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Old 02-03-2013, 10:43 PM   #26
CurtisHilliker
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post


oh man......you aint been here long enough......that's for sure


man......i can close my eyes and see all the $$,$$$ you are gonna spend and on what and the look on your face a year or so from now when you realize that it has all been a total waste of all involved


buy the cheap motor....get the car running and cleaned up and ready to sell

and get ready to sell the wrx and buy something else

oh...and there are a LOT of guys who have spent $$$,$$$ and never got the car to run 10's at the 1/4 mile and handle so poorly that they are dangerous to drive

and YES...i really DO know what im talking about
So...all I did was ask you if you have owned/built one
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:50 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by CurtisHilliker View Post
So...all I did was ask you if you have owned/built one
I think Uncle Scotty comes across as a a$$hole.

BUT, you really should listen to that a$$hole. Dude know what he's talking about. Honestly, you should probably paypal him some $$$$ for the advice.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:08 PM   #28
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Anyways; new short block seems a little pricy considering I would still need to get the heads done and I would still need the new outer goodies. I'll post an update when I hear back from the metallizing folks.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:16 AM   #29
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Anyways; new short block seems a little pricy considering I would still need to get the heads done and I would still need the new outer goodies. I'll post an update when I hear back from the metallizing folks.
what are you thinking you are gonna hear back from them????

if you arent careful, you will end up with a money pit

i really AM trying to help ya out here


best $$$ spent is that used and complete running motor...then ya got a quick fix and another motor that ya can play with

but....beware...you have been warned

subarus are DIFFERENT....and what ya think is gonna work because it works for other kinds of cars many times WILL NOT work for subaru


lotsa guys have popped in here thining they were gonna slap a subaru together and go, no big deal.....and they crawled away months later, broke, and with a basket case of a car that wasnt worth enough to buy them a wrecked neon to drive
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:35 AM   #30
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what are you thinking you are gonna hear back from them????

if you arent careful, you will end up with a money pit

i really AM trying to help ya out here


best $$$ spent is that used and complete running motor...then ya got a quick fix and another motor that ya can play with

but....beware...you have been warned

subarus are DIFFERENT....and what ya think is gonna work because it works for other kinds of cars many times WILL NOT work for subaru


lotsa guys have popped in here thining they were gonna slap a subaru together and go, no big deal.....and they crawled away months later, broke, and with a basket case of a car that wasnt worth enough to buy them a wrecked neon to drive
Probably wont order anything until I get a price quote for getting my crank and flywheel done (my clutch is crud), also interested in getting a valve job. These people were the first metalizing specialists in the Antellope Valley (Southern California), my Dad also grew up with them (so it might be worth asking about).

Im not sure why you are so negative about this 205 idea...if I start with a clean block and drop in something like a forged crower set and go from there, I should be able to run something semi decent for a daily driver, wouldn't you agree??? I totaly agree about the tranny suggestion earlier; I am sure dropping in some gimmie's or somethin like that wouldn't be a bad idea considering those custom trannys are starting at like 5k...but the build idea is a down the road sort of deal.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:48 AM   #31
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For your time and money, a running drop in engine will be most value. Also everything else.
Listen to your Uncle. His head must hurt.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:52 AM   #32
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jesus....try to help these f00ls and they come at ya tellin ya ya trollin their thread

these guys are the caibre of the n000bs we are gettin here.....


and he is gonna wait for 'the metalizing place' to give him advice on what to do

too bloody marvelous

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 02-04-2013 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:27 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtisHilliker View Post
Im not sure why you are so negative about this 205 idea...if I start with a clean block and drop in something like a forged crower set and go from there,
D00000D. (to quote Uncle) Building a 205 is a complete waste of money. You can buy a brand new STi 2.5 sb for cheaper than the parts you're talking about. A solid 207 is another cheap option. Throwing money at a 205 block is a fools errand.

And that's why US comes across the way he does. Because he's seen so many foolish n00bs coming in and asking the same dumb questions day in and day out without even bothering to read all the good info on this forum.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:35 AM   #34
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D00000D. (to quote Uncle) Building a 205 is a complete waste of money. You can buy a brand new STi 2.5 sb for cheaper than the parts you're talking about. A solid 207 is another cheap option. Throwing money at a 205 block is a fools errand.

And that's why US comes across the way he does. Because he's seen so many foolish n00bs coming in and asking the same dumb questions day in and day out without even bothering to read all the good info on this forum.

and you didnt see the pm's this guy sent me

failboat is the only way this guy is gonna learn

maybe god will save him, someday....i tried to help and he dont want none of that


well... im gonna BET that the op will piddle fart around and waste a LOT of all involved before he realizes that I was right and he shoulda listened to me and woulda been better off if he had

but he will never admit it....other than in confession, maybe

im out
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:03 AM   #35
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Sometimes it is hard for people to step away from something they have known for a while and go in a different direction like he seems to be doing here. He is asking some valid questions. You stated that subaru's are way different and they are. So, the big thing right now is understanding what he knows and what he needs to know to get his car back on the road

Curtis, in all honesty, get a good used running longblock like the one you found and go with that for now. Another thing is checking your turbo oil feed line for any gunk and stuff and making sure it is clean when you reattach the oil feed line.

