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Old 05-24-2015, 03:17 PM   #1
Silkeeks
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Default Oil pan gasket ej257

How the hell did anyone get thus thing loose without pulling the motor. I can literally only pry from one spot and I'm not trying to knick the block. Help me! I'm going nuts over here.
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Old 05-24-2015, 03:36 PM   #2
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I just pryed it til it popped. Knicked the mounting surface on the block where i pryed it but since it uses liquid gasket maker the gasket maker fills in the knick. Doesn't leak(on mine anyway). Just did it for a second time yeaterday.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkeeks View Post
How the hell did anyone get thus thing loose without pulling the motor. I can literally only pry from one spot and I'm not trying to knick the block. Help me! I'm going nuts over here.
In order to get to all the bolts on the pan especially the backside where the tranny connects to the block there really isn't a way to get to them without jacking the engine up enough. Don't need to break one of the small bolts off in the underside of the block.

Get a long flat head screw driver. Or you can jack up your engine about 1 inch 1/2 if you undo the dog bone/pitching stopper and the motor mount nuts. Would give some additional room to work with.

Use permatex black rtv sealant which is resistant to oil which can be bought at Autozone or O'reillys. Apply a nice smooth thin layer to the oil pan. The oil pan gasket thing is a gimmick, do NOT listen to anyone who says to use a premade gasket....
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:48 PM   #4
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I finally got it off. I got the black permatex stuff. Getting to the bolts wasn't even hard I jacked the motor/trans up a little and used a nice snap on ball swivel universal joint 1/4 drive. I recommend them. Getting the pan loose was the hardest part by far.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:32 PM   #5
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Shoulda got the grey.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:37 PM   #6
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a dead blow hammer works wonders to get the pans off

and do NOT overtorque them when you re-install them!!!!!!

they snap off in a heartbeat...

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 05-24-2015 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:31 PM   #7
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Shoulda got the grey.
Why is that?
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
a dead blow hammer works wonders to get the pans off

and do NOT overtorque them when you re-install them!!!!!!

they snap off in a heartbeat...
I used the dead blow, a heat gun, and a putty knife.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkeeks View Post
Why is that?
wellllll........if ya look at the materials substitution chart....the grey is the closest substitute for the fujibond that is specified in the fsm

the grey is rigid...or more rigid than the black, anyway.... which is what the factory stuff is.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:33 PM   #10
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wellllll........if ya look at the materials substitution chart....the grey is the closest substitute for the fujibond that is specified in the fsm

the grey is rigid...or more rigid than the black, anyway.... which is what the factory stuff is.
I just did the black because it's high oil resistance and high temp. I'm sure it will work just fine.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkeeks View Post
I just did the black because it's high oil resistance and high temp. I'm sure it will work just fine.
no..the black will work fine

any of the 'ultra' products should be fine....but there are differences and sometimes one is better for some reason or another
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:36 AM   #12
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Ok since I sat through a Permatex Rep's presentation once, I'll give you the skinny.


Ultra = Updated formula any time a new oil comes out. So for example when the EPA mandated the shift from CI-4 to CJ-4 oil in diesels, the Ultra compounds got certified to be compatible.

Black = good for engine oils

Grey = good for synthetic engine oils



The black will work, but Permatex doesn't claim it to be a permanent repair when used with synthetic oils. So you may find yourself doing the job again down the road.


But if you're gangster, you'll go get yourself a Felpro cork pan gasket.

Last edited by CosmoTheCat; 05-25-2015 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:26 AM   #13
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Ok since I sat through a Permatex Rep's presentation once, I'll give you the skinny.


Ultra = Updated formula any time a new oil comes out. So for example when the EPA mandated the shift from CI-4 to CJ-4 oil in diesels, the Ultra compounds got certified to be compatible.

Black = good for engine oils

Grey = good for synthetic engine oils



The black will work, but Permatex doesn't claim it to be a permanent repair when used with synthetic oils. So you may find yourself doing the job again down the road.


But if you're gangster, you'll go get yourself a Felpro cork pan gasket.


a cork gasket
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:31 AM   #14
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When I was working at an independent shop, I was the first time a cork gasket showed up in my parts box.

I didn't use it.


The next time, I was


But seriously. They make one.

It's a "Best Seller"

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...FeroFPOS30656C
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Old 05-25-2015, 02:48 AM   #15
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Well, the ultra grey specifically states for being used for high torque situations which the oil pan is NOT. But either the black or the grey will work fine.

What is MORE important is how a person preps the oil pan mating surface and how they spread the sealant out. A smooth flat layer is the better bet, much less chance of irregularities compared to doing a bead and have it squeeze out and stuff.
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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It may say high torque, but their suggested applications say a different story.

Have you sat through the manufacturer's product pitch? I have. I've got pages of notes, somewhere, on all of their automotive products.


Quote:
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, transmission pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....RCy7dwDs.dpuf
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
It may say high torque, but their suggested applications say a different story.

Have you sat through the manufacturer's product pitch? I have. I've got pages of notes, somewhere, on all of their automotive products.
Here's the thing, even though I haven't sat through any of the manufacturers product stuff, I know from personal use and other people on here and other subaru sites that the black or grey works great. My first oil pump reseal was on an ej22 shortblock that now has 217k miles. It has around 20-25k miles on it after I resealed it and it is bone dry. Did it with the black rtv sealant from permatex.

In this case, both will work that has been proven so to the OP, the black will be fine and the grey would of done fine to. Just make sure to prep the pap properly.
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:33 AM   #18
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I cleaned the **** out of both surfaces haha. No gasket was left on there after I cleaned them.
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkeeks View Post
I cleaned the **** out of both surfaces haha. No gasket was left on there after I cleaned them.
If you haven't sealed it up, take like 400 grit sand paper and sand down the mating surface on the pan going with the circumference of the pan. Will give something for the sealant to adhere to.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:34 PM   #20
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If you haven't sealed it up, take like 400 grit sand paper and sand down the mating surface on the pan going with the circumference of the pan. Will give something for the sealant to adhere to.
I used a wire brush and adhesive remover to get the factory gasket off and that scored the surface nicely.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Here's the thing, even though I haven't sat through any of the manufacturers product stuff, I know from personal use and other people on here and other subaru sites that the black or grey works great. My first oil pump reseal was on an ej22 shortblock that now has 217k miles. It has around 20-25k miles on it after I resealed it and it is bone dry. Did it with the black rtv sealant from permatex.

In this case, both will work that has been proven so to the OP, the black will be fine and the grey would of done fine to. Just make sure to prep the pap properly.
Do you use synthetic oil in that EJ22?

What the guy said is that while one would work, they don't consider it a "forever" fix. It might be just fine, or it might not. That's why they make different products that are specifically for various fluids - one for gear oil, one for ATF, etc.

But his ultimate recommendation, especially in a shop environment, is to use The Right Stuff. It's not RTV silicone. It's elastomeric rubber. Silicone based stuff is supposed to cure for HOURS before you add fluid. Elastomeric rubber is good to go in minutes.

When I do a reseal at home, I use the grey three bond, and I let it set up. At work, definitely three bond and I let it set up as much as possible.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:46 AM   #22
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I appreciate the input everyone but the good news is; it's not leaking! Haha.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:56 AM   #23
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Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker:

This is a gasket material and not just a silicone sealant and would be appropriate for the oil-pan and in place of the FujiBond sealant.

The "high torque" has nothing to do with how many Lb/ft the fasteners affixing the item are torqued to; this is with regard to how much the gasket-material will take an imposed load and stretch.

If you can obtain the FujiBond sealant, great and if not, use the Permatex Ultra Grey.
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