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Old 05-26-2013, 03:49 AM   #26
NA STI
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Bpv block off plate with an iat sensor bung....grimspeeds next product?
LOL Ron! We need to patent this and make... millions?

Funny thing is I bought a square of .25" thick alum on ebay for $5 and used a harbor freight $15 air grinder with cutoff wheel and spent HOURS cutting it out, filing and sanding it smooth, drilled and tapped it, and finished up with semi polish job. In the end it looked store bought and turned out perfect.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:44 AM   #27
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That turned out quite nice
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:32 PM   #28
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Thanks. I went thru Curt Brown, but he can only do the fronts not the rears on 04-07 STis. I think he can do all four if you have the unboltable style rear hubs found on the newer STi's and WRX's.

http://www.curtbrownracing.com/ceramic_bearing_8.html
Thanks. Hey can you post the time slip? What was the mph in the 1/8th?
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:47 PM   #29
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Juan, if you title search the classifieds for ceramic a thread should pop up there. It was a vendor group buy, but I don't think anyone bought them due to the price. Picking up 2-4mph at the strip isn't worth $2000 to most people.
I've been contemplating ceramic wheel bearings and front/rear subframes for a long time but those three things add up to $4000-6000
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:18 PM   #30
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Vouch for the homie, throw that last video up dude. This car pulls and pulls forever. I'm definitely looking forward to getting my build together so Ron can tune it.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
Juan, if you title search the classifieds for ceramic a thread should pop up there. It was a vendor group buy, but I don't think anyone bought them due to the price. Picking up 2-4mph at the strip isn't worth $2000 to most people.
I've been contemplating ceramic wheel bearings and front/rear subframes for a long time but those three things add up to $4000-6000
I agree way too much for the benefit.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:35 PM   #32
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Looks fun. I'm contemplating getting a cobb unit to run SD. Threads like this nudge me a little harder lol
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #33
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Awesome build
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #34
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The only cars I've driven without BOV's were Crawford setups and surged like crazy and sounded like they were blowing the turbo apart. It didn't feel right to me, but to each his own.

BOV or not, those are some awesome results! That trap is really indicative of this kind of power on the Mustang calibration rather than dynojet. It's really impressive to me for this turbo as this is similar to the performance we usually see on the stock location GTX3071.

Good works guys!

-- Ed
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:52 PM   #35
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Very nice powerband. Glad to see someone do the GTX2867 justice. I think these 45-50 lb/min turbos, when done right, are really great all around daily turbos.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #36
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I deleted my bpv (sti turbo) I liked it and didn't like it. The rpms seemed to hang more between shifts, other than that it was cool. Now I just have a tial bov.

This is an awesome setup it is exactly what I would do. I can't imagine this at 30+psi it would be fun! I thought about this turbo but I want to run a be s200 8070 or 7670. But most likely the 8070. Because they have better twin scroll options.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #37
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30 psi wouldn't really do much except add low end tq. The boost taper is just inherent in turbos this size. And trying to force the boost up with an ebcs usually just ends up increasing the pressure but not the airflow.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:40 PM   #38
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Your setup looks fun,

I wonder how the new 3067 performs since its the same compressor with the old gt30 turbine. Turbine map shows that the .63 gt30 turbine flows the same as the gt28 turbine with 82 housing.

The difference is probably minimal since the taper is more of a consequence of the compressor on the 2.5l. Still curious though.

From an upgrade perspective it seems that a gt30 turbine housing has a lot of upgrade paths with the 3067 3071 and 3076 being options.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:13 PM   #39
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Your setup looks fun,

I wonder how the new 3067 performs since its the same compressor with the old gt30 turbine. Turbine map shows that the .63 gt30 turbine flows the same as the gt28 turbine with 82 housing.

The difference is probably minimal since the taper is more of a consequence of the compressor on the 2.5l. Still curious though.

From an upgrade perspective it seems that a gt30 turbine housing has a lot of upgrade paths with the 3067 3071 and 3076 being options.
Thats interesting, I didnt even know they started selling gtx3067s. That should respond much better on the street even compared to a gtx3071 because the gtx67mm wheels are only 10blade not 11blade like the gtx71+ wheels are.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:57 PM   #40
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Quick spool,nice low end torque and great boost retention between shifts
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:00 PM   #41
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Thanks. Hey can you post the time slip? What was the mph in the 1/8th?
Sure, here it is. They are in order from first to last. Keep in mind the past 1.5 years iv been driving around a stock civic while I was building this beast so I need to get warmed up again haha. The first pass spun 1st hard and almost just decided to bail on the run and cruise the track but changed my mind when I snatched 2nd . 2nd run I got a good clean launch, atleast I thought, but then all a sudden at the very top of 1st around 6k it just let go and started spinning (clutch was already let out fully and had full grip before 6k too) and screwed me up alot going into 2nd. 3rd run was "clean" no weird issues or anything just not a hard enough launch. I was on my buddys wheels with 255/40/17s but they are only a 400 treadwear all-season tire.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
Juan, if you title search the classifieds for ceramic a thread should pop up there. It was a vendor group buy, but I don't think anyone bought them due to the price. Picking up 2-4mph at the strip isn't worth $2000 to most people.
I've been contemplating ceramic wheel bearings and front/rear subframes for a long time but those three things add up to $4000-6000
Yeah I think that was TiC and MSI running that IIRC. They ended up bailing on the idea thoe. I think the only way to get ceramic wheel bearings thru them is if you get the $5000 MSI uprights lol. I only paid $700 for my ceramic fronts since I was the guinea pig through curt brown and I was the first STi he did, so it wasnt to bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sultan81 View Post
Vouch for the homie, throw that last video up dude. This car pulls and pulls forever. I'm definitely looking forward to getting my build together so Ron can tune it.
Thanks man, appreciate the help and for filming. Also im sure Ron will be ready whenever we get together your setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by Equilibrium Tuning View Post
The only cars I've driven without BOV's were Crawford setups and surged like crazy and sounded like they were blowing the turbo apart. It didn't feel right to me, but to each his own.

