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Old 04-25-2013, 06:27 AM   #26
stanrc
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The noise is still there. I'll have to try checking the firewall for flex again.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:30 AM   #27
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Seeing as my creak has turning into loud popping this morning and is officially driving me ****ing nuts, I will be pulling my dashboard out and attempting a non-welding fix since I don't want to heat affect any more of the metal and set it up to just break again. When I checked the two spot welds under the cowl they were intact a couple weeks ago but who knows now. I'll report back with my results.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:37 PM   #28
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Hey P-Train. Let me know how it goes. I just took another 2009 to the dealership here in Knoxville and they said that they couldn't tell and they weren't going to pull the windshield wiper motor out either to look at it. They said it was the "clutch bushings" and that the whole assembly needed to be replaced. Go figure....

Anyway, I heard it myself and I know that it's the broken welds. I'm pulling the wiper motor tonight to take a look...
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:54 PM   #29
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Just got of the phone with SOA and the person I talked to did admit that she has seen a few of these cases, and has personally dealt with one of these firewall weld cases. She said to go take my car to a subaru dealership and get it diagnosed and we would go from their in terms of them "good willing" the repair beyond the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty. The rep will be in contact with me via email.

Ill keep you guy n gals posted within the next few weeks, since my schedule is tight and this is my only form of transportation I will see if I can schedule with my dealer within the next few weeks.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:00 PM   #30
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So I took my friends 09 to the dealership and they said "faulty clutch bushings" and it would be $500 to replace the entire assembly. They didn't take apart anything nor did they look under the wiper motor for stress/weld breaks. Sure enough I brought it to my house and here is what I found: two cracked welds under wiper motor and a clutch master cylinder that is moving all over the place. Thankfully he called the attorney today too. We should have the website up soon for more information....stay tuned!
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:10 PM   #31
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So I took my friends 09 to the dealership and they said "faulty clutch bushings" and it would be $500 to replace the entire assembly. They didn't take apart anything nor did they look under the wiper motor for stress/weld breaks. Sure enough I brought it to my house and here is what I found: two cracked welds under wiper motor and a clutch master cylinder that is moving all over the place. Thankfully he called the attorney today too. We should have the website up soon for more information....stay tuned!
Thanks keep us updated
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:03 AM   #32
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Alright folks so last night I took a whack at repairing this issue without welding. I pulled the dash out and found the infamous broken spot weld.

I took a couple of shots to try and give an idea exactly where it was because when I was researching it I had a little trouble visualizing exactly where this was.




So I was planning on doing a nut and bolt/ JB weld sort of fix. I found a pre-existing hole that was perfect for a 5/16" screw so I used that and drilled another though the part that had broken free.




I also hacked up some quick and dirty clamp and bolt system to hold everything together.



Mounting it up I used lock washers, Loctite and JB Weld anywhere I could. I wish I had more time to let the JB cure before I had to drive it but overall I'm happy with how this came out.









The whole set-up fit pretty well behind the dash with minimal interference. As for functionality, It works pretty well, the loud obnoxious popping is gone, but I still have a very slight creak. No where near as loud as it was before, quiet enough to be drowned out by wind noise if your window is down. I would have liked to machine up something a little nicer so the fit would be perfect, but I couldn't afford the downtime. (I had to give my Dad a ride to the airport this morning). We'll see how this holds up over time. But for now I at least feel better about driving it everyday through the city. If I'm feeling ambitious one day maybe I'll machine something nice up to replace this lol.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #33
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Alright folks so last night I took a whack at repairing this issue without welding. I pulled the dash out and found the infamous broken spot weld.

I took a couple of shots to try and give an idea exactly where it was because when I was researching it I had a little trouble visualizing exactly where this was.

So I was planning on doing a nut and bolt/ JB weld sort of fix. I found a pre-existing hole that was perfect for a 5/16" screw so I used that and drilled another though the part that had broken free.

I also hacked up some quick and dirty clamp and bolt system to hold everything together.

Mounting it up I used lock washers, Loctite and JB Weld anywhere I could. I wish I had more time to let the JB cure before I had to drive it but overall I'm happy with how this came out.

