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Old 05-16-2013, 05:51 PM   #26
spydrb8
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Moar updates!

Despite racing and breaking things, work does actually continue on the car, but I have to apologize for not updating in a timely fashion.

I finally got some parts in over the past couple weeks. I got my cast aluminum 2 piece shortened sump, and I finally got my transmission conversion goodies from the land down under. Subarugears makes a flip ring & pinion kit for the 5sp and I'm way impressed with the quality. Besides the R&P the kit comes with a setup tool, center diff spool, plug for the shortened center diff housing, output shafts (mine are type2/porsche pattern), a machined shift knob and a couple of stickers for good measure.



This week I've been working on the transmission and tearing it down to see what I bought. It's a TY754VBAAA from a 99-01 ver. 5/6 STI and supposedly one of the strongest 5sp built, or so I've read. It came apart in short order, found lots of corrosion on the through bolts that clamp the transmission together, not sure if that's normal galvanic corrosion or what. Before tear down I checked the shift action and it was still tight and notchy which gave me hope.



Looking at the gear stacks, they didn't look bad at all. First and second syncros got beat up pretty good but I've definitely seen worse. I tried to get close up pictures of the synchros but dropped my camera instead. :P I never did take the pics and now the stacks are off getting rebuilt with the new pinion shaft.

Another quick project that didn't get photos is rebuilding the OBX lsd. I got the rbryant kit, tore apart the OBX expecting to resurface it and was pleasantly surprised. The OBX wasn't perfect but was very serviceable in the shape I received it. The bolts and washers were replaced anyway as a precaution and everything bolted back together just like it should.



Last night I modified the case to accept the flipped differential. This is going to look so wrong to you guys I used a grinding disc to take care of most of it and I have some flap discs that I'll use to smooth things out later. I accidentally ground through the case on one of the bolt holes so that will have to be patched up later. For now the diff fits and spins easily with no contact and plenty on clearance.







Next on my to do list is to clearance the bell housing for the sti clutch parts. I have an Exedy stage 1 STI pressure plate and disk on the way and once they are here I can check for interference.
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:53 PM   #27
tekfoc
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Subscribed .
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #28
icanfly
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spydrb8 - nice work, it looks sah-weeet!!!!

The more I'm seeing these conversions the more I am reconsidering my use of the 901 trans. I'm going to roll with it till I nuke it but, I think that when I do, I'll be going this way.

How was doing business with SG and would you mind PM'ing me the costs (if you don't mind talking about it )

Also - what's the length of that trans from the back of the bell housing to the front of the nosecone?

Keep up the good work!

Last edited by icanfly; 05-17-2013 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Forgot to ask...
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:32 PM   #29
spydrb8
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You're going to kick yourself when you realize how easy it is. I paid ~$1950 for the kit and $950 for the transmission. I'm estimating ~$500 for a quick and dirty rebuild, and that includes new diff bearings, seal kit, and output shaft seals. That's about $3400 for my transmission that was pretty good off the crate, but you can tack on another $2500 if you want a full factory refresh. We'll see how it holds up to race duty in the bug, but I think the trans will handle it no problem.

The guys at subarugears have been awesome to work with. I was in for both group buys so far and the workmanship on all parts has been top notch. The videos they have on youtube have made this whole process much easier than I thought it was going to be.

I don't know the assembled length yet because I haven't trimmed the center diff housing, but it's an inch or 2 longer if I remember right. It's very close to a type 1 trans.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:48 PM   #30
jdogma
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Great project! Phil Grabow at element tuning ran a time attack car for about a year with stock internals and 500 whp. I think the key is preventing detonation, because that will kill cast pistons fast. He uses Hydra engine management. Has me using it too to run a EZ30R 6 that is turbocharged in a mid engined track car - Subaru EZ 30R mid engined track day car The Hydra unit allows use of the drive by wire, VVT and even has anti-lag capability.

Only thing I would encourage you to consider is the drive by wire. Having built over 20 mid engined cars and with bad memories of my VW bug throttle cable, I can say that DBY is great. It feels much better, has better response (less inertia and slack take-up), no drag, no stick, no jerking open, etc.

John
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #31
Andrey07Ny
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Very nice
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:09 PM   #32
spydrb8
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Big holiday weekend means lots of car work! I started the weekend by working on the other project first and finishing up the rear suspension. I finished the weekend by pulling the motor out of the race bug.

First up, got my gear stacks back with a collection of new gaskets, seals and shims.


Also got the new pressure plate and clutch, Exedy stage 1



Lastly I got some wiring components in, 100' of 8 colors, 14ga, chemical and heat resistant wire, and a couple of 22pin bulkhead connectors.





