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Old 03-14-2013, 07:35 PM   #26
Coopsubaru
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At first it was a couple times a month and it got more and more common .. down to couple times a week. It would be running awesome and then all the sudden it would start to idle like crap and shake. I think there is a video if you google valve adjustment on wrx/sti... i took mine to the specialist out here in rocklin, ca. so i dont know from experiance but Paul (FW motorsports) took good care of mine. He also said its pretty common among the wrx/sti's and dont quote me but i think its due to be adjusted around the same time as the timing belt at 105k.

Im not saying thats whats wrong with it just wanted to share my .02 let us know if you figure it out i know its annoying.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:53 PM   #27
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Well they supposedly adjusted everything when they put the engine together, but people make mistakes.... I was thinking more along the lines that if it were something "interal", it would be a constant problem, but I guess that opens up a whole new can of worms. AWESOME!
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:56 PM   #28
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turbo boxer motors got bucket shims for valve clearance, there is possibility that when the shop replace your short block they mess up the buckets order and screw up the clearance, i would suggest pull your valve cover off and check the clearance and go from there

Last edited by mooshu1221; 03-14-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #29
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Yea it was random.. i tried everything else i could to avoid going down the valve lash road but in the end thats what the problem was and i havent had a problem since. that was about 5k miles ago. Doesnt hurt to check though... pop off the valve cover and take a peek.. you will need to ref. the manual to see what the spec is for the sti. I know they have the buckets instead of shims thats on the wrx. The spec should be somewhere between
Inlets 0.15 ~ 0.20mm
Exhausts 0.20 ~ 0.25mm.
But like i said may* double check the manual.

Last edited by Coopsubaru; 03-15-2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:07 AM   #30
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The reason I say that my problems may be just beginning is because the head was trash when I pulled it off. The shop took it upon themselves to have it line honed and "fixed" even though I took them a perfectly fine spare head. I made no mention prior because I figured everyone would jump right to that, and as I said I figured it would be a constant issue if it were something internal.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:10 AM   #31
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Did the shop have any kind of warranty for their work?
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coopsubaru View Post
Did the shop have any kind of warranty for their work?
Don't know, they act like they did and didn't....
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:59 AM   #33
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In order to "adjust" the valves on an Sti engine you have to buy a different sized bucket and that's the adjustment?

I really hate myself right now since I just installed another timing belt. I thought about taking the cams out but was in kind of a hurry to get it back on the road... I just love that! I suppose I could still check the clearance without taking the cams out but it would have been nice to see the cam and journals while I had a chance. I kind of wish I had a micrometer as well.

Btw just in case anyone is using this as a solution...
For an 05 Sti which should be the same as an 04, the specs for valve lash are
.20 +/- .04mm intake
.35 +/- .05mm exhaust

Last edited by WRX_FTW; 03-15-2013 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:56 AM   #34
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I would take it back to that shop and have them check their work and measure the valve clearance while they are at it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:14 AM   #35
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Have you had any more misfire codes?
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:52 AM   #36
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Here is another possibility... The OCV (Oil Control Valve) that feeds oil to the AVCS

The Oil Control Valve (OCV) is responsible for metering oil to the AVCS system that moves the cams around on 2004+ STI's, and all 2006+ 2.5 turbo Subarus. We've seen some weird problems caused by failed or failing oil control valves.

Here is the website. http://www.fastwrx.com/suoemoilcova.html

Do some research on the OCV and you will find people having the same issues as you are explaining.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:54 AM   #37
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I've taken it back twice for this issue and they just basically wanted me to throw money at the avcs system (understandable considering my cel, but I could have done that myself), and they barely even drove my car and said it should be fixed. As I said the issue is that I could drive my car 5 miles and it act up, or 5 million miles until it acts up. I personally replaced the oil control valve with a brand new oem unit and have monitored the avcs system like a hawk, it works fine.

No more misfire codes or cel's for that matter. It ran somewhat crappy on the way TO work yesterday, and fine on the way home.

Last edited by WRX_FTW; 03-15-2013 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:02 PM   #38
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That's the thing with Subaru that's so tough is finding the route cause of the issue. It's not easy..it could be many things. I would still suggest measuring out the valve clearance and going from there. At least that's free if you check it yourself or if the shop does it under warranty for their work if they honor it.
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:23 AM   #39
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I spoke with them today and they said to bring it back and they would diagnose it more and pull the head to inspect it and determine if it is a warranty issue or not. So I guess it's off to the shop when I get some spare time to take it.
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:15 AM   #40
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I would clean your air filter(or replace), use MAF cleaner and clean that very well(remove MAF for this and get the cleaner down in the unit), blow dry with compressed air, then clean the throttle body with the MAF cleaner. I'm assuming it's also an electronic throttle butterfly and probably gummed as mine was and having issues very similar to yours..I have modified stock injectors also. I held the throttle butterfly open with a screwdriver and soaked it all with MAF cleaner, it really did help smooth out throttle response. Also cleared up idle issues i had whlle hot and going through a drive thru, the car really hated life in those situations before, but it's much better now. Good luck!
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Old 03-16-2013, 06:19 AM   #41
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Also consider a new re-tune, not sure if you're still on a break in tune or not, but that should help overall driveability. I have a vacuum/boost guage, and i'm so used to the way the engine acts i can tell if there's ever a boost or vacuum leak just by the guage, just food for thought. One example is hot quickly it goes from vacuum to 0 when i hit the gas, if it's slow i have a boost leak somewhere.. it's pretty much instant.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:51 AM   #42
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Awesome, let us know what they find.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #43
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Interesting.. Mine has been running bipolar for a while now as well. I got the P0011 CEL, and checked for the filters in the banjo bolts and didn't see anything. My engine was replaced at 40k though, and i'm at 120k now.