The whole set-up fit pretty well behind the dash with minimal interference. As for functionality, It works pretty well, the loud obnoxious popping is gone, but I still have a very slight creak. No where near as loud as it was before, quiet enough to be drowned out by wind noise if your window is down. I would have liked to machine up something a little nicer so the fit would be perfect, but I couldn't afford the downtime. (I had to give my Dad a ride to the airport this morning). We'll see how this holds up over time. But for now I at least feel better about driving it everyday through the city. If I'm feeling ambitious one day maybe I'll machine something nice up to replace this lol.
Damn good Job man with the garage ingenuity
-is the bolt that goes through horizontally through the firewall held down on the engine bay side with a nut?
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:50 PM   #34
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Everything is within the cabin. What I found once I pulled the dash out was that in the upper firewall area, there are a couple layers of metal welded together that make up some of the framework. So it was a tight fit for everything but there is a nut an washer on the back side. There was only about an inch or 2 of accessable metal on the backside to work with.
Since there are those couple layers of sheet metal there it makes it really hard to access the two spot welds that you can see under the cowl. If those go on me it might be a little more interesting than I thought to drill those out and through bolt em like I was planning. Hopefully I added enough structure to relieve some of the stress on those.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:08 PM   #35
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I have about 75k miles on my 08 wrx 5 door and I'm on my my 3rd clutch. I don't launch or race the car, but its mostly used as a daily. The brake pedal shifts a couple inches to the left whenever I step on the clutch. 2 reputable shops have told me that it is a safety issue that I need to get fixed. I hope SOA fixes this issue.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:15 PM   #36
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Everything is within the cabin. What I found once I pulled the dash out was that in the upper firewall area, there are a couple layers of metal welded together that make up some of the framework. So it was a tight fit for everything but there is a nut an washer on the back side. There was only about an inch or 2 of accessable metal on the backside to work with.
Since there are those couple layers of sheet metal there it makes it really hard to access the two spot welds that you can see under the cowl. If those go on me it might be a little more interesting than I thought to drill those out and through bolt em like I was planning. Hopefully I added enough structure to relieve some of the stress on those.
Quick question was your creaking noise constant or was it dependent temperature? Or length of time driven? My creaking noise is inconsistent as it only does it after driving the car for a while, sometimes just a few minutes or sometime no sound till after about 30 mins of driving.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:46 PM   #37
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My creaking noise was pretty inconsistent at first. If anything I'd say it would become more pronounced after driving for a little while. I did notice it would seem quieter in the mornings after a cold night until I drove for a bit. My noise worsened over the course of a few weeks though, to the point where it was always creaking. When it stopped creaking yesterday morning and began popping I decided it was time to a try and fix it.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:45 AM   #38
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My creaking noise was pretty inconsistent at first. If anything I'd say it would become more pronounced after driving for a little while. I did notice it would seem quieter in the mornings after a cold night until I drove for a bit. My noise worsened over the course of a few weeks though, to the point where it was always creaking. When it stopped creaking yesterday morning and began popping I decided it was time to a try and fix it.
Sounds like the same symptoms mine is having :-( , well in case SOA won't fix it and I have to take my dash apart do you have any links to an instruction manual on how to do that? Also did you have to remove the steering column as well?
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:11 PM   #39
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I didn't use a manual to pull the dash. It was more of a remove some screws and give it a tug operation. The best way to go about it is to pull the a pillar covers, and then work from the rear of the center console on up. Luckily the steering wheel and column don't have to come out. I will say there are a couple tricky spots that would have been nice to know about. The first one is in the center of the dash. There is a rearward facing screw that you need to get with a stubby screw driver inside the dash if you reach down through where the HVAC controls were, it's on the driver side. Directly across from it on the passenger side there is a nut on a stud thats easily accessible.

When you get to the air bag on the passenger side. Disconnect the battery, then the yellow connector, and there's two hex head screws that hold the air bag to the metal bracketry pull those two screws and it'll move with the whole dash (don't try to unhook the airbag, you'll see what I mean.

Make sure you pop out the clock and disconnect it. Its only held in with plastic tabs.

The Biggest bitch part of the whole pull IMO was the little hold down for the sun sensor wire at the you'll need to pop out the sensor, and disconnect it. You'll see that the wire its tied down at one point with a rearward facing screw up in the dash by the clock. With the air ducts in place its a bitch to get to. I had to use a little 1/4" ratcheting thing with one of the screw driver bits. It was the only thing I could fit in there. The stubby screw driver wouldn't even fit.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:23 PM   #40
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I have the squeaky clutch pedal and took it in at 35k before my warranty expired of course they said they could not replicate the noise. I attempted to show the tech a video I had taken of it but he said he couldn't hear it even though it was present. He said even if it was a broken weld it would be my fault due to my mods (TP stage 3) and would not be covered. I am at 43k now and out of warranty and it still persists goes away after some driving but I know it will get worse.

