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Old 06-29-2013, 11:07 AM   #1
Robman7835
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Default 06 STi - Stage 2 Power Issues - Datalogs Inside

Posted this in the EM section, but I'm not getting any feedback.

I've just recently installed a cobb ots stage 2 tune on my 06 STi, and I'm having some issues in the power curve around the 3500-4500 rpm range. It seems to hiccup or cut out very briefly then continues to pull. Sometimes its a simple quick studder, sometimes it seems like 2 or 3.

No CELS. Cleaned the MAF. Looking for some other ideas of where to look. My first few logs showed boost spikes over 20psi, so I attributed it to creep, so I switched maps to the LWG stage 2 tune. But the problem still exists.


I've included some datalogs of 2 4th gear pulls. Hopefully they are viewable.

2006 Sti - Mods Include

Invidia Catted Downpipe and Invidia Catback system
Snokus Delete
APv2 - Cobb OTS 93 Stage 2 LWG

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxk6...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxk6...it?usp=sharing

Thanks for any Help
Rob
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Last edited by Robman7835; 07-03-2013 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:06 PM   #2
DavC825
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Email cobb
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:03 PM   #3
ppayer38
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Can't see the logs... Use google to host them and set them to public.
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:41 PM   #4
Tut4u2
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Check your spark plugs or look around for a loose ground
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #5
Abnormal
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Off The Shelf BASE Map.

They leave the "BASE" out to think you can drive around on these for a long time.

Get a real tune.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:01 AM   #6
Robman7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abnormal View Post
Off The Shelf BASE Map.

They leave the "BASE" out to think you can drive around on these for a long time.

Get a real tune.

I'm well aware of the stipulations that come with running the Cobb ots maps. However, I just recently switch my car to a stage 2 tune. I'm now in the midst of trouble shooting as to why my boost seems to hesitate out at 4k RPM's.

This isn't my first Subaru. That being said, I also have a lot more to learn. I didn't think a rich ots map would cause this issue. That is why I've data logged and have turned to the forum for some help or direction.

A pro tune is for sure in my future..... I'm also not in any hurry to rush the process. I don't want to get my car on a dyno and pay the hourly rates for a tuner, only to find a mechanical issue that would cause trouble with creating a good tune.

Any beneficial information would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Robman7835; 07-03-2013 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:37 AM   #7
Tut4u2
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The link to your logs is dead.

The other thing you can do is disconnect one of the vacuum line as to run only wastegate pressure and see if the hiccup is still there or not; if it is then its not boost related.

Lastly, did you have the hiccup prior to flashing stg2?
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:33 AM   #8
RossLH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robman7835 View Post
I just recently switch my car to a stage 2 tune...I don't believe a rich ots map would be causing this issue.
Well you didn't have a problem, then you flashed a new map, and now you do have a problem. As far as I'm concerned, that's a diagnosis. Avoid sassing people who give you legitimate advice. You really should get a tune.

That said, fix your links. To me it sounds like your boost is spiking and you're hitting boost cut, but that's purely speculation.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:26 AM   #9
Robman7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossLH View Post
Well you didn't have a problem, then you flashed a new map, and now you do have a problem. As far as I'm concerned, that's a diagnosis. Avoid sassing people who give you legitimate advice. You really should get a tune.

That said, fix your links. To me it sounds like your boost is spiking and you're hitting boost cut, but that's purely speculation.
I Fixed the Links

My thoughts from the beginning was that I had boost spiking issues. That is why I switched to the LWG map in hopes of some change.

At what PSI will the boost cut?

And if this is the problem, a pro tune isn't really a fix for creep issues. Just a band aid.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #10
BarmanBean
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As to your specific issue I'm not sure other than what others have said--if flashing a new map creates a problem, the issue is likely the map. However, I'm assuming you installed stage 2 parts and flashed the map at the same time? If so, that opens up some other possible issues (hardware / leak issues).

For starters, flash the 91-octane map and continue to run with 93-octane gas. Running OTS maps is a bit safer that way.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:52 AM   #11
acumenhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robman7835 View Post
A pro tune is for sure in my future..... I'm also not in any hurry to rush the process. I don't want to get my car on a dyno and pay the hourly rates for a tuner, only to find a mechanical issue that would cause trouble with creating a good tune.
Any reputable tuner will make sure the car is mechanically sound before tuning it. When I got tuned at IAG they did compression/boost tests, etc. before putting it on the dyno. If you can't figure it out make a tune appt and kill two birds with one stone.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:58 AM   #12
Abnormal
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The OTS maps are not meant to be universal, and are certainly not smooth.

