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Old 02-04-2013, 05:02 PM   #1
ENY169
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Default deep scratches/scrape along side of the car w/pics

car is a 2005 92x aero

previous owner didnt bother fixing a huge scrape along the passenger side of the car and the price i paid reflected his neglect. i had a pro detailer clay bar'd then cut and polish the entire car. he got most of it out except the deeper stuff and theres a lot of them bunched up together. looks like i need to do some wet sanding once summer comes

now i dont have a Porter cable or a garage so all of this will be outside and by hand. i dont wanna spend a ton of cash either so pls keep that in mind. this is a daily driver





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Old 02-04-2013, 05:08 PM   #2
white guys wrx
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Take your finger nail and see if it catches anywhere in the scratches... If it does, you do not have much choice to have it sanded an repainted.

If it does not catch then you should be able to wet sand and buff it.

It is hard to tell in the pictures but the majority of it SHOULD come out. It looks like the marks around the back wheel well will most likely not come out but the doors look ok.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:57 PM   #3
ENY169
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a repaint is not an option at this time. my nail does catch some of the scratches but not all of it. from my research on google, and youtoube videos, they were able to get deep scratches out by wet sanding and polishing by hand

is it possible to smear paint over the deeper scratches then try and blend it in after wards by wet sanding or another method? kinda like how the dr colorchip works
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:19 PM   #4
white guys wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
a repaint is not an option at this time. my nail does catch some of the scratches but not all of it. from my research on google, and youtoube videos, they were able to get deep scratches out by wet sanding and polishing by hand

is it possible to smear paint over the deeper scratches then try and blend it in after wards by wet sanding or another method? kinda like how the dr colorchip works

The majority of it will come out.

- Do not smear any paint over your existing paint... just wait. I understanding re-painting and all of that is costly. Honestly what I would do is review a few youtube videos on how to wet sand and polish your car. Do some practice spots and it should turn out fairly nice.


All cars are painted with BASE (primer) PAINT, then Clear coat. In the clear coat there are several layers of it. 99% of the time when your car gets a little white scratch or something of the sort it can be buffed out due to the clear coat being so thick.

To answer your question, YES you can do it by hand. It will not turn out as good as using an electric buffer but it will remove some of it.

Another option - take it to a detail shop and talk to them prior to allowing them to "detail" your car and show them the spot...maybe they can wet sand and buff it out real quick for you ;-)

Option 2: some auto zones sell the touch up kits that include a drill bit addon that might help but I've personally never used it on a drill due to the RPMs not being fast enough...

Last edited by white guys wrx; 02-04-2013 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:51 PM   #5
ENY169
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we dont have autozone in canada, at least not in my province but im sure i know what you're talking about

a porter cable here seems to run around the $190 range. im hoping i can find it somewhere cheaper or when i go down to the states. prob get a few cans of plasti dip as well since they are like 3 times what they cost here versus down in the states

i've never wet sanded before but apparently its safer to do this all by hand to prevent taking off too much clear coat. this is probably gonna take awhile since the damaged area is huge. not just one scratch by itself

also, on the first photo, near the edge of the door. the paint has cracked and has started to rust underneath. this is the same on the drivers rear fender. how do i go about fixing that?

remove loose paint and rust
sand
POR15
sand
putty
sand
paint with 1 stage base/clear ?? (does this exist)
then blend to existing paint ????
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:15 AM   #6
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Ok, slow down with all of this repaint talk. Most of the damage does not appear to have struck through the clear to the Base (color) coat. Now of course my observations can only be but so accurate by simply looking at pictures. With that being said here is what I suggest.

Wet sanding will be necessary, which will need to be followed by a compound capable of removing the marks from whatever grit you end up needing to use. A machine polisher will be needed for just about all of this correction. This is more than likely not correctable by hand.

Picture 1 (Rear passenger door and quarter)
- There will definitely need to be some wet sanding done here.
- The damage done to the beginning of that passenger quarter panel is pretty severe and is in a very awkward spot. You are going to need to be very careful on the edges where the door meets the panel as there is a high risk of strike through while sanding and buffing. Your best bet here is to leave the door closed and tape the edge of the door to limit that corner exposure.

Picture 2 (Front passenger fender)
- Again some of this will need to be wet sanded and obviously watch those sharp edges.

Picture 3 (Passenger door)
- Most of this is probably correctable with compound followed by a polish, I think I see a few deeper scratches that may need to be sanded but not sure.


Just to clear a few things up....the base coat is the actual color coat which is laid down on top of the primer. They are not one in the same.

No there isn't color/clear one stage paint...that I'm aware of anyway.

Now, what products do you currently have?

Like I said above, these are all observations I have made based on your photos. You will obviously need to make adjustments based on what you physically have in front of you. Don't let all of this intimidate you, it is really not that complicated once you get into it.