Another thing, you don't need the "subaru" special coolant. Get some Peak or one of the other name brands that are pre mixed and use that. Then, use an oil like Rotella T-6 5w40, M1 0w40, or something like valvoline maxlife high mileage 10w30 or valvoline SynPower 10w30 or 5w40 since you are in cali. Go ahead and use a blue subaru oil filter from a dealership there.

Some of us here have seen it all and know what really is the best direction to go and the cheapest route to take to get a car back on the road.

Then, later after you have read up and earned a bunch more about these subaru's and their engines and such then you could start putting a new engine build together parts wise.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:40 AM   #36
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New 2.5 shortblock from Subaru with drop in aftermarket pistons and reuse ur 2.0 heads, tune and call it a day. Rotella t6 oil is your best friend
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:54 PM   #37
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New 2.5 shortblock from Subaru with drop in aftermarket pistons and reuse ur 2.0 heads, tune and call it a day. Rotella t6 oil is your best friend
2200 + shipping right off the bat, not exactly a money saver.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #38
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Try $1800 from flatirons.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #39
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Call Import Image Racing, or talk to Unabomber on here. Both ways to get great discounts.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:03 PM   #40
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Thanks guys, maybe I will do a build with a 2.5 someday. The main focus here is still getting my car running for as little as possible. I am probably gonna just buy the used engine for now, seems like the cheapest route to go unless I get a deal from the machine shop.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:29 PM   #41
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Used engine eh
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by wrxlaunch View Post
New 2.5 shortblock from Subaru with drop in aftermarket pistons and reuse ur 2.0 heads, tune and call it a day. Rotella t6 oil is your best friend
I would rate Rotella further down the list.

My top oil choices are:
Motul 5w40
Mobil 1 0w40 (same oil used in the new GT-R)
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:12 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
I would rate Rotella further down the list.

My top oil choices are:
Motul 5w40
Mobil 1 0w40 (same oil used in the new GT-R)
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)

you would maybe not know any better
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:53 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
I would rate Rotella further down the list.

My top oil choices are:
Motul 5w40
Mobil 1 0w40 (same oil used in the new GT-R)
Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol)
Oil used in X car means nothing. All engines are different and require different specs. Just like Oil that cots 2-4 times more does not mean it's better. (Royal Purple for example)
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:37 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you would maybe not know any better
Actual i do know. Oil pressure varies with the different oils during operation (especially hard runs) and i can safely say there is a difference (from personal experience) in the oils.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HinshawWRX View Post
Oil used in X car means nothing. All engines are different and require different specs. Just like Oil that cots 2-4 times more does not mean it's better. (Royal Purple for example)
False assumption.

What's true is (regardless of engine). If oil A holds and provide better pressure than oil B in engine 1. It will also hold and provide better oil pressure in engine 2 than oil B.

Last edited by Fierysun; 02-05-2013 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:23 PM   #46
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Actual i do know. Oil pressure varies with the different oils during operation (especially hard runs) and i can safely say there is a difference (from personal experience) in the oils.



False assumption.

What's true is (regardless of engine). If oil A holds and provide better pressure than oil B in engine 1. It will also hold and provide better oil pressure in engine 2 than oil B.



you MUST be another bloody engineer....OMG....tell me it aint so

and i can tell you that the Motul is way overpriced....the m1 is ok but there are better m1 products and the gc isnt raedilly available everywhere

and

Quote:
Mobil 1 0w40 (same oil used in the new GT-R)
is irrelevant and has always been

but YOU missed seveal points being made, and made your own ASSumptions, anyway....so.....meh
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:31 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post



you MUST be another bloody engineer....OMG....tell me it aint so

and i can tell you that the Motul is way overpriced....the m1 is ok but there are better m1 products and the gc isnt raedilly available everywhere

and



is irrelevant and has always been

but YOU missed seveal points being made, and made your own ASSumptions, anyway....so.....meh
As always, you always make ASSumptions of everything as well as yourself.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:05 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post

Actual i do know. Oil pressure varies with the different oils during operation (especially hard runs) and i can safely say there is a difference (from personal experience) in the oils.

False assumption.

What's true is (regardless of engine). If oil A holds and provide better pressure than oil B in engine 1. It will also hold and provide better oil pressure in engine 2 than oil B.
This would all be assuming engine 1 and 2 had the EXACT same amount and weight of oil as well as the same clearances everywhere...so not likely at all just saying
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:58 AM   #49
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This would all be assuming engine 1 and 2 had the EXACT same amount and weight of oil as well as the same clearances everywhere...so not likely at all just saying
The clearances between engine 1 and 2 isn't going to change the difference between oil A and B. If oil A behaves better than oil B in engine 1, it's not going to behave worse than oil B in engine 2.

Granted the oil pressure may be different between the two engines (same engine family) due to the clearances, but the oils (same or very similiar weight) is not going to change it's properties.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:06 AM   #50
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I <3 Amsoil

Last edited by CurtisHilliker; 02-06-2013 at 02:06 AM. Reason: wrong smiley face
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