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Old 04-30-2013, 01:32 AM   #1
SSS4
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Default 2011 STi reliability?

Hello guys, I am in the market for a new car and looking into a 2011 STi. I am coming from a built 2001 B5 S4. I am looking for a new,fun, awd turbo car and STi seems the fit the bill perfectly. I have been dealing with issues for years now on my S4 and just ready to move on to something stock, and reliable. My question is, if the STi is left stock, with required fluid changes done, is it a fairly reliable car? I know most people do not buy these cars to leave stock, but I am just looking to replace my S4 with something comparable and letting it as is. Also, is the STi a decent DD in stock trim? I would like to do some road trips in it aswell. I realize the gas mi is not the greatest, but its better than what I getting now in the 2.7TT. I just do not want to buy a pretty expensive vehicle and end up putting money into it. Thank you for any insight or opinions.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:44 AM   #2
Lrn2Corner
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watch out for number 4 piston ring lands going out on you. thats about it. get a proper tune on it and if you want to go further then get some forged pistons.

enjoy.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:49 AM   #3
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There is a reason that people are selling 2004 Sti's with 100k miles for 20 grand. /thread
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:54 AM   #4
Lrn2Corner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondo007man View Post
There is a reason that people are selling 2004 Sti's with 100k miles for 20 grand. /thread
theres a difference between supply/demand and reliability. the value of a car 9/10 has nothing to do with the later. nice try though, because with that idea a base corolla from the 80s would sell for far more than how much it left the lot for.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:18 AM   #5
Jones89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSS4 View Post
Hello guys, I am in the market for a new car and looking into a 2011 STi. I am coming from a built 2001 B5 S4. I am looking for a new,fun, awd turbo car and STi seems the fit the bill perfectly. I have been dealing with issues for years now on my S4 and just ready to move on to something stock, and reliable. My question is, if the STi is left stock, with required fluid changes done, is it a fairly reliable car? I know most people do not buy these cars to leave stock, but I am just looking to replace my S4 with something comparable and letting it as is. Also, is the STi a decent DD in stock trim? I would like to do some road trips in it aswell. I realize the gas mi is not the greatest, but its better than what I getting now in the 2.7TT. I just do not want to buy a pretty expensive vehicle and end up putting money into it. Thank you for any insight or opinions.
like mentioned by other members. a tune is your best bet. the stock fuel map is utter ****. my 2010 sti went 23k miles on stock tune without a single misfire, thank god. i bought it at 22k miles, went stage 2 w/ tune and its solid as can be. warranty is always an issue, honestly your safer with a tune than how it comes out of the assembly plant.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:36 AM   #6
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Thank you for the replys. I will look into software. Is the regular wrx and the sti's the same as far as reliability? I apologize for the noob questions, just trying to wrap my head around things. Just trying to make sure i am not getting myself into another mx hog, thanks again.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lrn2Corner View Post
theres a difference between supply/demand and reliability. the value of a car 9/10 has nothing to do with the later. nice try though, because with that idea a base corolla from the 80s would sell for far more than how much it left the lot for.

Think he was trying to say that they make it to 100K and are still in good enough shape that they can command such a nice price(for the seller). Pointing directly at it's reliability.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:58 AM   #8
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If your looking for reliability stay away from subaru. The n/a's blow head gaskets and the turbos pop pistons and spin bearings.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allfours View Post
If your looking for reliability stay away from subaru. The n/a's blow head gaskets and the turbos pop pistons and spin bearings.
Don't listen to this guy, he is clearly a moron.

Reliability all depends on how well you maintain your car.

If you don't change your oil, check the level, or use the wrong oil, you will spin bearings.

If you beat the crap out of your car, mod it without tuning it, you will blow pistons.

If you continuously let the car overheat, you will blow headgaskets.

Any car with high miles will begin to develop problems, that is just simple breakdown.

Reliability is 100% dependent on how well you maintain it.

Like any car, Subarus can be very reliable when properly maintained. Or they can be the most unreliable cars ever made if you ignore the essential maintenance.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:08 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by allfours View Post
If your looking for reliability stay away from subaru. The n/a's blow head gaskets and the turbos pop pistons and spin bearings.
Ehhh every car has a Achilles heel. Spec V's have an issue where the pre-cat in the exhaust manifold break apart, get sucked in the engine, and then you shop for a new engine.

