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Old 09-15-2013, 01:14 PM   #26
Hoon Goon
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The pump only works during start up. It does not constantly run.
True that.
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:40 PM   #27
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The pump only works during start up. It does not constantly run.
I feel really dumb like I'm not understanding you guys... Is what controls the valves also controlled by what turns on the pump? Removing the pump fuse should stop the valves from opening?
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:22 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
I feel really dumb like I'm not understanding you guys... Is what controls the valves also controlled by what turns on the pump? Removing the pump fuse should stop the valves from opening?
there are 2 fuses, one for the pump, one for the valves.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:04 PM   #29
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there are 2 fuses, one for the pump, one for the valves.
Got it, pulled the codes today, came up as p1410 and p2443 stuck closed. Immediately pulled the 10a fuse labeled air cut. Hopefully this is what you're talking about and I'm good until I get a tune for it.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:25 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post

Got it, pulled the codes today, came up as p1410 and p2443 stuck closed. Immediately pulled the 10a fuse labeled air cut. Hopefully this is what you're talking about and I'm good until I get a tune for it.
That is the one.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #31
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That is the one.
I also pulled the pump relay and the pump fuse, didn't want the pump pushing air into the hose with the valves closed. Hopefully that's O.K. I guess it would be alright at this point to block off the hose running to the pump and pull the pump out completely?
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:53 PM   #32
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Pulling a fuse doesn't make the one stuck open close. Bad things can and will happen from that.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:07 PM   #33
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Pulling a fuse doesn't make the one stuck open close. Bad things can and will happen from that.
It's stuck closed bro.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:54 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post

I also pulled the pump relay and the pump fuse, didn't want the pump pushing air into the hose with the valves closed. Hopefully that's O.K. I guess it would be alright at this point to block off the hose running to the pump and pull the pump out completely?
Pull that motha. Not really necessary at this point, but it is easy. I went ahead and pulled the line from the pump to drivers side valve as well and I plan on using the block of plates when I get a wild hair.

He would know it by sound if one of the valves was stuck open methinks... Does not sound good at all. What a worthless system. Thanks EPA!

Last edited by Hoon Goon; 09-15-2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:25 PM   #35
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Pull that motha. Not really necessary at this point, but it is easy. I went ahead and pulled the line from the pump to drivers side valve as well and I plan on using the block of plates when I get a wild hair.

He would know it by sound if one of the valves was stuck open methinks... Does not sound good at all. What a worthless system. Thanks EPA!
Yep, I've checked multiple times by removing the hose from the pump while the car is running. I even had a friend pump the gas while the hose was off. I felt nothing coming out of the hose either time. Finally when I pulled codes this afternoon I saw bank 2 valve stuck closed and that's when I jumped on the opportunity to pull the fuses and relay.

What was confusing was the fact I would throw the stuck open and stuck closed codes on the same valve sometimes. Luckily this time it was closed and if I'm correct, I can pull the pump and plug the hose at the Y piece and be OK until I get blocking plates and swing by EFI.

Really stupid idea to use this system in the first place but I would prefer having this as a working system than have a cat in the up pipe. Thanks to everyone who helped out, I apologize for being slow I just picked up the car and I'm new to the forum. I would still like to know IF the valve was stuck open, what damage would this cause to the motor? I've read on other forums it wouldn't be a big deal there would just be exhaust gasses floating around in the system. Just curious!

If I run into any issues with the system I will post them here, hopefully I won't though...
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:28 AM   #36
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Having the same error on my 13' WRX after installing a Blouch 20G-XTR and all the fixings. We installed the deletes and everything but if the car sits long enough I get the error and flashing cruise control. I clear it and restart, goes away. This just started happening after the install and no performance or driving change. Calling COBB tomorrow to see what they say.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:27 PM   #37
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Thought I would update. By pulling the fuses it stops the pump and valves from operating. However removing the relay with throw the car into limp mode, effectively limiting boost to 5 lbs. I reinstalled the relay while leaving the fuses out and I have yet to throw a CEL. Of course once I cold start in the morning I most likely will, this time at least I will know the valves are closed!
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #38
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Thought I would update. By pulling the fuses it stops the pump and valves from operating. However removing the relay with throw the car into limp mode, effectively limiting boost to 5 lbs. I reinstalled the relay while leaving the fuses out and I have yet to throw a CEL. Of course once I cold start in the morning I most likely will, this time at least I will know the valves are closed!
Surprisingly enough, no cel at cold start! Car is running fine, no pump, no problem!
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:57 AM   #39
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Good deal. I contacted Cobb and they are changing my map to ignore the error. I will let you know if this solves my issue.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:10 PM   #40
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Surprisingly enough, no cel at cold start! Car is running fine, no pump, no problem!
Good to hear. I would guess that your one valve was getting the stuck open and stuck closed cels together due to the valve getting super sticky and was/is on its way to total failure city.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #41
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Good deal. I contacted Cobb and they are changing my map to ignore the error. I will let you know if this solves my issue.
It will work man. They will just disable all the related pump and valve cels. No worries.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:53 PM   #42
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Good to hear. I would guess that your one valve was getting the stuck open and stuck closed cels together due to the valve getting super sticky and was/is on its way to total failure city.
That was my guess as well. I pulled the pump and capped off the end of the hose running to the valves. Before I did though I started the car and checked to see if anything was coming out of the hose again for good measure. I didn't feel any gasses pumping out, I would assume it would be obvious if the valve was leaking since hot exhaust fumes would be coming through. Hoping this is good and I will just keep clearing the CEL until I make it over to EFI.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:11 AM   #43
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I thought I would post this in here rather than start a new thread.


