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Old 09-11-2013, 12:16 PM   #1
VegasSubie
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Default Lightweight Pulley on 2013 Impreza?

Looks like Perrin has a lightweight pulley for the 2012/2013 Impreza 2.0i. Wondering if anyone has one installed? The Subaru dealership said they will install it and warranty the work. Not sure if it's worth spending the $130 on it or not.

http://perrinperformance.com/i-13324...fb-engine.html
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:42 AM   #2
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If you have the CVT, I'd skip it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:19 AM   #3
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If you have the CVT, I'd skip it.
What's the reasoning? Too much lag in the CVT to notice the throttle response improvement maybe?
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:27 PM   #4
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It's not the CVT itself, but that a lightweight pulley only is noticeable (at least on the EJ25x) when rev matching, and possibly in first gear. It's more of a driveability mod than a power mod.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Counterfit View Post
It's not the CVT itself, but that a lightweight pulley only is noticeable (at least on the EJ25x) when rev matching, and possibly in first gear. It's more of a driveability mod than a power mod.
Yeah I know it doesn't increase the power. From what I've read it is more equivalent to lowering the weight of the car.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #6
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a lightened rotating mass allows the engine to accel and decel faster. on short gears and when rev matching, it makes it climb through the revs noticeably faster. its slight, but noticeable. On taller gears, it really can not be perceived. so on a cvt system that gets to a engine speed and stays there for best efficiency/power, how fast the engine can climb through the revs really doesn't matter.
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:29 PM   #7
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it would be an interesting idea to try if someone wants to. it would still help, even with the CVT on the highway, since it would be using less energy to stay at x-thousand rpm.

you can always use the "manual mode" in the CVT when you feel sporty. lol

i have one on my car and it's an auto. i def did notice the faster revs and much easier on rev-matching. i would say def worth it for a manual or regular auto, but your choice to try it on the CVT.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #8
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i have one on my car and it's an auto. much easier on rev-matching.
What?
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:22 PM   #9
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What?
I did that on a rental Versa.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #10
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How did you go about removing the stock pulley and then torquing back on the lightweight pulley on the auto/CVT??

It seems that no matter if you are in P, R, N, D...it wont lock up the pulley for you to be able to loosen or tighten, unlike in manual you can put it into 5th and then hulk smash the breaker bar.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kho View Post
How did you go about removing the stock pulley and then torquing back on the lightweight pulley on the auto/CVT??

It seems that no matter if you are in P, R, N, D...it wont lock up the pulley for you to be able to loosen or tighten, unlike in manual you can put it into 5th and then hulk smash the breaker bar.
There's a special tool you need to use.

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Old 09-15-2013, 08:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kho View Post
How did you go about removing the stock pulley and then torquing back on the lightweight pulley on the auto/CVT??