"I should have this outta here by dinner!" Nope. Drained 2.5 gallons of oil from the tank, then some from the motor, then some from the lines... and there was still oil dripping from here and there. I didn't get a picture of it but the header had separated at the slip fit. That would cause all the symptoms I was having right before I trailered it. Still going to check the lift at the valves to be certain.







It took a while to get the header, intake plumbing, and oil lines out of the way. Besides where the header separated there was only a bit of an exhaust leak on #4 and everything else had sealed tight.

Sunday, I started pulling everything else to get the motor out and on the stand before BBQ time. Fuel lines out, and manifolds off, and the motor pops out nice and easy. I wheeled the EJ25 out of the garage for some good comparison shots before cleaning up.









Transmission comes out next then it's time to pull the seats and the oil tank. The subaru trans needs to be finished up in the coming days, and wiring is also on the horizon, which will be a tedious job, but should be easier with the wiring diagram I've been working on.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #33
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Quick question how is your intake throttle body at the back, does the intake just spin around. Don't tell me that I didn't Check
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #34
spydrb8
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You can just flip it around nice and easy I'm not sure yet if that's how it'll end up though.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:51 PM   #35
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this is gonna be good, cant wait for more!
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:40 PM   #36
kaminaricelica07
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this is awesome...
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:36 PM   #37
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humble, looking like your makin some serious progress. make sure you wire up that avcs to the ms3 though, if you have the cams, might as well take advantage of it, its only a cervo and just needs to be triggered.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:31 PM   #38
spydrb8
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RonW, The servos are easy and controlled via PWM the problem is the dual cam sensors. The subaru ecu monitors each independently but the MS3 can only handle one from what I've seen. I'm still trying to figure that part out.
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:15 PM   #39
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In for info.
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:10 PM   #40
RonW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrb8 View Post
RonW, The servos are easy and controlled via PWM the problem is the dual cam sensors. The subaru ecu monitors each independently but the MS3 can only handle one from what I've seen. I'm still trying to figure that part out.
actually, it can handle 4 cam inputs. look in tuner studio under Advanced Engine -> VVT Settings -> select No Cam inputs 2 and then below specify your inputs. so #1 would be your Main cam input, #2 you can use JS10 or if you ave MS3X then you can use its cam input pin. it can be done!
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:26 PM   #41
spydrb8
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Color me schooled, I didn't know that MS3X had multiple cam inputs... Now I've got some reading to do!
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:30 PM   #42
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:41 PM   #43
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btw, that was not meant to be derogatory
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:47 PM   #44
spydrb8
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Ron, no offense taken, we're all educators here


Got some more work done on the car this weekend, even though it was 95F+ in the driveway on saturday. I spent most of saturday inside designing the new wiring harness and reading up on the MS3X VVT control. I want to see about using that for the ej25, but it adds 10 wires to the engine harness. Once it cooled off outside I started trimming down the center diff housing for the subaru trans. The guys at subarugears put an awesome video up on youtube that shows where to cut.


On sunday I headed over the Ambryn's place to get some help welding up the center diff housing, and to meet up with Ron who has a subaru swapped porsche 912. The 3 of us are at different stages in our swaps and so far have picked eachother's brains quite a bit. After chatting a bit (hours) Ron headed home and Ambryn and I got to work, but really Ambryn worked and I supervised.

Cleaning up some shoddy grinding that *somebody* did and making it look pretty




Looks much better after removing what's left of the freeze plug boss


Ambryn welded up the subaplug and the leftover holes. He blasted it afterwards to check for pin holes and clean it up.


I treated Ambryn to lunch and a great little taqueria (a staple food for me) and headed home to get a little more work done. Sean, my tire warmer/co-driver, came up to give me a hand for a bit. We pulled the seats out to make getting into the back easier to pull engine/ecu wiring and oil lines.




While I was at it I pulled the shift coupler free and Sean removed the trans and trans strap kit from the back.




I've been going over cage re-design ideas in my head a lot recently. I haven't been happy with the cage because it cuts into the driver space too much and it needs to be closer to the A/B pillars. I also want to eliminate the rear package tray so the firewall slopes from the bottom of the rear window to just above the transmission nosecone. That will give more room for the turbo and oil cooler underneath but I'll have to modify the rear cage stays. I'm contemplating chopping the cage forward of the main hoop, then shortening the rear cage stays to match the new firewall, and staying with a 4 point until a new cage can be welded in.
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:05 PM   #45
kaminaricelica07
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looking good!
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:14 PM   #46
spydrb8
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Things have slowed down a bit, but progress continues. Work has been killing me lately so I spent last weekend out camping near Yosemite with a bunch of friends and it was a great way to unwind. I learned a valuable lesson about drinking at 8000', not too much and not too fast.


