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Old 02-07-2013, 02:52 PM   #51
CurtisHilliker
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I have found several used low mileage (USDM) engines that are tested, documented, ready to drop in minus some externals (ac, alternator, ps pump, starter). At least this way I dont have to take parts in for machining (except for my flywheel, you can feel the groove in that poor thing). I'll post new photos assuming I get started some time this year
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:52 PM   #52
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So what is the actual recommendation from those in the know, 40 weight? Synthetic or conventional?
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:30 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by gtx matt View Post
So what is the actual recommendation from those in the know, 40 weight? Synthetic or conventional?
Send me a pm about your car, how many miles, how you drive, any mods and I'll give you some recommendations
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:34 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by CurtisHilliker View Post
I have found several used low mileage (USDM) engines that are tested, documented, ready to drop in minus some externals (ac, alternator, ps pump, starter). At least this way I dont have to take parts in for machining (except for my flywheel, you can feel the groove in that poor thing). I'll post new photos assuming I get started some time this year
At this point since you want to keep it stock for a while so you can save up for a different engine build, get one of those good engines and put it in your car. I would actually opt to buy a new flywheel and a new clutch together. There's some nice clutch and fly wheel packages on ebay that you can get for a good deal since you don't need anything beyond a stock clutch.

If you want some links send me a pm
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:46 AM   #55
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So what is the actual recommendation from those in the know, 40 weight? Synthetic or conventional?

crisco.....or wesson, whichever ya get on sale
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:23 PM   #56
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crisco.....or wesson, whichever ya get on sale

HAHAHAHAHA!!! Thanks Scott, I needed that.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #57
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crisco.....or wesson, whichever ya get on sale
Don't laugh, I know of a guy that years ago had a 70 Charger R/T. No money for oil, so he topped it off with Wesson cooking oil, against the advice of a buddy who told him he'd be better off running it low and babying it.

Guy topped it off and proceeded to paint the street for a couple hundred feet until #7 let go on him!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:14 PM   #58
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.....

Last edited by nhat; 02-11-2013 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:55 AM   #59
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I <3 Amsoil
Maybe I missed it, but I still don't see which grade you or the previous owner used.
With Amsoil, skip the Signature Series, XL, and OE lines.

-Dennis
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:25 PM   #60
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Maybe I missed it, but I still don't see which grade you or the previous owner used.
With Amsoil, skip the Signature Series, XL, and OE lines.

-Dennis
Negative Ghostrider, signature series oil is back flippin awesome (althought I still drain and replace well below the 15k-25k services).
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:30 PM   #61
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Negative Ghostrider, signature series oil is back flippin awesome (althought I still drain and replace well below the 15k-25k services).
It may be awesome oil, but it is not a good oil for most Subaru turbo applications. I've run it twice to 8k and an STI owner over at IWSTI.com ran it as well and there are much better Amsoil oils for our application. Do a search in the Service & Maint. forum, at IWSTI, and bitog for uoa's.

HDD 5W-30, DEO 5W-40, AMO 10W-40, EFM 5W-40, Dominator 10W-30, or Z-Rod 10W-30 would all be better choices. Keep running your girly man Signature Series and you'll likely be in the same boat again. ;-) These cars need a robust additive package and an HTHS of 3.5 or higher.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 02-12-2013 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:40 PM   #62
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What about the amsoil high zinc formula?
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:44 PM   #63
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This?
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ion-motor-oil/

It's AMO 10W-40 that I mentioned above (check Amsoil's product code).

-Dennis
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:17 PM   #64
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Yup thats it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:26 PM   #65
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It may be awesome oil, but it is not a good oil for most Subaru turbo applications. I've run it twice to 8k and an STI owner over at IWSTI.com ran it as well and there are much better Amsoil oils for our application. Do a search in the Service & Maint. forum, at IWSTI, and bitog for uoa's.

HDD 5W-30, DEO 5W-40, AMO 10W-40, EFM 5W-40, Dominator 10W-30, or Z-Rod 10W-30 would all be better choices. Keep running your girly man Signature Series and you'll likely be in the same boat again. ;-) These cars need a robust additive package and an HTHS of 3.5 or higher.