They are base maps with extra fuel extra timing and low boost, in my experience. They tend to be very peaky and hesitant until the midrange, then taper off horribly.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:55 PM   #13
RossLH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robman7835 View Post
I Fixed the Links

My thoughts from the beginning was that I had boost spiking issues. That is why I switched to the LWG map in hopes of some change.

At what PSI will the boost cut?

And if this is the problem, a pro tune isn't really a fix for creep issues. Just a band aid.
You are having a boost spike. The logs are reading that the MAP sensor is seeing 2.5-3.5psi higher than the target boost at about 3500RPM, then cutting fuel and pulling back the WGDC.

Boost spikes are a tuning issue, boost creep is a mechanical issue. You're not having a problem with boost creep at all, just a spike. Get a nice 3-port boost solenoid and a tune.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:03 PM   #14
Robman7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossLH View Post

You are having a boost spike. The logs are reading that the MAP sensor is seeing 2.5-3.5psi higher than the target boost at about 3500RPM, then cutting fuel and pulling back the WGDC.

Boost spikes are a tuning issue, boost creep is a mechanical issue. You're not having a problem with boost creep at all, just a spike. Get a nice 3-port boost solenoid and a tune.
Ok. Thanks for the clarification and advice. I appreciate the help!
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:08 PM   #15
Robman7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossLH View Post

You are having a boost spike. The logs are reading that the MAP sensor is seeing 2.5-3.5psi higher than the target boost at about 3500RPM, then cutting fuel and pulling back the WGDC.

Boost spikes are a tuning issue, boost creep is a mechanical issue. You're not having a problem with boost creep at all, just a spike. Get a nice 3-port boost solenoid and a tune.
Any recommendations for a new boost solenoid? Also, do you know of any good tuners locally?
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:45 PM   #16
RossLH
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As far as 3-ports go, the Grimmspeed solenoid seems to be pretty popular, probably can't go wrong there. If you're in PA, any tuner I recommend will be a pretty good drive for you. At that rate, I'd be quicker just to go with an e-tune.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:18 PM   #17
Robman7835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossLH View Post
As far as 3-ports go, the Grimmspeed solenoid seems to be pretty popular, probably can't go wrong there. If you're in PA, any tuner I recommend will be a pretty good drive for you. At that rate, I'd be quicker just to go with an e-tune.
I debated the e-tune, but I'm still leary of the whole situation as I don't personally know anyone that has done it, nor am I educated on the process. The drive doesn't worry me too much. I live right on the mason dixon so shops in Maryland arent out of the question. I actually just recently drove to andrewtech to take care of a few things a couple months ago. Not sure if they tune though seeing as I didn't see a dyno.

If you don't mind me asking what did IAG charge for your tune. Was it Cobb based or open source? Ive noticed a shop near me charges $500 for cobb protunes. That being the case I almost feel like selling the accessport and just getting an open source tune instead, seeing as I'll have close to 1k invested with Cobb for a pro tune.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:17 AM   #18
Tut4u2
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The $500 tune is pretty much standard. I would personally avoid e-tunes having gotten one recently for my other car; I much prefer to have my car on the dyno instead of having to do WOT runs on public roads, send my logs, wait a day, and repeat the process until the car feels right.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:26 AM   #19
RossLH
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If you're familiar with using a Tactrix cable, logging, and flashing maps, a good e-tuner can do great things for you. If not, take it to a tuner. Give TurboXS a call, they're right by Andrewtech. I have no personal experience with Jermaine (tuner at TurboXS), but people that I very well trust have said only great things about him.

I actually tune my own car (open source), so I can't help you with their rates. You could give them a call though, they usually don't bite. And Rick gives free hugs if you ask nicely.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:03 AM   #20
Abnormal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tut4u2 View Post
The $500 tune is pretty much standard. I would personally avoid e-tunes having gotten one recently for my other car; I much prefer to have my car on the dyno instead of having to do WOT runs on public roads, send my logs, wait a day, and repeat the process until the car feels right.
Bingo.

"It knocks at this RPM..."
"Oh ok, log it... yeah, make it knock on a log and wait, then reflash and let's see if it knocks again!"


Quote:
Originally Posted by RossLH View Post
If you're familiar with using a Tactrix cable, logging, and flashing maps, a good e-tuner can do great things for you. If not, take it to a tuner. Give TurboXS a call, they're right by Andrewtech. I have no personal experience with Jermaine (tuner at TurboXS), but people that I very well trust have said only great things about him.

I actually tune my own car (open source), so I can't help you with their rates. You could give them a call though, they usually don't bite. And Rick gives free hugs if you ask nicely.
Bingo! TurboXS also sells their own 3 port solenoid as well, not an expensive unit either. All based on the same actual valve anyway.
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