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Old 09-09-2013, 08:31 AM   #1
blehhh
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Default Need A Header Bolt-to-Bolt Dimension. Please Help!

So I picked up a set of Perrin ELH & uppipe last week, and sanded/cleaned/polished the daylights out of it. It's one of the older two-piece / slip-joint headers though, so I need to get it welded so it won't leak. I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me the exact center-to-center distance between the two inside bolts on an EJ so that I can weld it in the right place?

I can see the rubbings mark on the pipes that would probably be a safe bet to line up and weld it, but I don't want to take any chances.

And in my defense of the obvious suggestion to just go measure it myself, it's my DD, it's getting welded on Friday and I have no means of welding it after I get the car in the air, the stock manifold off, etc.

(That's a Tsudo N1 exhaust I picked up & polished too. Installed it, loved it for about 15 miles, decided it was too loud & boomy, aaaaaand now it's FS... fml.)

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Last edited by blehhh; 09-09-2013 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:53 AM   #2
tuzzio
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If I were you. I would get it bolted up and tack it.

Then take it off and weld it.
It'll be a PITA but at least you know it'll like up
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:13 AM   #3
JonnyV2889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
If I were you. I would get it bolted up and tack it.

Then take it off and weld it.
It'll be a PITA but at least you know it'll like up
This. When I installed my GT ones just because one tube lined up the second runner needed to finessed to fit. You'd really need a jig or spare block to do it correctly off the car, or you shoot yourself in the foot.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:34 AM   #4
blehhh
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I know you guys are right, but I don't know if that's possible for me. I won't have access to both welding and a garage at the same time. My friends Invidia Race ELH was all heat warped by several MMs and he was able to persuade it into alignment, so I'm not too concerned but still...

I was just hoping someone would know the bolt dimensions for a header design that hasn't changed in 11 years.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:42 AM   #5
ride5000
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i'd like to know this too, so i can repair a busted tubular header.

i had thought of using two plumb lines...
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:51 AM   #6
blehhh
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I just sent an e-mail to Perrin asking for jig dimensions We'll see if they can stand behind an old product and help me out... or tell me to go get bent.

EDIT: Chris from Perrin just got back to me: 16 7/8" (but of course echo'd the obvious suggestion).

I think I probably would have had them about 1/16th" too close together. The rub marks do still line up, I just wasn't looking at it quite right the first time I guess.

Last edited by blehhh; 09-09-2013 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:16 PM   #7
blehhh
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Little bump of an update here: I had a local shop (Lou's Custom Exhaust) weld the slip-joints, (free of charge to my surprise!), and I installed it last night back home in the trailer shop.

The fitment was definitely off by about 1/8th of an inch, and the flanges were a little duck-footed, but with a simple cargo strap snaked through the driver-side wheel well I was able to apply a tiny bit of pressure and it slipped right on. huge relief! I thought I had a $300 paper weight for a while there...

No revisions to the tune yet, but it already pulls harder and the AFR, FBKC / FLKC, boost pressure, etc all look great. Time for a tad more timing

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Old 09-14-2013, 05:40 PM   #8
Andrewxxcarlson
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Can I have your work space?
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