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Old 08-02-2013, 06:36 PM   #1
Drewswrx
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World Rally Blue

Default 08 wrx built and tuned by me

Event: Road tuning car
Location: Milford CT
Ambient temp: 87*
Elevation: 6ft above sea level
Weather: hot sunny and humid
Road conditions: concrete street straight and flat
Car: 08 Subaru Wrx
Tuner: Myself Drew Rowley
Dyno info: Using ttdyno software very accurate
Transmission: Stock 5 speed tranny
Gear: 3rd gear pull
Peak WHP: 330@6400rpm
Peak torque: 353@4200rpm
Target boost: 19.5psi
Target AFR: 11:1 AFR
Fuel: 93 octane
Hey everyone I just wanted to share a project I just finished last weekend. I have an 08 wrx rally blue 2.5L I did mods on the engine interior and suspension.

Engine mods:

VF52 turbo
Perrin CAI
Perrin turbo inlet
Perrin Fmic
Perrin fuel rail
Perrin light weight crank pulley
DW 750cc inj
DW 65c fuel pump
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed 8mm spacers
cx racing ewg and uppipe
Grimmspeed adj iwg bracket
Grimmspeed Air oil seperator
Cobb XLE BPV
Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
Perrin EL headers
Invidia catless DP
Invidia Q300 CB Exhaust
Optima red top battery

Engine management:
Cobb Accessport
Tuned with Cobb Accesstuner race

Engine dress up:
Perrin battery tie down
Perrin radiator shroud
Perrin alt cover
Perrin master cylinder brace
Perrin pitch stop mount

Suspension:
Perrin front strut tower
Perrin 25mm adj front sway bar
Perrin 22mm adj rear sway bar
Perrin heavy duty front endlinks
Perrin adj rear endlinks
K-Sport adj coilovers
Megan racing front chassis H-brace
Whiteline rear sway bar braces

Interior:
DEFI boost gauge
DEFI fuel pressure gauge
Innovate wideband O2 gauge
SYM cluster double gauge pod
G-Force 5 point harness
Cobb adj short shifter
Cobb shifter bushings

Exterior:
APR racing front splitter
Grillcraft lower grill
Grillcraft hood scoop grill
09 wrx front grill
Brembo front and rear gran tarismo big brake system
Goodridge steel brake lines front and rear

This tune at the bottom here is the original tune I updated a few parts here and doing a retune. I will post numbers as soon as I am done retuning.

