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Old 06-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #1
nERv3s
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Default OBX Intake Manifold -- HELP

Hello Everyone,

So I sort of got stuck with a lemon. I had posted on here awhile back about how I picked up a 02 WRX with mods for a good price, but I needed help telling what the mods were and why I was getting both misfire codes and turbo solenoid codes. However my current question isn't about the codes. With some research I've found that the intake manifold I'm running is an OBX intake manifold (http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1564) now I know that OBX is knock-off crap and I have every intention of replacing it. My current fear is that on that website it says that that intake will only work with 04-07 STI models, yet I'm running it on an 02' WRX? The throttle body on my car is also an aftermarket TB and it has a large mouth that matches up with the larger inlet on the manifold. I did notice however that the small slit on the top of the TB and manifold are different shapes (not sure if this is a huge issue but I'm assuming its not great).

Does anyone know when I remove this and try to go back to stock what issues I might run into? If I can't go back to stock can someone suggest a manifold that will pair up that wont break the bank.

Unfortunately I'm also running a no-name FMIC and what appears to be an OBX turbo. Both are also on my list to replace, but I figured I would start with the Intake manifold and work my way from there.

Any input, other than bashing the parts that I already know are crap, would be appreciated.

THX
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #2
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When you buy modded cars you need to really go over them carefully to avoid the situation you find yourself in right now. The only real difference between the STi and WRX manifolds are the TB mounting and the fact that the STi doesn't need an idle air control solenoid since its DBW. Since you said yours has an aftermarket TB there is no way for us to tell what the original owner did to make it work. The best and probaly cheapest option for you if you don't want to spend time doing actual troubleshooting would be to go back to the stock IM and TB then go from there. It is quite possible that the IM and TB are having no effect on your misfire problems and I'm about 100% sure it not causing you solenoid codes.
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:29 PM   #3
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List the codes here, i'm sure someone has come across them on a less modded car.
You are on a witch hunt otherwise trying to associate the CELs with your aftermarket parts

i'd do a pressure test to see if any air leaks at the throttle body and at the bottom of any of the intake manifold runners. If the gasket seals are fine, exchanging the intake manifold is not going to solve the CELs.

As far as knockoff crap, it actually looks better than the v1 Magnus manifold it copies.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
As far as knockoff crap, it actually looks better than the v1 Magnus manifold it copies.
Same with the turbo, not a top tier brand but if it hasn't blown up yet then it's probably ok for now.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:22 AM   #5
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Misfire codes are PO301,PO302,PO303,PO304 and the turbo solenoid code is P0244. I'm probably going to just go to stock and work my way from there. I just don't want to cause more issues than I'm solving.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:50 AM   #6
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Misfire on all cylinders and overboost code, that's not a good start to your week. Do you know if this thing has a tune on it? Any other little bits, have you checked for an aftermarket crank pulley?
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
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I would run some diagnostics (compression/leak down). If everything comes back good then start swapping out the parts you want to get rid of asap and deal with the codes later.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #8
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start with this thread for tracking down the misfire causes http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7#post36504277

as far as the overboost code, check all your boost related hoses for cracks and/or test your bcs.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:59 PM   #9
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Stock crank pulley although I found an aftermarket one in the trunk after I bought the car, not sure if it was ever installed. I have checked all the hoses and I haven't seen any cracks or breaks. It has a manual boost controller on it, would anyone suggest just trying to turn it down? Not sure if it has a tune on it or not. I would assume it has to considering the level of mods that have been done. It's currently running 18 psi, which is actually less then what it was when I bought it. I turned it down per a buddy of mine's suggestion. It was running close to 22 psi before.

Full list of mods (some with brands some unknown) include:

Headers (unknown -- invidia maybe? look like knock off)
Uppipe (unknown)
Turbo (OBX - likely)
Invidia DP
HKS Hi-Power Mid-pipe and Axel Back
STI Pink injectors
Agency Power fuel rails, lines and distribution block
FMIC (Unknown - possibly CX Racing)
Intake Manifold (OBX)
Throttle Body (Unknown)
Manual Boost Controller (HBC)
Intake (Unknown) w/ K&N Cone Filter
Radiator (CX Racing)

So obviously just ripping everything out and replacing with stock is sort of difficult. So far first on my list of replacement are the IM and TB, the FMIC and the turbo. Thankfully I still have the stock TB and IM so I just need to figure out how bad it would be to swap them out.

How exactly would I "test" my bcs? Sort of a noob when it comes to Turbos still.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:39 PM   #10
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Never assume you have a tune just because you have aftermarket parts on the car. Part =! tune. The MBC explains the boost solenoid code you are getting and leads me to believe there may not be a tune on the car because any good tuner would have turned the code off or set the boost targets so you wouldn't get this while using the MBC.

