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Old 07-29-2013, 05:50 PM   #1
Half Crazed
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Impreza WRX STi My built motor and hard break-in results... (and log)

So I have decided to post this which will include specs to my build and results from the break-in process... I know there's tons of controversy out there regarding break-in, but this thread is not for that. We decided to do the hard break-in after hours and hours of research. This post will only contain facts as to what we used and did... discussion of interpreting these results are welcome.

The Parts

The short block was built by Outfront Motorsports and has CP pistons, CP rings, Manley H-Tuff rods, stock crankshaft in an EJ257.

Block: EJ257
Crank: New heat treated OE
Stroke: 79mm
Bore: 99.5mm
Piston Clearance: .0027
Main bearings: KING, .001-.0015
Rod bearings: KING, standard clearance
Rod length: 5.139
Big end size: 52mm
Oil pump: 11mm
Killer bee oil pickup tube
Purolator PureOne oil filters

Piston info:
CP Forged pistons (SC7420)
Bore diameter: 3.9175
Clearance: 0.003
Compression height: 1.208
Total weight: 568g, Big end: 393g, Pin end: 175g

Heads: Stock W25 with SuperTech SS valves. Stock valve lashing set by machine shop... would have upgraded with better springs/retainers but plan on doing it in the future w/induction upgrades.

Stock fuel pump, injectors, FPR, TMIC.

Other mods:
  • ARP head studs
  • TGV deletes
  • Air pump delete
  • Perrin big 3" inlet
  • P&L CAI w/big K&N filter
  • Invidia up pipe
  • Invidia equal length headers
  • Tomei timing belt guide
  • Gates racing timing belt
  • Gates racing accessory belt
  • Gates stretch a/c belt
  • Invidia divorced catless DP
  • Invidia Q300 catback
  • DEI Titanium wrap on headers, up pipe, and DP
  • PTP Lava turbo blanket
  • Group-N motor & trans mounts
  • 8mm phenolic spacer with double gasket
  • AEM digital wideband gauge in SMY cluster
  • AEM digital boost gauge in SMY cluster
  • AEM digital oil pressure gauge in monkeybone racing pod
  • Defi EGT Gauge
  • Lucas Concepts FPR Kit
Mods Coming soon (*purchased or to purchase):
  • *1000cc ID
  • *Blouch Dominator 3
  • *Grimmspeed up pipe for ewg
  • *Tial 44mm EWG
  • *Grimmspeed EBCS
  • *HKS SSQV bov
  • IAT sensor
  • Perrin stealth front mount
  • Perrin fuel rails
  • AOS, probably crawford
  • *DW 65c pump

Goal: 450-500awhp.



BLACKSTONE OIL ANALYSIS (From 30mi to 500mi range): TBD
BLACKSTONE OIL ANALYSIS (From 500mi to 1500mi range): TBD
BLACKSTONE OIL ANALYSIS (From 1500mi to 3500mi range): TBD

^^ Seriously, I'm getting to these ^^

------------------


The break-in process
  1. We used 5qts of advanced auto brand 5w30 oil.
  2. Pulled crank sensor and primed motor, 4 sets of like 20 seconds
  3. Started motor, watched oil burn off headers, almost suffocated in garage. Let it idle up to operating temp (about 15-20 mins). Shut down
  4. Dumped oil. Let it cool down. Checked/filled coolant after burping system.
  5. Filled up with more AA 5w30 oil w/lucas oil break-in additive (bit.ly/13t5QZ8). Warmed up motor. Drove about 20 miles lightly.
  6. Dumped oil.
  7. Filled up with castrol gtx 10w40 w/lucas oil break-in additive.
  8. Drove hard around town, pulling up from 2k to 6k RPM, then engine braking down. Did this about 30 times (or more).. Lots of engine braking and boost, ~15psi.
  9. Dumped oil. Filled up with castrol gtx 10w40 w/lucas oil break-in additive.
  10. Drove hard/normal for 500 miles
  11. Dumped oil... oil looked like new oil (seriously clean)
  12. Filled up with castrol gtx 10w40 w/lucas oil break-in additive. Going for 1k miles (only at 600ish at time of writing this).
  13. After dumping oil at the 1k point, going to just the gtx 10w40 w/o the additive and dumping every 2k miles. After 5k on motor, will switch to rotella T6.
Oil Consumption
None. Throughout entire process, there has been no smoke out of the tailpipe (out of the ordinary exhaust), no smoke from filler tube (obviously/thankfully), and no loss on dipstick during the first 500mi break-in. No leaks anywhere else.


