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Old 08-05-2013, 12:22 PM   #1
cowboy_Rob
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Default Any way to adjust this?

So I had the car driving before on a kstech megamaf I scaled without really knowing injector size. Modded injectors I put 780 and adjusted the rest till it ran

Now I changed to real 1000cc's and am rescaling everything since I was clearly off on the injector size.

Also added cams. My big problem now is no matter what I do to the scaling it drops very lean coming to idle. Even if its scaled so rich that it idles rich. Any ideas why? No mechanical issues. 50/50 aps bpv/bov set stuff enough its fully recirc except high boost. I wouldn't mind the lean dip under no load but with the cams, lightweight flywheel and lightweight crank pulley it has a tendency of wanting to stall unless you feather the throttle a bit just above idle then it will catch and idle fine. Just cleaned the iacv hoping that would fix it and it helped some but still does it.
Any way to adjust it so when your cruising the push in the clutch to stop for a red light rpm drops and starts to catch it at 1000 then slowly comes down to 900 rather then dropping straight to 900 rpm base idle? I understand its not the ideal setup huge maf big injectors big cams and a 16 bit ecu with all the values halved to workaround the 300gs limit but I was hoping for something. For example the Evo/dsm guys have a base idle air bleed screw so they just crank that up so the base idle is higher and the computer runs most of the time with the iacv almost closed. That way on sharp throttle drop it has a lot more room to give it air with the iacv to catch it

I was thinking about bumping up the throttle stop screw for a similar defect but I wasn't sure how well that would work. Obviously I'd need to adj adjust the tps so closed throttle read correctly
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
fastblueufo
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Switch to a speed density tune.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:45 PM   #3
dux10
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Do you have your latency values setup/dialed in properly?

Steve @ Pullz-on Tuning
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:05 PM   #4
cowboy_Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dux10 View Post
Do you have your latency values setup/dialed in properly?

Steve @ Pullz-on Tuning
Latency is set at the specs from deutchwerks. I can double check it tommoro at work and make sure I didn't cross a digit or something
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:15 PM   #5
cowboy_Rob
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Also while I'm at it. What is the reason for idle speed a b c and d? They were all set the same so I just bumped them all up evenly but what circumstances does it use each
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:20 PM   #6
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Dont use the DW stock latencies. Go over to the RR forums and find out which set you have and what the latencies really should be. I have tuned two sets and both sets hated the specs provided by DW.....
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #7
cowboy_Rob
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Dont use the DW stock latencies. Go over to the RR forums and find out which set you have and what the latencies really should be. I have tuned two sets and both sets hated the specs provided by DW.....
Good to know. Gotta run right now but I will look for that.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:57 PM   #8
dux10
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Yea, DW latencies are NEVER right. They are a good starting point though...

Read up on how to scale latency and see how you come out. PM if you need some help.

Steve @ Pullz-on Tuning
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:21 PM   #9
cowboy_Rob
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Now I'm getting somewhere. Ran it around a bit on the injector tab put in the suggested latency from there a d it's going much easier now. Still gotta play with maf scaling now but at the moment it's pretty happy thinking my 1000 cc injectors are 800. At least it's not overshooting all its fuel trim corrections anymore
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:25 PM   #10
cowboy_Rob
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Still kinda confused on how to determine if its maf scaling, injector scaling or injector latency. Seems like most people just say not to worry about it but I'm OCD. But without stock injectors or a stock intake I don't think I can narrow it down enough to have anything that's not a variable
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:32 PM   #11
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If you're OCD, get rid of those DWs. Get ID's with real flow matching and balancing. I had a local car with SEVERE stalling issues on DWs. Switched to IDs, it ran like a new car.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #12
dux10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_Rob View Post
Still kinda confused on how to determine if its maf scaling, injector scaling or injector latency. Seems like most people just say not to worry about it but I'm OCD. But without stock injectors or a stock intake I don't think I can narrow it down enough to have anything that's not a variable
That's the hard part about it unless you have an injector database to pick values from (I have one after doing countless cars/injectors). For what its worth, I never use the injector tab in RR. Use the steps outilned here to help you out with the scaling:
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22338

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
If you're OCD, get rid of those DWs. Get ID's with real flow matching and balancing. I had a local car with SEVERE stalling issues on DWs. Switched to IDs, it ran like a new car.

Eric's right- I never recommend DW's to my customers. They're inconsistent and can be troublesome to tune. Each set is different from the next.

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:17 AM   #13
cowboy_Rob
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Bump for another really weird question. I adjusted the scaling and latency around and have it driving nice most of the time. I overshot my cranking/warmup enrichment adjustments so I gotta pull them back a hair it doesn't like to start hot.


The weird question is are there any vehicle speed based idle compensations?

If I'm idling at a red light clutch in on the brakes idle smooth 850-950. If I let off the brakes and coast forward downhill the rpm drops almost to stalling. Thought maybe it was due to vacuum changes from letting on n off the brakes but it seems speed related since I tried holding myself stopped with the parking brake and then coasting. Soon as it starts to roll forward the idle drops. Pretty annoying every morning there's a traffic light I sit at with a slight downhill and it does it every time
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #14
dux10
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Check your base timing idle (in-gear) (above/below speed threshold) tables. Adjust these or the threshold value. Default value is set to 1mph I believe.

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:14 PM   #15
cowboy_Rob
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Interesting I knew I saw something speed based somewhere but I couldn't find it. Makes sense I didn't even think timing I was looking at all the fueling maps. Wonder why that would need tweaked. Is the sti and wrx crank timing gears the same? Ill have to check my receipts and see which I ordered

I'm gonna PayPal you something once I get this all sorted. I'm too stubborn and wanna do it myself to just have you tune it but you've been a huge help
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:00 PM   #16
dux10
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well, watch injector #1 pulse width on the RR screen and Total timing. Then roll forward. See what changes/fluctuates when you start rolling.

I forget, is this a 16bit or 32 bit car man?

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy_Rob View Post
Interesting I knew I saw something speed based somewhere but I couldn't find it. Makes sense I didn't even think timing I was looking at all the fueling maps. Wonder why that would need tweaked. Is the sti and wrx crank timing gears the same? Ill have to check my receipts and see which I ordered

I'm gonna PayPal you something once I get this all sorted. I'm too stubborn and wanna do it myself to just have you tune it but you've been a huge help
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:04 PM   #17
cowboy_Rob
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16 bit 03 wrx ecu. Sti long block with crower wrx cams wrx cam gears
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:57 AM   #18
dux10
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Ever get anywhere with this??

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:48 PM   #19
cowboy_Rob
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Originally Posted by dux10 View Post
Ever get anywhere with this??

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning
Not yet I looked and the base timing is set at 11.9 in both tables speed changeover is at 1. I need to log it and see exactly what it's doing. It seems more consistent in the morning before its completely warmed up so it may be related to that too
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