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Old 08-06-2013, 03:15 PM   #51
spydrb8
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I mentioned earlier about difficulties with the STI flywheel & pressure plate. I went and got a whole new WRX setup to use on the car instead but took some shots side by side while I had all the parts.

Right side: STI Aasco 11.5 lb aluminum flywheel, Exedy 15803 stage 1 clutch and pressure plate

Left side: WRX ACT 9.5 lb chromoly flywheel, Exedy 15802 stage 1 clutch and pressure plate











Basically the WRX parts are the ones you should be using with the 5sp. Your life will be a lot easier if you do. For a street bug using this swap I'd go with a heavier 12-15lb. flywheel, but in the race bug lighter is better. The WRX stuff is a bit smaller in diameter, which reminds me of the bug vs bus flywheel/clutch/pressure plate questions when running my old type 4 motor.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:54 PM   #52
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I want one
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:36 PM   #53
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So I WAS going to try and test fit the motor and trans but sent the oil pan off to get modified instead. The awesome, bug@5speed pan doesn't clear the stock subaru mounts, so I need to run a shortened stock sump. There's no shortage of work to be done though so I continued stripping the bug. I finished pulling the fuel system, and fuel cell out of the car to make room for the radiator. I got everything out and started cutting before I realized I hadn't taken any pics :P



The radiator is for a 95 rx7 turbo but it fits perfectly in the bug. The bottom mounts attach to a lower radiator support welded to the forward body mount points. The top of the radiator is braced to the body on either side, and it's pretty sturdy. You can also see the new fuel tank that is loosely resting in the stock location. It's a 15 gallon RCI tank, and I wish there was a better place to put it, but for now it has to sit up high







As I was test fitting everything, I grabbed the air/water intercooler setup and started placing parts. The heat exchanger is an upgraded Ford Lightning part, water pump also comes from the Lightning, and the tank is a simple 1 gallon cell. The heat exchanger fit perfectly behind the stock grill opening, but finding a good spot for the tank and pump was a bit harder. I' worried that filling the area behind the radiator will kill the air flow, and I don't want to heat soat the water tank. Between the tank, pump, heat exchanger and lines, the extra weight adds up. I've been thinking about doing an air/air setup out back but now it'll probably get serious consideration.



After a bit of a break I started working on wiring. I pulled out the race dash and switch gear, and started trimming back the harness. I wasn't happy with the location and routing of the stock harness, so with all the new parts I'm re-doing the wiring again to clean it up and simplify the circuits. I'm also going to go with a more modern fuse/relay box relocated to the glove box area for easy reach. I'm going to go back to the stock dash, and use a digital dash in the stock location which should be a little easier on the eyes.

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Old 08-13-2013, 11:18 PM   #54
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Got my shortened pan and pickup back from Jeff who did an awesome job. Got them bolted onto the motor so I can get a trial fit of the motor and trans in the next few days.









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Old 08-14-2013, 06:44 PM   #55
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Humble, looks great. making progress. we'll be cornerbalancing that that baby soon

where did you put the turbo oil return line?
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:00 PM   #56
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I can't wait to see how the motor/trans combo affect the weight balance. It was somethingn like 44.5F/55.5R previously, and I'm trying to move the battery farther forward to cope.

The turbo oil and coolant lines are still stock and I think the turbo drains back into the block or head if I remember right.

How's the 912 doing? Haven't heard anything out of you in a while *hinthint*
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:31 PM   #57
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It is better to have more weight on the drive wheels, The 50 50 is more of a selling feature which Mazda has used extensively
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:41 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrb8 View Post
I can't wait to see how the motor/trans combo affect the weight balance. It was somethingn like 44.5F/55.5R previously, and I'm trying to move the battery farther forward to cope.

The turbo oil and coolant lines are still stock and I think the turbo drains back into the block or head if I remember right.

