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Old 01-20-2016, 12:03 PM   #1
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default Delphi's 2011 WRX Build - STI Swap and Fighting the Canadian Peso

Well I figured I should start logging my build since I am kind of going balls to the wall "I am fracking deep into this **** now" build. And who knows maybe other would like to see what I am doing.


So info on the car

Engine:
- Catless FMS Downpipe (don't buy it, I got it for 100 dollars and it fit like fat man in an airplane seat) Grimmspeed Downpipe now
- CNT Catback (fitment was great actually, I was quite surprised)
- AEM Cold Air Intake
- FMS Top Mount Intercooler
- DW65c fuel pump
- ID 1000cc Injectors
- Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS
- Custom AOS Grimmspeed Style IAG AOS
- Custom Lightweight Crank Pulley
- Cobb Double Adjustable Short Shifter Stock STI Shifter
- Cobb shifter bushings front and rear
- Cobb Accessport V3, Torqued Performance Custom Tune
- Steamspeed STX67


Interior:
- SMY Cluster
- AEM UEGO Wideband
- AEM Boost Gauge

Suspension:
- Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar

And this is what I hope to have planed.

Engine (built by me not a shop): - So much of this Has Changed

Reusing my current block
Reusing my current Crank
Manley 99.75mm Pistons
Manley H "Tuff" rods
King Bearings
ARP Head Studs
Going to bowl blend my D25 Heads
GSC Intake and exhaust valves
Felpro MLS
KillerB Oil Pickup and Oil Baffle
Some sort of Equal Length Header
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors
TGV deletes
Some sort of Front Mount


Driveline:

STI 6 speed transmission swap
Some flavour of Clutch
Stock STI Flywheel


So this is what the car looked like when I parked it in the garage last month. Was burning oil, compression was surprisingly even at 125 psi on all 4 cylinders but I knew something was wrong as the amount of oil I was burning was getting quite bad. I figured I had just worn the engine out and It has 107k km on it and had a downpipe on it since 10k km. I did it in really good when I pulled it apart.



I quickly dove into it, these cars are pretty quick work for me as I have pulled these motors over a dozen times on various subarus and all the engine bays with the EJ platform are basically the same with locations for mounts and what not. Only took me 2 hrs just putsing along listening to music and texting.



Oh and I really needed a new clutch seeing as this was stock and I had an upgraded turbo...

Also damn... Never had that happen and this is the newest Subaru I have worked on...


So I kind of got to into it and forgot to take a bunch of pictures but I found my problem. One thing this is with almost zero cleaning of the piston. I literally washed the oil off with some dawn dish soap. This is what good maintenance looks like!


So I was going to build the engine anyways but still sucked. There was no detonation marks on the piston tops, spark plugs, valves on head quench area. I am going to chalk this failure up unlucky or tight ring gap, drove it too hard or something along those lines. Rarely saw knock and I monitored it all the time. Most would be -1.4
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Last edited by Delphi; 01-20-2016 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:04 PM   #2
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

But moving on from that I did a big thing... Also I don't own a truck but it fit in my trunk of my Impreza! It is an STI 6 speed with 10k kms on it from a 2013 STI. It is a direct swap for my car and will go in with no issue. I just need the clutch, flywheel, and a DCCD Controller for the center differential.





So I got the rest of the motor cracked apart. Crank was mint, the main bearings actually look brand new. The rod bearings wear is meh. I would guess that the bearing clearance was just too tight for the power I was running. The compression side of the bearing is just wearing through the protective coating while the other side looks brand new as well. This right here shows that putting a good oil that fits to how you drive (oil weight wise) will go a long way. I beat the **** out of this car the day I took it off the lot with 7km on it. I did a hard break in and it treated me very well with cross country treks all the way through the desert of Arizona, Nevada, and Central Valley California.

Main Bearing


Rod Bearing

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Old 01-20-2016, 12:06 PM   #3
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

Got the drive train swap complete. Literally just need my custom ordered shift knob and shift boot. I also got a sub panel put in my garage as well! So starting with that.




After that was done I could use my new air compressor I got for Christmas. Having an air impact really made short work of stuff. I pulled the exhaust out in no time and then was able to get at the drive shaft. After that it was tackling the transmission.








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Old 01-20-2016, 12:07 PM   #4
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

So a few things for people who were wondering what is needed for this swap for 11-14 wrx's.

08-14 STI transmission with fork, cylinder, shift linkage
08-14 R180 OR R160 with 3.54 Final Drive
08-14 STI Drive shaft, If using R160 08-14 Automatic Impreza driveshaft
STI starter
STI Flywheel and Clutch
08-14 STI rear axles if using R180

You should probably get a MapDCCD or a DCCDPro. You can run open but if you spin all the power will either go to the front or back.

The front axles from the 5 speed will be reused. You cannot use the STI ones as they will fit but the splined are too long and will stick to far out on the hub. I found this out during the swap. For the rear the axles fit in the hubs and are a perfect length. So woot you get the beefier sti axles in the rear where the torque is most biased too.

If you have a 08-10 WRX most of this will work but you will have to get Legacy Spec B axles for the rear because they're narrow body and the rear suspension is pushed out further on the 11-14 WRX's.

So a good cost alternative is get an R160 with a 3.54 Gear ratio and an AT 08+ Impreza drive shaft and put that in your Narrow Body WRX and you can use your stock axles.



Also for those that bought shifter bushings for a 5 sp I have some pictures of what I did for front bushings if you don't want to buy new ones. The rear stay bushing is the same for both 6 SP and 5 SP.

So now it is time to see if I could make my 5 speed transmission short shifter bushings to work with the 6 speed front linkage. I pushed out the factory bushing. The pin beside the bushing is one I was going to use.