-Dennis
I am fairly certain that hard driving is what makes the difference, and is the engine designed to work with a 40 viscosity? I think running an added oil cooler would really help.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:09 AM   #66
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Anyways...waiting for money to come in (lame). Im assuming at least a week (more like two )before I get the engine ordered :'(
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:47 AM   #67
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Anyways...waiting for money to come in (lame). Im assuming at least a week (more like two )before I get the engine ordered :'(
Well, at least you should be getting the car running soon!! Let us know about what is possibly needed before you put it in ok
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:55 AM   #68
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I am fairly certain that hard driving is what makes the difference, and is the engine designed to work with a 40 viscosity? I think running an added oil cooler would really help.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ent=oilvis.jpg

that came straight out of my 2006 impreza fsm

the earlier fsm's had almost identical pages


forget the oil cooler...use the right oil

my car has 105k miles on it and has been running 20psi boost since 6 k miles and it uses NO oil at 7k - 8k oci's

no oil cooler
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:05 AM   #69
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http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ent=oilvis.jpg

that came straight out of my 2006 impreza fsm

the earlier fsm's had almost identical pages

forget the oil cooler...use the right oil

my car has 105k miles on it and has been running 20psi boost since 6 k miles and it uses NO oil at 7k - 8k oci's

no oil cooler
+1.

If the car didn't come with an owner's manual, sign up here so you can read the oil info:

https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/account.html

-Dennis
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:22 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Well, at least you should be getting the car running soon!! Let us know about what is possibly needed before you put it in ok
Will do, I'll post some photos when I get it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ent=oilvis.jpg

that came straight out of my 2006 impreza fsm

the earlier fsm's had almost identical pages


forget the oil cooler...use the right oil

my car has 105k miles on it and has been running 20psi boost since 6 k miles and it uses NO oil at 7k - 8k oci's

no oil cooler
Cool, if Subi reccommends it (and I do live in the Mojave Desert) then I will probably go 10w-40.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:00 PM   #71
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Will do, I'll post some photos when I get it.




Cool, if Subi reccommends it (and I do live in the Mojave Desert) then I will probably go 10w-40.

what 10w40??

that may or may not be a good idea

and that amsoil garbage is just that...overpriced garbage

and a 50wt may be best for summer use.......100*F+ all the time would require it IMO
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:08 PM   #72
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Are you referring to Adams Metalizing? They might be good at machining stuff and well known for American v8's but my dad just had them do machining on his rebuild 2003 Wrx and it lasted 400 miles. Pops learned the hard way that subys are not like other engines. Much more sensitive to bearing clearances. He ended up buying a new 2005 Wrx crank and oversized crank brgs. It's working so far (1500 miles since rebuild #2 but he's still crossing fingers)
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Probably wont order anything until I get a price quote for getting my crank and flywheel done (my clutch is crud), also interested in getting a valve job. These people were the first metalizing specialists in the Antellope Valley (Southern California), my Dad also grew up with them (so it might be worth asking about).

Im not sure why you are so negative about this 205 idea...if I start with a clean block and drop in something like a forged crower set and go from there, I should be able to run something semi decent for a daily driver, wouldn't you agree??? I totaly agree about the tranny suggestion earlier; I am sure dropping in some gimmie's or somethin like that wouldn't be a bad idea considering those custom trannys are starting at like 5k...but the build idea is a down the road sort of deal.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:31 AM   #73
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Are you referring to Adams Metalizing? They might be good at machining stuff and well known for American v8's but my dad just had them do machining on his rebuild 2003 Wrx and it lasted 400 miles. Pops learned the hard way that subys are not like other engines. Much more sensitive to bearing clearances. He ended up buying a new 2005 Wrx crank and oversized crank brgs. It's working so far (1500 miles since rebuild #2 but he's still crossing fingers)
Im sorry to hear that, hope they made right on that issue. Ive been looking over a lot of pricing, and for going stock it is just cheaper to buy a used motor. Or maybe I could just emery cloth the crank and throw in some new bearings.........JK!!!!!!! Im still just waiting for money to come in so I can send it right back out :/
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:44 AM   #74
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BuyingAmotorTodayforWaytooMuchmoney.com


Yippppeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:33 AM   #75
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was wondering i work at gm i got the mobil 1 full synthetic for free its 5w30 i just did a oil change a few weeks ago on my wrx and went out in the snow for some fun after 1 hr of drifting i started to get the knock of death lol u think oil starvation or the oil i used of both lol im leaning more towards the starvation now what oil should u use all year round i im able to get gm normal 5w30 motor oil and dex semi synthetic 5w30 oil or should i get caster gtx oil 5w30 or 10w40 i use 10w40 in summer mostly im planing on getting a 6q oil pan for the rebuild
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