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Old 08-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #1
JimmyOOOOO
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Default 2011 STi: Valentine 1 wired to Map Light

Bye-bye lame curly-cord tht scratches whimpy trim pieces!

Red to Gray and Green to Green. Done!

Wish there was power in there at was connected to the ignition instead of always on, but I guess the first time I kill my bettery I'll remember.
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #2
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Reserved for the pics I know you're gonna ask for
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:26 PM   #3
PARANOID56
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i dont remember what i attached mine to, but its to some wires in the map light area but they were acc on only. been working great for years now
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:45 PM   #4
vinz0r
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You could always splice into the auto-dimming / homelink mirror if you have that. There's an ignition-based line.
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:57 PM   #5
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I've been meaning to do this on my 2011 wrx and just haven't had the time. Rather I'm just too damn lazy to do so.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:22 PM   #6
huynhvx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinz0r View Post
You could always splice into the auto-dimming / homelink mirror if you have that. There's an ignition-based line.
I want to hardwire my V1 to the auto-dimming, homelink mirror on my 2011 WRX also.

Does anyone know the wire chart for the cables coming from the auto-dimming mirror? Looks like there is 4 total: 2 black, one black/white, and a black that is kind of folded around the other 3.

I'm guessing, maybe the b/w is the hot and the wrap around black is the ground? It kind of looks like this image here.

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Old 08-21-2011, 02:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyOOOOO View Post
Bye-bye lame curly-cord tht scratches whimpy trim pieces!

Red to Gray and Green to Green. Done!

Wish there was power in there at was connected to the ignition instead of always on, but I guess the first time I kill my bettery I'll remember.
Use key sense to activate a relay to turn the V1 on....
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #8
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bump for wiring diagram
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:32 PM   #9
huynhvx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huynhvx View Post
I want to hardwire my V1 to the auto-dimming, homelink mirror on my 2011 WRX also.

Does anyone know the wire chart for the cables coming from the auto-dimming mirror? Looks like there is 4 total: 2 black, one black/white, and a black that is kind of folded around the other 3.

I'm guessing, maybe the b/w is the hot and the wrap around black is the ground? It kind of looks like this image here.

I found what the wires are.

The b/w is hot
The middle black is the ground.

I actually went to radio shack and use their blue 3M scotchlok.
I can't find the item on the radioshack site, but this is what it looks like.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...s/3M/804C.html

It was around $5 for a pack of 10.

Last edited by huynhvx; 10-28-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:47 PM   #10
OrbitalEllipses
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I believe those are referred to as vampire taps. I prefer soldering connections, personally.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:11 AM   #11
razrielle
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I hate vampire taps, the most useless thing I have ever used. they're supposed to be a no strip solution, every one Ive used Ive had to strip a bit of wire

Last edited by razrielle; 10-28-2011 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:14 AM   #12
CSVT_2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
I believe those are referred to as vampire taps. I prefer soldering connections, personally.
That they are, and they are the worst way to install equipment.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huynhvx View Post
I found what the wires are.

The b/w is hot
The middle black is the ground.

I actually went to radio shack and use their blue 3M scotchlok.
I can't find the item on the radioshack site, but this is what it looks like.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...s/3M/804C.html

It was around $5 for a pack of 10.
thanks for the info.

i'm planning on using posi-taps...they are the same concept as vampire clips but it is a small pin the pokes through the coating on the wire. I used them when i did this on my last subie. When you take them off there is nothing left showing except a small hole.

Hard to find though...just order them online and be pateint
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:51 AM   #14
huynhvx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby207 View Post
thanks for the info.

i'm planning on using posi-taps...they are the same concept as vampire clips but it is a small pin the pokes through the coating on the wire. I used them when i did this on my last subie. When you take them off there is nothing left showing except a small hole.

Hard to find though...just order them online and be pateint
I didn't realize other people were having problem using the Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors.

This is the first time I've use these wire-tap-in squeeze connectors. A friend of mine recommended them and they work just fine for me. Feed in the cables and squeeze. You have to use a pair of pliers to make sure they have enough squeeze on them. But you also don't want to over-squeeze them.


They are actually only $2.39 for 10. So the price is right.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104093

So the cost of the whole setup for me was next to nothing. Just had to figure out which of the wire from the Homelink was hot and ground and 2 wire tap-in squeeze connectors.

Last edited by huynhvx; 10-28-2011 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:18 PM   #15
CSVT_2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huynhvx View Post
I didn't realize other people were having problem using the Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors.

This is the first time I've use these wire-tap-in squeeze connectors. A friend of mine recommended them and they work just fine for me. Feed in the cables and squeeze. You have to use a pair of pliers to make sure they have enough squeeze on them. But you also don't want to over-squeeze them.


