overboosting other than not going WOT in the higher gears?

I would ask STi Mikey for some input since he did the tune but his inbox is full
Loosen the mbc.

Also, you can contact me any time at the following if you have questions if mike is busy.
cell: 760-793-7924
email: r-j-w@rocketmail.com
aim: Phatron WRX
or pm me on here

Quote:
Originally Posted by breakablecookie View Post
Now a lot of people were saying i should get a 3-port boost control solenoid instead of keeping the stock one. Would I have to get a new tune in order to run that or would it just be plug and play?
The answer is that anytime you change any part you need to get retuned.

The fueling, timing, boost, etc all need to be checked everytime after you change a part.

Adding a 3 port to your system will allow you to run the hybrid boost control setup (MBC+EBCS). Doing this will give you the spool of the MBC along with teh safety features of the EBCS. Also, adding an EBCS to the system will allow utilization of the Intake Air Temp wgdc compensations which can be used to reduce the boost in cold weather so you wouldnt have to touch teh mbc setting.

hybrid ebcs+mbc
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602674

My suggestion is to install the bpv and get retuned. Almost all bov's leak. They cause idle problems, stalling when coming to a stop, rich afrs whenever you let off the gas, and can cause fireballs out the exhaust due to all the extra fuel. A BOV should never be used on a MAF based car as you are expelling air that was metered by the MAF sensor...so the ecu is injecting fuel based on that metered air and it will run rich when that air is expelled through the bov.

So if your BOV was leaking before then your tune just simply wont work with the new bpv.

Last edited by Phatron; 02-09-2013 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:03 PM   #44
breakablecookie
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Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
That does not constitute a leak test. The ONLY way to leak test is to pressureize the system.



Loosen the mbc. Utilizing a mbc it is your job to loosen(winter) / tighten(summer) the mbc to maintain the proper boost levels.
If you were tuned in the summer, then the mbc will be too tight and overboost in the winter. Plus changing the bov to a bpv will also change the setting that the mbc needs to be at.



Yes, cold weather can/will cause boost spikes. You just need to loosen the mbc.



Loosen the mbc.

Also, you can contact me any time at the following if you have questions if mike is busy.
cell: 760-793-7924
email: r-j-w@rocketmail.com
aim: Phatron WRX
or pm me on here


The answer is that anytime you change any part you need to get retuned.

The fueling, timing, boost, etc all need to be checked everytime after you change a part.

Adding a 3 port to your system will allow you to run the hybrid boost control setup (MBC+EBCS). Doing this will give you the spool of the MBC along with teh safety features of the EBCS. Also, adding an EBCS to the system will allow utilization of the Intake Air Temp wgdc compensations which can be used to reduce the boost in cold weather so you wouldnt have to touch teh mbc setting.

hybrid ebcs+mbc
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602674

My suggestion is to install the bpv and get retuned. Almost all bov's leak. They cause idle problems, stalling when coming to a stop, rich afrs whenever you let off the gas, and can cause fireballs out the exhaust due to all the extra fuel. A BOV should never be used on a MAF based car as you are expelling air that was metered by the MAF sensor...so the ecu is injecting fuel based on that metered air and it will run rich when that air is expelled through the bov.

So if your BOV was leaking before then your tune just simply wont work with the new bpv.
Alright thank you! I had noticed that by lowering the MBC I was not overboosting anymore and was reaching my target boost. Just trial and error while reading max boost on the cobb AP.

As for the rest of this stuff it sounds like I'm gonna have to wait and set up a new tune before I install my new cobb BPV or any other parts related to boost.

I realize that the only true way to check for a boost leak is to pressurize the system but I have no means of doing that so I'm limited to just visual inspection and maybe spraying soapy water on areas that I suspect are leaking.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:16 PM   #45
Phatron
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Even the spraying soapy water or carb cleaner trick doesnt work unless the leak is huge.

Every subaru owner should also go to home depot and get an air compressor....or else you're going to spend thousands over the years paying shops for leak tests.
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