How's the 912 doing? Haven't heard anything out of you in a while *hinthint*
oh thats right, you get to keep it in the same spot, nice.

havent heard from me cuz ive been driving mine a lot
trans has been done for a while but havent felt the need or desire to really pull the 901 as long as im nice to it in 1st. i do need to still install that Tarret rear sway bar though, 3 wheelin sucks! need to cb mine too, its all jacked up at the moment. we should try to hook up when you get read to do yours and we can do both at the same time (well back to back i mean)

keep up the good work
ron
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:51 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrb8 View Post
Got my shortened pan and pickup back from Jeff who did an awesome job. Got them bolted onto the motor so I can get a trial fit of the motor and trans in the next few days.
Ew I wouldn't have shortened the stock pickup. They have enough cracking issues without being messed with. Just email killer b and have they make ya a short one
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:10 PM   #60
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This is a super sweet build! I'll definitely be shadowing this thread as I am doing a 1.8 mpfi turbo swap into a 74 Super Beetle!! Yours is looking super clean and well done though. Props man, keep up the good work!
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:18 PM   #61
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Two steps forward, three steps back, pretty frustrating weekend, but important update none the less.

I started by getting the motor ready, bolting on the flywheel, and clutch assembly. This job was made easier thanks to the aircooled vw flywheel lock, handy little thing.





While I was at it I did some more body mods to make sure I had enough clearance for the motor and turbo. I removed the sealing tin from the rear package tray, and cleaned up the sides to match.







Next I got the motor and trans together nice and easy and tried to get it into the car. Firstly, the output stubs had to come off to get the trans in the right position. Then it became obvious the turbo wouldn't clear the package tray. Try as we might I was about an inch from getting the new motor mount bolts in. Finally I pulled the trans off the motor so I could manhandle it into place and see what the problem was



I'm going to come out and say it right away, the subaru trans will not fit the bug without modifying the body. With the medeola motor mount in the lowest position, the top of the bell housing just clears the package tray, BUT the clutch fork does not. Also, the new nose cone/old center diff housing contacts the body above the torsion bar tube. You need to modify this area like you did for the old 901/914 trans swap.







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Old 08-19-2013, 03:18 PM   #62
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I was hoping I wouldn't have to do any body work but it's necessary. I'm going to use this as an opportunity to re-do the cage as well as prototype a mod I've had in my head for a while. The idea is to take the rear package tray and make a 45* angle from the bottom of the back window to the floor above the transmission. To make this happen I have to sacrifice the front of the roll cage to keep the main hoop/rear stays, so out came the cutting tools and the cage.





The rear cage stays will have the plates cut off and the legs shortened to meet the new raised floor. It will be cleaned up and have what's left of the old front section removed.



A very empty beetle...






On a side note, I'm drawing up the new wiring plans, and I want to switch to a digital dash. I've been looking at the Aim MXL Strada, Race Technology Dash2 Pro, and the Racepak IQ3 and want to find folks who have used them. Of the 3, the MXL Strada is the only one with official support for the megasquirt MS3 on CAN bus, the other 2 are CAN capable but don't support MS3 on CAN bus, only serial. Once you factor in logging and camera control the Dash2 Pro and IQ3 start looking better due to price. Any info would be helpful.
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #63
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It was a rough week, but I hunkered down and soldiered on. Found out a good friend and former co-driver passed away very suddenly a week ago. He was pretty young at 29, and I didn't even know he was sick, but he had late stage liver cancer. Biehruz was the kindest and most competitive guy I know, he will be dearly missed.

Worked on the bug off and on but got a lot done over the weekend. It seemed like I was spinning my wheels, but hopefully now I'm over the hump. The rear package try was ready to be modded so I started there. I cut along the sides and in the corner so I could fold the flaps up to meet in the middle.



I trimmed up the sheet metal and I'll make a new floor later. You can see the new floor brace I started on that may also support the accusump later. I started to pull the rear suspension apart because it needed to come out to get the front transmission mount in.



