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Old 07-29-2013, 10:04 PM   #1
BazookaBlue
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Default Stock tires - how long do they last?

I was just informed by my dealer that my stock tires are shot at 29k miles. I have them rotated at each oil change. They are the Yokohama AV10 S34 P205/50R17's. They are really loud now. Is that all they last?
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:23 PM   #2
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It all depends on your driving characteristics. Why don't you just check your tires' tread depth? Look for the wear bars. If you are looking at the side wall of a tire, then look a the tire tread. There are small bars in gaps between the treads. If the treads are running horizontal, then the bars are running vertical. If the treads are level with the wear bars then it is time to get a new set of tires. I dumped my stock tires around 15K for DWS. It was getting to winter time and I knew snow was coming. I didn't need/want snow tires because it only snowed twice where I lived and DWS is more than enough to get me by.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:26 PM   #3
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What do you mean is that all? 29k on semi-performance tires. That's great!

What on earth would you expect from a set of tires? approx. 2 years of driving, can't beat that.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:49 AM   #4
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Semi-performance? They are optimized for low RR and efficiency rather then traction, if that's performance then so be it.


Im still on stock rubber past 40k. I am very surprised with how they are lasting. I check often but still plenty of tread left. Im a commuter so lots of highway miles that are usually more gentle on the rubber.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:13 AM   #5
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I just bought my 2012 with 38,000 on it and the stock tires are beyond shot. Cupped, loud as hell, terrifying in the rain and ready to be replaced.

I'm researching possible replacements right now and intend to rotate often when I finally get them. Starting out with a proper alignment and frequent rotation is the only way to get life out of tires on our cars. I generally rotate my tires every other oil change (6,000-7,000 miles).
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpy View Post
I just bought my 2012 with 38,000 on it and the stock tires are beyond shot. Cupped, loud as hell, terrifying in the rain and ready to be replaced.

I'm researching possible replacements right now and intend to rotate often when I finally get them. Starting out with a proper alignment and frequent rotation is the only way to get life out of tires on our cars. I generally rotate my tires every other oil change (6,000-7,000 miles).
This car is every oil change
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:52 AM   #7
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I've just been doing every 5k miles because my OCI varies depending on driving. Usually I'm changing oil every 4k miles because of my short city driving. But, when I took a 4k mile road trip, I waited till 6k for oil change, and could have gone a good bit more.

Bottom line, my OCI varies, but I don't want my tire rotation mileage to vary.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:56 AM   #8
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If anyone is interested in saving some money, I have two Yokohama AVID S34 P205/50R17 tires sitting in my garage. I took them off of my 2012 Sport Limited the day after I bought it and they only have 41 miles on them. PM me if you are interested.

As for alternate tires, I put on the Goodyear Assurance Comfortread Touring tires when I first bought my car and I have been loving them so far. I have a bit over 45K miles on them and still have 7/32" of tread remaining. They started off at 11/32" so I am about at the halfway mark for usable tread(2/32" is the lower limit). I have not been a good tire owner as I only rotated them once at about 22K miles but the tread-wear is even across all tires. These tires are phenominal in the snow and resist hydroplaning very nicely. They are also significantly smoother and quieter then the OEM tires. If the tread-wear continues in the same fashion then I will likely be replacing them at about 90K miles with an identical set.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:56 AM   #9
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I have 25k miles and they're still pretty good. I'm going to replace them before winter because they are **** in poor weather. Traction control was the only thing keeping me on the road last winter.

I'm looking at some Continental PureContact All Season grand touring. I'm really not doing any performance driving, and would appreciate the long tread life.
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by foghelmut View Post
I have 25k miles and they're still pretty good. I'm going to replace them before winter because they are **** in poor weather. Traction control was the only thing keeping me on the road last winter.
I agree, they really are not good tires. Getting and dedicated snow tires soon (have the 16" rims already) and next year I will probably replace the OEMs with a 3 season tire
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:59 PM   #11
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The stock tires are garbage. I rotated my tires every 5,000 miles. After the 4th rotation, just before I hit 20k miles, I started noticing more road noise, lots of vibration and abysmal performance in the rain. By 22k miles, the stock tires were worn to the wear bars. And all I use my Impreza for is daily commuting and several road trips!

I thought this much wear was abnormal, even for OEM tires, so I had my Subaru dealer look at it. Everything checked out, including the alignment. The dealer admitted the stock tires Subaru was putting on the Imprezas were no good (his words exactly), and indicated that I wasn't the first owner with this complaint.

So: anyone who's getting more than 25-30k out of the stock tires in your Subaru, consider yourself lucky!!

I'm about to replace them with the Continental PureContacts. Heard great things about them from multiple sources.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:16 PM   #12
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mine have 25k on them and still have over 1/2 the tread left
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:03 PM   #13
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the continental Purecontacts look like a tamed down Extremecontact DWS, kind of exactly what I will be looking for next spring when I take my snow tires off

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....m=05VR7PURECXL

Quote:
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I'm looking at some Continental PureContact All Season grand touring. I'm really not doing any performance driving, and would appreciate the long tread life.
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:36 PM   #14
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I'm getting Continental ExtremeContact DWS (Dry, Wet, Snow) put on this Friday. 29k was pretty low miles for me. I drive mostly highway. These stock tires cupped on the inside and VERY loud. I will have a 4 wheel alignment done after the new tires get put on. I'll be glad to get back to a quieter ride. These new ones should get me through winter. Next winter probably get winter tires.