BOV or not, those are some awesome results! That trap is really indicative of this kind of power on the Mustang calibration rather than dynojet. It's really impressive to me for this turbo as this is similar to the performance we usually see on the stock location GTX3071.

Good works guys!

-- Ed
Thanks Ed. I just like trying different and abnormal stuff it just makes it that much more fun right? lol. But very true to each his own... I actually like the flutter sound

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatTurboLag? View Post
I deleted my bpv (sti turbo) I liked it and didn't like it. The rpms seemed to hang more between shifts, other than that it was cool. Now I just have a tial bov.

This is an awesome setup it is exactly what I would do. I can't imagine this at 30+psi it would be fun! I thought about this turbo but I want to run a be s200 8070 or 7670. But most likely the 8070. Because they have better twin scroll options.
Interesting. What you mean hang between shifts? as in the rpms didnt fall as fast or abruptly when you let off to shift? Also 30psi would make for some fun peak tq but wouldnt really be worth it as Ron explained.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:44 PM   #42
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Yes, it wouldn't fall as fast, almost hang. Would make shifting quickly very weird. But I imagine with flat shift enabled it wouldn't be an issue. I can in plug my tial and demonstrate it again since that's now just as good as a block off lol.

But I really like the idea of none at all. I want to see/hear videos ASAP.


I still need to finish my tune from Mikey
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:58 PM   #43
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i wonder why the RPM's would hang, i'm considering doing the delete. been interested in the synapse bpv.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:18 AM   #44
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Nice work on the tune Ron, and great build NA! This car kicks but!
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:24 AM   #45
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126.8. Great job. That's exactly my best trap on a Perrin 30r .82 kit, c16 on 27psi

Never ever would expect that from this turbo, I still wonder what a tapped out gtx3576 power band would look like
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:28 AM   #46
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I would take that as a positive effect if the rpms drop back down slower. It seems like the car would be smoother and stay flatter when you let off and also have better recovery when you get back in it. It that not how you feel? I dont understand how it makes shifting quickly feel weird thoe? Maybe its just the weird noises throwing your shift rhythm off lol
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:34 AM   #47
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unsure, i would like a little bit of rpm hang personally.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:15 PM   #48
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Like it would hang higher than the point it would settle at when you were off the clutch so it would jut down. I haven't driven like that in a while I wil try it again for a day and see lol
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatTurboLag? View Post
Yes, it wouldn't fall as fast, almost hang. Would make shifting quickly very weird. But I imagine with flat shift enabled it wouldn't be an issue. I can in plug my tial and demonstrate it again since that's now just as good as a block off lol.

But I really like the idea of none at all. I want to see/hear videos ASAP.

I still need to finish my tune from Mikey
Are you running pull through with a maf? It could be the air reversing direction out through the intake which is the opposite effect of the car stalling if dumping to atmosphere.

Crawford uses small diameter hot piping which likely has the bulk of effect on response than the bov delete.

I don't have an opinion on sans blow off valve, but theoretically it would reduce response between shifts in average every day driving because the compressor is coming to an abrupt halt or at least suddenly decelerating. This would be most apparent in spirited non race conditions where the throttle is allowed to close significantly even for a brief period like getting on a freeway. would think the best response in these conditions would be to keep the compressor from decelerating without having to keep the throttle open. It would make sense to me that drift cars etc.. gymkhana rarely allow the throttle to suddenly go back to idle position but they likely modulate the throttle between 60-90 very frequently for long periods and so a blow off valve if not sprung perfectly might blow off every so often with a sudden depression of the throttle and the car would lose torque and wheelspin. Even though the throttle never closes the sharp deltas might have a strange effect on the bov. In this context it makes sense to run sans bov.
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:38 PM   #50
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I meant to add that if setup for gymkhana and the driving is even close to drifting-- I think there's more modulation in gymkhana especially with an awd car---the bov spring would have to be so high that it would cause compressor surge a lot of the times. There are times in drifting where once the rear breaks loose the car doesn't need a ton of throttle so the bov helps to avoid compressor surge, but sometimes the bov will vent unintentionally on occasion. I bet that in gymkhana it happens more frequently so they just delete it and allow the driver to use the throttle more precisely.
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