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Old 04-25-2013, 10:37 PM   #1
Lateralis
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OMGHi2U Ipad mini, 4-way active install in my 2012 STi Ltd

Hi, I'm Lateralis, and I like to #$% around with my car.

I'm documenting this build in a new thread as its not going to be any where near the same as my old one. New ideas, new equipment, new love/hate fabrication journey.

Anyway, I previously had a fairly extensive build revolving around the stock Fujitsu Ten Navigation head unit in my 2012 STi Limited found here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2298834

Quick run down of what I "was" running.

Hybrid Audio - L1R2 Pro Tweeters - in stock sail location
Hybrid Audio - L4 Mid Ranges - in kick pods
Hybrid Audio - L6 Mid Woofers - stock door location
No rear Fill
2- Dayton HO-10's - 1.3cu 30hz ported box

Stock Fujitsu Ten Navigation Head Unit
JBL MS-8 Sound Processor
2- Apline PDX 4.100 amps
1- Alpine M-12 mono amp
DC Power Engineering 180 amp H/O alternator
XS power 5100R battery

Overall, I was really pleased with the SQ of my build. It was on point and never failed to put a smile on my face. BUUUT, some things were missing and other things annoyed me to the point that i decided to upgrade a bit.

Old set up gripes:

1- Tonally, I really liked the L4's in the kicks. They did a very good job down by my feet. What I didn't like was the praticality of it. People getting in and out of the car would kick the ^&%* out of the pods. Not cool. Also the dead peddle was accesible, but it just wasn't practical to use anymore as it was shoe dependent if i could get my foot on it. So... It gots to go!

2- The JBL MS-8. Quick set up... AWESOME. Adjustability for XO and slopes, NIGHTMARE! You can't isolate speakers for specific tuning and settings, and if you want to change anything you have to go through a 30 minute auto tune session. Can you say annoying? Also the real deal breaker for me with it was getting the damn thing to get me some solid mid bass. Tried all the little tricks on DIYMA, and I just couldn't get it where I wanted it. I just want more user control and adjustability. Learned the hard $$ way on that one.

3- Sub bass. Was good solid and punchy. Very accurate base and it wasn't localized, which is nice. What I didn't like was that it I didn't feel "athourity" from it. I could hear nice clean bass, but it didn't envlope me and make me feel I wanted it too.

4- Stock H/U. For average users its a nice decent unit. Leaps and bounds above any other "stock" h/u that Subaru has provided. I mess with my constantly. Changing songs, stations, sources, etc. Its lackluster ability copared to other things was starting to get on my nerves. The gps is also pretty useless IMO. It works, but 9 times out of 10 I found myself using my Iphone GPS vice the damn H/U.

5- Amps, I had a fairly High noise floor with the amps. They are solid and haven't let me down, but the when I put in the MS-8 and had some serious quality speakers in there I really started noticing the noise floor. Not cool.


The new setup in whole:

Ipad Mini
Istreamer DAC
Pioneer DEH-80PRS
ZAPCO DSP Z-8
Hybrid Audio Technologies L1R2 PRO Tweeters
Hybrid Audio Technologies L4 Mid Range
Hybrid Audio Technologies L6V1 Mid Bass
Peerless SLS 6.5" Mid bass
2- JL Audio W6V2's in seperate sealed boxes
Zapco Z 150.6
Zapco STD-2
Alpined PDX-M12
DC Power Engineering 180 High out put alternator
XS Power 5100R Battery
Knuconeptz 1/0, 4, 12 Gauge wire

The idea:

Mount the Ipad Mini where the stock unit is. Remote mount the face plate of the 80PRS in the little cubby below HVAC controls. Mount the Body of the 80PRS under the drivers seat. Run some true rear fill. Re-locate both the tweeters and the midranges into the A-pillars.

I haven't figured out all the details on the rear fill yet. The Idea is to get a time dealyed "mono" signal ranged around 100-3khz. I haven't gotten my hands on the DSP Z-8 yet and am unsure if I can use the ch 7/8 as a rear fill channel or if its for center only. If not I'll see what I can do running the rear speakers off of the 80PRS itself. Another Idea for it is running the rear pre-outs to an old Alpine PDX 1.600 and running the L6's in series to get an 8ohm load and bring the power down to around 300w. Still fumbling around with other options for this though.

Anyway Speaker configuration and freq ranges and slopes will probably look something like this:

Front stage
L1R2- 3k hz High pass at 12 db
L4 - 300 hz - 3k hz band pass at 12 db
sls - 50 hz - 300 hz band pass 36/24 db for 50 hz, 12 db for 300 hz

Rear
Mono signal, L6 - 100-200hz - 2-3khz band pass at 12 db

Subs
25hz- 60hz 12/24 db.

Nice thing with the dps z-8 is I will be able to easily mess with the crossover points and db slopes easily and see how the speakers do with the selected ranges.

