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Old 05-13-2014, 11:45 AM   #1
xdeathwishx
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Default td04->vf30 tuning

I just swapped my td04 for a vf30 and added a 3 port EBCS, but I'm a bit short on time this week for tuning. What is the safest thing to do so that I can just get around town with it?

I read in the tuning guides that initially when tuning boost you set all WGDC to 0 to get a read on how the turbo behaves. I imagine this is also a pretty safe place to be when you don't have a tune yet. Is that all you have to set? What about the boost targets? Can I just leave the boost targets and other stuff as is and set WGDC to 0 and it'll just run at spring pressure and other than being slow nothing bad will happen?

I know this has probably been answered but I'm not sure what words to search.

Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:00 PM   #2
ProfessWRX
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Yes do that.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:04 PM   #3
Fender137
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Time to bust out that bicycle. Don't drive.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:48 PM   #4
xdeathwishx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fender137 View Post
Time to bust out that bicycle. Don't drive.
Who have you been talking to? I actually did just that today. Weather is getting nice!
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:21 PM   #5
xdeathwishx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessWRX View Post
Yes do that.
Thanks! I just went out and zeroed out the max wgdc and took a test drive and I did not die in a fire.

I originally just planned to swap injectors from stock wrx injectors to ID1000, but taking that intake manifold off is a bitch, and it's easy to get carried away with "well while I have this off, I might as well do this too...". I ended up making a parallel PTFE fuel line setup, swapping inlets, adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, adding a 3 port ebcs, deleting TGVs, and swapping turbos all at once.

Once everything was back together I was a little scared to try and start it to be honest, but it worked out OK. At first actually it would not idle, and after checking everything like 4 times over, I took the IACV off and cleaned it which fixed it right away. The local stealership actually even had the gasket in stock (2 of them even). I took the throttle body off when I took off the intake manifold and I guess the IACV was exposed to the elements too long.

The ID1000 provided values for scaling and latencies seem to be spot on, which is surprising since everyone claims that they don't really flow 1000cc. I was a bit afraid that the idle would suck as well since I see a lot of posts about TGV deletes mucking up the cold start idle, and that injectors this big on a 2.0L make the idle rough. I just plugged in the provided values and the idle was indistinguishable from stock.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:49 AM   #6
scoobywrx04
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I'm in the same boat just got vf30 and I'm still putting the stuff together for the rest of the mods I need and I keep saying hmm whiles if off..... Might save swapping injectors for my shop when I get the tune done
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:02 PM   #7
xdeathwishx
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In retrospect doing it all at once wasn't all that bad. If you just put the wastegate duty cycle at zero you can safely tune the injectors just as easily as you could if you had only swapped injectors so there's not really a benefit to doing them separately. In fact if you tune for most of the other stuff without the new injectors, you're going to have to go back and do it all over because now you can run more boost.

The real issue is if you swapped intake and injectors at the same time, then it's a bit more tricky because you're tuning 2 parameters that can each be used to fix the same thing so it's unclear which one you should adjust. Although even there, if your injectors were flow tested and you can get accurate data for them then you can just plug those numbers in and adjust MAF accordingly. But you shouldn't need to change the intake for a vf30 at all.

By the way, power of the VF30 is a huge difference. I'm running 22lbs of boost on e85 with it, it's like a completely different car than with the td04.
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