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Old 02-25-2013, 06:11 PM   #1
00camaro16
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Default DIY side vent light up Write-Up

First off I tried posting this last night, it said it needed to be viewed by a mod. But after a day I decided it might not have gotten through since I never had that problem before. If it does show up and this is a repeat, please delete.

Link to my full build: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2467134

Ok, this is my first write up for this site and my first modification to my new wrx. I want to install L.E.D.s in my side vents so they light up when the headlights are on. I have multiple requirements with this install too:
1. I want everything to look like it came from the factory (all the wires hidden and out of the way)
2. I want everything to be taken apart at each panel so if I have to take it off I don’t have to fully re-run the wires.
3. I don’t want to splice into any wires, since depending on your dealer, it has the possibility of voiding the warranty.
4. I want everything to be easily reversible.
5. If I decide that having them on all the time when the headlights are on is too “ricey”, since at the moment I am un-sure if it will look that way, I want to make it easy to connect them to the turn signals instead.

Before



After



To learn how to take off the Side vent it is easiest to just go to youtube and look up the video “10-13 wrx rally armor install” this shows exactly how to do it. It will look like this



Start with running the L.E.D. wires and deciding on which fuse to tap into. I want to have them on when both the bright and the dims are on, this is the fuse I wanted to use, it is the fuse labeled “Hi/Lo (Lo)” 30 amp fuse. I had originally wanted to use an “Add-A-Circuit” and sadly these are only rated to 10 amps, I actually found a story of it catching on fire with 20 Amp supplied so we have 2 options…
1) Just shove the wire into the fuse stop and push the fuse down on top adding an in-line fuse so the circuit is protected.
2) Finding and interior fuse that is 10amps or lower to tap into that is switched, in this case the illumination fuse (also used when installing gauges) works.

After a couple days of thinking about it (had to wait till a Sunday anyways) I opted to go option 1. I think both ways will work and be safe but option 1, in my mind kept it more stock by not having to get the wire from the interior to the exterior.

Next let’s plan on where we are going to run the wires, and where we are going to place the quick disconnects. I decided 1 wire to the driver side fender while running a second all the way around the front right before the radiator under the metal cover to the passenger side. I decided that for two reasons,
1) I think I can hide the wire better then running it under the cowl.
2) When I do the light up emblem the wire will be there to splice into.

Ok, so I ran my driver side wire first starting at the fuse box and ending at the passenger side fender, I left it long and will cut the sire as the last thing I do.





I moved onto the power wire. I used and in-line water proof fuse to protect the circuit. The fuse box has a hole on the bottom so I did not need to create one. I had to shave some rubber off the fuse holder to get it to fit in the spot (note: After it was all said and done, I notice I did no leave enough slack to easily pull the inline fuse out to replace it, I can but its difficult, I suggest giving it some slack). I soldered a bit of wire onto the fuse holder so it would go through the bottom and wrap up. This is the grounding bolt I used and I just ran the wire under the fuse box to meet up the power wire.


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Last edited by 00camaro16; 02-25-2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:11 PM   #2
00camaro16
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Then I ran the passenger side wire around in front of the radiator and down the fender. Here are some pictures of the process.














Now on to the Fender L.E.D.s, I want to place them at an angle which you won’t be able to see them, but far enough back that the light will hopefully be defused enough so that you won’t see “spots” of light on the door panel. I used side emitting LED strips from oznium so that they didnt block any of the vent.



This is where I will try first.



Splice your power wires and grounding wires using the quick disconnects (in my case the stripes came with quick disconnects), twist just for now, then place fender panel back temporarily so you can test the placement of the L.E.D.s. Adjust if needed, if not then solder/shrink tube everything up making sure to keep enough slack in the wires so you can pull the fender and get to the quick disconnects. Repeat on the other side.

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #3
00camaro16
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I also painted the fender badges at the same time.

(Sorry for dirty pics, where I live it is almost useless to wash your this time of year because of the salt... The first day I had it a week ago it looked like this)

Before


After


LIGHTS

Before



After



I will do another write-up on the front emblem light since after reading more into it looks like most people damage the emblem when trying to get it off and I am not ready to buy a $60 badge. I also think it might be easier when I take the bumper off to paint the head lights.