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Old 07-30-2013, 06:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BazookaBlue View Post
I'm getting Continental ExtremeContact DWS (Dry, Wet, Snow) put on this Friday. 29k was pretty low miles for me. I drive mostly highway. These stock tires cupped on the inside and VERY loud. I will have a 4 wheel alignment done after the new tires get put on. I'll be glad to get back to a quieter ride. These new ones should get me through winter. Next winter probably get winter tires.

and an Alignment?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
and an Alignment?
I always get an alignment after putting on new tires. I usually have dedicated winter rims and winter tires but I think I might just skip the rims this time. Have them mounted and remounted. Haven't decided on that yet. The new Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires should get me through the first winter o.k. My Nokian Hakkapelittas that I had on my 2006 RAV4 lasted 5 years. Those were great winter tires.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:15 PM   #17
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well, I just got home and checked my tires, I am at 3/32" to go before the wear bars(5/32 left) and I am at 25k on the odometer and 26k accounting for error. they start with 10/32" so that is including the 2/32 for wear bars, correct? that means i have used 62% of the usable life in that mileage, and if i do the math on that I might be able to get up to about 40k total out of them.

after my trip this week, I just might have to get new tires I was planning to get snow tires, but I just might be ordering normal tires first
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:42 AM   #18
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OEM tires generally don't last - they are, as myrt pointed out, optimized for low RR. Wifey hit a curb at 15k and the tires were at less than 50% (despite being aired up to +3 or 4 psi) so had to get a new set due to AWD. I got Pirelli Cinturato P7's and have been happy with them. I usually get Michelins and typically get over 100k miles on them, but went with Pirelli this time for a change.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BazookaBlue View Post
I usually have dedicated winter rims and winter tires but I think I might just skip the rims this time.
I'm not fond of this practice. I figure it costs approximately $20/wheel to get tires mounted and balanced. So you're going to pay approximately $80 every time you switch from summer to winter tires, and vice versa. That's $160/year to switch your tires back and forth on the same rims.

In the meantime, you're not saving any storage space because a tire with rims takes just as much space as a tire without rims.

Furthermore, I always wonder if the removal/reinstallation process causes stress/wear/tear on a tire as it's being repeatedly popped off and onto the rim. Probably not a problem, but I wonder about it.

How long would it take before it was cheaper to just buy a set of steelies or used alloy rims for your winter tires (not to mention the convenience of not having to bring everything to the tire shop for remounting)?
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:53 PM   #20
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^ On the plus side you wouldn't have to worry about TPMS, which can get expensive to reprogram everytime you switch wheels.

But ideally, I would still get 2 sets.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehnm View Post
OEM tires generally don't last - they are, as myrt pointed out, optimized for low RR. Wifey hit a curb at 15k and the tires were at less than 50% (despite being aired up to +3 or 4 psi) so had to get a new set due to AWD. I got Pirelli Cinturato P7's and have been happy with them. I usually get Michelins and typically get over 100k miles on them, but went with Pirelli this time for a change.
i have ran my tires at +3psi for the entire time so far, the middle 3rd is about 1/32" less tread than the rest
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
I'm not fond of this practice. I figure it costs approximately $20/wheel to get tires mounted and balanced. So you're going to pay approximately $80 every time you switch from summer to winter tires, and vice versa. That's $160/year to switch your tires back and forth on the same rims.

In the meantime, you're not saving any storage space because a tire with rims takes just as much space as a tire without rims.

Furthermore, I always wonder if the removal/reinstallation process causes stress/wear/tear on a tire as it's being repeatedly popped off and onto the rim. Probably not a problem, but I wonder about it.

How long would it take before it was cheaper to just buy a set of steelies or used alloy rims for your winter tires (not to mention the convenience of not having to bring everything to the tire shop for remounting)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by myrt1987 View Post
^ On the plus side you wouldn't have to worry about TPMS, which can get expensive to reprogram everytime you switch wheels.

But ideally, I would still get 2 sets.
I agree with all of this and have the winter after this one to decide. The TPMS has been a consideration. Most likely I will get the steel rims at that time for winter tire use. Another consideration is salt damage to the stock alloys.

Back to the stock tires... I put on 25k a year driving, so they lasted a little over a year. They were terrible in the snow last winter. I thought I could stretch them to make it just before winter before buying again but I guess that is not the case.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the Conti DWS's do in the dry, wet and snow conditions. According to the tire rack site
Quote:
The ExtremeContact DWS features Tuned Performance Indicators — visible letters molded into the second rib from the outboard shoulder to alert drivers of the tire's performance levels. A visible "DWS" indicates the tire has sufficient tread depth for dry conditions, as well as wet roads and light snow. After the "S" has worn away, the remaining "DW" indicates the tire only has sufficient tread depth for dry and most wet road conditions. And after the "W" and "S" have both worn away, the remaining "D" indicates the tire has appropriate tread depth for dry conditions only.

Last edited by BazookaBlue; 07-31-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:33 PM   #23
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Stock tire at 29k. You can see the chop on the inside...



New Conti DWS you an see the DWS indicator in the tread...






Last edited by BazookaBlue; 08-02-2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:47 PM   #24
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BB did all 4 tires wear the same? what psi was that tire at? Thats pretty bald.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrt1987 View Post
BB did all 4 tires wear the same? what psi was that tire at? Thats pretty bald.
Yes, all did the same. I never checked the pressure, always had the dealer do the rotations and service. All had cupped on the inside. The noise was insane, much better now.
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