In regards to 2011 STI reliability, I'd say they're known to be pretty reliable assuming to can get a time machine and go back and buy one new. Go look in the General and Newbie section. I can't tell you how many threads start with "Just picked up a 20xx <WRX or STI> X months/weeks ago, CEL light is on" Unfortunately these cars tend to get abused so there is a higher than average chance you will run into issues. Pair that with the high resale value and you could end up spending more on an old WRX/STI + repairs than you would just buying a new one.

Last edited by Brent22; 04-30-2013 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:56 AM   #11
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If you want reliability, getting a Cobb stage 1 tune or a protune even with all the stock parts on it. That's just if you're really picky.. even with the stock tune, it's 'ok'. People say it can run lean in some places.. the tune helps solve this.

As for the guy stating about NA headgaskets.. yeah, they do eventually go. Our Forester is at 150k miles and is just starting to see headgasket trouble. At 150k, I'd expect some larger maintenance items. We haven't done anything else on it besides the timing belt.

As far as turbo Subarus go, using a good quality oil and changing it every 3-4k helps a ton. Many people neglect simple things like that, letting oil run dry or way too long when they beat on it every day.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:14 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by JustyWRC View Post
Think he was trying to say that they make it to 100K and are still in good enough shape that they can command such a nice price(for the seller). Pointing directly at it's reliability.
i probably should have also pointed out the FD3s, horribly unreliable but iconic and has the reputation of being one of the purest sports cars in the world and holds its value so well that finding a pristine one would cost you almost retail price.

Last I checked they go for 12-40k still depending on condition and mileage. That backs up my assertion that reliability don't mean a damn thing on the value of the vehicle, its supply and demand. Each facelift for the GD only had 2 years running with small changes here and there which also bumps up the value.

The only ones lasting 100k are taken care of by a professional mechanic who owns it, or are unmolested and driven by pansies who never open it up. in that case I would shell out decent money for one.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:23 AM   #13
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If you're buying a fairly new car, as others have stated, it all depends on how well you maintain.

(On stock parts) - Change fluids, don't rev the engine until it's warmed up, don't idle to warm up or try not to idle period, don't launch, don't WOT to redline every chance you get... follow these rules and any car will last you a long time with no hassle of expensive repairs.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:27 AM   #14
nmlittlebigman
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The car will only be as reliable as how well you maintain/monitor it. The best thing that you can do is buy and AP or use OS software like Romraider and learn to log/monitor your tune. Even a small intake tract leak can cause big trouble. Pay attention to the little things and you should be fine. I have an '11 and it's a great DD and comfortable on trips.
I get 21-22 mpg with a Stage 2 setup.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSS4 View Post
Thank you for the replys. I will look into software. Is the regular wrx and the sti's the same as far as reliability? I apologize for the noob questions, just trying to wrap my head around things. Just trying to make sure i am not getting myself into another mx hog, thanks again.
Here it is as easy as can be:

Go get 2011 STi
Go get Cobb Accessport
Install and enjoy.

That being said, if you are concerned about reliability you should get a NEW STi or WRX, so you are the only owner. A 2011 could have been modified or ridden hard or whatever. Also you need to decide if you 'need' an STi. If you just want something fast and fun with AWD to get to and from work, maybe just get a NEW WRX for the price of a used 2011 STi, put a Cobb Accessport tune on and enjoy. It just wouldn't handle as well but would be plenty fun.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:53 AM   #16
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If you're not going to modify the car, buy the extended warranty and leave it stock.

Why risk tuning it when you could still have ringland failure and not be covered? I think that the dealer will cover that particular failure twice. Should that happen to occur twice, I would then go with a tune and aftermarket forged pistons.

Otherwise, you're rolling the dice.

Could an aftermarket tune save you from ringland failure? Maybe.
Are there examples of STi's with aftermarket tunes still have ringland failure? Yes.
Could an aftermarket tune cause the dealer to laugh at you if it happens anyway and you ask for warranty coverage? Most likely.

Thorough and firm break-in, with religious maintenance using some of the best-rated 5w30 full synths you can get, in addition to some of the things mentioned above like not driving the car hard while cold, avoiding long idle times, etc will all play a factor in the overall health and condition of your STi, will allowing you the keep your warranty.

Not to begin a which oil is best debate, but the owner's manual states that 5w40 is ONLY allowed for "top-offs"; it is NOT allowed for full oil changes.

Should you want to keep the car stock, this is the route I'd recommend. It will allow you to retain your warranty should anything happen to the car (i.e ringland failure), which could happen to even if you "get a good tune".