I found some sort of pin I had laying around from other vehicles and it fit the 6 speed bolt perfectly so it was looking good for me to make this work.

Next step I needed to turn down the 5 speed bushings evenly so that I could press them into the 6 speed linkage. I came up with this haggard idea and pressed it against my bench grinder so it would spin evenly and leave a decent round bushing.



Next steps were drill and cut. This pin was from so sort of hardened steel. Not safe for a hack saw. Used my dremel and a cutoff wheel to shorten it.


Like a glove. Cost saving because new bushings are 45 USD! So about 1000 Canadian Peso's
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #5
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

Looks like its ready to go in. Had my friend help me put in the trans because it would have been a nightmare by myself. Look at that size difference!




[img]http://i.imgur.com/bjCejcol.jpg[img]

The next day I got the old R160 diff out and the bigger R180 diff in. By myself. It was brutal.


Worst part... And bad pictures.


Finishing touches, clutch cylinder, oil and the rest of the shifter stuff inside.


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Old 01-20-2016, 12:10 PM   #6
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

This is where I am at today.

Manley Pistons


ARP Headstuds

A Pitch Stop Mount made in Canada. Supporting local business where I can.




So that leaves me needing the following still.

Flywheel
Head Gasket Kit
Timing Belt Kit

Rods
Main Bearings
Clutch
Equal Length Header
DCCD Controller
Also an oil pickup.


As for the Clutch has anyone here used Bully Clutches? They're made in Ontario so I wouldn't mind going with them.
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:53 PM   #7
Ringa
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 391456
Join Date: May 2014
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Toledo, OH
Vehicle:
2014 wrx sedan
wrb

Default

Good stuff. Pretty much the path I plan on going down once I wear the stock block out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
So I got the rest of the motor cracked apart. Crank was mint, the main bearings actually look brand new. The rod bearings wear is meh. I would guess that the bearing clearance was just too tight for the power I was running. The compression side of the bearing is just wearing through the protective coating while the other side looks brand new as well. This right here shows that putting a good oil that fits to how you drive (oil weight wise) will go a long way. I beat the **** out of this car the day I took it off the lot with 7km on it. I did a hard break in and it treated me very well with cross country treks all the way through the desert of Arizona, Nevada, and Central Valley California.
Mind sharing what your maintenance schedule and oil used was?
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:04 PM   #8
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringa View Post
Good stuff. Pretty much the path I plan on going down once I wear the stock block out.

Mind sharing what your maintenance schedule and oil used was?
Thanks!


My oil schedule was every 5000km (3100miles) with Rotella T6 5w-40.
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:21 PM   #9
GJL44
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 248748
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Beltsville, MD
Vehicle:
2011 STi SWP
04 WRB WRX wagon (RIP)

Default

Awesome write up so far. Subbing for moar!
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:43 AM   #10
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

One small update, I got my shift boot from JPM Coachworks. This stuff is extremely high quality, I can see why people love Alcantara and their products. The wife loves when I do car stuff on the counter tops... I actually had her help me put it on though because the fabric was so tight to get on.




I really should break out my DSLR for these pictures. I feel that it would bring a lot better content to this build.
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #11
bluemax189
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 137405
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2011 WRX 6spd
GTX3076r

Default

funny I actually broke the exact same bolt, the top passenger side one from trans to engine.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:20 PM   #12
VA8
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 142070
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: NoVa
Vehicle:
2012 WRX
DGM

Default

Good info and build. Gathering parts for my 6 speed swap now
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:28 AM   #13
Delphi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 239335
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
WRB

Default

Well finally have an update worth sharing. I have been slowly plugging away on this. Made pretty good progress though. Still have to refresh the heads with some GSC valves I have.

I got the short block assembled though.

I got the Block bored at The Block Shop here in Edmonton. They have torque plates which is awesome. Piston to wall clearance specified by me was 2.7 thou to 3.0 thou.

So being that it is a used block STD bearing can sometimes not be enough. My engine had 100k km (60k miles) so I had to so a lot of mix and matching. My crank was used but all the mains were literally bang on 60mm (2.3625" -2.3624) and same goes for the rods being bang on 52mm (2.0472-2.0471)


Main 1 used 2 std bearings - 0.0010"

Main 2 used 1 std & 1 0.026 bearing - 0.0014

Main 3 used 2 0.026 bearings - 0.0014

Main 4 used 2 0.026 bearings - 0.0014

Main 5 (thrust) 2 std bearings - 0.0009

I set my ring end gaps to 0.020 for the top ring and 0.023 for the 2nd ring.






Had to set it aside while I waited to borrow my dads small vice that I like using to hold files while I set ring gaps.






So a couple things. Firstly I finally got my custom ordered Anarchy Motive shift knob. This is well worth the wait as it is literally perfect. It is probably one of my favorite things about the build as odd as it seems. I got the H pattern etched in so it wont wear off from use. Also you can kind of see the JPM Coachworks shift boot in there as well.


For the next bit I am curious if any of you have ran into this problem. When i was installing my Killer B Oil Pickup the one side didn't feel like it was getting snug. I thought I was stretching the bolt actually so I took it out to see the threads condition. They were fine so I inspected the oil pickup to see this. The head of the hex bolt was interfering with the weld and crushing it. I took a small diamond file to clean it up. I know it is minor but I feel like the Hardware should be changed to some Socket Head Cap screws for the smaller head size. The Tigwerks pick up uses them and I can see why. I know it is minor but I would like to bring it to attention so other people can see it if they run into issues.




So all I need now is Clutch, Flywheel, Turbo Inlet, and fluids along with the odds and ends.

Then it is ready to be back in the car. Have to do the heads yet but that's a weekend. job.
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