I've already did some fiber glass work for the sub enclosures, Ipad mini, and the 80PRS face plate. I don't have any pictures uploaded yet but I will start posting up pics as I progress to keep this as visual as possible with less jabbering.

This will take a while to fully complete. YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!!

ANNNNDDD....

Here's the whip

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Last edited by Lateralis; 08-20-2013 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:00 AM   #2
Lateralis
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Ok so I'll start with the butchering of my brand spanking new pioneer DEH-80PRS.

The face plate.




The face plates guts!





Some soldering action.



Followed by some hot glue action.



Sealed up.



The hook ups!
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #3
antnygee
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this way awesome! and way above anything i would ever do haha!
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:15 AM   #4
Lateralis
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Side of the head unit.



Connectors from the backside of the face plate.



Annnd the bish lives!



Ok so real quick n dirty what I did. I had a good length of cat5e cable laying around. Stripped it down and soldered them to the base of all the pins on the pcb of the face plate and the body pcb from the h/u. The solder joints are fragile so I reinforced them with the hot glue on both ends. Had to cut up the plastic a bit to accommodate it but whatever. I terminated the loose ends with female splice connectors. I needed 3 for each side. Cat5e cable has 8 24ga lines. Well my stupid fancy head unit has 20 pin connectors. So I had to do 3 cables. Since I ran the female ends its now modular and I can pretty much put the body of the head unit or the faceplate where ever I want.

Winning? I think so.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:47 PM   #5
Karyuko
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Good idea to use RJ-45 connections. Looks clean too
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:17 PM   #6
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hey man, i see you're in AZ...Ill PM you, see what area you in.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:07 AM   #7
Lateralis
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Here's some little update with random pictures with no specific order.

Some head unit gut shots:





Little hard to see but here but this is where I'm going to relocate the face plate.



Another shot of the face plate actually working... with it outside the car lol



Trunk liners taped up.



Pam is your friend.....



Popped out of the liner.





Some test fit stuff



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Old 04-30-2013, 12:11 AM   #8
Lateralis
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Last one I got uploaded for now is the ipad mini and head unit face plate base's setting up so I got something to work with for mounting them.



Word of caution for whoever wants to attempt anything similiar. Make sure you have a very good tape job so that resin does not make it through the tape! Also use something that will let the mold release or you are going to have a hell of a time getting it off once the resin sets.

That's it for now. More to follow.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:41 AM   #9
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this is great work, thanks for sharing!
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:07 PM   #10
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Very nice! Really liking the Cat5 idea for keeping things modular.

Is there any worry about warping when 'glassing the panels outside of the car? I'm getting prepared to start my first FG project, so I have no personal experience. Just figured the pop clips would help hold everything together with any expansion/contraction.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:49 PM   #11
Lateralis
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Their is some concern. Not expansion/contraction though. Mostly the added wieght to the panel making the peice bend and set to a shape you don't want. It just depends on how sturdy the peice you are glassing is. The rear tub liners I found were pretty stiff and didn't flex on me when glassing. Make sure for your 1st go dont do more then 2-3 layers at a time. Once that has set up and you can handle the piece take it out of the mold and continue to add layers then.

I normally do this in the car but this is my daily driver. I couldn't afford to glass up a section and let it setup since I need to use my car. I didn't have any fitment issues sticking everything back in.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:33 PM   #12
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Awesome, thanks!
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:43 AM   #13
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The remote faceplate is a pretty neat idea. Any troubles with ejecting CDs? I've heard some HUs won't pop the disc out unless the faceplate is disconnected. I know you probably won't be touching the CD player very much with the location it's going in, but it's nice to have it if you need it.

That DEH-80PRS is probably the classiest looking single-DIN unit on the market with the exception of the DEX-P99RS.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:15 PM   #14
Lateralis
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For the 80PRS, it has a button that is pushed in when the head unit is in place that turns on the face plate. I actually havent tried putting a CD in and seeing if it will eject or not. I figured that if need be since it is modular i just disconnect the cables and be good. I'm fairly certain that you just have to ensure the button isn't depressed and you're good. I'll try it out later and post up a couple of pics of what i did for that button.

I was in a toss up between the 80prs and the p99. For what I'm doing though the 80prs is exactly what I need. The p99 is over kill and I wouldn't even be using half the features the head unit has to offer since I'm using an external DSP. I really wanted to use an Alpine head unit though. The U/I is much better and they don't scream "cheep" like the Pioneers. Those are probably my 2 biggest downers for the Pioneer. I do like the minimalist look to the 80PRS and P99, but the face plate feels and looks cheep and the U/I is a bit of a pain to navigate. The features that it packs and expandability for the system is second to none though and that's why I went with the Pioneer.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:24 PM   #15
Lateralis
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And for Shiz and giggles I made an awesome MS Paint layout graphic! lol... Made a couple changes on amp selection too.

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Old 05-06-2013, 04:58 PM   #16
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Lol nice. Almost like you used Visio.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #17
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When I see someone using Peerless I instantly consider them an aristocrat and a scholar. Their car audio subs are effing a.m.a.z.i.n.g. for the $.