With the floor trimmed up it was time to try and fit the motor again. it's a bit of chicken and egg when it comes to the front trans mount. You can't place it without having the motor/trans together, but its a pain to get the motor/trans into place as a whole unit. Eventually I got them into the car and bolted the motor mount in using the lowest setting. Just eyeballing it now looks like the cross pipe for the header sits about where the old turbo was mounted.





I had to cut a little flap to clear the nose of the trans. After the fact I realized it might fit if I had ground down the rib on top but it still would have been a tight fit. Of course I failed to notice the brake line for the rear was right against the body so I cut right through it :P





Now it was time to completely remove the rear trailing arms so I could locate and drill the holes for the forward trans mount. It was such a pain in the ass to drill the holes, my arms were killing me by the time I was done. I needed to pull the trailing arms off anyway to upgrade the spring plate and swap out the driver's side trailing arm to match the passenger side.





I quick comparison between the old '87 944 turbo trailing arm (bottom) and the new '90 944 S2 arm (top). The big differences being the elimination of the bump stop pad and the new arm is ready for a wheel speed sensor. There is a different stub axle with teeth around the cv cup if you're curious.



Passenger side bolted in loosely for test fit of the new 935-style adjustable spring plate. Seriously awesome part, thanks to Alex on the germanlook.net forum.



That's about it for now. It doesn't seem like much but for each thing I had to do something else to get it ready. Hopefully now it goes a little smoother and there won't be as many problems.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #64
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydrb8 View Post
The reason for the swap:
I ran two drivers in my car last year, which is like doubling your season. I noticed that no matter what I did, my head temps kept creeping up to 400-425F.
At the time you were measuring the CHT, you were running the beetle aircooled engine?
You had the thermocouple under the spak plug washer?
What was a normal range for that engine?
I am seeing around 250 F but that is a watercooled-obviously Ej207.
I think this is on the cold side, but I am not racing it.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #65
spydrb8
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This was on the old aircooled turbo motor. I had two thermocouples, one under the #3 plug and the other under #2. Normal highway driving or short sprints on boost, the heads would normally sit around 300-325F. Long sprints, track days, or back to back autox runs would get the head to 400F and I had seen as high as 450F on a hot day.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:33 PM   #66
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I have one thermocouple, but have the remaining 3 ready to install.
Did you have equal or close temperatures?, I am guessing you had one on the left and one on the right bank.
Were you tuning for even temperatures?
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:27 PM   #67
spydrb8
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I ran one on each head, on the cylinders I expected to run the hottest. In a bug the temps vary by 25-75F because of the air cooling shroud and the position of the cylinders. Aircooled vw head temps are really sensitive to airflow. On a subaru, I would expect to see lower head temps that are much closer together thanks to water cooling. Though I have read that #3 on the turbo subaru motors runs a little hotter thanks to the turbo piping running close to the head.

You can't really use head temps for tuning in the way that you might use exhaust temps for tuning. High head temps are usually symptoms of other problems. In a subaru, you would see detonation well before you saw high head temps from running too lean. I ran a dual CHT because I knew I was playing with fire, running a lot of boost on an air cooled motor, and head temps are critical. I'll still run the CHT on the subaru, but oil pressure will take precedence now since the EJ motors are really sensitive to pressure loss.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #68
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I wasn't planning to use CHT in the way you'd use EGT.
I use AFR from the wideband, MAF scaling, knock logging, load, WGDC(common stuff) etc..
The best way to protect agains knock, once you have a solid and proven tune, is to log often..

With my application, I can do corrections per cylinder and not just timing. So I am going to use per cylinder data for balancing, that's what I need these for and that's what I meant by tuning for equal CHT.

I know that aircooled CHT are variable over a wide range, Porsche switched to liquid cooling for better thermal ballance. This is not the case with Subaru.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:32 PM   #69
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Very nice, what ecu are you using? I plan on doing something similar with the MS3X, though I probably won'g go as far as individual cylinder trim. I can configure the MS3X to log every time the engine is turned on (deleting old logs automatically when it fills up), and I plan to feed it as much data as possible.
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:34 PM   #70
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The JDM EJ207 ECU (I have a Spec C V9 2005 engine) has fuel trims per cylinder, it has timing per cyl too. The Spec C has equal length headers and (probably) equal flow intake runners, there are no TGV.