Compression Test
Compression test was done at 800mi on COLD motor. I know people are doing these tests on warm motors, but we simply didn't as it was getting late and the motor was, well, cold.

Cylinder 1: 145
Cylinder 2: 135
Cylinder 3: 141
Cylinder 4: 140

Average: 140.25, Range: 10psi (Warm specs indicate 7psi between highest/lowest - someone confirm?)

Compression Test #2 - ~5900mi
Updated 10/30/2013
Alright guys, we did another compression test on a WARM motor this time. Here are the results:
Cylinder 1: 147
Cylinder 2: 147
Cylinder 3: 147
Cylinder 4: 147

Average: 147, Range: 0. Couldn't be any better! Again, no oil consumption between oil changes. I'm even dragging this one out to 3k miles (GTX 10-40 non syn), and no consumption before switching to T6 or AMSOIL.

---

That's all for now - I'll be updating as I go along. If I missed anything that you'd like to see, let me know. Let your thoughts spew!
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Last edited by Half Crazed; 02-02-2014 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:56 PM   #2
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Look's good My break in on my built motor was similiar to how you broke yours in. im at 15k miles on the motor and beating the piss out of her and zero oil consumption. Motor run's very strong, we will be doing a compression check done before we increase boost on the fp red from 20psi to 27psi.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostedbob View Post
Look's good My break in on my built motor was similiar to how you broke yours in. im at 15k miles on the motor and beating the piss out of her and zero oil consumption. Motor run's very strong, we will be doing a compression check done before we increase boost on the fp red from 20psi to 27psi.
Nice. Have you done a compression test before as well? How'd that turn out?

What turbo are you running 20psi with? Just curious of flow. Built motors shouldn't get 30psi right off the bat is what outfront told me, which was a rather cryptic message.. so we pushed 18 on a vf48 lol.

Turbo upgrade probably around 5k miles.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:30 PM   #4
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Looks/sounds good. I like hearing good stories of driving hard for break-in procedures.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
Looks/sounds good. I like hearing good stories of driving hard for break-in procedures.
Thanks man. I'm actually moving to Manchester, NH this weekend - which is really close to you! Would be cool to meet new people out there.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:05 PM   #6
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Clark Turner is a joke. Good work on the hard break in!! Its the right way imo
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:39 AM   #7
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Interesting, I actually haven't read bad things about hard break in but I also haven't looked hard for them either. I do hear a lot of skepticism about it however, so it's nice to have positive results.
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:09 AM   #8
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This is pretty much my procedure.

I use napa 5w30 for initial start up, check for leaks burp cooling system and let it run for about ten min after the temp gauge has reached "op temp"

dump oil get rid of the assembly lube that was in there and use the break in oil if you have new cams this is the time to run the motor at 2k for 10-15min to break the cams in.

Dump oil, and then go seat the rings. lots of vacuum and different loads in different gears. No need to go over 5K but the variance in different gears so you hit those loads and then the vacuum from those loads is what is going to give you good ring seal.


The biggest thing is making sure you do lots of vacuum (engine braking)

this pulls the ring material out of the cylinder that is being worn into those fresh cross hatchings. This is also why you change the oil right after ring seating. and for the 500 miles or so.

What this means is that you got proper ring seal. So Im not surprised you're not burning a drop or have smoke at start up because you did it properly.

If someone wants to put a no boost, 3k rev limit on your car for engine break in find another tuner.

ZDDP or an oil with a high zinc/phosphorus content is also crucial on a built engine.

-Phil
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:31 AM   #9
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Hey, glad to hear the engine is doing well!!

