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Old 09-10-2013, 06:47 PM   #1
Bleichroeder
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Default P1410 Secondary Fuel Pump

I've been throwing this code on and off for a week or so. I purchased the car from a private dealer around my area and it's currently under a 60 day warranty. I have installed a cat back exhaust and hooked up my boost gauge though and I'm sure they would shut me down if I went back to have them take care of the issue. Just curious if there is any solution to this problem I can take care of myself. I plan on picking up an accessport soon anyway and I'm under the impression I can turn the code "off". Is it bad to drive around with this code? It may be important that I mention one of the times the code was thrown it was accompanied by another code stating the valve was stuck open.


If it helps I drive a 2007 WRX wagon.

Thanks in advance for any help!
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:50 PM   #2
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Also I have utilized the search function and read a few threads on this topic, however I would like a definitive answer from someone with experience.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:06 PM   #3
nate_fisher
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Did you mean secondary air pump? If so you can just get block off plates and an accessport and shut off the codes.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by nate_fisher View Post
Did you mean secondary air pump? If so you can just get block off plates and an accessport and shut off the codes.

Ahhhh yeah stupid mistake! Ok ill look into block plates. Any specific brand I should look for?
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Old 09-10-2013, 08:26 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
Ahhhh yeah stupid mistake! Ok ill look into block plates. Any specific brand I should look for?
there is a whole specific to the year car process that you must follow to have successi

do not **** this up
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:45 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
there is a whole specific to the year car process that you must follow to have successi

do not **** this up

I won't!

Things got a little weird yesterday. I went to drive home from work and the CEL was gone. Still hasn't come back, so I have a theory....

I bought the car from a private dealer 2 weeks ago, the car had been sitting on that lot for god knows how long. Is it possible that the valve rusted over and was stuck open, but now that someone is driving it regularly it has broken itself loose and is able to close? I guess I have to wait and see if the light comes back.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:49 PM   #7
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No... No theories.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
I won't!

Things got a little weird yesterday. I went to drive home from work and the CEL was gone. Still hasn't come back, so I have a theory....

I bought the car from a private dealer 2 weeks ago, the car had been sitting on that lot for god knows how long. Is it possible that the valve rusted over and was stuck open, but now that someone is driving it regularly it has broken itself loose and is able to close? I guess I have to wait and see if the light comes back.
These valves almost always fail, in every year, and in every car. It's almost always starts as an intermittent problem, then catastrophic failure is to be expected. The valve rusts over due to moisture in the combustion process. It is possible since the car has been sitting a while at the dealership, not run for very long that it freed itself, but it WILL rust shut, causing failure, eventually. It's a $1500 fix from the dealer. The dealer should've given you a 60 day/3k mile warranty if its a true, reputable dealer. Go back, document your problem with them.

When it comes back, if they decide they like you, they'll fix it. The most cost effective option is the blocking plates. Torque solution and KS Tech both sell these, however, are a little bit of a bitch to install due to access issues. I do NOT suggest attempting the install of the plate by yourself if you are not mechanically savvy. FWIW, you, yourself, will not able to turn the code off unless you download accesstuner race, or have a protuner do it.

Last edited by sexyyrex; 09-12-2013 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:22 AM   #9
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These valves almost always fail, in every year, and in every car. It's almost always starts as an intermittent problem, then catastrophic failure is to be expected. The valve rusts over due to moisture in the combustion process. It is possible since the car has been sitting a while at the dealership, not run for very long that it freed itself, but it WILL rust shut, causing failure, eventually. It's a $1500 fix from the dealer. The dealer should've given you a 60 day/3k mile warranty if its a true, reputable dealer. Go back, document your problem with them.

When it comes back, if they decide they like you, they'll fix it. The most cost effective option is the blocking plates. Torque solution and KS Tech both sell these, however, are a little bit of a bitch to install due to access issues. I do NOT suggest attempting the install of the plate by yourself if you are not mechanically savvy. FWIW, you, yourself, will not able to turn the code off unless you download accesstuner race, or have a protuner do it.
only a TOTAL moron would go through and actually FIX this

.....delete it....kill the codes and done.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:39 AM   #10
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only a TOTAL moron would go through and actually FIX this

.....delete it....kill the codes and done.
I don't think I suggested he get it fixed. I said if the dealer was going to do it under their used car warranty, then why the hell not? No money out of his pocket, for now, until it rusted shut again.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:55 PM   #11
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Well it came back again today. So I guess it's time to get it fixed. Just worried what the dealer will say about the catback I installed.

So is there a way to have a tuner stop the valves from opening at all and just cap the hose to the motor... or is it necessary to install blocking plates? Really don't feel like dumping this money into such a stupid problem.

Also.. is it imperative that I solve this now? If I continue to drive will it cause serious damage to any components?
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:42 PM   #12
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if the valves are closed, you can pull 2 fuses and the system will be disabled. The valves should normally be closed, unless you have the CEL code for "valve stuck open", in which case you need to either fix or delete the valve.

If you do pull the fuses, you will still need the CELs disabled via a tuner of some sort.

I ran this way for about a year without a problem. The 2 fuses are in an auxiliary fuse box in the engine compartment, adjacent to the relay box (near the master cylinder).

