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Old 02-23-2013, 01:02 PM   #1
axelthrasher
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Default Chase Bays ABS Delete and Brake Booster Delete

I am curious if anyone has used either product from Chase Bays... There is most certainly some appeal for me... I for sure want the ABS delete, as it comes with a proportioning valve. (This would be used for my dedicated racecar)

The only thing I am unsure of is if I would want to try the brake booster delete or not... I don't imagine the brake pedal would feel all too nice if it were deleted...

http://www.chasebays.com/product/sub...-subaru-wrxsti

http://www.chasebays.com/product/sub...ter-eliminator

Let me know if anyone has deleted their brake booster and how it felt under braking.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:33 PM   #2
paulpat
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Some of the old timers liked these kind of mods. I don't know why. It has to do with pedal feel and I think your preference of pedal feel. They grew up where u did all the braking with ur legs and no hydraulics. So some guys went from the wrx two stage booster to the one stage booster. I believe there is a write up on northursula's site about this that can lead some insight. Sorry if I misspelled the name.
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:08 PM   #3
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do you LFB a lot? then you might have some use out of it, otherwise keep your booster and do supporting mods to stiffen your pedal up

if you still want it, check this place for high quality rally-proved BB delete that works with stock master cylinder
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:56 PM   #4
axelthrasher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
do you LFB a lot? then you might have some use out of it, otherwise keep your booster and do supporting mods to stiffen your pedal up

if you still want it, check this place for high quality rally-proved BB delete that works with stock master cylinder
But why not replace the the master cylinder/reservoir for just a little more? Plus, that will also free up more room in the engine bay by mounting the master cylinder directly to the firewally...
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:20 PM   #5
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I ditched my booster last season, but retained the 1 1/16 master cylinder. My pedal is like a friggin rock and hard to modulate. For my personal tastes, downsizing to the older 13/16 cylinder would be great, if I can find one. I've bought 3 that were supposed to be 13/16 but have 15/16 cast into the body. Still a 1/8 reduction in piston diameter and I retain the OEM fittings. Line routing needs to be changed without the booster on the firewall, so it's a rather involved modification.

Jay
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #6
axelthrasher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
I ditched my booster last season, but retained the 1 1/16 master cylinder. My pedal is like a friggin rock and hard to modulate. For my personal tastes, downsizing to the older 13/16 cylinder would be great, if I can find one. I've bought 3 that were supposed to be 13/16 but have 15/16 cast into the body. Still a 1/8 reduction in piston diameter and I retain the OEM fittings. Line routing needs to be changed without the booster on the firewall, so it's a rather involved modification.

Jay
If you took a look at the above links, the master cylinder is replaced with a 7/8" Willwood, and the other link is an ABS delete relocation kit. So basically, makes much less custom work and almost literally plug and play... I'm just not sure if the 7/8" M.C. would give a rock hard pedal feel...
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:36 PM   #7
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Anyone else have any info on this???
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:30 AM   #8
Layvon
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Bump. Toying with a purchase of the bay delete.

Also think that their PS Stuff is good looking. They seem expensive though.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:14 AM   #9
Teddy7
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literally just read something on rx7club about the same parts. I don't think I'd do it on my street car, but it sure would clean up the engine bay a bit...
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:57 AM   #10
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I am working on an ABS delete that is cleaner, and cheaper than what they offer... if you can wait I will do a full write-up on it with part #s and costs.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:43 AM   #11
05subysti
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Bump for updates and write up, will be doing this when I do tubs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:26 AM   #12
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I just did this, not the chase bays but a custom one. Went with 7/8 master and changed the pedal ratio to ~7.3:1, and it does take some time getting use to but it feels just soo much better to have your foot more connected to the brakes. On chase bays site it has a pdf of the plates dimensions and when I measured it was a little different, theirs might work but I just ended up making my own. Without the brake booster, abs brick and with way less lines I probably saved 20lbs too.
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:48 PM   #13
Layvon
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Which one did you go with? Shot you a PM. I just took out all the lines and ABS Module. What about proportioning valve?

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:40 PM   #14
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Bump !
So did anyone end up using the chase bay set up?
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulpat View Post
They grew up where u did all the braking with ur legs and no hydraulics.
They were on the Flintstones?
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:06 PM   #16
axelthrasher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sue's roo's View Post
Bump !
So did anyone end up using the chase bay set up?
Nope, I piece parted everything - I just forgot to do a documented write up on it... maybe I'll get around to it one day...
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Old 11-15-2013, 02:50 PM   #17
elbertmurphy
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If I do the booster delete kit would I retain ABS? I know the other kit deletes ABS but I daily my car so ABS is necessary. Off topic, I did the Chase Bays power steering kit and it's awesome. I defiantly recommend it!
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:08 PM   #18
alexandern05
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hmmmm i might do the abs delete does anyone have a write up and parts and how to or is it best to just buy the kit
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:02 AM   #19
03WRXer
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Default I had a bad experience. Don't buy from Chase Bays!

Hey to bring this back to life....

Anyone do a write up on the ABS delete, and or brake booster delete? I removed all the abs and engine compartment hardlines while I had the engine out for an engine swap and to paint the engine compartment.