Yesterday I installed a turboxs short ram, sounded good, obviously didn't expect an increase in power. I also pulled out the pump for the air injection system. I capped the hose and called it a day. Today I noticed I can't boost passed 11/12 psi. I was hitting 14.5 before so this scared me a bit. I checked and replaced my vac lines to the boost gauge, and I swapped the stock airbox back in and tossed the turbo xs intake. I disconnected the battery, let the car idle and took it out for a drive just now and I still can't boost passed 11/12, there's even a bit of hesitation. Any ideas? I'm not sure what else could have caused it those are the only two things I've done since yesterday. Any help is appreciated!
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:33 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Bleichroeder View Post
I thought I would post this in here rather than start a new thread.

Yesterday I installed a turboxs short ram, sounded good, obviously didn't expect an increase in power. I also pulled out the pump for the air injection system. I capped the hose and called it a day. Today I noticed I can't boost passed 11/12 psi. I was hitting 14.5 before so this scared me a bit. I checked and replaced my vac lines to the boost gauge, and I swapped the stock airbox back in and tossed the turbo xs intake. I disconnected the battery, let the car idle and took it out for a drive just now and I still can't boost passed 11/12, there's even a bit of hesitation. Any ideas? I'm not sure what else could have caused it those are the only two things I've done since yesterday. Any help is appreciated!
1. What year is your car? Some years have a sensor that you need to retain that's part of one of those valves.
2. You tuned for the intake, have a wideband, and have been logging to try and figure it out right?
3. There is an enormous thread about how to properly remove these/hack apart the valve to retain just the sensor if you have one.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
You'll have to keep one valve (the big, purple plug, drivers side valve I believe)as you have an 07 and the barometric pressure sensor is in there.
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Originally Posted by dstroy View Post
1. What year is your car? Some years have a sensor that you need to retain that's part of one of those valves.
2. You tuned for the intake, have a wideband, and have been logging to try and figure it out right?
3. There is an enormous thread about how to properly remove these/hack apart the valve to retain just the sensor if you have one.
On one of the valves, there is one pressure sensor that is a barometric sensor and works with the EBCS to control boost depending on barometric conditions/altitude. If the sensor is absent, it has no idea what adjustments are needed and defaults to a value. If you got it tuned, the tuner could electronically control boost, and this would not be an issue. But since you have no tune, you can't boost past 12 psi.

Depending on the intake, with no MAF scaling, this is most likely what's causing your hesitation. AGAIN, these cars need tunes for stupid little things, even such as an intake. The stock airbox is good to 400whp with no limitation, not quite sure why you switched it out other then being able to hear your bypass valve.

The boost issue and hesitation issue are most likely not related.

Last edited by sexyyrex; 09-18-2013 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #46
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On one of the valves, there is one pressure sensor that is a barometric sensor and works with the EBCS to control boost depending on barometric conditions. If the sensor is absent, it has no idea what adjustments are needed and defaults to a value. If you got it tuned, the tuner could electronically control boost, and this would no be an issue. But since you have no tune, you can't boost past 12 psi.

Depending on the intake, with no MAF scaling, this is most likely what's causing your hesitation. AGAIN, these cars need tunes for stupid little things, even such as an intake.

The boost issue and hesitation issue are most likely not related.

I was hitting 14.5 easy before. I also installed the factory air box last night and still only hitting 11/12 lbs. I guess it is most likely the sensor. Unfortunately if I give power to the valve/sensor it will get stuck open again. I guess I'll have to wait to be tuned to be able to run full boost again
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:27 PM   #47
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I'm having Subaru take a look at it tomorrow. The difference 2psi makes is incredible. I would prefer to have a working system rather than delete it.
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Old 09-18-2013, 04:56 PM   #48
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I was hitting 14.5 easy before. I also installed the factory air box last night and still only hitting 11/12 lbs. I guess it is most likely the sensor. Unfortunately if I give power to the valve/sensor it will get stuck open again. I guess I'll have to wait to be tuned to be able to run full boost again
Didn't someone say you can pull the fuses? Why not pull the fuses and plug the sensor in?
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:47 PM   #49
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I did but wouldn't the sensor and the valve be sharing power? If I pull the fuse for the valve the sensor doesn't get power. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #50
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2007+ only need to keep a valve.
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