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Old 02-28-2013, 04:05 PM   #26
LUMBERZACK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singularity88 View Post
Regular maintenance / fluid changes, change the oil pickup, AOS, 2 core radiator and water wetter in coolant, maybe ceramic coat exhaust manifolds/ up pipe and or wrap them, undercoat/put dielectric grease on electrical connections if you're up north, clear vinyl or plasti-dip to protect paint, good tires... and not drive like an asshat.

People report lower egt's on cylinder 3 when they replace certain exhaust parts. Just my $.02
^+1 I was just going to post a comment like this
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
The best reliability mods you can have:

1. Religiously follow the maintenance schedule listed for your car on subaru.com
2. Do not modify your vehicle
3. Do not drive like an assbag
Lmfaooooo...there goes una again with his choice words and premium hilarity
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:43 PM   #28
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Thanks for the input so far guys!
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:40 PM   #29
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I have 175,000 miles on my 06 WRX I bought new in the fall of 06. Not one single problem.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:06 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Turbopit View Post
I have 175,000 miles on my 06 WRX I bought new in the fall of 06. Not one single problem.

I wish I could have your luck. I bought mine at 96k, it blew up at 98k, then it happened again at 107k.

Last edited by blkbugeye; 03-06-2013 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:58 AM   #31
the suicidal eggroll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkbugeye View Post
I wish I could have your luck. I bought mine at 96k, it blew up at 98k, then it happened again at 107k.
Maybe you should take a closer look at:
a) your driving style
b) your maintenance regime
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:37 AM   #32
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I'm still on original clutch. Stock brakes made it to something like 120,000 miles. I've since replaced pads again.

I do a lot of highway miles, which admittedly is pne of ht eniggest factors. I also bought this car to be the car I wasn't messing with or driving like an asshat in. I have/had tougher cars for that.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:51 AM   #33
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i have yet to see a stock car go boom

i've already heard a stage 2 go boom for the newest model due to... who knows??

wonder how long it would take anyone till they get annoyed of stock.

start with bolt-ons first would be my first recommendation.

if you dont want the car to go boom dont mess with the ECU
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
i have yet to see a stock car go boom
Happens all the time on the new models, the stock tune is a POS.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Happens all the time on the new models, the stock tune is a POS.
the newer models didnt have this much problems.

yeah the stock tune is a POS anyone could tell you that.

so far for safe mods:

short shifter with bushings
sway bars
any bolt-ons

you want to take the risk:

stage 1 or 2 downpipe w/ or w/o an exhaust and see if your car goes boom even though you do regular maintenance. drive your car like a normal human being. you want to beat on it do it on someone else's dime.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
Maybe you should take a closer look at:
a) your driving style
b) your maintenance regime

As of late my driving style has drastically calmed down, and I kept up with maintenance.( Oil changes every 3k, plugs, etc) Granted I didnt know as much about these cars then as I do now.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:50 AM   #37
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This might be a little different than everyone else is thinking... but I'm going to throw it out there anyways.

Undercoating.

I live in Pittsburgh and all our cars will start having decent rust on them with the salt/slush, etc in about 1-2 winters. After that, it's all downhill. I've lost 2 Subies to rust. My third one was undercoated from the factory it seems... and is holding up great on the portions it's been undercoated.

For example, the front bumper beam was not undercoated (obviously), and has holes now rusting through it. Under the car, anything that's been undercoated is holding up well... which makes me not have to replace things or deal with rusted bolts as much... aka, kind of 'increasing reliability'. Speaking of which, some of the undercoating is coming off and needs reapplied in those areas.

I know you're looking for engine related mods, but depending on your climate, I've seen undercoating really help.
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:45 AM   #38
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^Thats a good point. My sub frame is rusting, and every bolt on the car is rusty but otherwise its rust free. I'm likely going to end up just yanking the engine to do the clutch and TB this summer so I can cut the cancer out of the sub frame and weld in new steel as needed and por15 the whole thing.

