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Old 07-01-2014, 09:53 AM   #1
Norte
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I am basically an audiophile... And obsess about quality sound. I do not think it takes an audiophile to realize that the sound system in the impreza is somewhat of a lackluster.

I myself am in the process of fixing this, But I'm not a "slap two 12's in the trunk" and be done with it, kind of guy. I like balance of high, mids, and realistic bass that doesn't shake my eyeballs. I know when bass is needed, however.

I haven't set up much yet, but soon I will have some pictures to post. I have a few rules I stick to with sub's. One is: don't ever buy anything other than JL sub's. (So added time to save up money is needed)

What have you done to treat this symptom?
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:25 AM   #2
MA83
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Kicker 40CS654

Incredibly balanced sound with great power handling. They sound MUCH more expensive than they are. I'll be getting a powered 10" sub eventually as well to take some of the bass handling off of the Kickers. Not that they can't handle it, but as with any normal speaker you pump too much and you eventually get distortion of the mid-range and vocals. With that said, these speakers easily max out the power output of the stock Clarion deck, but are plenty loud without needing an amp.
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:34 AM   #3
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Nexus 7 > behringher uca202 > alpine KTP 445u = source and power.

Polk components up front, stock 6.5s in the back. The rear are set to lower gain as fill only so don't need anything better then stock.

Only thing in missing is a sub for the deep bass, but as I don't listen to much that requires it in OK without it.

Best sounding and functional system I have tried in this car.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:17 AM   #4
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Stock "Type-B" head unit

Amplified Polk DB6501 components in the dash

Infinity 10" sub in a ported fiberglass box tuned for flat response
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:21 AM   #5
Norte
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Very nice. I've had Polk components before. They are awesome. I am thinking of some alpine components this time around. Rear doors don't need to be changed, I agree.

I have installed a JL 8" micro sub w/800 watts. It is a tiny little guy that kicks as hard as many other 12's on the market. I'm still not sure I will stick with it, though.

Since I haven't changed out my deck, I can't balance the lows away from my mids enough without a sub.

The two inch speakers in the dash are total garbage. I already replaced those with alpine tweeters and crossovers. I basically just installed a micro sub, and tweeters to see if it did e everything I wanted. It sounds MUCH better.. But not enough mids for me. The deck, and apline front 5"s will be next. After that, I should be sitting pretty, with much more EQ options and crossovers directing traffic well. I don't want to lose my Bluetooth though. So I might wait till I can afford a pioneer double din w/ Bluetooth.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
I am basically an audiophile... And obsess about quality sound.
Great to see another SQ nut. However, the term "audiophile" implies that you are a snob and that is not a good thing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
One is: don't ever buy anything other than JL sub's. (So added time to save up money is needed)
what is your reasoning behind this? The market has changed drastically over the last 10 years and there are many more wallet friendly products that meet and/or exceed the quality of JL. Dont get me wrong, JL does make some good stuff, but there are lots of other options out there.


For me, my 2014 hatch is a work in progress. Still in the very early stages. As an SQ nut, I noticed you didnt mention anything about sound control (deadening, dampening, absorption). I am attacking my vehicle with raamat vibration dampener, a combination of ensolite and denim insulation as my absorption, and an MLV product as my deadener.

I also noticed you didnt mention anything about processing. I will be utilizing the stock HU with a JBL MS8 to handle all the sound processing. After that will be JBL ms-A1004 4channel and a JBL MS-A5001 mono amp. Those will be powering a conglomerate of oz audio 1" tweets, FatialPRO 3" mid range, focal KF 6.5" midbass, and a JL GTO 15" sub for sub bass.

What are your plans?
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:49 AM   #7
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oh ya i forgot my sound deadening.

Raamat in strategic locations to kill sounds in doors, hatch, and hatch floor. no need to go crazy with it, you really don't need much for it to do its job, i only used 6 of the 11 sheets I bought. ccf to seperate my MLV from the door structure. I have MLV in the doors, hatch, hatch floor and footwells.

completely forgot it was even there! made a big difference.

i've toyed with the idea of fiberglassing in an 8" sub in the back corner of the hatch, but not sure i really want to go that route. Maybe if i make some fiberglass kicks for my truck I will be more motivated to try it out.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
I have installed a JL 8" micro sub w/800 watts. It is a tiny little guy that kicks as hard as many other 12's on the market. I'm still not sure I will stick with it, though.
If it's the 8W3v3, it's only rated for 250WRMS, and not very efficient. Most 10" or 12" will go lower and louder with less power.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
oh ya i forgot my sound deadening.

Raamat in strategic locations to kill sounds in doors,
to clarify, CLD does not "kill sounds". Its a vibration dampener which lowers the resonant frequency of the panel it is applied to. You need a combination of all 3 of the components I listed earlier to really "kill" sound.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:24 PM   #10
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lol op is funny

There's hundreds of threads on this, no reason to crap up the WRONG section with more threads.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post

Great to see another SQ nut. However, the term "audiophile" implies that you are a snob and that is not a good thing.
Haha, good point. As for your questions on my options... The answer is money. I'm figuring it out as I go. Processing, control... All of that are to be figured out after I get set further in motion. I don't know if I turn up loud enough to require it yet.

As for your question on JL.. What do you recommend otherwise? I was planning on a ported 10" from JL. One reason is, I love their range and I get a decent discount from them. But I could also be a victim of loyalty... I'd love to hear what you know about other brands that you'd hold to JL.

