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Old 03-26-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
GGSimpreza
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Default Crankcase pressure blows out cam or crank seals

Anybody heard of this happening? Had to been what happened to my late EJ20G. Never seen this much oil leak from the timing cover due to a normal cam or crank seal leak over time.

Either way, doing these first, then we'll see what's up!

BTW got two Ebay catch can kits coming. That should fix it!
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:09 PM   #2
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EBay catch cans? Are the hose diameters big enough? I prefer the Crawford AOS v2 if you have a front mount. I also like the moroso dual catch can setup.

Research will yield that eBay stuff is cheap for a reason.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:24 AM   #3
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The hose diameters are big enough, 3/8". My tuner has built numerous Subies and says it'll be fine.

What diameter hoses does yours have?
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:57 AM   #4
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And update, seals were still seated, just leaking terribly. Crank seal especially.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #5
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Ive only had luck using the Subaru cam/crank seals.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:31 PM   #6
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Your PCV passage on the back of the Block behind the flywheel is probably gunked up, or the PCV valve is frozen shut, or vac lines are improperly routed.

Crank case pressure is not being vented back into the engine since its mostly coming from the crank seal,. if you disconnect the line on the passenger side of the throttle on the block and run the engine, if no pressure is being vented, you're going to have to pull the engine or the
trans.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
Your PCV passage on the back of the Block behind the flywheel is probably gunked up, or the PCV valve is frozen shut, or vac lines are improperly routed.

Crank case pressure is not being vented back into the engine since its mostly coming from the crank seal,. if you disconnect the line on the passenger side of the throttle on the block and run the engine, if no pressure is being vented, you're going to have to pull the engine or the
trans.
Thanks for the info, checking the PCV system is directly next when I get done with seals and timing today.

So you're saying a hose on the passenger side of the throttle body or block? Where does this run to and from?

Do you know of a vacuum line routing diagram for the EJ20K setup? (Mines a late G, so it's setup like a K)
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:24 PM   #8
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All EJ blocks vent from the passenger side block half just to the left of the throttle its roughly a 5/8' hose that comes out usually to a Y one goes to the PCV valve and one goes to the turbo inlet tube.


Here's a Google search result that might help, since Subaru doesn't list any other market systems out of the US.



The line turning 90deg pointing to the bottom of the screen into the block is the block vent. ignore routing, just the best pic to illustrate location

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
All EJ blocks vent from the passenger side block half just to the left of the throttle its roughly a 5/8' hose that comes out usually to a Y one goes to the PCV valve and one goes to the turbo inlet tube.


The line turning 90deg pointing to the bottom of the screen into the block is the block vent. ignore routing, just the best pic to illustrate location

Thanks for the help! So I'll take my intercooler off to get to it. I just need to see if there's air moving through that hose and if so I'm good?
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:02 PM   #10
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Yes intercooler off would be easiest.

Then take the line off and put the intercooler back on, with that hose off the block, the lower crankcase pressure should vent the same as running with the oil fill cap off.

If little to no air pulses are coming out of the block, its blocked. If there is a lot of air flow your problem is elsewhere.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:42 PM   #11
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so the pcv crank case port and the rear (near the bell housing) port are both crank case vents correct?

2.0 only has the rear vent, the 2.5 has both.

i ask because i have 2.0 heads on my 2.5 and opted to have that pcv vent plugged in the block.

i have a crawford aos on the rear crank case vent, but just curious about why subaru chose to add the second crankcase port on the 2.5
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:48 PM   #12
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I know this sounds obvious but how much oil is in the engine? I accidently put too much in a vw once and it was blowing oil out everywhere and smoking like a freight train.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damonmlime View Post
I know this sounds obvious but how much oil is in the engine? I accidently put too much in a vw once and it was blowing oil out everywhere and smoking like a freight train.
Nope, I'm not an idiot.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blktrax View Post
Your PCV passage on the back of the Block behind the flywheel is probably gunked up, or the PCV valve is frozen shut, or vac lines are improperly routed.

Crank case pressure is not being vented back into the engine since its mostly coming from the crank seal,. if you disconnect the line on the passenger side of the throttle on the block and run the engine, if no pressure is being vented, you're going to have to pull the engine or the
trans.
Start here. If that passes inspection then it's time to do a compression test. although if I think about it if the compression was that bad and the PCV were working correctly chances are pretty darn good that it's barely running.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:24 PM   #15
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I'd say rule out the seals being old/worn/improperly installed before blaming excess crankcase pressure. Do a leakdown test too.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:06 PM   #16
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By stupid coincidence we JUST had this happen on an engine locally yesterday. Engine teardown is this afternoon and we'll find out why.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:39 PM   #17
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Confirmed dead pistons. Even with sizable breather system it was enough to blow out ALL the seals.

You'd better do that compression test.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Confirmed dead pistons. Even with sizable breather system it was enough to blow out ALL the seals.

You'd better do that compression test.
Once I got into my timing cover and got the pulleys off to change seals, the crank seal was leaking the worst (as they typically do since the crank spins twice as much as the cams) but I went ahead and did cam and crank seals of course. They were the stock seals still, and the motor sat in a warehouse for a while.

Catch cans are installed also, dual can setup.

I'm still leaking oil from somewhere, but not as quickly as before. I'll have to find it still. There was just so much from the front of the motor that I couldn't determine where else it could be leaking from.

That being said, my pops has a compression tester so I'll get on that too.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGSimpreza View Post
Once I got into my timing cover and got the pulleys off to change seals, the crank seal was leaking the worst (as they typically do since the crank spins twice as much as the cams) but I went ahead and did cam and crank seals of course. They were the stock seals still, and the motor sat in a warehouse for a while.

Catch cans are installed also, dual can setup.

I'm still leaking oil from somewhere, but not as quickly as before. I'll have to find it still. There was just so much from the front of the motor that I couldn't determine where else it could be leaking from.

That being said, my pops has a compression tester so I'll get on that too.
Man, I REALLY hope you find that it was just dry seals as that will make life much easier.

Keep us all updated.
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