But for reliability mods
6 speed with forged gearset
sti diff
nitrided crank, forged rods, forged pistons, inconel exhaust valves, DFL coating on all bearing surfaces (gives you a chancce to save an engine that looses oil pressure).
accusump (again, saves you if you loose oil pressure)
killer bee pan and pickup (reduces the chance of loosing oil pressure)
leave the stock axles and keep spares in the car, rather blow up a cheap axle and replace it in an hour than eat a diff or tranny
knock light with audible warning, heck really bright warning lights for every thing, oil pressure and temp, water temp. Gauges are a diagnostic tool you dont check them in a race until the warning lights come on.
Only use OEM style crimp connectors on all wiring, NO soldering, NO crimp connectors that you can buy at the hardware store

Leaning to tune on your own so if something happens you can bust out the tactrix cable and the laptop and fix everything.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:48 PM   #39
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Whether my goals are 400whp or 1000whp I always OVER build my internals for better insurance that the motor wont fail. Instead of buying internals rated to 500whp and tuning the car within an inch of it's life to 499whp I would buy parts rated at 1000+whp. It gets expensive, but to me its the right way to do it.

My ideal build:

Manley I-beams
JE Billet FSR Pistons
Darton sleeves
Cosworth bearings
stock nitride crank on newer EJ257s have always been sufficient with my street builds.

This is just a very basic list. I would do the same for the heads as well.

But even if you have the best/stronger parts, failure is always a possibility. It depends how well the motor was built and the quality of the tune. Parts mean nothing if everything isn't brought together correctly. BUT, in short, overbuilding is what I feel gives you the best reliability....Or stay stock lol
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:52 PM   #40
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and basic maintenance of course. Change your fluids regularly.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:40 PM   #41
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Funny it went from regular mods to FORGE YOUR ENGINE

total different of cost but always something to consider when rebuidling.

Fmauriwrx and Leafy what are the costs of those just to forge your engine if i may ask
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:43 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post
Funny it went from regular mods to FORGE YOUR ENGINE

total different of cost but always something to consider when rebuidling.

Fmauriwrx and Leafy what are the costs of those just to forge your engine if i may ask
My motor build was about 12k. It's all about perspective though. If you stay stock, then just do regular maintenance and and don't drive like an animal and you'll be fine. If you want 1000whp, than that calls for much different components for reliability. I had only 450whp but I made sure all my parts were good for up to 1000whp or close to.

Last edited by fmauriwrx; 03-08-2013 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:50 PM   #43
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It looks like he wants to stay around 300whp though, so really no need for internals quite yet. At those power levels reliability will be in the hands of his tuner. The tune is everything.

Things I would do around 300whp for reliability would be:
1. of course reg. maintenance/fluid changes
2. Aftermarket radiator
3. Different fuel rails to get an even amount of fuel to each cylinder. (Doesn't the stock system tend to starve cyl 4 ever so slightly? Correct me if I'm wrong please)
4. Heat wrap your headers, up-pipe, downpipe, turbo blanket etc.
5. A good tune!!
6. Some way to monitor your cars stats ie. AFR gauge, oil pressure gauge, boost gauge, egt gauge, etc. just to be sure your car is running properly.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:26 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMM0N View Post

the newer models didnt have this much problems.

yeah the stock tune is a POS anyone could tell you that.

so far for safe mods:

short shifter with bushings
sway bars
any bolt-ons

you want to take the risk:

stage 1 or 2 downpipe w/ or w/o an exhaust and see if your car goes boom even though you do regular maintenance. drive your car like a normal human being. you want to beat on it do it on someone else's dime.
So you're telling me that a 2013 with "bolt ons" (ie intake/up pipe/down pipe/etc) is more "safe" than "messing with the ecu" when there is fairly objective data on these forums that doing most of these things WITHOUT a tune will **** your **** up?

