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Old 03-30-2013, 02:41 PM   #101
Junior2JZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell Power View Post

Dbw has a delay. You have to train yourself to lift before you clutch in.
No training needed, the throttle map is setup to compensate for the driver
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:41 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
On reading more about this it looks like it raises the octane level but slightly lowers the density of the air. Am I correct in this? What tuning changes did you make after installing it, added timing and or more boost?

This is especially intriguing because of the TMIC I am running with the speed density tune. Even if the tune was left as is, the benefits that I see are that it will cool the intake air and the ECU will make less negative timing corrections on higher boost.
Tuning depends on the volume of liquid of course. I started with a traditional pump and nozzle and saw slower spool with what I "felt" was better top end. I leaned it out as that's typical for post intercooler install.

I then moved to the air atomizing nozzle type making it fully mechanical. It's basically like an HVLP gun, using pressurized water on one side of the nozzle and air on the other side to disperse the mixture into a fine mist.
The spool decreased. I have logs of it on and off--spool reduced by both time and RPM. Wet compression increases the efficiency of the compressor slightly, and you get the benefit of detonation resistance from the water as well. It's just more finicky with the amount of injection, placement and water droplet size.

http://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-inj...esults-987107/

I saw the same effect of this user here with the traditional pump and nozzle. I think the reason why these tests show reduced spool is that the progressive nature of the water injection has poor atomization till the high point, and then as the atomization increases, the turbo shaft speed accelerates normally. Spool suffers as the larger droplets slow the rpm of the compressor. You can see the effect of the increased top end with no tuning though. I actually use 50/50 as it helps with atomization--alcohol is less dense and thus helps the atomization and cooling further, but I feel like the increases are all over the curve.

You'll also notice that the post intercooler injection didn't raise power without tuning, but we all know that in the hands of a good tuner, power can go up.

I'm sure that with an Aquamist kit, which has constant pressure at low flow, and thus the same atomization at low and high, you would see similar results to the air atomizing nozzle. I just like that it's mechanical and simple.

For your setup, I would just be worried about nozzle placement, as you want to mount the air atomizing nozzle close the compressor. Wet compression works on a different principles than traditionally mounted water injection. Theoretically wet compression would have the greatest effect on turbos at the edge of the efficiency island, but I would argue that it can help any turbo. I can feel an increase in torque when it kicks on. PM me and I can show you pics of my install. Don't want to ruin your thread.

Last edited by reid-o; 03-30-2013 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:46 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Junior2JZ View Post
No training needed, the throttle map is setup to compensate for the driver
I think it needs more compensation.

Did you see how high the rpms jump up when he clutched in in the video?
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:27 PM   #104
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Now that he has FFS set up, it shouldn't be an issue should it?
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:48 PM   #105
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I did totally forget to set up the LC and FFS after I got back in the XTI from a 2 week leave! We (my buddy Alex and I) were doing the launches at a 6K setting and I have the FFS at 7500.

I did a couple road pulls last night and was more cognoscente of not over revving it.

Jr, you told me to keep it under 7500 but it's hard. Even my bud Alex said my car revs sooo easily it kind of surprised him!

Jr, I want you to tune Alex's STI, he was the guy I was telling you about and after driving my XTI he's like.....sign me up. We'll be in touch!
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:25 PM   #106
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From Xluben's thread:
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
So when are we going to see a 4th gear VD of your car just to see how it behaves on the road vs the dyno?
Happy Easter everyone
I have my car in Detroit right now waiting for the snow to recede up north before I take it back home. I just don't feel very comfortable around here to get it up near red line in 4th gear, 7500 is close to 135 and 8k is 140+ with my gearing/ tires. 120 is no problem, we'll see maybe. It's not a huge priority for me right now.

We'll be working refining the driveline a bit and swapping in my Feal refreshed Ohlins with some tweaks on the front suspension bits and alignment. Also working on the launch, it's feeling pretty good and hooks up very well with my big Conti's which aren't very sticky.

I did find an issue that I think was caused from my battery going dead while I was away from the car for 2 weeks. When I made those video clips the other night, I was not at full power. I re-set the ECU and voila full power back, after that we were working on the launches and that video on Friday. I ran a couple logs running through gears from a 20-30 roll and from the not so accurate AP elapsed time 50-100 looks like around 4+ seconds. Take that with a grain of salt because I don't think the time is accurate!

Last edited by manitou; 04-02-2013 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:30 AM   #107
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Dude, I finally got a chance to check out your thread on a computer that displays pictures. This ride is clean and delivers the goods. I'm really digging that exhaust and intake setup. Excellent excecution and results.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:39 AM   #108
manitou
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Thanks Kelly! I like it too! It sure is fun to drive and it's been on E85 for 3 weeks now. I'll be swapping back to the pump gas map in a day or so and taking her on a working road trip this weekend. Is MPS building your new motor now and when will it be done?
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:01 AM   #109
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I sent Dom my old block for him to begine sleeving. When that's done I'll be sending him everything else need to assemble the longblock. I'm in no hurry though, my current motor is entertaining enough right now but I think I may be having tranny or front diff issues.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:19 AM   #110
manitou
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Bummer on the tranny diff stuff, what's going on?
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:04 PM   #111
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LOVE this car!!!
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:18 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Bummer on the tranny diff stuff, what's going on?