Lastly, and personally, I would not buy a used "performance" vehicle. There's no telling what the previous owner did to it (modded, brought back to stock, beat the **** out of it, etc.)
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:53 AM   #17
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A big group of you guys really aggravate me with your quotes (They spin bearings, the stock maps suck, mobil 5w-30 sucks, ect. ect.) You guys obviously don't know how to take care of your damn car, or you guys beat on your car and expect it will just take it. Don't blame the car because you put it through it's paces, you are to blame.

Also just because one guy says something is crap now you all think its crap. You guys make me feel like I got the gem of the batch because my car ran nothing but Mobil 1 5w-30 on a stock tune for 100k miles and I now have been running stage 2 for 12k miles and no ring land cracked or spun bearing or what have you.

OP these are great cars, mine is at 112k with many more to go and no issues, just regular maintenance. Don't treat the car like a retard and you'll have a long lasting car.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUMBERZACK View Post
A big group of you guys really aggravate me with your quotes (They spin bearings, the stock maps suck, mobil 5w-30 sucks, ect. ect.) You guys obviously don't know how to take care of your damn car, or you guys beat on your car and expect it will just take it. Don't blame the car because you put it through it's paces, you are to blame.

Also just because one guy says something is crap now you all think its crap. You guys make me feel like I got the gem of the batch because my car ran nothing but Mobil 1 5w-30 on a stock tune for 100k miles and I now have been running stage 2 for 12k miles and no ring land cracked or spun bearing or what have you.

OP these are great cars, mine is at 112k with many more to go and no issues, just regular maintenance. Don't treat the car like a retard and you'll have a long lasting car.
best advice here
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:17 AM   #19
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i've owned three wrx's. 2 04's and 1 2011.

I drove the 04s a lot harder than MY11 and have never had any problems.

I do 3k mile oil changes and only use shell premium. <5 gallons of other gas since it left the lot.

if you're buying used do a compression test and maybe a leak down?
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lrn2Corner View Post
theres a difference between supply/demand and reliability. the value of a car 9/10 has nothing to do with the later. nice try though, because with that idea a base corolla from the 80s would sell for far more than how much it left the lot for.
Actually it's funny you mention that because AE86 Corollas are a perfect example of it.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #21
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Actually it's funny you mention that because AE86 Corollas are a perfect example of it.
I blame Initial D for that!
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessekrs123 View Post
Don't listen to this guy, he is clearly a moron.

Reliability all depends on how well you maintain your car.

If you don't change your oil, check the level, or use the wrong oil, you will spin bearings.

If you beat the crap out of your car, mod it without tuning it, you will blow pistons.

If you continuously let the car overheat, you will blow headgaskets.

Any car with high miles will begin to develop problems, that is just simple breakdown.

Reliability is 100% dependent on how well you maintain it.

Like any car, Subarus can be very reliable when properly maintained. Or they can be the most unreliable cars ever made if you ignore the essential maintenance.
I am pretty rough with my cars and they survive me. That is why I love them as much as I do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lrn2Corner View Post
i probably should have also pointed out the FD3s, horribly unreliable but iconic and has the reputation of being one of the purest sports cars in the world and holds its value so well that finding a pristine one would cost you almost retail price.

Last I checked they go for 12-40k still depending on condition and mileage. That backs up my assertion that reliability don't mean a damn thing on the value of the vehicle, its supply and demand. Each facelift for the GD only had 2 years running with small changes here and there which also bumps up the value.

The only ones lasting 100k are taken care of by a professional mechanic who owns it, or are unmolested and driven by pansies who never open it up. in that case I would shell out decent money for one.
Wow. Really? Don't know whether to or , but I will leave it at that.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
Thorough and firm break-in, with religious maintenance using some of the best-rated 5w30 full synths you can get, in addition to some of the things mentioned above like not driving the car hard while cold, avoiding long idle times, etc will all play a factor in the overall health and condition of your STi, will allowing you the keep your warranty.
First I've heard of this, could you explain?
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:11 AM   #24
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First I've heard of this, could you explain?
Simple. Don't let it idle for a long time and avoid cruise control for the first 1000ish miles.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:18 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Lrn2Corner View Post
The only ones lasting 100k are taken care of by a professional mechanic who owns it, or are unmolested and driven by pansies who never open it up. in that case I would shell out decent money for one.
Right there shows how little you know. I'm not a 'professional mechanic' and my 08 STi lasted 115k hard-ish miles (stage 2) before I pulled the perfectly good running motor to replace with a built block. Compresion on all 4 cylinders was well within spec.

My 04 WRX was stage 2 for 110k miles before I sold it. I believe the current owner is still on the stock long block.
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