I don't have a turbo engine yet, but just a simple NA 2.5 block and 2.2 heads, but I used the hard break in with 10w40 supertech oil and lucas break in additive and so far it has only burned a pinch of oil only because it was over filled just a bit by like 1/4 quart.

Did 20 miles on first fill with hard pulls from 2.5/3k to 5500 rpms (6500 redline), then went to 650 or so on the second fill and then currently still on the 3rd fill (supertech 10w40 high mileage) at 1600 miles or so with around 2200 miles total on the engine. I put I think 4 ounces of the lucas break in stuff for the first fill and the second fill then 2 or so ounces for the 3rd fill. Oil is looking good and the level is good. Switching to something else on the next change in the next week or two.

I am also the believer now of a hard break in not only because of my research and what motoman has posted, but also because of my first hand experience now with a hard break in.

Which rotella are you going to switch too?

Thanks for posting this
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport View Post
This is pretty much my procedure.

I use napa 5w30 for initial start up, check for leaks burp cooling system and let it run for about ten min after the temp gauge has reached "op temp"

dump oil get rid of the assembly lube that was in there and use the break in oil if you have new cams this is the time to run the motor at 2k for 10-15min to break the cams in.

Dump oil, and then go seat the rings. lots of vacuum and different loads in different gears. No need to go over 5K but the variance in different gears so you hit those loads and then the vacuum from those loads is what is going to give you good ring seal.

The biggest thing is making sure you do lots of vacuum (engine braking)

this pulls the ring material out of the cylinder that is being worn into those fresh cross hatchings. This is also why you change the oil right after ring seating. and for the 500 miles or so.

What this means is that you got proper ring seal. So Im not surprised you're not burning a drop or have smoke at start up because you did it properly.

If someone wants to put a no boost, 3k rev limit on your car for engine break in find another tuner.

ZDDP or an oil with a high zinc/phosphorus content is also crucial on a built engine.

-Phil
Beautifully said. Exactly how me and Half Crazed broke it in. Couldnt agree more with Phil
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
Nice. Have you done a compression test before as well? How'd that turn out?

What turbo are you running 20psi with? Just curious of flow. Built motors shouldn't get 30psi right off the bat is what outfront told me, which was a rather cryptic message.. so we pushed 18 on a vf48 lol.

Turbo upgrade probably around 5k miles.
Hey Half Crazed,

I broke the motor in with a vf48 on E85, We did not do a compression test right away as I was always going out of town and no time to get it done with the builders work schedule.

The turbo I am running at the moment is a Fp Red and at 20 psi the thing pull's hard, very hard haha.

Maybe should have done a small build list, Ill give the quick and dirty.

Cr is at 9:2:1
Cometic HG
Cp Piston's 99.75
Eagle H-beam Rod's
Acl Race Bearing's

Not sure on the clearence waiting on the build sheet, but have been told by a few shop's(when im out of town)and by my buddy's tuner and mine. That I have a very quiet motor for having a built bottom end(still get piston slap cold morning's but nothing I cant deal with)
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Hey, glad to hear the engine is doing well!!

I don't have a turbo engine yet, but just a simple NA 2.5 block and 2.2 heads, but I used the hard break in with 10w40 supertech oil and lucas break in additive and so far it has only burned a pinch of oil only because it was over filled just a bit by like 1/4 quart.

Did 20 miles on first fill with hard pulls from 2.5/3k to 5500 rpms (6500 redline), then went to 650 or so on the second fill and then currently still on the 3rd fill (supertech 10w40 high mileage) at 1600 miles or so with around 2200 miles total on the engine. I put I think 4 ounces of the lucas break in stuff for the first fill and the second fill then 2 or so ounces for the 3rd fill. Oil is looking good and the level is good. Switching to something else on the next change in the next week or two.

I am also the believer now of a hard break in not only because of my research and what motoman has posted, but also because of my first hand experience now with a hard break in.

Which rotella are you going to switch too?