They are actually only $2.39 for 10. So the price is right.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104093

So the cost of the whole setup for me was next to nothing. Just had to figure out which of the wire from the Homelink was hot and ground and 2 wire tap-in squeeze connectors.
I've said it once, and I'll say it again... Just because it's cheap and available, doesn't mean you should use it in an automotive application. Learn how to splice wires together properly... Here are some references...

http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:22 AM   #16
Scooby207
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^ I can respect that. I guess I was going for a shortcut too with the posi- taps but they worked for me perfect and when I got rid of the car it was 2 seconds to uninstall and I didn't have to re-wire the mirror. Again I admit it is a shortcut but for something like the V1... Is it that important to have any more sophisticated of a connecting.. For audio components like we're mentioned in that first reference you posted, it makes more sense to me.

With that said, if you give me a good answer I will probably try to be a real electrician and do some soldering
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:34 PM   #17
Power6
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Yeah T-taps are the worst. I used to like them, because they tap and make an easy connection that is removable vs. the "scotch lock" style taps. All the taps have the same issues but the t-tap kind are the worst.

The posi-lock stuff is better. At least it eliminates the variablity of making and losing connection as it crimps down on the wires that are joined/tapped.

Still you compromise the integrity of any wire with a tap, even if it is a good tap. Also usually the resistance of the tap will be greater than if the wires were soldered. That could be bad depending on how much current you are passing through.

I like to think longer term solutions now, I don't want to have to go back in later to fix something I didn't do right, so I solder and use quality wire and materials. Those things might not matter if you trade your car every couple/few years.
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:49 AM   #18
CSVT_2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby207 View Post
^ I can respect that. I guess I was going for a shortcut too with the posi- taps but they worked for me perfect and when I got rid of the car it was 2 seconds to uninstall and I didn't have to re-wire the mirror. Again I admit it is a shortcut but for something like the V1... Is it that important to have any more sophisticated of a connecting.. For audio components like we're mentioned in that first reference you posted, it makes more sense to me.

With that said, if you give me a good answer I will probably try to be a real electrician and do some soldering
In reality a splice/tap can be done relatively quickly once you're used to it. Not all of them require solder. Solder is a nice insurance that there will be no loose connection. Personally if I was doing it, I'd just do the typical military/western union splice (Whatever you want to call it) and then electrical tape it and a zip tie for tension relief and call it a day. On things like remote starts though, I always solder, that way there is no doubt in my mind on my connections, especially when it comes to MUX (multiplex) and DATA wires. A bad connection on one of those and you'll have problems for sure.

Plus like the other guy stated. If your t-tap fails, then you have to go back a redo it. I believe in the do it right the first time, or don't do it all philosophy.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:03 PM   #19
Zonker92
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A company called Blendmount makes a "Mirrortap" cable that uses thin pins to tap into the Homelink jack on the back of the mirror without damaging any wires or using vampires:

http://store.blendmount.com/mirrorta...fuse-p361.aspx



The pins for the Subaru application look to be about 1.25mm thick. I would guess the hot wire goes to the black-and-white wire socket, and the ground goes to the black (middle) socket. (I would probably hide almost all of the red part with some heat-shrink tubing for a more factory look.)

I think the price ($25) is a bit high ($10 is more like it), and I do see that another company, called Rogue, makes a cheaper one called the "Seamless cord". I don't know if the pins are the correct size for a Subaru.

http://rogueradarmount.com/sample/seamless-cord/



I tried to make my own, but I was not able to strip the RJ11 wires properly and I lacked good pins. I would welcome any advice on how to get the right pins, and strip my wires properly.

Last edited by Zonker92; 11-01-2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:48 PM   #20
dvrmstrng
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what mount are you guys using up that high, suction cups? And for those without the homelink mirror...what are you using?
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:00 PM   #21
Zonker92
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I have the Homelink, but I'm using the V1 suction cups. And I'm eyeballing these:

http://www.blendmount.com/

http://countryjoycrafts.com/Connecto...rDetector.html
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:02 PM   #22
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[double post deleted]
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:08 AM   #23
CSVT_2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zonker92 View Post
I tried to make my own, but I was not able to strip the RJ11 wires properly and I lacked good pins. I would welcome any advice on how to get the right pins, and strip my wires properly.
Use the FIRE!




A soldering iron or lighter usually work wonders on small wires like that. Get the outer layer a little hot then just pull it off, should be pretty easy to do, just don't burn yourself. Then crimp/solder your ends on.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:11 AM   #24
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Thanks! Strangely enough, I tried both a soldering iron and a lighter, but the wire was too delicate for fire and the insulation was too tough for the iron. Today I did find that there are RJ11 stripping tools out there, but it's probably cheaper just to buy the premade cable I listed above.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:36 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zonker92 View Post
Thanks! Strangely enough, I tried both a soldering iron and a lighter, but the wire was too delicate for fire and the insulation was too tough for the iron. Today I did find that there are RJ11 stripping tools out there, but it's probably cheaper just to buy the premade cable I listed above.
Turn your iron up higher then, should be able to melt the outer coating fairly easily, just make a melt on the top and bottom of your wire then pull it off.
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