The timing is biased for one cyl, to improve knock detection. I plan to temporarily zero out that and watch the 4 CHT, probably do minor adjustments and hope to help my engine last longer.
The Spec C comes with tubular headers and I don't like the idea to make them into swiss cheese with individual holes for EGT or even widebands.

Then you have to find bungs made out of the same stainless alloy as the headers and probably need flux welding too.
Of course it can also be done the cheap way, but I like to keep things reliable, it's my thing.

BTW, you can monitor 4 CHT channels with a MGL Avionics Stratomaster, the price is not bad and the unit is cold junction compensated, this is what I use.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:10 PM   #71
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Sweet build, how are you finding the SubaruGears stuff ?
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:27 PM   #72
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The subarugears stuff has all been top notch so far, but I haven't had a chance to really punish it yet.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:30 PM   #73
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Lots of little projects to keep me busy while I wait on money and parts. I worked on getting the new fuel tank frame fabbed up and painted. It'll hold the larger 15 gal fuel tank in the stock location (which is higher than I want), and do to the slight angle I should have better fuel pickup but slightly less capacity.









I want to get a stock dash back in the car, to clean it up, and because one of the classes I want to run in requires it. I bought this one a while ago but only unwrapped it this weekend and it was a mess. A lot of rust and dirt from sitting and the dash pad was cracked. I threw some paint on it to make it a bit more pleasing to the eye and I'll clean it up later. The metal dash strip in the original from the car and has the correct VIN, I saved it just in case I wanted to put a dash back in the car.



Installed the mendeola stiffy brace and got the suspension bolted back in to make sure everything cleared alright. I also replaced the brake line I cut through when I was cutting the flap for the transmission nose cone. I also tested fitted a modded down pipe from a previous project to get an idea of routing for the exhaust. While everything was in place I measured for the new axle length I'll need and it's 18 3/4" which I'll need to order from sway-a-way.







You probably noticed the trans fluid and catch pan under the car in those last pics. I turned the motor over with the trans in gear to make sure everything was still good and one of the axle seals started leaking. It's about a drip a second which is pretty bad, so I think the retaining spring came off the inside of the seal. I'm going to have to pull the trans back out of the car to fix it which is a pain, but better to do it now than later.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #74
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Took a long weekend to work on the bug, the big task on hand was pulling the motor/trans to replace the leaking axle seal. Surprisingly, I was able to pull the motor/trans very quickly by leaving the trans mount and engine cradle in place. Not that I plan to make use of that feature very often, but it is handy. The longest part of the job was running down to the subaru dealership to get parts. I sent more time in traffic than I did on the whole axle seal job. So here's a shot of a beautiful, not-leaking, reversed R&P 5spd (the stain is from the previously munged axle seal)



I also got an email from the folks over at subarugears.com regarding the oil level and potential future leaks. Since the center diff housing is cut in half, and the trans doesn't sit at the same angle it does in the subaru, it's necessary to put the full amount of gear oil in to get good coverage on 5th gear. This does put the oil level about 1/3 up the axle seal and while it's okay for street use, under race conditions I'll need to vent the case to prevent oil from blowing out. I'll probably use the whole I accidentally ground through the case for the breather which should be above the oil level. They did mention not to use the dipstick tube because the bottom of that is below the oil level and could cause problems.