When I had TGV deletes and injectors installed I had the crap torn out and blockoff plates installed, so if you see yourself doing that in the future save the labor until then.

There is a huge thread on here, you should check it out. One of the valves has a pressure sensor you will want to keep.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
Well it came back again today. So I guess it's time to get it fixed. Just worried what the dealer will say about the catback I installed.

So is there a way to have a tuner stop the valves from opening at all and just cap the hose to the motor... or is it necessary to install blocking plates? Really don't feel like dumping this money into such a stupid problem.

Also.. is it imperative that I solve this now? If I continue to drive will it cause serious damage to any components?
The dealer won't give a rats ass about an older Subaru with a catback having an air pump issue. This is a known item that fails often.

Have you read the thread that was linked to you? You delete the system, take it out, block off the necessary parts, and have the tuner disable the codes, not the system. If you can do the work yourself, you save money.

Is it imperative? Yes.

Quote:
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One of the valves has a pressure sensor you will want to keep.
This is true for 07+ only. 06's do NOT have the pressure sensor.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:22 PM   #14
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Yes I've read the thread, I've actually read a few. However, 'm getting conflicting information.

Regardless, I'm assuming if I let the car run, pull the hose running to the pump off and there is no exhaust pumping out, it would mean the valves are closed? If that's the case I will pull the fuses and hold off until I do downpipe and swap my samco hoses in. Know off hand which fuses they are? I'm in an 07 wrx if it makes a difference.

I live close to EFI so I will be taking my car there when it's time to tune.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:31 AM   #15
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Talk to EFI about the pumps.

The codes you pull off the car will tell you stuck open or close.
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
Yes I've read the thread, I've actually read a few. However, 'm getting conflicting information.

Regardless, I'm assuming if I let the car run, pull the hose running to the pump off and there is no exhaust pumping out, it would mean the valves are closed? If that's the case I will pull the fuses and hold off until I do downpipe and swap my samco hoses in. Know off hand which fuses they are? I'm in an 07 wrx if it makes a difference.

I live close to EFI so I will be taking my car there when it's time to tune.
Just get them deleted. Cleans up the engine bay and the plates are 45 bucks and a couple hours of your time. You'll have to keep one valve (the big, purple plug, drivers side valve I believe) as you have an 07 and the barometric pressure sensor is in there.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:40 PM   #17
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Yup I'm gonna hold off until I get my downpipe. I've got some samco lines and other random bits I want to throw in as well.

Today I pulled the codes and I got bank 2 stuck open AND bank 2 stuck closed. I have no idea what to think hahaha.
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:33 PM   #18
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Not something to hold off on, honestly.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:53 PM   #19
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Not something to hold off on, honestly.

yeah.....expecially if they fail OPEN

mine are failed closed...which happened by very happy accident.....and i just reset the ecu whenever the CEL comes on for this....no big deal

but if they are failed OPEN....that needs immediate attention
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:53 PM   #20
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Is this because it will cause the motor to run lean? I checked the code the other day, got stuck open bank 2 and stuck closed bank 2. I unhooked all wiring and reconnected, haven't got the code since. I'm sure it will come back though. I'm pulling off the intercooler tomorrow to check the valves out.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:40 PM   #21
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With all of this over the past few days, my only advice is to save for a new motor. We've told you why and how to fix, do it or not.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #22
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Well like I said I have stuck open and stuck closed on the same valve (bank 2 which i believe is passenger side) which is why I'm pulling the intercooler to check it out. If its stuck closed I'm pulling the fuses and dealing with tuning later. I'd rather replace the valve than block the plates since my year has the aps in one of the valves.

No need to be rude I'm simply asking what damage is occurring to my motor, you say it's bad but don't explain why, great help bro!


So I went down to the gas station just now and the CEL came on once again. I pulled over, pulled the hose off the pump and I felt no air coming out. Checked with my hand over the hose, I even put my nose to it and there was no smell of exhaust fumes at all. I'm going to assume this means the valves are closed. Is there a fuse I can pull that will stop the valves from trying to open? I see one for the pump but nothing specifically for the valves themselves.

Last edited by Bleichroeder; 09-14-2013 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:27 PM   #23
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Not sure on yours, but 08+ it is labeled "air cut". 10 AMP fuse near the pump fuse. I just left the valves closed and pulled the pump and plastic hose bits because lazy. Disable cels with ATR and done. One of my first mods. It was annoying to hear that stupid pump and it makes changing out plugs much better. I pulled the fuses with the car running at operating temp to make sure that they were closed. Good luck.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #24
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Not sure on yours, but 08+ it is labeled "air cut". 10 AMP fuse near the pump fuse. I just left the valves closed and pulled the pump and plastic hose bits because lazy. Disable cels with ATR and done. One of my first mods. It was annoying to hear that stupid pump and it makes changing out plugs much better. I pulled the fuses with the car running at operating temp to make sure that they were closed. Good luck.
Thanks! There is in fact a 10a fuse located with the relay and pump fuse. Ill try it out tonight.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:45 PM   #25
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The pump only works during start up. It does not constantly run.
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