It seems that no matter if you are in P, R, N, D...it wont lock up the pulley for you to be able to loosen or tighten, unlike in manual you can put it into 5th and then hulk smash the breaker bar.
On my 4EAT I used a strap wrench, with the strap slightly diagonal across the pulley ridges for extra grip. The 4EAT pulley bolt torque is much less than the 5MT, so it's not quite as tough to remove as the manual cars, I imagine it would be similar on the CVT also.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by NH8991 View Post
On my 4EAT I used a strap wrench, with the strap slightly diagonal across the pulley ridges for extra grip. The 4EAT pulley bolt torque is much less than the 5MT, so it's not quite as tough to remove as the manual cars, I imagine it would be similar on the CVT also.
Thanks for the tip!
Sounds like a 2 man job, unless you pinned the strap wrench against something. I believe the pulley bolt needs to be torqued to 94ft-lbs, which is similar to the 88 ft-lbs required for wheel lug nuts. (But i could be totally wrong...yikes!). Nevertheless, it has never been hard to break loose a lug nut, so i doubt 6 extra ft-lbs would make it that much harder.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #14
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I did it on my own, can't remember if I jambed the handle against something or just got both handles at the right angle (maybe at 5 to 1) to get the maximum leverage, it was a few years ago now. I think on my engine the pulley bolt torque is 90 ft-lbs (verses something like 130 for the 5MT's!), so at 94 you should have a chance.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:44 AM   #15
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Reviving this thread, looking for someone who's written DIY on the pulley swap.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:25 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jimpreza111 View Post
Reviving this thread, looking for someone who's written DIY on the pulley swap.
Jimpreza i believe i have seen you have a CVT, which i myself have and did a pulley swap on. Below are the best instructions i can give you.1. Pull car into clear area/garage with some room and put up on ramp or jack stands ( I did this because Iím tall and didnít want to lean over). Engage parking brake for safety and let engine cool down.2. 12mm, 14mm, 22mm (crank), and 24mm (alternator) sockets or wrenches, I suggest getting an impact gun and a torque wrench.3. I suggest removing the are intake snorkel by removing the plastic fasteners (you twist to align the slot and pop up the center part, then the whole piece should come out) and set them aside.4. Next remove the bottom plastic guard panel, same process as the snorkel except there are 4 bolts as well. (this will just open up the underside to put a light down there or if you drop something to get it easier)5. I removed the radiator for more space, which involve two bolts on the top support holding clips and disconnecting the hoses form the engine. One is on the very top, which is obvious, the other is on the bottom driverís side underneath the engine. They are held on by hose clamps which can be loosened with a screwdriver. You will need a bucket/pan to catch the coolant to reause and not make a mess. After disconnected, I plugged the holes on the engine with a rag to prevent debris and more leakage.6. Now that you have some room, you can loosen the bolts with the impact and remove the alternator and crank pulleys. The water pump will be able to be done by hand with a socket wrench. I left the belt on during this process to provide some resistance. After the bolts are loose you can remove the belt by relieving the pressure on the tensioner by using a 14mm socket wrench. If you do not have an impact gun or cannot fit it into the engine bay you can get a socket wrench with a cheater bar to remove the bolts. I used the starter bump method to do the crank bolt and an impact on the alternator.7. Reassembly is just reverse, remember to put the o-ring back in place on the crank pulley. There are several different torque specs for the bolts but generally for the crank 100 ft-lb is the minimum. Several of the other threads go over that.8. Put the radiator back on and top of with fluid.9. Reinstall all plastic guard and snorkel pieces.
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polishspy View Post
Jimpreza i believe i have seen you have a CVT, which i myself have and did a pulley swap on. Below are the best instructions i can give you.1. Pull car into clear area/garage with some room and put up on ramp or jack stands ( I did this because I’m tall and didn’t want to lean over). Engage parking brake for safety and let engine cool down.2. 12mm, 14mm, 22mm (crank), and 24mm (alternator) sockets or wrenches, I suggest getting an impact gun and a torque wrench.3. I suggest removing the are intake snorkel by removing the plastic fasteners (you twist to align the slot and pop up the center part, then the whole piece should come out) and set them aside.4. Next remove the bottom plastic guard panel, same process as the snorkel except there are 4 bolts as well. (this will just open up the underside to put a light down there or if you drop something to get it easier)5. I removed the radiator for more space, which involve two bolts on the top support holding clips and disconnecting the hoses form the engine. One is on the very top, which is obvious, the other is on the bottom driver’s side underneath the engine. They are held on by hose clamps which can be loosened with a screwdriver. You will need a bucket/pan to catch the coolant to reause and not make a mess. After disconnected, I plugged the holes on the engine with a rag to prevent debris and more leakage.6. Now that you have some room, you can loosen the bolts with the impact and remove the alternator and crank pulleys. The water pump will be able to be done by hand with a socket wrench. I left the belt on during this process to provide some resistance. After the bolts are loose you can remove the belt by relieving the pressure on the tensioner by using a 14mm socket wrench. If you do not have an impact gun or cannot fit it into the engine bay you can get a socket wrench with a cheater bar to remove the bolts. I used the starter bump method to do the crank bolt and an impact on the alternator.7. Reassembly is just reverse, remember to put the o-ring back in place on the crank pulley. There are several different torque specs for the bolts but generally for the crank 100 ft-lb is the minimum. Several of the other threads go over that.8. Put the radiator back on and top of with fluid.9. Reinstall all plastic guard and snorkel pieces.
Anyway to do this without removing the rad? I wouldn't mind renting/buying a breaker bar and pulley tool like the one Grimmspeed offers. I already have a torque wrench and socket set. Also where would I find the data on torque specs for each pulley? Really appreciate the help Polishspy!

Last edited by Jimpreza111; 10-01-2015 at 03:48 PM. Reason: gratitude
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimpreza111 View Post
Anyway to do this without removing the rad? I wouldn't mind renting/buying a breaker bar and pulley tool like the one Grimmspeed offers. I already have a torque wrench and socket set. Also where would I find the data on torque specs for each pulley? Really appreciate the help Polishspy!
You could do it without removing the radiator, but it just really tight. I felt almost impossible to work with it in. It really isn't that hard to do. Granted i love cars and have swapped a couple engines so i feel pretty confident tearing **** apart. But, i feel even a novice could accomplish this.

On GrimmSpeed website in the instruction video it says to torque that bolt to 94 ft-lbs.

Several of the other Lighted pulley manufactures say 95 ft-lbs

The FSM under SOHC section for 02 says: Tightening torque: 177 N∑m (18 kgf-m, 130.2 ft-lb)

The FSM under DOHC section for 02 says: Tightening torque: 127 N-m (13 kgf-m, 94.0 ft-lb)

This is where the confusion is coming from. It's been a long argument over many many threads.

All the new 2.5l engines call for 130 ft-lbs. So it appears that for the 2.0l, it's 94 ft-lbs and the 2.5l its 130 ft-lbs.
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Old 10-05-2015, 11:02 AM   #19
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If I picked up one of these:
https://www.otctools.com/products/un...-pulley-holder

and a breaker bar with the correct sized sockets, do you think I could get the crank pulley out? I know it's going to take some muscle but if I can brace that pulley holder against the frame or something I think I could lean on the breaker bar.
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