Not buying what you're selling
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:58 AM   #45
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I have a 06 sti and it is at stage 2 with other random add ons and don't really drive crazy but at same time I work the car hard. I just make sure to keep up on maintenance and its up to 120k with no issues besides a injector wire coming loose (I thought the engine was shot at that point) but just take care of it and that is all you can do not every car is the same and some have issues that others don't. I will say tho a good tune goes a long ways. Especially when you start modifying the car. Also since you are looking for a used car try and find one that is completely stock with one owner, do a compression test before you buy and just look the car over, usually you can tell if the car has been beat to hell and poorly maintained by the way they take care of the rest of the car. Good luck
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:20 AM   #46
blkbugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmauriwrx View Post
It looks like he wants to stay around 300whp though, so really no need for internals quite yet. At those power levels reliability will be in the hands of his tuner. The tune is everything.

Things I would do around 300whp for reliability would be:
1. of course reg. maintenance/fluid changes
2. Aftermarket radiator
3. Different fuel rails to get an even amount of fuel to each cylinder. (Doesn't the stock system tend to starve cyl 4 ever so slightly? Correct me if I'm wrong please)
4. Heat wrap your headers, up-pipe, downpipe, turbo blanket etc.
5. A good tune!!
6. Some way to monitor your cars stats ie. AFR gauge, oil pressure gauge, boost gauge, egt gauge, etc. just to be sure your car is running properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreycarlile911 View Post
I have a 06 sti and it is at stage 2 with other random add ons and don't really drive crazy but at same time I work the car hard. I just make sure to keep up on maintenance and its up to 120k with no issues besides a injector wire coming loose (I thought the engine was shot at that point) but just take care of it and that is all you can do not every car is the same and some have issues that others don't. I will say tho a good tune goes a long ways. Especially when you start modifying the car. Also since you are looking for a used car try and find one that is completely stock with one owner, do a compression test before you buy and just look the car over, usually you can tell if the car has been beat to hell and poorly maintained by the way they take care of the rest of the car. Good luck
Thanks for the input so far guys. I wish I had $10k+ to dump into a vehicle. Maybe one day but for now 300-350whp will be good for me.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:57 AM   #47
jaxscuby
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Tim,

my dd has 242k and 287 whp @ 16 psi on a vf 30 with supporting mods.
second factory clutch @ 132k. my 2.0 wrx.

its doable goal at less than 3k..

reliable comes down to who drives the car and how.
but some of the factory tunes were/are to lean.

they are still cracking ringland..hpyeruratic cast pistons on stock boost.
spun rod bearings due to oil break down.

I never liked buying someone's problem. well except the ones where i know
the previous owner.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:09 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by jaxscuby View Post
Tim,

my dd has 242k and 287 whp @ 16 psi on a vf 30 with supporting mods.
second factory clutch @ 132k. my 2.0 wrx.

its doable goal at less than 3k..

reliable comes down to who drives the car and how.
but some of the factory tunes were/are to lean.

they are still cracking ringland..hpyeruratic cast pistons on stock boost.
spun rod bearings due to oil break down.

I never liked buying someone's problem. well except the ones where i know
the previous owner.
Wow. That's some good mileage you have racked up there. My 03 ran strong until about 165k with Stage 2 then I had to swap a new motor in it.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:26 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by C3hutson View Post
So you're telling me that a 2013 with "bolt ons" (ie intake/up pipe/down pipe/etc) is more "safe" than "messing with the ecu" when there is fairly objective data on these forums that doing most of these things WITHOUT a tune will **** your **** up?

Not buying what you're selling
your not getting what i'm saying and your twisting your own words.

you cant do a bolt on and not tune your car its like holding a lit stick of dynamite in your hand.

if you dont want to to mess with the ECU do bolt on's like:

Bushings, exterior stuff, wheels, coils, sways.

You want to take the risk:

AP/OS and get your car tuned by a reliable tuner

I have yet to see a stock car on this forum or a member post in the gallery a non-tuned car. why would you want to be stock on a forum like this and read goodies all day and not have the itch to tune?
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:14 PM   #50
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You have no idea what a bolt on mod is. Anything that doesn't require fabrication is "bolt-on". That includes everything up to (and beyond) new turbos.

With the exception of a good tune from a reputable tuner, there is no mod that will make your car any more reliable that is worth the money.

Change your fluids and follow the factory maintenance schedule, and don't drive like an *******, and you should have a healthy car for a long time.
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