Hope you enjoyed it, Ask all the questions you want. After it was all done the lights were a bit more "blue" then I expected, it wouldn't be hard to switch them if I decided to switch the "cool blue" for the "natural white". I also notice I forgot to take picture of the final product and what you see, I wrapped the wires were visible with that black tubing stuff, it looks much better. I will add those pictures tonight.

Chris

Last edited by 00camaro16; 02-25-2013 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:38 PM   #4
00camaro16
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Here are the pictures of how the wiring ended up. These are pictures of the only parts the wires are visable.

Fuse box


Fuse box closed


Driver side, where the main power and grounds connect to the other wires.


Passenger side


Whole engine bay
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:33 PM   #5
murking
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Total rice, but thank you for at least keeping it professional.

I do however like the idea of them being turn signals.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:47 PM   #6
00camaro16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murking View Post
Total rice, but thank you for at least keeping it professional.

I do however like the idea of them being turn signals.
Yea like i said I'm not sure about it yet. Figured I'd give it a bit. It is much more subtle in person
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:50 PM   #7
Serkan
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rICE.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:55 PM   #8
az_sti_04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murking View Post
Total rice, but thank you for at least keeping it professional.

I do however like the idea of them being turn signals.
+1 agreed
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #9
ImBenDood
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I don't think it's rice... I think the pictures don't do it justice... I imagine it is much more subtle and not as super bright as the camera makes it seem. Would be cool to get the dual LED strips so its white led constant than switches to orange flashing when you hit the turn signal.

+1 on creativity and professional looking install.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:35 PM   #10
WRX-ERROR
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Is that speaker wire?
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:31 PM   #11
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These are pictures of the only parts the wires are visable.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX-ERROR View Post
Is that speaker wire?
thought the same thing myself lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #13
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As turn signals in amber they make sense otherwise regardless of brightness they do nothing for you...
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:44 PM   #14
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These would be awesome turn signals!
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:55 PM   #15
aerosaaber
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Not my thing, but it looks like you did it well.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:06 PM   #16
jinstwrx
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this is as bad as led washer nozzle total ricer
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:12 PM   #17
Turtules
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I can dig it...good job!
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:55 AM   #18
00camaro16
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Da*m, glad I brought my change bucket for all the .02 laying around lol.

But I am going to have a decision about these tonight whether I keep them or leave them. I am leaning much more towards taking them out for a couple reasons.

1) having the wire just shoved into the fuse box is really bothering me even though I don't see it I know its there.
2) I am thinking it is just too flashy for me.
3) Don't think it will go well with future exterior mods.
4) The lights don't match the HID's color so I would have to swap them out any ways.
5) Police attractant.

I could switch them over for turn signals easily if I wanted too since I ran the wires planning for that, but I would have to splice into the wires therefore not complying to my requirements. I also would have to swap them on for amber strips, again easy because I planned it, but another step. So I think I am simply going to take everything out, maybe install the stripes under the cowl connected though a switch to constant power in order to create an under hood light, or connect to dome lights in the hatch area for more light, or just not use them (they're meant to be used to make audi style headlight, but I just don't like that's look unless it came factory).

Chris
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:17 AM   #19
Patrick Olsen
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I've seen another thread where a guy did amber ones for turn signals. Looked great. I think having them on all the time (with the headlights) would look a little strange.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:34 PM   #20
thomasubi
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Looks cool. It would be sick if they were amber turn signals
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:53 AM   #21
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I imagine it is much more subtle and not as super bright as the camera makes it seem.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:44 PM   #22
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I would like to do this on my 13 hatch but need a list of materials, as well as the step by step to include turn signal sync. I want to make sure they all blink at the same time.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:42 PM   #23
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Pretty good write up. I think its all up to the owner if its good taste or not. I personally like it with a switchback effect like what I did to my headlight reflectors here in this thread. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2513902
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:39 PM   #24
Masta Splint
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Nice write up, thx. Looks dam good. I like it!
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #25
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Interesting wiring approach. Nice write up. Subscribed for future reference.
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