2011 Sti Gt30r

sti0087 · 05-14-2013, 09:15 PM

What upgrades do I need in my ST I before I run this Turbo?? I know I need front mount with rotate down pipe?? Tune ...help

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207STi · 05-14-2013, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sti0087

What upgrades do I need in my ST I before I run this Turbo?? I know I need front mount with rotate down pipe?? Tune ...help

You need to spend more time reading and understanding, it seems like you have spent very little time researching what could turn out to be a 5k plus investment. Also there are many people running larger turbos than a 30r on a TMIC. Just spend about an hour a day researching and developing your build for the next couple weeks and go from there.

Shortpersonbk · 05-14-2013, 09:32 PM

Built motor, injectors, fmic, new intake for the fmic, rotated kit (upipe, downpipe), new clutch, gauges such as A/F, boost

--
chances are your in over your head and if you half ass it you will end up with a broken sti that will never be fixed right

sti0087 · 05-14-2013, 09:38 PM

I know Im in for a long work in prgress..just building my subaru with a plan. I really wana do it the right way just curious what the car can handle with stock trani and internals.

wrxsubiemod · 05-14-2013, 09:53 PM

About 320ish whp till the pistons crack

Shortpersonbk · 05-14-2013, 09:57 PM

IF that, Im scared on factory internals on factory turbo i know many people that have blown them on the new STIs, my dads just waiting for it to blow up and hes only at 25k miles on his 2012. The trans is golden till over 600whp if not higher EASY as long as you can drive, you WILL need a new clutch even stg 2 starts to burn it up pretty good after a couple k miles. DO NOT just toss this **** together unless you have another DD and this is just your weekend project car.

shawns_sick_STi · 05-14-2013, 10:54 PM

I ran 380whp with a 30r and alcohol on my stock engine for years. Only reason it went out, was I ran it low on oil and spun #4 rod. But in reality it will cost close to 10k to do a proper 30r set up if you have a shop install the parts and tune it. Pretty much all systems need upgrading. Not counting a built bottom end(because if you tune it right and don't drive like Vin Diesel it will last), you need to address the clutch, entire fuel system, entire intake system, intercooler, entire exhaust system, throw in some tgv deletes, and a water/meth kit.

Eisenbergs blue boo · 05-15-2013, 04:29 AM

You could keep it simple as I did first. Lasted for years and plenty of miles with decent power and 10-15 times on 110 or c16 fuel maxing out the turbo

Easiest way
30r rotated kit which comes with the downpipe, uppipe, intake, Watergate, turbo and all fittings, lines for the turbo, Fmic with piping and bov
You need injectors, fuel pump, and an accessport or some kind of way to tune it. Tactrix cable on open source, romraider is alot cheaper as all you have to buy is a 150 cord

That is all, no built motor, Trans, clutch, intake manifold, or header, rails for or anything like that is absolutely nessacary

slowgenius · 05-15-2013, 08:08 AM

^^^+1
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2497782

Give mike from innovative a call. Have him build and tune your car. Obviously the stock short block can make power. A mild build and an awesome tune will help keep it reliable.

To prove its not a fluke:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2499782

wrxsubiemod · 05-15-2013, 09:41 AM

I would recommend pistons. For any turbo bigger than stock. Sure we have people making power on stock blocks but this is the weak link.

Eisenbergs blue boo · 05-15-2013, 10:12 AM

If he pulls that motor out early. It's a big waste of how long it would have lasted. All these mods I mentioned are a pretty easy install. Motor will double his bill very easily. And it's not a fluke if it lasts. Long as it's in good condition before this upgrade. And tuned and treated decent. It will last as a fun dd with power. Not race car treatment. But for most of us dd is all we require

I've personally known at least 5 Sti that have similar stories

FuJi K · 05-15-2013, 10:40 AM

Don't be surprised when your piston dies.

shawns_sick_STi · 05-15-2013, 11:38 AM

Ringland failure is not an inevitable outcome of making HP from a Subaru. With proper tuning and water/meth for a safety margin it can and will last. Also if you can keep in mind that just because you have 350+whp doesn't mean you need to use it every mile the car drives. You can have a long fun life out of the factory engine. My stock engine lasted 70k miles running over 19psi and the last 40k was 350-380whp at 24psi and the rings never failed. I had been running it hard because my friend had just got his wagon up and running and I wasn't checking my oil.

