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Old 03-08-2013, 08:56 PM   #26
booSTin-scoobs
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If you got exhaust and vac leaks that's prob where your system lean code p0171 is coming from
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:05 AM   #27
grimzwrx720
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That's what in guessing so I'm going to repair them first and see what happens
I purchased the sensors cause ill be doing the repairs at my step fathers house and he has a lift
So it would be wise in my eyes to have the sensors with me cause I don't really have time to go to his house frequently.
If I don't need the sensors which I'm sure I do I'll either return them if they will take them back or take a loss and sell em
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:07 AM   #28
grimzwrx720
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So what's up with gaping the plugs what should I look for on my plugs when i pull them
Will i need a certain tool to check this
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:16 AM   #29
booSTin-scoobs
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This is what you should do. Fix the leaks first. Then reset the ecu and drive around for about 40 to 50 miles. Regardless of any codes or not check the spark plugs. Spark plug gap tools are like 99 cents and can be found at any parts store. Keep the sensors but don't open them, as long as the bag inside the box isn't opened they will take em back.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:21 AM   #30
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Also the rear o2 doesn't really do much of anything...tuners don't use them (for the most part) and most ots maps delete any codes for them. However, front o2 (bank 1) does matter. But it only matter to a certain point, meaning...if your going to get a protune then replace it or if you fixing the leaks doesn't solve the p0171 cel then replace it and see if that fixes it. Bank 1 o2 sensor problem = car in limp mode and running like **** and usually adding 25% more fuel bc it thinks your running lean. Rear o2 sensor bad = a cel but that's about it
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:57 PM   #31
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Does feel like there is too much fuel injected cause when I push the down all the way it barely moves and I'll hold it for a good 5 secs and it starts that shaking crap again
Now with gaping the plugs what should I gap them to is there a preferred spec or number I'm just learning about it
What about brand of plugs?
I was reading te stickie about it just wanna know what you guys are using and the outcome
I'm running an Perrin intake and a catback not sure what brand but its 3inch
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:12 PM   #32
booSTin-scoobs
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The car feels like its running rich bc it is. Your car thinks its running lean so it's adding about 25% more fuel. The problem is probably your vac leaks. I use 1 step colder ngk. You don't really need step colder plugs until your adding a good bit of power to the car. I believe it's 1 step colder per 100hp you add. I may be wrong about that one though
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:25 PM   #33
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I see, yea I'm not going to add any power yet or my be ever cause te car had a really nice kick before all of this
I was thinking about getting a AP
What do you think in your opinion
It wasn't a Dailey driver till recently cause my Dailey finally crapped out
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:05 PM   #34
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Why you want a ap if you don't want anymore power?
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:06 PM   #35
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Right now I'm not thinking of power just thinking of getting it to run right
Eventually I'm going to do something
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:58 PM   #36
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Update:
Changed rear o2 and front o2 sensor
Cleared the CEL and drove little over 120 miles and no light so far.
Changing the rear o2 sensor was cake 10 mins tops.
Now changing the front was the worst thing ever. It would not budge at all. I had the car on the lift so I had the best possible leverage. Still wouldn't budge with heating it up, beaker bar, vise grips, I sawed the sensor in half and hammered and small socket on and it just stripped this was killing me 2 hrs and nothing. So I took a break and looked on Craigslist in my area and found someod selling the whole system from driver to passenger side for only $100. Bought it and took the part needed and replaced it and was on my way to victory. Finally changed after 4 hours for a stupid sensor. Hated that crap never again.
Wanted to change plugs but didn't want to get into that. Will do next Sunday.
Changed oil
Mobil 1 0w40
Subaru filter
The car does driver smoother and honestly doesn't feel so rough.
The violent shaking did happen today when down shifting from fifth to fourth and when stepped on the gas at 3500rpm it did that shaking crap again had no power and when it reached 4000rpm it stopped and boost really kicked in and the car smoothed out.
I'm guessing maybe like you guys said change the spark plugs. Hopefully that's it.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #37
EVAN&MONICA
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Default resolution?

Did you ever resolve the issue?

I'm getting the same hesitation and jerkyness on acceleration in my 01 RS coupe. I think it's the maf sensor. I'm going to try to clean it tomorrow

Evan
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:09 PM   #38
WrxWrb
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I had the same jerkyness on light boost. Thought at first it was a tuning issue but as it turned out there was a laundry list of small issues that became one huge annoying two year battle. Here's a list of all the small things to check and or do before spending loads of money just throwing ideas at the car.

1. Check plugs. I ended going iridium 1 step colder and it helped. While doing plugs DO NOT put dielectric grease on the plugs or connectors. It makes things worse. Trust me. Also use maf sensor cleaner on the springs inside the coil packs in case they are dirty.
2. Clean maf sensor with MAF cleaner and nothing else. Get new MAF O Ring. 32mm O.D 28MM I.D by 2MM. Tiny amount of dielectric grease on O ring will help it slide into place and seal.
3. Clean and check all ground points on car. Use all new bolts and star washers. A Dremel tool works awesome to sand the ground points to bare metal. Again a very tiny amount of dielectric grease will help prevent oxidation.
4. Take car to a proper shop and get a smoke test done. This will show any leaks you may have very easily. Mine was PCV hose.
5. Check coolant level. Sounds dumb but if there is any air in the system dur to low coolant level in can really throw things off big time !

Go over vehicle with a fine tooth comb. If there is a hose that's not clamped either zip tie or clamp it down. My car ran like garbage for 2 years and never threw a CEL. My issues were not easily seen in logs either.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:56 PM   #39
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrxWrb View Post
I had the same jerkyness on light boost. Thought at first it was a tuning issue but as it turned out there was a laundry list of small issues that became one huge annoying two year battle. Here's a list of all the small things to check and or do before spending loads of money just throwing ideas at the car.

1. Check plugs. I ended going iridium 1 step colder and it helped. While doing plugs DO NOT put dielectric grease on the plugs or connectors. It makes things worse. Trust me. Also use maf sensor cleaner on the springs inside the coil packs in case they are dirty.
2. Clean maf sensor with MAF cleaner and nothing else. Get new MAF O Ring. 32mm O.D 28MM I.D by 2MM. Tiny amount of dielectric grease on O ring will help it slide into place and seal.
3. Clean and check all ground points on car. Use all new bolts and star washers. A Dremel tool works awesome to sand the ground points to bare metal. Again a very tiny amount of dielectric grease will help prevent oxidation.
4. Take car to a proper shop and get a smoke test done. This will show any leaks you may have very easily. Mine was PCV hose.
5. Check coolant level. Sounds dumb but if there is any air in the system dur to low coolant level in can really throw things off big time !

Go over vehicle with a fine tooth comb. If there is a hose that's not clamped either zip tie or clamp it down. My car ran like garbage for 2 years and never threw a CEL. My issues were not easily seen in logs either.
you smoke tested it through the intake to find the PCV hose leaking?
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:38 AM   #40
WrxWrb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
you smoke tested it through the intake to find the PCV hose leaking?
Thats correct.
The connection that goes from the intake to the sort of y shaped plastic piece then splits off to the pcv valve. The leak was at the hose coming off the pcv.
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