Once I put all these things on the car I used an e-tune by Eric Mineheart to get by for a while and I started studying engine management and tuning ecu's. Itm took about a year of research reading and studying before I felt comfortable enough to start going into my ecu and changing things. I spent a good two days road tuning my car and got my numbers where I wanted them for now with no knock issues or any other issues. Here are my final numbers for now.
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Last edited by Drewswrx; 11-25-2013 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Updated for more mods added to car
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:00 PM   #2
Drewswrx
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:08 PM   #3
Drewswrx
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My goals for the future are to race the car in time attack. I want to go with the bigger rotated turbo setup from perrin. I also want to upgrade my ball joints and tie rods and the biggest thing I want to do is put the 6 speed STI tranny in my car. There is always things to do. I am done for now but I feel like I have nothing to do. I do have a Cusco catch can to put in I am just trying to map out where I want to install it. I had to take one of my intercooler pipes off for something the other day and there was a little to much oil in the pipes.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:51 AM   #4
FCmaniac
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Good job man, it's rewarding to do all that yourself. All the hard work definitely has paid off.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:53 AM   #5
02h20
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Nice job and nice car.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #6
Drewswrx
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Thanks guys, I'll tell you what I give tuners a big thumbs up. There is a lot that goes into getting a good tune. The easiest thing I tuned was the injectors. I put the stock air box on reflashed my map with the stock maf calibration and tuned the injectors. Took me like 30 min. Then put my Intake back in tuned the maf up to like 3.6v. I found it easier for me to log and use cobbs calibration sheet to help dial in the part throttle and cruise numbers. That took a long time to get it right on. Then the timing for wot, that took a little while but well worth the work. I encourage people who have their own wrx or sti and do their own work. It is possible to learn about your engine management system. There is so much info out there to help. Road tuning is harder but is fun also.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:08 PM   #7
Drewswrx
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I have a question for you guys out there. How can you tell how quickly your spooling and if your spooling is good or needs some work? Any help would be great. Is there anything in my tune I can do to help the spooling or can you tell from my graph that spooling is ok? Thanks guys.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:58 AM   #8
Drewswrx
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Never mind it looks like its getting to full spool up just after 3k. So to update my question. Is that good or can I make that better and should I try to make that better or just leave it. I made another map today raising boost to 22psi. Didn't have a chance to log it yet. Was going to try to do it this week. See if maybe I can get a little bit higher numbers for when someone wants to try to take me on. Lol
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:29 PM   #9
Nimbus09
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props to doing the tune yourself. haven't gotten the courage to touch my maps. for example, if i see knock at 3500, should i drop the timing, increase fueling, drop boost..? and if i do one of the three, will i have to touch up any of the other two or maybe even something else. and, how many cells should you back off on. not crazy complicated, but at the risk of damaging an engine, probably best not to mess around
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:59 PM   #10
Drewswrx
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Hhhhh
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:00 PM   #11
Drewswrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimbus09 View Post
props to doing the tune yourself. haven't gotten the courage to touch my maps. for example, if i see knock at 3500, should i drop the timing, increase fueling, drop boost..? and if i do one of the three, will i have to touch up any of the other two or maybe even something else. and, how many cells should you back off on. not crazy complicated, but at the risk of damaging an engine, probably best not to mess around
If your talking about wot and you see knock at 3500 I would take that table, load and rpm, and then back the timing off just a tad and recheck. Our cars run right on the line between power and knock. I would only add fuel if I was getting knock because of detonation the little bit of fuel or even back off the boost a little will help cool that cylinder down. I studied and read and learned through trial and error before I got my car tuned the way I wanted it. I just don't like someone else doing something to my car and I don't understand what he did. Cause any one could tune the car their way and mess it up and I wouldn't even know it. I had that issue with an etune I got. Because he locked me out of the map I could see why my car was over boosting and running like crap. He just kept saying it was a problem on my end. I have been a mechanic for over 15 years and I had no me handicap problem. If you want pm me and I can give you some pointers what to look for and what material to read. And thank you for the compliments.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:11 PM   #12
Leafy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewswrx View Post
Never mind it looks like its getting to full spool up just after 3k. So to update my question. Is that good or can I make that better and should I try to make that better or just leave it. I made another map today raising boost to 22psi. Didn't have a chance to log it yet. Was going to try to do it this week. See if maybe I can get a little bit higher numbers for when someone wants to try to take me on. Lol
Easy way you'll make it better in the tune is commanding more duty cycle on the ebcs at a lower rpm. I bet you're already doing that. The harder way is making sure your running the right amount of spark advance. You want to either be just below the knock limit or at mean best torque timing, dont go past either.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:58 PM   #13
Drewswrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Easy way you'll make it better in the tune is commanding more duty cycle on the ebcs at a lower rpm. I bet you're already doing that. The harder way is making sure your running the right amount of spark advance. You want to either be just below the knock limit or at mean best torque timing, dont go past either.
I am right below the knock limit. I ran my second to last run wot got -2 & -1 FKL backed the timing .5* and no knock, fueling is good and it's boosting good too. When I floor it the power comes on smooth and strong, it feels good. It's real nice at cruising also. I have started another map off this one I made, I am bringing the boost up to 22, bringing the WGDC up a little and pulling primary ignition 1-2* to see what I get. I want to see if I can dial in a more aggressive tune for when I wanna show off.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:09 PM   #14
Leafy
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Go on the rom raider forums and download the software and look at what other people are doing. Thats one of the ways to become a better tuner, figure out what other people are doing and why they do it. IE if you're not commanding 80 WGDC a few hundred rpm before 3k rpm at full requested torque you're not going full out to make the turbo spool sooner.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:13 PM   #15
Drewswrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Go on the rom raider forums and download the software and look at what other people are doing. Thats one of the ways to become a better tuner, figure out what other people are doing and why they do it. IE if you're not commanding 80 WGDC a few hundred rpm before 3k rpm at full requested torque you're not going full out to make the turbo spool sooner.
Thanks ill do that. I love this tuning stuff I'm hooked. It took me a long time of reading and studying to learn cobbs ATR and tune my wrx myself and make safe power. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #16
BlazeRex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Go on the rom raider forums and download the software and look at what other people are doing. Thats one of the ways to become a better tuner, figure out what other people are doing and why they do it. IE if you're not commanding 80 WGDC a few hundred rpm before 3k rpm at full requested torque you're not going full out to make the turbo spool sooner.
IME it doesnt make a huge difference commanding such a high WGDC that low RPM. You must be careful when doing this too...