SplatWRX · 05-15-2013, 11:52 AM

Easiest way without going FMIC
ATP3076GTX stock location turbo.
30mm turbo inlet.
Fuel pump
ID1000 injectors
Tune.

Proper way..
See what everybody else above posted.
Me?
If I was going to do it all again?

Id have to think about it some more.

FuJi K · 05-15-2013, 11:55 AM

I could put together some 600whp car and just baby it is whole life and get 200k miles.

reemwrb04sti · 05-15-2013, 03:47 PM

I wouldn't build the motor..30r kit rotated or stock location...fuel injectors full exhaust,intake,fuel pump and cobb AP...if you pull the motor most I will do is drop in pistons and that will last a long time tuned well with regular maintenance of course...bigger tmic would work or you can go fmic...keep it simple ! Just my .02 cents

Irv Weissmanhowerton · 05-15-2013, 05:45 PM

yep, I agree with what eisenberg said and the few others

MMY MSL · 05-15-2013, 07:03 PM

Seems like a lot of people are recommending meth or motor builds, GTX turbos and rotated kits...which aren't really necessary.

The bare minimum is:
Stock location 30r or comparable (1000 used/1700 new)
Oil lines ($50-100)
Fuel system upgrades: pump, injectors, etc (400 USED/700 NEW)
Accessport ($400/600)
Dyno tune ($200/500)
Stray gaskets, fluids, etc ($100)

There are a lot of other upgrades (exhaust & intake, meth, cams, forged internals, gauges, rotated kit, coatings, etc) that will let you maximize your power output and reliability, but that's the most basic way I can think to install a 30r or comparable turbo.

Asking such open questions tends to lead me to believe you don't entirely know what you want though... other than you want to modify your Subaru. Are you DDing it? Draggin it? AutoXing it? A basic 30r may be overkill for some goals, or underkill depending entirely on what those goals are.

My thoughts are to drive it a bit, find a reputable tuner to bounce ideas off of. Then determine what your goals are for the use of the car and purchase mods accordingly.

Scuby04STi · 05-18-2013, 05:20 PM

Im with MMY MSL on this one, I just finished a GTX30R build and had a very specific way I wanted the power delivered as well as a need for minimizing the powerloss through the next "weakest link" in the system. So i changed just about everything.

If your goal is a 400+whp set up that pulls till 8k I can lay out all the parts for you, I assume your goals are a bit more mild seeing how you worded things. If you can pin down exactly how you want your car to act then it becomes extreemly easy to figure out what it will take you to get there.

05-14-2013, 09:15 PM	#1
sti0087 Scooby Newbie Member#: 350373 Join Date: Mar 2013 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Burbank, CA Vehicle: 2011 STI Grey	2011 Sti Gt30r What upgrades do I need in my ST I before I run this Turbo?? I know I need front mount with rotate down pipe?? Tune ...help * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

05-15-2013, 04:29 AM	#8
Eisenbergs blue boo Scooby Newbie Member#: 297902 Join Date: Oct 2011 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: area p, alliance fab Vehicle: 2004 Keegan LB, 30r Phatron tuned sti	You could keep it simple as I did first. Lasted for years and plenty of miles with decent power and 10-15 times on 110 or c16 fuel maxing out the turbo Easiest way 30r rotated kit which comes with the downpipe, uppipe, intake, Watergate, turbo and all fittings, lines for the turbo, Fmic with piping and bov You need injectors, fuel pump, and an accessport or some kind of way to tune it. Tactrix cable on open source, romraider is alot cheaper as all you have to buy is a 150 cord That is all, no built motor, Trans, clutch, intake manifold, or header, rails for or anything like that is absolutely nessacary Last edited by Eisenbergs blue boo; 05-15-2013 at 10:08 AM.

