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Old 05-14-2013, 10:15 PM   #1
sti0087
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Default 2011 Sti Gt30r

What upgrades do I need in my ST I before I run this Turbo?? I know I need front mount with rotate down pipe?? Tune ...help
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:31 PM   #2
207STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sti0087 View Post
What upgrades do I need in my ST I before I run this Turbo?? I know I need front mount with rotate down pipe?? Tune ...help
You need to spend more time reading and understanding, it seems like you have spent very little time researching what could turn out to be a 5k plus investment. Also there are many people running larger turbos than a 30r on a TMIC. Just spend about an hour a day researching and developing your build for the next couple weeks and go from there.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:32 PM   #3
Shortpersonbk
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Built motor, injectors, fmic, new intake for the fmic, rotated kit (upipe, downpipe), new clutch, gauges such as A/F, boost

--
chances are your in over your head and if you half ass it you will end up with a broken sti that will never be fixed right
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:38 PM   #4
sti0087
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I know Im in for a long work in prgress..just building my subaru with a plan. I really wana do it the right way just curious what the car can handle with stock trani and internals.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:53 PM   #5
wrxsubiemod
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About 320ish whp till the pistons crack
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:57 PM   #6
Shortpersonbk
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IF that, Im scared on factory internals on factory turbo i know many people that have blown them on the new STIs, my dads just waiting for it to blow up and hes only at 25k miles on his 2012. The trans is golden till over 600whp if not higher EASY as long as you can drive, you WILL need a new clutch even stg 2 starts to burn it up pretty good after a couple k miles. DO NOT just toss this **** together unless you have another DD and this is just your weekend project car.
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:54 PM   #7
shawns_sick_STi
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I ran 380whp with a 30r and alcohol on my stock engine for years. Only reason it went out, was I ran it low on oil and spun #4 rod. But in reality it will cost close to 10k to do a proper 30r set up if you have a shop install the parts and tune it. Pretty much all systems need upgrading. Not counting a built bottom end(because if you tune it right and don't drive like Vin Diesel it will last), you need to address the clutch, entire fuel system, entire intake system, intercooler, entire exhaust system, throw in some tgv deletes, and a water/meth kit.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:29 AM   #8
Eisenbergs blue boo
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You could keep it simple as I did first. Lasted for years and plenty of miles with decent power and 10-15 times on 110 or c16 fuel maxing out the turbo

Easiest way
30r rotated kit which comes with the downpipe, uppipe, intake, Watergate, turbo and all fittings, lines for the turbo, Fmic with piping and bov
You need injectors, fuel pump, and an accessport or some kind of way to tune it. Tactrix cable on open source, romraider is alot cheaper as all you have to buy is a 150 cord

That is all, no built motor, Trans, clutch, intake manifold, or header, rails for or anything like that is absolutely nessacary

Last edited by Eisenbergs blue boo; 05-15-2013 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
slowgenius
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^^^+1
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2497782

Give mike from innovative a call. Have him build and tune your car. Obviously the stock short block can make power. A mild build and an awesome tune will help keep it reliable.

To prove its not a fluke:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2499782
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:41 AM   #10
wrxsubiemod
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I would recommend pistons. For any turbo bigger than stock. Sure we have people making power on stock blocks but this is the weak link.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:12 AM   #11
Eisenbergs blue boo
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If he pulls that motor out early. It's a big waste of how long it would have lasted. All these mods I mentioned are a pretty easy install. Motor will double his bill very easily. And it's not a fluke if it lasts. Long as it's in good condition before this upgrade. And tuned and treated decent. It will last as a fun dd with power. Not race car treatment. But for most of us dd is all we require

I've personally known at least 5 Sti that have similar stories
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:40 AM   #12
FuJi K
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Don't be surprised when your piston dies.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:38 PM   #13
shawns_sick_STi
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Ringland failure is not an inevitable outcome of making HP from a Subaru. With proper tuning and water/meth for a safety margin it can and will last. Also if you can keep in mind that just because you have 350+whp doesn't mean you need to use it every mile the car drives. You can have a long fun life out of the factory engine. My stock engine lasted 70k miles running over 19psi and the last 40k was 350-380whp at 24psi and the rings never failed. I had been running it hard because my friend had just got his wagon up and running and I wasn't checking my oil.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:52 PM   #14
SplatWRX
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Easiest way without going FMIC
ATP3076GTX stock location turbo.
30mm turbo inlet.
Fuel pump
ID1000 injectors
Tune.

Proper way..
See what everybody else above posted.
Me?
If I was going to do it all again?

Id have to think about it some more.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:55 PM   #15
FuJi K
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I could put together some 600whp car and just baby it is whole life and get 200k miles.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:47 PM   #16
reemwrb04sti
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I wouldn't build the motor..30r kit rotated or stock location...fuel injectors full exhaust,intake,fuel pump and cobb AP...if you pull the motor most I will do is drop in pistons and that will last a long time tuned well with regular maintenance of course...bigger tmic would work or you can go fmic...keep it simple ! Just my .02 cents
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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yep, I agree with what eisenberg said and the few others
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:03 PM   #18
MMY MSL
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Seems like a lot of people are recommending meth or motor builds, GTX turbos and rotated kits...which aren't really necessary.

The bare minimum is:
Stock location 30r or comparable (1000 used/1700 new)
Oil lines ($50-100)
Fuel system upgrades: pump, injectors, etc (400 USED/700 NEW)
Accessport ($400/600)
Dyno tune ($200/500)
Stray gaskets, fluids, etc ($100)

There are a lot of other upgrades (exhaust & intake, meth, cams, forged internals, gauges, rotated kit, coatings, etc) that will let you maximize your power output and reliability, but that's the most basic way I can think to install a 30r or comparable turbo.

Asking such open questions tends to lead me to believe you don't entirely know what you want though... other than you want to modify your Subaru. Are you DDing it? Draggin it? AutoXing it? A basic 30r may be overkill for some goals, or underkill depending entirely on what those goals are.

My thoughts are to drive it a bit, find a reputable tuner to bounce ideas off of. Then determine what your goals are for the use of the car and purchase mods accordingly.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:20 PM   #19
Scuby04STi
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Im with MMY MSL on this one, I just finished a GTX30R build and had a very specific way I wanted the power delivered as well as a need for minimizing the powerloss through the next "weakest link" in the system. So i changed just about everything.

If your goal is a 400+whp set up that pulls till 8k I can lay out all the parts for you, I assume your goals are a bit more mild seeing how you worded things. If you can pin down exactly how you want your car to act then it becomes extreemly easy to figure out what it will take you to get there.
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