Changing the oil and filter resolved my P0011 code, but i'm still wondering what's going on. Is your car running rich as well?
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Interesting.. Mine has been running bipolar for a while now as well. I got the P0011 CEL, and checked for the filters in the banjo bolts and didn't see anything. My engine was replaced at 40k though, and i'm at 120k now.

Changing the oil and filter resolved my P0011 code, but i'm still wondering what's going on. Is your car running rich as well?
Yeah it's running rich I assume mostly due to the tune. The oil and filter have been changed 3 times within the 2600 miles the engine has been in the car, obviously with no luck there. How many miles have you been trouble free?

My issue feels like someone is flipping a switch on my engine when it happens. Runs great, then bam, runs like complete ****, then snaps right back out of it. It does it quickly most of the time, like a kid playing with a light switch is the best way I can put it. If I'm trying to go up a hill in 5th or 6th gear at 45-60mph then its as though the "switch" is flipped until the road level is flat again. But my route of travel is identical everyday so its not everytime I go up a hill or anything else.

Last edited by WRX_FTW; 03-18-2013 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #45
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It's been almost 7k since I had that issue, but the random power loss is still in effect. Trying to troubleshoot MAF / o2 sensor issues as a possibility for mine. AFR ends up at 9.8 WOT, so it's no bueno! Mine wasn't like a lightswitch, but like my car woke up on the wrong side of the bed. It would run like a rally car at night, and then in the morning just run like crap. Almost stall when I change gears etc.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:29 PM   #46
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Omg this is so stupid. Cel for p0011 came back again just now at 2846 miles on the new engine. It wasn't necessarily running rough before it threw the code, and literally when the code came up it was running fine. I was in 6th gear going about 45 mph when it came up (slowing from 50mph so little to no throttle). I haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet but planned on it within the next few weeks.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:51 PM   #47
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Silly question, I read though the posts, do you have an electric oil pressure gauge?

If its happening when you let off the throttle and the rpms dip, pressure drops. If the oil pressure isn't enough to retard the avcs its going to throw a cam position code.

Other possibility is the air gap to the cam position sensor on the back of the head. If its too great or the bolt holding the sensor is magnetized (wrong bolt) can cause erratic cam sensor issues.

Simple easy: replace both the cam sensor and bolt with OE new parts. try again.

My thinking however you may have an oil pressure supply issue... causing the avcs not to operate properly if pressure is too low by time it reaches the cam gears..
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:10 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
Silly question, I read though the posts, do you have an electric oil pressure gauge?

If its happening when you let off the throttle and the rpms dip, pressure drops. If the oil pressure isn't enough to retard the avcs its going to throw a cam position code.

Other possibility is the air gap to the cam position sensor on the back of the head. If its too great or the bolt holding the sensor is magnetized (wrong bolt) can cause erratic cam sensor issues.

Simple easy: replace both the cam sensor and bolt with OE new parts. try again.

My thinking however you may have an oil pressure supply issue... causing the avcs not to operate properly if pressure is too low by time it reaches the cam gears..
If it were oil pressure would it not affect both sides? The shop tested the oil pressure and said its higher than normal but is definitely fine... But I'm not sure under what conditions they tested it. I'm using an 08+ oil pump as well if that makes any difference. They installed it so I'm sure it was primed, but from what I've seen priming the oil pump can be somewhat of a pita.

Also, could you elaborate on the "air gap"?
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:20 AM   #49
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Air gap - Is the distance between the end of the cam senor to the camshaft itself.

There have been instances shims are needed if the sensor is too close and cannot pickup enough variation of the cam high and low spots. (Usually happens when the sensor is installed and over tightened.)

You need to get a diagnostic tool and see what the Cam Advance is at idle. If its anything other than 0 degrees constant, likely the Oil Control Valve sticking. If its erratic I'd look at the cam sensor signal and see if its dropping out or overly erratic.


Service manual lists it like this:

CHECK CURRENT DATA.
1) Start the engine and let it idle.
2) Inspect the AVCS operating angle and oil
flow control solenoid valve duty output using
Subaru Select Monitor and general scan tool.
NOTE:
• Subaru Select Monitor
For detailed operation procedure, refer to the
“READ CURRENT DATA FOR ENGINE”. <Ref.
to EN(STI)(diag)-28, Subaru Select Monitor.>
• General scan tool
For detailed operation procedures, refer to the
General Scan Tool Instruction Manual.
[font=Helvetica]

CHECK:
Is the AVCS operating angle more than approx. 0
and the oil flow control solenoid valve duty output more than approx.10%?

IF YES:
Inspect the following items and repair or replace if necessary.
• Oil pipe (clog)
• Oil flow control
solenoid
valve (clog or
contamination
in oil passage,
settling at
spring, stuck at
valve)
• Intake camshaft
(sludge,
damage at
camshaft)
• Timing belt
(timing mark
aligning)


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Old 04-19-2013, 07:57 AM   #50
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Ugh, my car was running like **** again today. I just finished running a cycle of techron fuel system cleaner through since my gas guage was all over the place as of late along with a blinking empty light and reading e right after a fill up. I think that issue is solved at least for now, if not then I get to replace the fuel level sensors.

Anyway, same thing it's been doing randomly, loss of power in higher gears when cruising and trying to go up hill, then almost stalling out when trying to take off from a stop light and almost causing me to get stuck in an intersection with oncoming traffic.

I checked with my ap v2 once again; the cel status (none showing up on dash or in ap as dormant), and the "avcs left"/"avcs right" with the monitor function (both of which remain at 0 at idle). It will be about a month before I can get it into the shop, the turbo on my forester was on its way out so I sent it off for a rebuild.
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