I've always suspected something ever since I got the car but since I never really drove it hard or had any power behind it wasn't a problem. When I first bought the car I noticed a binding issue making tight turns but a tranny fluid change helped that out to some extent. I did a 4400 rpm launch with a buddy in the car the other day and the car didn't go anywhere. No burnt clutch smell and I wasn't spinning my wheels in place but I stayed in it and gradually started pulling away. I shift to second and bogged since I had almost no ground speed then drive off normally. I also get clunking when getting into power or lifting sometimes and making tight turns. I used to drive with DCCD set full rear for this reason.

How do you troubleshoot front and center diff issues?
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:00 PM   #113
manitou
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Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
I've always suspected something ever since I got the car but since I never really drove it hard or had any power behind it wasn't a problem. When I first bought the car I noticed a binding issue making tight turns but a tranny fluid change helped that out to some extent. I did a 4400 rpm launch with a buddy in the car the other day and the car didn't go anywhere. No burnt clutch smell and I wasn't spinning my wheels in place but I stayed in it and gradually started pulling away. I shift to second and bogged since I had almost no ground speed then drive off normally. I also get clunking when getting into power or lifting sometimes and making tight turns. I used to drive with DCCD set full rear for this reason.

How do you troubleshoot front and center diff issues?
That sucks! I would check the center diff by using the DCCD control full to the rear unlocked then locked and make the tightest turn radius and see how it feels. Then full to front unlocked and locked and see how that feels.

You should have no binding unlocked in either full front or full rear.

You should have binding locked full to the front but not full to the rear.

If you have no binding at all full to the rear and you do have binding full to front locked, you could probably rule out the center diff.

If you have some binding full front unlocked then the front diff may be bad.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:00 AM   #114
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post

I've always suspected something ever since I got the car but since I never really drove it hard or had any power behind it wasn't a problem. When I first bought the car I noticed a binding issue making tight turns but a tranny fluid change helped that out to some extent. I did a 4400 rpm launch with a buddy in the car the other day and the car didn't go anywhere. No burnt clutch smell and I wasn't spinning my wheels in place but I stayed in it and gradually started pulling away. I shift to second and bogged since I had almost no ground speed then drive off normally. I also get clunking when getting into power or lifting sometimes and making tight turns. I used to drive with DCCD set full rear for this reason.

How do you troubleshoot front and center diff issues?
I didn't notice your LC setting but depending on your tire size 4400 rpm's is probably not high enough and you're bogging it down at launch. I'd try 5-6k but maybe first you want to trouble shoot the center and front differentials to see what's up there!

I'm launching at 6k on my tall 245/45-18 Conti's and my buddy Alex launches his built STI with DSS axle bar upgrades and carbon drive shaft at 7k. He also runs BFG drag radials and they hook pretty hard!

On another note I ordered my Drive Shaft Shop carbon drive shaft and front and rear axle bar upgrades yesterday!! Yippee! I'll swap those in along with my Feal re- built Ohlins FPS and custom (by me) 1/2" front top hat spacers when the DSS stuff shows up!
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:24 AM   #115
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I don't have LC setup yet and I've been launching manually. I've only launched it about 5 times actually and all have been between 4000- 5000 rpm and I've only bogged once at that rpm so far and cut my best of 1.7X 60 ft. I could do better with a higher rpm launch but my diffs already don't like the 4400 rpm launches. I make peak torque at 3500 rpm then its flat all the way out to redline so as long as I stay in the gas there is usually no bogging.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #116
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
I don't have LC setup yet and I've been launching manually. I've only launched it about 5 times actually and all have been between 4000- 5000 rpm and I've only bogged once at that rpm so far and cut my best of 1.7X 60 ft. I could do better with a higher rpm launch but my diffs already don't like the 4400 rpm launches. I make peak torque at 3500 rpm then its flat all the way out to redline so as long as I stay in the gas there is usually no bogging.
That peak torque is not measured in 1st gear (it's either 3rd or 4th) and revs will drop until it loads up so that is why you'll need rev higher for launching! I would also guess your peak torque to be closer to 5k, you might make peak boost at 3500 but are you sure you're making peak torque down there?
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:31 AM   #117
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All the dyno graphs, VD, and my VE fuel map all show peak torque around 3500 rpm. I'm sure if I cranked the boost up I could get it to rise and peak later but right now I'm not even pushing the turbo or the motor.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:56 AM   #118
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
All the dyno graphs, VD, and my VE fuel map all show peak torque around 3500 rpm. I'm sure if I cranked the boost up I could get it to rise and peak later but right now I'm not even pushing the turbo or the motor.
What gear?
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:07 PM   #119
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All runs where done in either 3rd or 4th but even a run in 1st should have the same general shape right? I guess I'll have to do a pull and see.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:10 PM   #120
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All runs where done in either 3rd or 4th but even a run in 1st should have the same general shape right? I guess I'll have to do a pull and see.
Nope peak tq is much later in lower gears.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:11 PM   #121
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Does airboy have the gear ratio data if I pulled a first gear log?
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #122
manitou
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Does airboy have the gear ratio data if I pulled a first gear log?
Not sure VD does.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:08 AM   #123
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Did this FXT start as an auto, or manual? I sent you an email about the swap details, I absolutely LOVE FXTi's!
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:20 AM   #124
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Did this FXT start as an auto, or manual? I sent you an email about the swap details, I absolutely LOVE FXTi's!
Thanks! My XTI started life as a 2006 Forester XT 5MT Limited. I sent you a reply via email regarding my swap!
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:46 AM   #125
manitou
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LOVE this car!!!
Thank you! Sorry I missed your post!

Last edited by manitou; 04-07-2013 at 08:37 AM.
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