Last edited by AspenScoob255; 02-05-2013 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:45 PM   #7
ENY169
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I dont think it has gone thru the base coat as well but it def catches when I run my nail over some of the scratches. If I have to buy a porter cable or something similar I will but that's the most I'll spend on one item. It'll be a while till I can work on this so I'll post some after pics in a few months. Thanks for everyone's help
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENY169 View Post
I dont think it has gone thru the base coat as well but it def catches when I run my nail over some of the scratches. If I have to buy a porter cable or something similar I will but that's the most I'll spend on one item. It'll be a while till I can work on this so I'll post some after pics in a few months. Thanks for everyone's help
Ok, well like I said sanding is going to be necessary and even then you may not get 100% correction "safely". Keep us posted and good luck, send a post if you need any help. We have some pretty knowledgable people on this forum.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:39 PM   #9
ENY169
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btw i dont have any products right now. i'll be picking those up when im ready.

what do you guys suggest for compound and polishing products? meguiars seems to be popular

how about sandpaper grit? can i get away with just a 2000 or should i have something finer?

if i do get a PC, what and how many different types of pads should i buy?
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:26 AM   #10
teamsubaru5
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Try the least abrasive compound/polish and work your way up. I have seen professional detailers buff through right through the clear coat too many times. Subaru paint is extremely soft water-based paint so you also need to keep that in mind.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:12 PM   #11
ENY169
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update

Its getting warmer up here so I picked up the meguiars DA power system, the compound kit, polish kit, and wax kit. I think all I need now is sand paper and a warm day to give this a go

I've read some reviews and seen before/after photos using the DA system. will this be enough to correct the wet sanding marks ??
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:36 PM   #12
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it should be, i would just wet sand the whole area where the scrapes instead of individually around the scratches. hit it with 1000, 1500, then 2000. then move onto the da - compound, then polish, then wax.

its good you picked up a DA, because they are extremely user friendly and safe, allowing you to work product for a very long time on a panel without damage
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:35 PM   #13
ENY169
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I plan on going with a 2500 or 3000 cuz I've never wet sanded before and I don't wanna take off too much clear coat

I'm just concerned the da power system will not be enough to take out the wet sanding marks. According to meguiars its not designed for wet sanding jobs
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:42 PM   #14
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The DA system should be enough. Put on a lesser aggressive pad to start and work your way to a more aggressive. Wet sanding is incredibly aggressive and requires a very experienced hand and a lot of patience.

With the DA you will see quick results and it will be difficult to harm the paint. Their aggressive pads are just that, aggressive. Take your time, and thoroughly clean the area first. Meguiar's Medium to Moderate Cut Pads and Compounds (Ultimate Compound or Fine Cut) should do the trick.

I used a lower level high gloss polish with minimal cut to take some scuffs and scratches out that were similar. Some one had got too close and left a nice scrape on my rear bumper from a parking lot. Using a DA the scratches and scuffs came out...Of course the paint chips could not be corrected.

In my 3 years of experience with this machine, you should have no problem removing 90% or more of those scratches, if not make them look less obvious. Remember to take your time, and watch a few YouTube videos first.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:42 PM   #15
ENY169
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are you saying to avoid wet sanding all together and just use the compound kit to remove the scratches?
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:58 PM   #16
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DO NOT WET SAND!!!!!!!!!!!

No need to. You will do more damage and possibly strike through the clear coat. Use the DA system and it will fix most of that. Again do not wet sand.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subydude81 View Post
DO NOT WET SAND!!!!!!!!!!!

No need to. You will do more damage and possibly strike through the clear coat. Use the DA system and it will fix most of that. Again do not wet sand.
Yeah, because the world may end! Use the least aggressive process first before moving on to extreme options. DA compound/polish first. If the results are not of your liking try once more. If your still unsatisfied wetsand using 2000-2500 grit on a sanding block while attempting flat surfaces. Respect the sandpapers capabilities and move slowly, while letting the sandpaper do the work...do not apply much pressure if any. Subi paint is quite soft, I've seen paint correction pros burn through in areas. Finally compound/polish once more and you should be good.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:23 AM   #18
ENY169
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makes sense, thank you to everyone!

it should be warm enough this weekend to give it a go. i'll post pics of the result. no wet sanding for now

btw, can anyone think of a reason why the pro detailer couldnt' get rid of the scrapes? he told me its gonna require wet sanding because he cut it a few times and it only looked marginally better. is it possible he didn't compound it?
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:14 PM   #19
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I'd be wary of bringing sandpaper anywhere near that. I would use some rubbing compound or a scotch-brite on the rougher areas, just go in a circular motion and make sure to wax afterwards.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #20
ENY169
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is scotch brite finer than 3000 grit??

I went through each panel on the passenger side today 3 times. While the ultimate compound along with the pad that comes with it, made the areas look better, there are plenty of deeper scratches left.

looks like im gonna have to pick up some 3000 grit wet sand paper. after using the DA system today, I feel confident enough to try wet sanding. starting on a small area and using little to no pressure on the sanding block
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