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Old 01-29-2013, 09:56 AM   #1
Keaton522
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Default Any insight on why my timing jumped?

Here is the situation, 2002 wrx hybrid with a dom 3 freshly installed, all supporting mods, forged pistons, and refreshed heads. The car was tuned for a 20g, but I had to wait for a couple weeks to get it tuned so I was just going to drive it light. Well, long story short, I wasnt driving light and this crazy ticking began after a full boost pull. I removed the engine to figure out what happened as I believed it was a spun bearing (same type of noise). Turns out my timing had jump about 9 teeth... I believe now the ticking was the exhaust valves tapping the piston. Did this happen because my car wasnt properly tuned, or should I replace the tensioner and/or belt also while im in there. The one that is off is the drivers side exhaust and the sound was coming from the bottom rear drivers side of the engine. Thanks for your insight!


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Old 01-29-2013, 10:17 AM   #2
Flat 4 Motorsport
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Tensioner failed or a idler pully failed most likely.

Last edited by Flat 4 Motorsport; 01-29-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:19 PM   #3
Keaton522
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Thanks man. After a little time working on it today, I found a cracked lifter on the cam that was out of wack. Could this account for the tooth skipping?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaton522 View Post
Thanks man. After a little time working on it today, I found a cracked lifter on the cam that was out of wack. Could this account for the tooth skipping?
Thats probably the result of it skipping timing. Check your pulleys.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:03 PM   #5
the suicidal eggroll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport View Post
Thats probably the result of it skipping timing. Check your pulleys.
And the tensioner. If you didn't compress the tensioner properly when you removed it, you could have blown it, which means it's now useless and wasn't putting the proper tension on the belt.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post

And the tensioner. If you didn't compress the tensioner properly when you removed it, you could have blown it, which means it's now useless and wasn't putting the proper tension on the belt.
True story. If you do not compress it slowly, and vertically, it will be junk
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
True story. If you do not compress it slowly, and vertically, it will be junk
Slowly yes, vertically.... ?
I've compressed a hundred or so, all horizontally & none have failed
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:34 AM   #8
lavid2002
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+1 I have never heard this vertical mumbo jumbo. Can you elaborate please? Most people have vices and that's what I have always used, hroziontally on my bench. IDK about a hundred but I have done a good 25 or 30 tensioners like this
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:54 AM   #9
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It says so in the manual in the how to compress section.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sense of nature View Post

Slowly yes, vertically.... ?
I've compressed a hundred or so, all horizontally & none have failed
Did you actually test them after compressing them? I doubt it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
It says so in the manual in the how to compress section.
Yes...although I though it was the "Mumbo jumbo" section

Do whatever you want guys. Just know that the people who designed the tensioner say to compress it vertically, so chances are one of those "hundreds" of tensioners is going to fail prematurely.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:27 AM   #11
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Did you actually test them after compressing them? I doubt it...
How do you "test" the tensioner?
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:45 PM   #12
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How do you "test" the tensioner?
ME(STI)-51

AKA Page 51 of the STI engine mechanical section of the FSM.

You basically push it down with a set amount of pressure to see if it moves. You could also do this while it is installed
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Did you actually test them after compressing them? I doubt it...




Yes...although I though it was the "Mumbo jumbo" section

Do whatever you want guys. Just know that the people who designed the tensioner say to compress it vertically, so chances are one of those "hundreds" of tensioners is going to fail prematurely.
I worked @ a Subaru dealership for 8 years, factory trained . I would think that if there was a failure It would have come back w/ in that time period.Especially considering there were several customer cars I serviced the t belts twice due to them putting on over 200,000 miles on the same motors in the that time I worked there.
Every other Tech compressed them the same way, It was even discussed w/ the Dist service Mgr, He stated it was written like that as to avoid compressing it @ an angle.
Any of you remember the original style tensioner? The recommended means of testing was to pus the piston on the wall or floor Again, no failures from them either.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:48 PM   #14
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What dealership? It's kind of ****ty when even the dealer doesn't follow instructions. I'm doubting it was done that way because you didn't have a vertical press but more likely because the vise is easier.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #15
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any way i suppose your exhust valves are bent ? have you done a leak down or compression ck? ,at least its not a rod
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:54 PM   #16
Keaton522
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Yes, anyways. No bent valves! I was very surprised. Obviously, no marks on the top of the pistons either. I think Im going to purchase a new timing belt (no marks left on the 6 month old one) and tensioner, make sure all the other pulleys sound good and spin freely, purchase a new shim and feeler gauge the clearances to double check them all, and put this thing back together! Im just happy it wasnt a spun bearing. Sounded exactly like it from other peoples videos. I didnt do a leakdown or compression, but the car ran great before i removed the engine other than the obnoxiously loud ticking (the cam hitting the bucket top i suppose).
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