I know this should be a recall, welds should not break and SOA should admit the poblem an address it. Hopefully something great will come of this.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:13 PM   #41
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I have the squeaky clutch pedal and took it in at 35k before my warranty expired of course they said they could not replicate the noise. I attempted to show the tech a video I had taken of it but he said he couldn't hear it even though it was present. He said even if it was a broken weld it would be my fault due to my mods (TP stage 3) and would not be covered. I am at 43k now and out of warranty and it still persists goes away after some driving but I know it will get worse.

I know this should be a recall, welds should not break and SOA should admit the poblem an address it. Hopefully something great will come of this.
Have You tried calling SOA for a good faith repair on manufacture defect?

-Edit who the hell is it your fault that those welds are busted? Man these dealerships(edit steal-erships) call SOA ASAP man also there is a class action lawsuits started its on this forum.

Last edited by Subiezilla; 04-27-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:22 PM   #42
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I didn't use a manual to pull the dash. It was more of a remove some screws and give it a tug operation. The best way to go about it is to pull the a pillar covers, and then work from the rear of the center console on up. Luckily the steering wheel and column don't have to come out. I will say there are a couple tricky spots that would have been nice to know about. The first one is in the center of the dash. There is a rearward facing screw that you need to get with a stubby screw driver inside the dash if you reach down through where the HVAC controls were, it's on the driver side. Directly across from it on the passenger side there is a nut on a stud thats easily accessible.

When you get to the air bag on the passenger side. Disconnect the battery, then the yellow connector, and there's two hex head screws that hold the air bag to the metal bracketry pull those two screws and it'll move with the whole dash (don't try to unhook the airbag, you'll see what I mean.

Make sure you pop out the clock and disconnect it. Its only held in with plastic tabs.

The Biggest bitch part of the whole pull IMO was the little hold down for the sun sensor wire at the you'll need to pop out the sensor, and disconnect it. You'll see that the wire its tied down at one point with a rearward facing screw up in the dash by the clock. With the air ducts in place its a bitch to get to. I had to use a little 1/4" ratcheting thing with one of the screw driver bits. It was the only thing I could fit in there. The stubby screw driver wouldn't even fit.
Thanks for all the info your helping a lot of people out with your knowledge.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:30 PM   #43
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I contacted SOA and they said that they could check but if it wasn't the welds I would have to pay. The dealership that is closest to me is very shady and difficult to deal with and honestly I was afraid they would try to pull a quick one on me. It's sad really. The only thing warranty ever covered for me was a brake caliper and am engine coolant sensor I hardly ever took mine in. SOA also said I would have to pay for the repair up front and they would reimburse me. I don't have 1000 to pay up front.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:56 PM   #44
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I contacted SOA and they said that they could check but if it wasn't the welds I would have to pay. The dealership that is closest to me is very shady and difficult to deal with and honestly I was afraid they would try to pull a quick one on me. It's sad really. The only thing warranty ever covered for me was a brake caliper and am engine coolant sensor I hardly ever took mine in. SOA also said I would have to pay for the repair up front and they would reimburse me. I don't have 1000 to pay up front.
Damn, try going to another dealer, Im not taking mine to the one by my house because they have a bad reputation on both yelp and google reviews. Shady about warranty work 2
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:24 PM   #45
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I have decided to wait until its more pronounced to see if it will be covered them. However it should not be this big of a deal for a defect to be fixed.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:50 PM   #46
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Hey guys! The website will be up very soon for the class action lawsuit. It's moving quickly so if you haven't already, give Greg Coleman's office immediately about this at 865-247-0080.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:59 PM   #47
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I have decided to wait until its more pronounced to see if it will be covered them. However it should not be this big of a deal for a defect to be fixed.
Completely agree, but look how Toyota handled their accelerator issue a few years ago, a person had to die In order for them to admit their was an issue and creat a recall :-( unfortunately this is how automakers handle business, it's all about numbers and money.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:24 AM   #48
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Completely agree, but look how Toyota handled their accelerator issue a few years ago, a person had to die In order for them to admit their was an issue and creat a recall :-( unfortunately this is how automakers handle business, it's all about numbers and money.
Makes sense, Toyota becomes a huge share holder in Subaru and their product is having a big defect in the first year. Now they're are just saying screw you to certain customers, fixing the problem for some and temporally fixing for some.

I have a feeling the OLD Subaru wouldn't have treated their customers like this.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:15 PM   #49
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I agree Toyota has their hands too deep in Subaru now and it is killing the customer service. Almost wish GM was sill involved with Subaru. They offer much better customer service.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:43 PM   #50
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Clutch creak checking in. Also get a constant squealing noise when clutch depressed when the engine is on and not warmed (Not sure if its the TOB or what?)
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