Peerless also supplies raw speakers to a metric s*** ton of speaker manufacturers.



Also... im curious what you have done with the MS-8?
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:13 PM   #18
Lateralis
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The SLS's are pretty impressive looking as compared to anything else I've dealt with for 6.5". Still haven't gotten a chance to listen to them yet.

The setup has changed up a little bit since last time I posted. I have all the amps and the sound processor now. I opted for the Zapco Z-150.6, Zapco STD-2, and re-using my Alpine PDX M-12. Currently I'm planning on re-using my JL W6V2's instead of getting the V3's for now too. I decided to go with the 6ch vice the 2 4 channels as a just in case type deal. It will be easier to take a little 2 ch amp out of the equation then redoing the 4 ch amps if I cant get the rear speakers dialed in for what I'm trying to do with them.

As for the MS-8. It's sitting in a box right now. Not sure what I'm going to do with it. Might give it to my pops or something lol.

Since I got all me parts now I'll try to keep this more up to date and post pictures.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:21 PM   #19
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I will be waiting for updates.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lateralis View Post
The SLS's are pretty impressive looking as compared to anything else I've dealt with for 6.5". Still haven't gotten a chance to listen to them yet.

The setup has changed up a little bit since last time I posted. I have all the amps and the sound processor now. I opted for the Zapco Z-150.6, Zapco STD-2, and re-using my Alpine PDX M-12. Currently I'm planning on re-using my JL W6V2's instead of getting the V3's for now too. I decided to go with the 6ch vice the 2 4 channels as a just in case type deal. It will be easier to take a little 2 ch amp out of the equation then redoing the 4 ch amps if I cant get the rear speakers dialed in for what I'm trying to do with them.

As for the MS-8. It's sitting in a box right now. Not sure what I'm going to do with it. Might give it to my pops or something lol.

Since I got all me parts now I'll try to keep this more up to date and post pictures.

Ill be your pappy!

The SLS will move some air. I think youll be pleased. They are similar (ive found) to Hertz 165L's but has a better bass extension.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:50 PM   #21
Lateralis
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^^ lol, the ms-8 is a pretty neat piece of gear. Unfortunately I just couldn't get the mid bass out of the damn thing even after shifting thru the humongous ms-8 thread on diyma. It did get better, but it was still lacking pretty bad. My stock h/u with no amps was pushing more mid bass then the ms-8! The thing is just a pain to setup and adjust if you don't like something. You're looking at 30 mins of tune time for 1 setting. Dot like the crossover points and what to mix things up? Add another 30 min retune. You can't just change one thing and move on. You have to redo everything....

Anyways mini update. The deh-80prs, dsp-z8, pdx m12, and all new power and front stage wire are in. Ill get some pics of those later. I put the 80prs and the z8 next to each other under the passenger seat. The m12 is under the drivers seat. I'm making an amp rack for the z-150.6 and std-2 to go in the trunk on the sloped section. Ill lose some pass though but I will still be able to use it.

Here is a shot of my extended antenna cable I made. I took the adapter cable I got from svdx, took it apart and made it about 6ft. No extra connections just one legit antenna adapter lol.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:00 PM   #22
Lateralis
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Next I'm working on making RCA cables and I got a lot to make. Here's a rid bit of what I got.









If you look close you will notice where the wires split one section is longer then the other. I did that on purpose. Shorter sections signifies that the shield is grounded on that end. You want the shield shorted on the end of the RCAs that will connect to that sections "source".
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:49 PM   #23
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Quality equipment for sure. You will not be dissapointed with the SLS's.
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:41 PM   #24
Lateralis
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So I've made some progress. Everything is completely wired up except the subs. Haven't worked on the sub boxes in a while... Pics don't show it but the amps are fully wired up. I'm planning on getting some plexi glass to cover my 2 make shift amp racks. Anyways pics:







^^ that's under the passenger seat.



^^ I made a Velcro switch depresser thingy do dad hickey. Works pretty good and is easy to remove if I need to put a cd in.

More to follow...
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:46 PM   #25
Lateralis
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Well I finally powered it up, minus the subs, and everything works! I got quite a few growing pains with the Zapco DSP as its documentations is garbage, but once I got it up its pretty damn cool. It did give me the option straight up for rear fill. So right now the rears are being fed a mono rear signal with 22ms of time delay.

So far everything is working the way it's supposed to. Here's a quick list of things I need to finish.....

1) pillars... fml.... the mid ranges and tweeters are getting relocated there.
2) Ipad mini mount in dash
3) Remote face plate mount, pretty close to being done with that actually.
4) sub boxes. Yeah i know... I'm slow...
5) Finish off trunk. IE: plexi glass covers for racks, covers for side of amp racks, and new floor. Shouldn't be too hard.... i think... lol

Anyways, I'll get some more crappy Iphone pics up of the completed amp rack wiring. Nothing special but it's super easy to work with and trouble shoot.
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