I got some new parts in that will go on the car soon. Back in March or so I put an order in for these 935-style adjustable spring plates and they finally came in. They are 7075-T6 aluminum, with a burly M20 heim for the pivot, and grade 12.8 hardware throughout.





They replace the spring plates forward of the rear disk in this picture.


I bolted up the rear motor mount/adapter from subarugears.com since I was worried it might not clear the mendeola rear suspension brace. It's a tight fit but it works.





Speaking of Mendeola, I saw that they offered their own mounts for the subaru swaps, so I ordered their front mount and shift rod coupler. Top notch parts from great guys!




Racing season is still in full swing but the car is on blocks, what to do? I called my friend (and closest competitor/nemesis) Ian to see if I could co-drive his car. Ian has an OSP '99 miata with the Flyin' Miata catalog thrown at it and it's a fast car, faster and better setup than my beetle. Well, I was able to best Ian in his own car by 1.23 seconds, and drive it to a 7th overall in raw time, and 4th in pax. It's not all bad, I did pay his entry, and he had a datalogger going so he can compare our runs to learn from the whole thing. I learned quite a bit as well, like how wonderful an lsd is and what lack of understeer feels like on turn-in. I'm pretty jealous I have to say, it's a sweet ride.

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Old 07-04-2013, 10:32 PM   #47
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Love your car and what you had acomplished with it. Hope it will be better with your new set up!
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:29 PM   #48
RSti_Spyder
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If anyone hears of a ready to go SubyGears transmission coming up for sale, I might just take the convert to the dark side. Building another STi longblock for the Manx so will have a spare hanging around...
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:11 PM   #49
spydrb8
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Overdue update:

I've been crazy busy with vacations and work since the end of June. I was either out of town or running around with friends who were in town. I was able to work on the trans here and there, but made it more difficult than it needed to be.

When I got the aluminum Aasco flywheel I didn't know there was a difference in the STI and WRX parts. When I did some digging I saw that you could clearance the bell housing to make it work. Not really....







I trimmed the webbing around the bell housing to clear the flywheel and clutch and did my first test fit. the bottom inspection opening isn't big enough and the clutch fork pivot is too close. It clears on one side but as I ground a hole in the bell housing near the starter boss to make it fit on the other side I saw it wasn't going to work.

Ambryn came to my rescue and welded up the hole for me, but I didn't get any good pics of it before the repair work. I had to grind the starter boss flat again, and profile the area where the clutch fork pivot shaft plug goes in. I needed to re-tap the hole as well since the threads melted a bit from the filler work.







Now with the trans cleaned up I can put it together
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:13 PM   #50
spydrb8
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Things went together easy enough when I remembered to include things like the vss drive gear and shaft :P After cleaning the case halves to remove all the aluminum dust I dropped the driven shaft in to do the shim measurement. You put it in without shims first and use the subarugears tool to find out how many shims to add.







The pinion depth shims are cheap so I ordered a bunch in different thicknesses ahead of time to have them on hand since every dealership I talked to didn't keep any in stock.

Next I turned to the bearing races and seals for the differential. Just mark then loosen the adjustment cups on either side, the bearing will probably fall out while you are doing this. Replace the o-ring and the axle seal, make sure that the seals are the the "wrong" side. Left goes on the right and vise versa, that way the oil grooves are in the correct orientation for the reversed R&P.







Quick note about the differential. I got an OBX LSD and replaced the washers and bolts "just in case". Before i put the ring gear on, I tested the output shafts and they were too tight to go on. I used a dremel to run the grooves on the diff splines until I could get the output shafts on. This is fairly common with OBX diffs it seems, when I tried the output shafts on the stock diff they slip on nice and easy.

Time to put it all mostly together. Put the case halves together and tighten it all up, but leave the nose cone/center diff housing off. Those differential bearing cups need to be adjusted now and rather than go through the pics (which I was too busy to take :P ) you can watch the subarugears video which was hugely helpful.


Once I did that, I took it all apart, greased up the ring gear and put it all back together again to check the pattern. You don't have to do this but I was really curious, and it came out fine.



Let's talk about RTV. Let's talk about you and me. Let's talk about all the good things but mostly bad things that you see. Let's talk about sealant. Let's talk about sealant...

Just a little line and spread it out with your finger, it should be a very thin coating meant to fill gaps. I'm tired of seeing half a tube of liquid gasket, RTV, or permabond used to seal surfaces.





I got all excited and forgot to get a good shot before the nose cone and axle stubs went on so BAM! built transmission ready for install. I did the common trans fluid mix of 1qt. motul 75w90 and 3 qt. redline shockproof synthetic gear oil, which gets great reviews on nasioc.

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