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Old 03-24-2013, 09:36 AM   #501
MikeCee
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Originally Posted by skywaffles View Post

I've seen plenty of torn and smeared rims on brass cases too. That's not unique to steel.

The chamber will get dirtier with steel cases as they don't expand and seal the chamber when fired. This typically only causes a problem if you transition to brass cases without first giving the chamber a quick scrub. The brass case will expand and stick to the carbon caused by steel case's lack of expansion.

Steel cases are perfectly fine to shoot. Steel jacketed bullets will accelerate wear on the barrel for high velocity rifles. The cost savings in shooting steel will easily pay for new barrels if you shoot enough though. For pistols this is less of a concern because pistol cartridges don't generate enough pressure and force on the barrel to make steel jackets detrimental.
What about extractor wear?
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:44 AM   #502
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Originally Posted by SonicWRX View Post
I talked him down to $700. He was a nice old guy and we both went away happy.

I was tempted to shoot it at the range yesterday, but held off. I figure it's old enough to need some fresh lube before firing. After reading up a bit I'm glad I did. They can be a bit quirky and there are no spare parts available. Some are shooters, some are not. I'm anxious to see what I got. Hopefully a shooter.
You have a never fired NIB model. Its not a shooter, its a collector.... until you shoot it, then its just used. Maybe find a trade for a more range appropriate specimen + cash?
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:18 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by chulooz View Post

You have a never fired NIB model. Its not a shooter, its a collector.... until you shoot it, then its just used. Maybe find a trade for a more range appropriate specimen + cash?
Fuddy duddy
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #504
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You have a never fired NIB model. Its not a shooter, its a collector.... until you shoot it, then its just used. Maybe find a trade for a more range appropriate specimen + cash?
Meh. Go shoot it....its relative value isn't related to its particular accuracy.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #505
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Pretty much every gun ever made is test fired before it's sold anyway. Shoot it and enjoy it.
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #506
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Com-tac Minotaur came in.









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Old 03-24-2013, 12:49 PM   #507
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Com-tac Minotaur came in.




that last picture is awesome
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:59 PM   #508
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That's his scepter
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #509
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It's like someone went to Home Depot and just went crazy with pipe fittings.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:27 PM   #510
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That's his scepter
That flash light is bright as **** too 700 lumens, 500 lumens, and a 700 lumen strobe
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #511
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That flash light is bright as **** too 700 lumens, 500 lumens, and a 700 lumen strobe
need a 4000 lumen flashlight.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #512
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If you miss your target with that gun, you can beat him to death with that flashlight!
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:44 PM   #513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chulooz View Post
You have a never fired NIB model. Its not a shooter, its a collector.... until you shoot it, then its just used. Maybe find a trade for a more range appropriate specimen + cash?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post
Meh. Go shoot it....its relative value isn't related to its particular accuracy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider View Post
Pretty much every gun ever made is test fired before it's sold anyway. Shoot it and enjoy it.
Oh I'm going to shoot it. I have no guns that will remain unfired. The only thing that keeps them virgins is my time and the weather.

I disassembled the bolt and found a little rust on the firing pin spring and the bolt body under the handle. It cleaned up easily. The whole bolt and chamber area had some sort of preservative on it that bleeds out as bright orange; not cosmoline, but not natural. Ten minutes with Q-tips, 0000 steel wool and CMP and it's back in business. The barrel had the same stuff in it.

I put a fired case in the breech to test the trigger pull (these guns can't be dry fired) and it is VERY light. I'm guessing 1-2 lbs, but will check it with a digital pull gauge to make sure.

The sights are a marvel and the front has 10 different inserts: three posts of varying widths and seven circles that jump in diameter by 0.2 mm. They are made in Australia and attach to dovetails on the barrel.



I probably can't make it back to the range for another try at March's 25 yard irons target, but I'm thinking April could be a competitive month for me.

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Old 03-24-2013, 01:59 PM   #514
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For a first AR15 build, would you guys recommend a 14.5" carbine or a 16" middy?
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #515
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That is a really pretty gun sonic.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:17 PM   #516
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My parents came over for dinner yesterday and my dad brought me this:



I didn't need anymore 9mm, but now I have over 1000 rounds, so I can shoot some I guess.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #517
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i wish ppl simply gave me ammo

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Old 03-24-2013, 03:30 PM   #518
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Originally Posted by 53x12 View Post
For a first AR15 build, would you guys recommend a 14.5" carbine or a 16" middy?
16" is still a carbine, 18" is considered a Mid

If it is your first then you cannot go wrong with a 16

The only issue with a 14.5 is you have to have the muzzle devise welded on for it not to be labeled an SBR. Which becomes an issue if you want to change it to an aftermarket one.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:31 PM   #519
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i wish ppl simply gave me ammo

So do I.

I paid him for it.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:40 PM   #520
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Originally Posted by The Motel Fella View Post
That is a really pretty gun sonic.
This is my rifle, this is my gun. This one's for fighting and this one's for fun.

Couldn't resist.

Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:43 PM   #521
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Originally Posted by Ryan24 View Post
16" is still a carbine, 18" is considered a Mid

If it is your first then you cannot go wrong with a 16

The only issue with a 14.5 is you have to have the muzzle devise welded on for it not to be labeled an SBR. Which becomes an issue if you want to change it to an aftermarket one.
I think he's talking about the gas system. 18" usually use an Intermediate gas tube.

If you're going to get a 14.5" middy, make sure it's from a reputable manufacturer like BCM. They are more finicky than 16" middys.

As far as the muzzle device thing, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Most manufacturers make 1.5" versions of their comps/brakes, or are already as long if not longer than that. A good pin & weld job shouldn't cost more than $40.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:49 PM   #522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan24 View Post
16" is still a carbine, 18" is considered a Mid

If it is your first then you cannot go wrong with a 16

The only issue with a 14.5 is you have to have the muzzle devise welded on for it not to be labeled an SBR. Which becomes an issue if you want to change it to an aftermarket one.
Yeah I was talking about gas systems in terms of the lengths I am considering (14.5" vs 16")


Quote:
Originally Posted by vecdran View Post
I think he's talking about the gas system. 18" usually use an Intermediate gas tube.

If you're going to get a 14.5" middy, make sure it's from a reputable manufacturer like BCM. They are more finicky than 16" middys.

As far as the muzzle device thing, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Most manufacturers make 1.5" versions of their comps/brakes, or are already as long if not longer than that. A good pin & weld job shouldn't cost more than $40.

I know the 14.5" middy is an option, but figured if I want a middy I would just go with the 16" and not have to deal with any reliability issues. Seems like the 16" middy might be the best route for me to go with.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #523
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So do I.

I paid him for it.
Did he gouge you too? Jesus christ. They come over, eat your food and take your money for **** you didnt need. Thats effed up man.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:56 PM   #524
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So do I.

I paid him for it.


"hey son, gimme some money"
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:56 PM   #525
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Did he gouge you too? Jesus christ. They come over, eat your food and take your money for **** you didnt need. Thats effed up man.
And drank my beer!

He used a coupon on the ammo.
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