I broke down and purchased chase bays brake line relocation kit with the interior lines so I could mount the proportional valve close by, to adjust while driving.

After paying around $550 I waited patiently for it to arrive, with my car in pieces. They told me it shipped on 3 different occasions. As the days passed I started looking into just building this myself. After 14 days they still hadn't even shipped it yet! Two weeks?! For an item I was told would ship in about 2 days?!

I canceled the order. I am very disappointed in Chase Bay's and would suggest no one purchases from these guys.

I have ordered all the parts and tools from Summit to build this kit myself for $250. And this includes the special tools, and extra brake line material.

I am interested if anyone has built their own ABS delete. How much it cost, and what parts you used? I may do a post on this build if I have the motivation. As crappy as the Subaru ABS is, I'm surprised no one has started a sticky on this stuff....

Don't buy from Chase Bays! (IMHO)
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:32 AM   #20
calebtharrell
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Here is a copy and paste from D Money with a few other posts on the bottom.
I haven't done the delete personally but have done a lot of research.

Hope this helps!

ABS Delete

Brake line: (polished stainless steel line)
• 6ft straight polished ss 3/16” brake line (4)

Fittings: (Assortment of Earl’s fittings)
• -3an (4)M10x1.0 592032
• 3/8-24 (3)-3an 581531
• 1/8npt (2) 961603-3an
• -3an SS tee (1) 824-3j
• -3an SS union (1) 815-3j
• Tube sleeve (qty. 2) (7) 581803
• Tube nut (qty. 2) (7) 581903

Brake system components:
• Polished line separators (qty. 3) (1) 167203
• Polished billet clamps (qty. 6) (1) 170203
• Wilwood adjustable brake prop valve (1) 260-11179

***When flaring OEM brake lines do not flare them 37 degree, the steel is to soft. On the Subaru the OEM tube nuts for ABS Pump, Master cylinder, etc are all M10x1 you can reuse them from the old lines if you are making new lines. When using stainless tubing cut the tubing with a high number tooth hack saw in a vice. This is to keep from over heating the cut and work hardening the end. With the stainless when you work harden it, you make it very hard to double flare it. I would use a hydraulic flare tool or the Eastwood tool to do inverted flares. Most others say not to use with SS. Also your 3/16 tube will be equivalent to -3an with brakes I always use steel everything, Tube nuts, sleeve, bulkhead everything is steel or stainless. NO reason to use Aluminum because everything you need in a brake setup is made in steel. You can even make your own braided stainless lines for clutch, and brake right at home with a few hand tools, but thats another class. LOL

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...223122&page=35

D, why did you use adapters all over the place? you could have went directly into everything with the right flare and tube nut, seems you added one more place to have a leak on every joint.

Yes our cars use inverted flare not bubble flare, looks like you guys have figured that out.

The tube nuts subaru uses are m10x1.0 and you can even do a banjo to 3an for the tight spaces if you have to run 3an all over the place.
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:08 PM   #21
03WRXer
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Default

Thx for the info!


Quote:
Originally Posted by calebtharrell View Post
Here is a copy and paste from D Money with a few other posts on the bottom.
I haven't done the delete personally but have done a lot of research.

Hope this helps!

ABS Delete

Brake line: (polished stainless steel line)
• 6ft straight polished ss 3/16” brake line (4)

Fittings: (Assortment of Earl’s fittings)
• -3an (4)M10x1.0 592032
• 3/8-24 (3)-3an 581531
• 1/8npt (2) 961603-3an
• -3an SS tee (1) 824-3j
• -3an SS union (1) 815-3j
• Tube sleeve (qty. 2) (7) 581803
• Tube nut (qty. 2) (7) 581903

Brake system components:
• Polished line separators (qty. 3) (1) 167203
• Polished billet clamps (qty. 6) (1) 170203
• Wilwood adjustable brake prop valve (1) 260-11179

***When flaring OEM brake lines do not flare them 37 degree, the steel is to soft. On the Subaru the OEM tube nuts for ABS Pump, Master cylinder, etc are all M10x1 you can reuse them from the old lines if you are making new lines. When using stainless tubing cut the tubing with a high number tooth hack saw in a vice. This is to keep from over heating the cut and work hardening the end. With the stainless when you work harden it, you make it very hard to double flare it. I would use a hydraulic flare tool or the Eastwood tool to do inverted flares. Most others say not to use with SS. Also your 3/16 tube will be equivalent to -3an with brakes I always use steel everything, Tube nuts, sleeve, bulkhead everything is steel or stainless. NO reason to use Aluminum because everything you need in a brake setup is made in steel. You can even make your own braided stainless lines for clutch, and brake right at home with a few hand tools, but thats another class. LOL

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...223122&page=35

D, why did you use adapters all over the place? you could have went directly into everything with the right flare and tube nut, seems you added one more place to have a leak on every joint.

Yes our cars use inverted flare not bubble flare, looks like you guys have figured that out.

The tube nuts subaru uses are m10x1.0 and you can even do a banjo to 3an for the tight spaces if you have to run 3an all over the place.
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:10 PM   #22
03WRXer
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Default ej207 EGT readings

Miss post....oops
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