Your setup sounds like it will be completely eargasmic. How much will all that set you back?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
to clarify, CLD does not "kill sounds". Its a vibration dampener which lowers the resonant frequency of the panel it is applied to. You need a combination of all 3 of the components I listed earlier to really "kill" sound.
did you read my entire post?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:31 PM   #13
Norte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thefifth View Post
lol op is funny

There's hundreds of threads on this, no reason to crap up the WRONG section with more threads.
I looked through the impreza threads and didn't see anything. If you think I should have started it outside this model, I would prefer to hear what people are doing on this particular model. Hardly crapping up the wrong section IMO.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
Haha, good point. As for your questions on my options... The answer is money. I'm figuring it out as I go. Processing, control... All of that are to be figured out after I get set further in motion. I don't know if I turn up loud enough to require it yet.

As for your question on JL.. What do you recommend otherwise? I was planning on a ported 10" from JL. One reason is, I love their range and I get a decent discount from them. But I could also be a victim of loyalty... I'd love to hear what you know about other brands that you'd hold to JL.

Your setup sounds like it will be completely eargasmic. How much will all that set you back?

Choosing a subwoofer is like choosing a girlfriend. You have to have a set of variables before diving in. For my situation, I wanted a sub that could effortlessly play from 60hz and below. Easiest way to do that is to get the largest amount of surface area (a 15" in this case) that will fit in the planned installation area. Next was to pick a brand and model to match my budget and power requirement. I chose the JBL GTO 15 because it was the only 15 I could find to meet my requirements. My entire setup (only core components - not including wiring, connectors, etc...) was about $2k Thats about on par for a not so crazy SQ setup.

Which specific sub from JL were you wanting to use?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:57 PM   #15
Norte
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http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110-w6v3-ca...-systems-93310

I can get that for $350

But yeah I just decided to do all this yesterday. Haven't had time to plan a deep scenario. I've never used a 15" sub. I bet I'd like it. Right now I just have an 8" JL micro sub I'm using just to draw the lows as I figure out my high and mid. It sounds much better than you'd expect. But it could never have the response of a 15.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110-w6v3-ca...-systems-93310

I can get that for $350

But yeah I just decided to do all this yesterday. Haven't had time to plan a deep scenario. I've never used a 15" sub. I bet I'd like it. Right now I just have an 8" JL micro sub I'm using just to draw the lows as I figure out my high and mid. It sounds much better than you'd expect. But it could never have the response of a 15.
the W6 is a great sub. of all the JLs out there, that is what I would pick if I were to choose JL. For the money though, Dayton is a much better option. For a sealed enclosure, use the HF line, for ported/vented use the HO line.

do you have the impreza sedan or hatchback?
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:06 PM   #17
Norte
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Sedan they didn't have any hatches when I had to buy
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:08 PM   #18
Norte
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Have another link? That one doesn't work
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
Sedan they didn't have any hatches when I had to buy
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/car...28%29%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22% 29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2 C%221%22%29]&PortalID=1

weird, the link works for me. Something else you could consider if you dont mind losing the ability to fold down your rear seats and use the pass through, is to go IB (infinite baffle). Basically this is where you use the largest sub woofer possible that meets a certain set of specifications (not all subs can run IB) and mount the sub so that the front sound waves are separated from the rear sound waves - but there is no enclosure. You pretty much build a wall separating your trunk to the cabin of the vehicle and mount the sub on that wall. This provides amazing SQ results. It is fairly common in the home theater world. Best sounding setup I ever had was using a 15" IB sub, a pair of 10" mid bass drivers in the doors, 4" mid range drivers in the kicks, and 1" tweets in the A-pillars. most of your bass should come from the mid bass drivers with just the very low bottom end produced from the sub.

Here is a link to a great IB sub.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--295-455
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:39 PM   #20
Norte
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So with IB, I'd have to keep the rear seats down? Or make a wall in the trunk roughly 1 ft from the wall of the seats, with the driver facing the rear?

No doubt some 10" for bass range is ideal. I just don't think I could fenaggle all of that.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:56 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norte View Post
So with IB, I'd have to keep the rear seats down? Or make a wall in the trunk roughly 1 ft from the wall of the seats, with the driver facing the rear?

No doubt some 10" for bass range is ideal. I just don't think I could fenaggle all of that.

You could keep the seats up with the sub facing forward directly behind the seats (doesnt have to be 1 foot away). You dont have to have 10" mids to enjoy an IB sub. the idea with an IB sub is the same as your door speakers (which are IB). Nice thing about IB is that it doesnt take a whole lot of power either. In fact, too much power and youll blow the sub.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:01 PM   #22
MA83
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Anyone know of a 15" enclosure that would fit in the spare tire area? Seems like the perfect place to fit one and retain maximum cargo space.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:12 PM   #23
Norte
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Anyone know of a 15" enclosure that would fit in the spare tire area? Seems like the perfect place to fit one and retain maximum cargo space.
Novel idea if it works! Kinda won't allow for weight in the the middle of your trunk though
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:13 PM   #24
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kicker speakers and tweeters and pioneer Pioneer AVH-P8400BH

love your reference op,
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:14 PM   #25
Norte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobditts View Post

You could keep the seats up with the sub facing forward directly behind the seats (doesnt have to be 1 foot away). You dont have to have 10" mids to enjoy an IB sub. the idea with an IB sub is the same as your door speakers (which are IB). Nice thing about IB is that it doesnt take a whole lot of power either. In fact, too much power and youll blow the sub.
I will look into it. But I meant that I like the idea of 10" for mid bass regardless. And that first link still doesn't work. Oh well.
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