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05-14-2013, 09:32 PM	#3
Shortpersonbk Scooby Specialist Member#: 319017 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Michigan Vehicle: 2005 SAABARU 18g xt JDM 6 speed	Built motor, injectors, fmic, new intake for the fmic, rotated kit (upipe, downpipe), new clutch, gauges such as A/F, boost -- chances are your in over your head and if you half ass it you will end up with a broken sti that will never be fixed right

05-14-2013, 09:38 PM	#4
sti0087 Scooby Newbie Member#: 350373 Join Date: Mar 2013 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Burbank, CA Vehicle: 2011 STI Grey	I know Im in for a long work in prgress..just building my subaru with a plan. I really wana do it the right way just curious what the car can handle with stock trani and internals.

05-14-2013, 09:53 PM	#5
wrxsubiemod Scooby Specialist Member#: 165104 Join Date: Nov 2007 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: name where you like it Vehicle: E85 bug-i sti swap Phatron tuned	About 320ish whp till the pistons crack

05-14-2013, 09:57 PM	#6
Shortpersonbk Scooby Specialist Member#: 319017 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Michigan Vehicle: 2005 SAABARU 18g xt JDM 6 speed	IF that, Im scared on factory internals on factory turbo i know many people that have blown them on the new STIs, my dads just waiting for it to blow up and hes only at 25k miles on his 2012. The trans is golden till over 600whp if not higher EASY as long as you can drive, you WILL need a new clutch even stg 2 starts to burn it up pretty good after a couple k miles. DO NOT just toss this **** together unless you have another DD and this is just your weekend project car.

05-14-2013, 10:54 PM	#7
shawns_sick_STi Scooby Newbie Member#: 126107 Join Date: Sep 2006 Chapter/Region: TXIC Location: Houston Texas Vehicle: 2004 STi silver	I ran 380whp with a 30r and alcohol on my stock engine for years. Only reason it went out, was I ran it low on oil and spun #4 rod. But in reality it will cost close to 10k to do a proper 30r set up if you have a shop install the parts and tune it. Pretty much all systems need upgrading. Not counting a built bottom end(because if you tune it right and don't drive like Vin Diesel it will last), you need to address the clutch, entire fuel system, entire intake system, intercooler, entire exhaust system, throw in some tgv deletes, and a water/meth kit.

05-15-2013, 08:08 AM	#9
slowgenius Scooby Specialist Member#: 48350 Join Date: Nov 2003 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Pittsburgh Vehicle: 04 WRX	^^^+1 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2497782 Give mike from innovative a call. Have him build and tune your car. Obviously the stock short block can make power. A mild build and an awesome tune will help keep it reliable. To prove its not a fluke: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2499782

05-15-2013, 09:41 AM	#10
wrxsubiemod Scooby Specialist Member#: 165104 Join Date: Nov 2007 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: name where you like it Vehicle: E85 bug-i sti swap Phatron tuned	I would recommend pistons. For any turbo bigger than stock. Sure we have people making power on stock blocks but this is the weak link.

05-15-2013, 10:12 AM	#11
Eisenbergs blue boo Scooby Newbie Member#: 297902 Join Date: Oct 2011 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: area p, alliance fab Vehicle: 2004 Keegan LB, 30r Phatron tuned sti	If he pulls that motor out early. It's a big waste of how long it would have lasted. All these mods I mentioned are a pretty easy install. Motor will double his bill very easily. And it's not a fluke if it lasts. Long as it's in good condition before this upgrade. And tuned and treated decent. It will last as a fun dd with power. Not race car treatment. But for most of us dd is all we require I've personally known at least 5 Sti that have similar stories

05-15-2013, 10:40 AM	#12
FuJi K Scooby Guru Member#: 3687 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: St. Paul, MN Vehicle: MY99 GF4 JDM 6spd NF Performance	Don't be surprised when your piston dies.