You should get a compression and/or leakdown test done first to determine the health of the motor before you go crazy and start unnecesarily changing parts. First determine the cause of the problems then address them. The shotgun tecnique lead to poor results and a lot of wasted time.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:45 PM   #11
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Thanks kellygnsd, can anyone suggest a good shop on the North Shore area for a compression and leakdown test? Any ideas on cost?
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsime298 View Post
Thanks kellygnsd, can anyone suggest a good shop on the North Shore area for a compression and leakdown test? Any ideas on cost?
If you can handle changing the spark plugs you can do compression at home. Leakdown is another story.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:37 PM   #13
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That reminds me that I've had to change the plugs twice, it keeps burning them up...
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsime298 View Post
That reminds me that I've had to change the plugs twice, it keeps burning them up...
Are you using Iridium or Platinum plugs?
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #15
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NGK Platinum
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:44 PM   #16
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Platinum plugs should last... but you may have another issue if the plugs are getting fouled that quickly
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #17
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I'll double check that they are Platinums. I still have the boxes in my car. I just looked up a compression test too(http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...mpression+test). My father (25-year diesel mechanic) should have a compression tester.

Thanks Everyone!
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:55 PM   #18
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sounds like you need a tune something fierce. i wouldnt doubt those mods are running on a stock rom. if you do decide to get rid of the OBX mani, send me pics and i might be interested in trading a stock mani for it. i have alot of stock parts if you need anything, and i dont mind Ebay stuff, especially OBX and CXRacing. Reguardless to what people say, those two companies have pretty good quality, I've used both and never had any problems with either. in fact i really like CX Racing, im buying a FMIC and a Rad for my wagon off of them. good quality and great to work with.

and ditch that MBC for a Grimmspeed 3 port Solinoid.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:14 PM   #19
nERv3s
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Gamble, when I took it to a tuning shop they actually said that they thought the mani had cracks in it around the welds. I have no way of confirming that but either way I'm not sure of its quality regardless. I wont mention any names, but the shop didn't want to touch the car because of the parts that were installed on it (probably going to get a second opinion)

That's interesting to hear about OBX and CX racing since the general consensus says otherwise. I actually just called CX trying to find out about their warranties and they told me they don't offer any warranties on any of their products.

Regardless what would I gain from going from the MBC to the GS 3 port? Should I buy the part but then wait until its at the tuner to install it?
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:34 PM   #20
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cracked welds? if your gonna trash it ill pay shipping to my house.

Cx Racing doesnt offer a warrenty? Strange, my radiator had come with a warrenty card. not that i needed it. i had a CXracing TMIC too on my last wrx, and never had an issue with that either. ive used OBX exhaust manifolds and stuff on my honda's (what i normally DD and i dont really care about) and never had an issue with anything, however i have heard of cracked welds but i can weld so that wouldnt even bother me.

anyways, the MBC is fine, it offers a quicker spoolup than a solinoid does, however, it tempts people to turn it either way because its so easy to mess with. the grimmspeed solinoid offers better spoolup over stock, and keeps it on the factory computer system to control boost. i would wait until you get to the tuner to install it, as god only knows what the boost is currently set at on your computer, and if its set at 24.75 PSi (max the computer will allow without modification to the rom) it could be a bad day. but ussually when people slap MBCs on subarus, its either because they wanted to crank up the boost and had no idea what they were doing, or theyre running an extreme power level that a solinoid cant handle. either way, i would turn the MBC down to 14psi, which is the factory level and see if it runs better. if it does, leave it, if it doesnt, turn it back up to 18.

again, im trying to do a budget build right now, so if your junking these Ebay parts, i would be happy to take them off your hands. (the mani and the FMIC anyways) unless the turbos a 20g you can toss it.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:45 AM   #21
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I checked last night and the plugs are platinum for sure. As for getting rid of the parts I'll let you know what I find out. Gamble, I actually have an extra BIG TMIC that I think is from CX as well if you're interested in it, let me know. I'm going to be doing a compression test this afternoon (if the weather holds up). I'll let everyone know what I find.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:06 PM   #22
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thanks for the offer, but im only looking for a FMIC. good luck with getting her fixed up man!
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:28 PM   #23
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So I just did the compression test. Pictures show the levels. I've also included pics of the plugs. I just put these plugs in this February. Let me know what you guys think...











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Old 06-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #24
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Whats the corrosion on the two center plug bodies. Where they tight in their respective cylinders. What did the coil boots look like for those two?
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:47 PM   #25
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All of the boots look the same, nothing significant about them. Those two plugs were in the back two cylinders. Not really sure what caused the corrosion. I was hoping someone here could tell me.
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