I spent a little time upgrading my toolbox this weekend too. Yes, it's a cheapy harbor freight box, because I'd rather put 10k into my drivetrain and not my toolbox. I was using a 26" craftsman roller and top box but I out grew it a long time ago. The new 42" box can hold most of my tools plus my electrical/wiring tools, and a later side addition can hold the engine building and precision tools. I got some tool organizers as well so everything is easier to find which is part of what started this upgrade in the first place. I was just getting tired of having to search in 3 or 4 places to find the tools I needed. No toolbox is complete without some bling so I put a bunch of stickers on it to make it faster



Spent Saturday striping the wiring out of the bug and separating the harnesses. I put the dash in so I could figure out the new fusebox mount and wire routing. So far the chassis harness is ready to go (lights, wipers, horn, starter), and I got the engine ready for power wiring (alternator+, starter+, and battery+). Spent some time that night pouring over the subaru wiring diagrams to figure out alternator and coolant sensor wiring. Once the dash went in I realized how much the cage intruded into driver/passenger space, I can't wait until the new cage goes in this winter.





On Monday I dragged my laptop out into the garage and did a lot of measuring, head scratching and ordering parts. I ran out of, or didn't have the right AN fittings for the fuel system so I ordered those and moved on to coolant plumbing. I used some cut up radiator hoses for mock up and ordered the necessary silicone bends. I have some industrial gates hose I could use under the car but I would rather get some stainless 1.5" pipe for looks/lightness. A new throttle body, air/air intercooler, and intake/exhaust plumbing are all on order too.

I'm in a rush now to finish everything up before the rainy season starts, and last weekends storm was a reminder it's just around the corner.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:52 PM   #75
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Slow progress on the bug, a lot of hurry-up-and-wait. I'm working on wiring, plumbing, and exhaust at the same time as I run into blockages.

Wiring:
Fascinating and tedious, I love and hate wiring. I'm using the existing engine harness to create a new one using a couple weatherpak 22-pin connectors for quick disconnect. I'm on the first part of this which is simply figuring out what needs to be on the engine side of the bulkhead connectors and getting the ends terminated. COPs, injectors, cam angle sensors and crank angle sensor are done at the moment. Also related to wiring, I found a good deal on an open box Aim MXL Pista so I'll be using that for the dash. I like that it's compatible with the MS3X can-bus, a big factor in the decision, and I'm wondering if I can feed sensor data back to the MS3X from the Pista.

Plumbing:
I ordered a handful of 1.5" silicon bends and couplers for the cooling system, so those are ready and waiting. I want to pick up some stainless 1.5" pipe and get it bent to hug the underside of the bug, that will be lighter than the reinforced gates hydraulic hose I have. I need to find a good diagram of the engine coolant routes to make sure the swirl pot and turbo are plumbed correctly. I've been waiting on a fuel surge tank, which finally arrived yesterday, to finish plumbing the fuel system. Now that it's here I can finish the AN hoses and be done with it. I've been on the lookout for ideas on how to plumb an accusump into the ej25 but still keep the oil/water cooler. Everything I see just replaces the oil cooler with a sandwich plate for the accusump.

Exhaust:
I bought way more than I need so I have plenty of materials to screw things up a couple times. Turbo back, the exhaust will only be about 2 ft. long at most. I got a 3" v-band output flange for the turbo, some 180 and 45 degree 3" pipe, a couple 3" v-band clamps, and a 3" Borla xr-1 oval muffler which hopefully takes some bite out of the exhaust volume. If not I think I might have a 3" supertrapp floating around which should do the job. Ideally, I need to be below 92db to run at Lagua Seca in my back yard, or shell out for no-limit days.

In racing news I had a great event a week ago Sunday. Event #8 autoxing with NorCalUFO in Marina, and it was a fairly fast but technical course that wasn't easy to read. I've been in a heated points battle with my nemesis all year, and this was his last chance to take the championship away from me. We ran in the afternoon and since we had a 2 driver car our tires were getting pretty hot. Ian (nemesis), on the other hand got screwed by the grid master, a newbie cutting in line, and the karts, so all his runs were basically on cold tires. I pulled a 48.1 to his 49.0 cinching the OSP championship points race. I'm currently 3rd overall with 2 races to go, not sure I can swing 2nd overall but it's worth a shot. The downside to this, is that the Cayman has killed my poor tires, so after this season it's time for another set.

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