05-15-2013, 11:38 AM	#13
shawns_sick_STi Scooby Newbie Member#: 126107 Join Date: Sep 2006 Chapter/Region: TXIC Location: Houston Texas Vehicle: 2004 STi silver	Ringland failure is not an inevitable outcome of making HP from a Subaru. With proper tuning and water/meth for a safety margin it can and will last. Also if you can keep in mind that just because you have 350+whp doesn't mean you need to use it every mile the car drives. You can have a long fun life out of the factory engine. My stock engine lasted 70k miles running over 19psi and the last 40k was 350-380whp at 24psi and the rings never failed. I had been running it hard because my friend had just got his wagon up and running and I wasn't checking my oil.

05-15-2013, 11:52 AM	#14
SplatWRX Scooby Specialist Member#: 85932 Join Date: Apr 2005 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Cincinnati's West Side Vehicle: 2005 STi / 2013 STi 2005 Forester XTi	Easiest way without going FMIC ATP3076GTX stock location turbo. 30mm turbo inlet. Fuel pump ID1000 injectors Tune. Proper way.. See what everybody else above posted. Me? If I was going to do it all again? Id have to think about it some more.

05-15-2013, 11:55 AM	#15
FuJi K Scooby Guru Member#: 3687 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: St. Paul, MN Vehicle: MY99 GF4 JDM 6spd NF Performance	I could put together some 600whp car and just baby it is whole life and get 200k miles.

05-15-2013, 03:47 PM	#16
reemwrb04sti Scooby Newbie Member#: 254796 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: boogie down bronx Vehicle: 04 Sti	I wouldn't build the motor..30r kit rotated or stock location...fuel injectors full exhaust,intake,fuel pump and cobb AP...if you pull the motor most I will do is drop in pistons and that will last a long time tuned well with regular maintenance of course...bigger tmic would work or you can go fmic...keep it simple ! Just my .02 cents

05-15-2013, 05:45 PM	#17
Irv Weissmanhowerton Scooby Specialist Member#: 278519 Join Date: Apr 2011 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: Area P, Alliance Fab Vehicle: KBiz KeeganLB 30rSTI phatron tuned	yep, I agree with what eisenberg said and the few others

05-15-2013, 07:03 PM	#18
MMY MSL Scooby Newbie Member#: 335135 Join Date: Oct 2012 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: PDX Vehicle: 2002 Forester S Blue Ridge Pearl	Seems like a lot of people are recommending meth or motor builds, GTX turbos and rotated kits...which aren't really necessary. The bare minimum is: Stock location 30r or comparable (1000 used/1700 new) Oil lines ($50-100) Fuel system upgrades: pump, injectors, etc (400 USED/700 NEW) Accessport ($400/600) Dyno tune ($200/500) Stray gaskets, fluids, etc ($100) There are a lot of other upgrades (exhaust & intake, meth, cams, forged internals, gauges, rotated kit, coatings, etc) that will let you maximize your power output and reliability, but that's the most basic way I can think to install a 30r or comparable turbo. Asking such open questions tends to lead me to believe you don't entirely know what you want though... other than you want to modify your Subaru. Are you DDing it? Draggin it? AutoXing it? A basic 30r may be overkill for some goals, or underkill depending entirely on what those goals are. My thoughts are to drive it a bit, find a reputable tuner to bounce ideas off of. Then determine what your goals are for the use of the car and purchase mods accordingly.

05-18-2013, 05:20 PM	#19
Scuby04STi Scooby Newbie Member#: 328635 Join Date: Aug 2012 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Portland* Vehicle: 2004 STi Rally Blue	Im with MMY MSL on this one, I just finished a GTX30R build and had a very specific way I wanted the power delivered as well as a need for minimizing the powerloss through the next "weakest link" in the system. So i changed just about everything. If your goal is a 400+whp set up that pulls till 8k I can lay out all the parts for you, I assume your goals are a bit more mild seeing how you worded things. If you can pin down exactly how you want your car to act then it becomes extreemly easy to figure out what it will take you to get there.