Thanks for posting this
I'll be switching to Shell's Rotella T6 full synthetic.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
Thanks man. I'm actually moving to Manchester, NH this weekend - which is really close to you! Would be cool to meet new people out there.
There's alot of good Subie guys out in Manchester and the surrounding cities. You'll have to check out Newenglandsubarus.com too. You'll only be about 35mins north of me.

Let me know how the switch to the T6 goes once you give it some good miles. I haven't changed my oil just yet and was wondering if I should stick with Motul (shops choice oil) or run the T6 (which I run in my jdm207 motored subie).
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:21 PM   #14
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BUMP! Added second compression test results.

Going to be sending in the oil samples here soon.. damnit, need to quit forgetting about this. Good thing they're sealed up!
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:13 PM   #15
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Glad to see!!! the p/w clearance looks nice and tight. Ive heard of a few running CPs on the tight side but not many. At least not folks that are posting.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:47 PM   #16
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Congrats!! That's great news.

I have no smoke from my oil filler but get a ton out the tail pipe. No consumption and oil looks brand new/clean.
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
Congrats!! That's great news.

I have no smoke from my oil filler but get a ton out the tail pipe. No consumption and oil looks brand new/clean.
You on a built block? would it be the oil from the residual blow by collecting and burning off on startup?
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Old 11-01-2013, 03:52 AM   #18
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at that ptw clearance, his cp's slap more than my wisecos at .0032
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
You on a built block? would it be the oil from the residual blow by collecting and burning off on startup?
I'm curious about this. I have a built shortblock with manley pistons and rods and sti crank and I also have the crawford AOS. I occasionally get white/blue smoke on a cold start but after driving it somewhat hard and starting it back up I also get a bit of smoke sometimes. smells like a damn two stroke lawnmower. I don't notice oil consumption however and the car runs great.

I'm going to check and see if there's any oil inside my tmic hoses and bypass valve whenever I get a chance.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by invaderzim View Post
I'm curious about this. I have a built shortblock with manley pistons and rods and sti crank and I also have the crawford AOS. I occasionally get white/blue smoke on a cold start but after driving it somewhat hard and starting it back up I also get a bit of smoke sometimes. smells like a damn two stroke lawnmower. I don't notice oil consumption however and the car runs great.

I'm going to check and see if there's any oil inside my tmic hoses and bypass valve whenever I get a chance.
Yup, that's the easiest way to check. Look at your throttle body for oil buildup too. maybe you have a clog somewhere, that crawford should definitely be removing most of the oil
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:26 PM   #21
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Just giving a update on my build (to help with add info to the OP post) will be getting a compression test done as soon as soon as scrounge up some funds.

Got a oil leak coming from one of my hard lines closest to the turbo inlet and beside the throttle body. Had to fill the car up with half a quart of oil, we replaced the copper o ring three times now and it's still leaking we are at a loss as to why it keeps blowing out.

Otherwise I did the oil fill tube check, no smoke idling, or at 2k Rpms. Also did the paper test and does what it's supposed to when running strong.

I have a slight mis fire on warm startups and need to wait about 10 seconds for it to clear, tuner doesn't know what to make of it, I have a new o2 sensor and new plugs gapped at 26 thousandths.

Otherwise car pulls very strong!

Once again no intention of thread jacking.

Last edited by Boostedbob; 11-01-2013 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:38 AM   #22
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I did a hard break in as well. Lots of engine braking. On Rotella T6 now after a generic Dino break in oil for first 3k miles. Zero oil consumption (knock on wood). About 4-5k miles in on T6 no issues. I didn't go over 15psi until engine broke in. Sitting around 22psi on a 56lb/min turbo. Probably pushing 350whp on 91 octane running ID1000. Good luck. Sounds like you are a smart fella and did things the correct way and did yer research. People should take note.
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:14 PM   #23
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What's new here? Running good I hope?
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:18 PM   #24
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Went one step colder ngk's. Plugged in correct barometer sensor (had the wrong part of the air pump delete still plugged in lol). Running t6. Strong and still pulling hard. Sending in oil for analysis this week!
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:08 PM   #25
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Great timing on posting your break-in process....so thank you to both the OP and Phil!

Will be nice to see the oil analysis too!
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