And you should not set timing just below knock on spool up. If you are, you're running much too much advance.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:35 PM   #17
Leafy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
IME it doesnt make a huge difference commanding such a high WGDC that low RPM. You must be careful when doing this too...

And you should not set timing just below knock on spool up. If you are, you're running much too much advance.
2 fairly good points. There is a difference down that low, though its small that 10psi wastegate can is still going to start to open at 1 psi if you leave it to its own devices.

And you are correct, thats why I specified not to go past the knock limit nor mean best torque.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:50 PM   #18
Drewswrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
IME it doesnt make a huge difference commanding such a high WGDC that low RPM. You must be careful when doing this too...

And you should not set timing just below knock on spool up. If you are, you're running much too much advance.
It's just below knock at like 4500-5500 rpm. That's the area I was seeing knock. When I get a chance I will run some data logs and post them. Just keep your eye on this thread if you're interested in it. Thanks guys.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:55 PM   #19
Leafy
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The rings on these cars seem fairly fragile, I probably wouldnt do any more high load spark tuning without knock ears on, and of course you really cant do much low load spark tuning without being on a load varying dyno (mustang, dynapac, etc).
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:05 PM   #20
Drewswrx
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I've been doing road tuning as if I was on a dyno. I have a street near me that is flat and straight and long so it's been very helpful.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:06 PM   #21
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Stupid question but what are knock ears?
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:09 AM   #22
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my knock ears :

http://www.linkecu.com/products/Tuni.../g4-knockblock

I have it integrated into my computer, but you can also make a amplifier circuit if you search on google with headphone jacks and everything. JR told me about that one after I spent 600 on the knock block.
Levon
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:34 AM   #23
Leafy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
my knock ears :

http://www.linkecu.com/products/Tuni.../g4-knockblock

I have it integrated into my computer, but you can also make a amplifier circuit if you search on google with headphone jacks and everything. JR told me about that one after I spent 600 on the knock block.
Levon
Wow thats expensive, I'll stick with the DIY mechanical version that only costs $12 to make and requires no wiring or batteries. $2.99 HF ear muffs, 6" of copper tube, 10ft of fuel line, and a little hot glue. Or if you find the need for amplification you can make the electronic HF version for like $40. That knock box just does more than anyone with the stock ecu or any halfway decent stand alone needs since everything but the ear parts is already taken care of.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:11 PM   #24
Drewswrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
IME it doesnt make a huge difference commanding such a high WGDC that low RPM. You must be careful when doing this too...

And you should not set timing just below knock on spool up. If you are, you're running much too much advance.
Question for you, if I'm still getting more torque out of the motor with adding timing but getting knock is there any other trick I can do to get rid of the knock? I ask because I know MBT is when the motor is at its peat torque with out detonation. I just didn't know, since I'm still kind of new and learning, if I can safely get more power? It seems like the motor wants to give more but I don't want to take any chances, if you know what I mean. The timing part of tuning has been the longest and hardest part of this tuning process. Maf calibration wasn't even this much of a pain in the ass. Do you have like a starting number you shoot for then start adjusting from there?
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:19 PM   #25
Leafy
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You can add more fuel but that'll lower torque. You kind of have to play the game to figure out whether more timing and more fuel or less timing and less fuel make more torque. And once you get to that you have to look at what its doing to your egts. I haven't tuned a turbo car that was so close to the limit that I started playing that game, just N/A.
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