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Old 09-12-2013, 12:43 PM   #1
Hivoltj
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Default 2013 TMIC re-install, any tips?

Pulled the Top mount on my '13 WRX with about 4500 miles. Last time I had it on the highway I had a whistling/screetching sound on a lower RPM throttle roll on. Like any more than 2/3 throttle and it would do it as long as I stayed in it. Sounded like someone blowing a note through a recorder (remember the ****ty little plastic flute from music class?) I've suspected I had a boost leak for a while, car seemed to build boost a little late and not pull as hard as it used to.

Anyway, didn't really find a smoking gun when I pulled the TMIC, clamp at the throttle body was slightly loose, I got a couple turns on it with the screwdriver. Going to put the intercooler back on and I can not get them damn discharge hose on all the way and tightened. Keeps pulling off about 1/4" before I get the clamp tight. Any tips? I'm trying to push the intercooler towards the TB as much as I can while tightening, but it's pissing me off.

Car is 100% stock as I bought it, does have SPT catback that was installed at the factory.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:56 PM   #2
1wrxtra
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Did you take off the little sleeves/caps at each end the IC/TB hose? If not, do that.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:31 PM   #3
tazswing
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My trick is to place the clamp on the turbo outlet first (loose) until the hose slides onto the turbo a bit and then slide it on out of the way (onto the hose). This way I don't worry about it fall when I am positioning the TMIC. I clamp the throttle-body hose to the throttle body making the mating process: hose to turbo outlet on the turbo side and TMIC to hose on the throttle body side.

A little brake cleaner or even spit for some lube.

As for the hose clamp for the turbo outlet hose, it is just a pain to get it lined up correct. If you have a small enough socket with a longer extension you can try using that vs. a screw driver. Also, the orientation of the hose clamp might not seem like a big deal but it can make a difference in small spaces.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #4
nate_fisher
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It sounds like you are tryin to put it on backwards. You need to put it on the hose first and tighten it all the way down them push it over to the turbo and bolt that on last.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:28 PM   #5
Hivoltj
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No, That's how I'm doing it.

I/C hose clamped to throttle body, then install IC into the other end. Don't even have the bolts for the turbo flange or the mounting bracket started yet.

I did try a little spit on there, LOL. I'll give it another go tonight when I'm less tired and pissed off.

I don't have a problem getting the coupler and clamp on there. I just can't get it that last 1/4 inch or so and tightened without it backing out.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:30 PM   #6
atlfire
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Check your inlet pipe for cracks? I know the older models had weak spots and caused a similar noise.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:25 PM   #7
Hivoltj
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Didn't have enough time last night to mess with it.

Sanded and painted my Stock wheels metallic silver. Always hated the look of gunmetal wheels, especially on a dark car.

Dropped them to get mounted up this morning with my new Toyos

Also quick Q: Car makes a funky whistling/whirring noise for 15 seconds after a cold start, I'd assume the computer is running some kind of test? What is that? Some wastegate test? Or the air pump?
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:45 PM   #8
Wireeater
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Spray the inside of the hose with hairspray to help slide it on/seal it. Make sure you remove the rubber boots from the hose to. I'd also replace the crappy worm clamps so you won't have to do this again. Mine has never came back off since I pulled the boots and used tclamps. I am running 17# at peak.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:02 PM   #9
nate_fisher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hivoltj View Post
Didn't have enough time last night to mess with it.

Sanded and painted my Stock wheels metallic silver. Always hated the look of gunmetal wheels, especially on a dark car.

Dropped them to get mounted up this morning with my new Toyos

Also quick Q: Car makes a funky whistling/whirring noise for 15 seconds after a cold start, I'd assume the computer is running some kind of test? What is that? Some wastegate test? Or the air pump?
It is your secondary air pump and totally normal yet very annoying.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:26 AM   #10
Asti113
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Recently removed my TMIC on my '13 and it just took some patience and spare set of hands.
We had the turbo hose and the throttle body hose connected to the IC. Positioned the IC, then slid the turbo hose on. It buckles up so use a finger or tool (preferably smooth) to get the whole turbo hose on. It'll only go on about 90% of the way at this point. That's the biggest pain. Skid on the TB hose and the turbo hose should be finally slide all the way on.

If the turbo hose is giving you trouble it probably buckled up underneath. Be careful not to rip the hosing.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:12 AM   #11
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asti113 View Post
Recently removed my TMIC on my '13 and it just took some patience and spare set of hands.
We had the turbo hose and the throttle body hose connected to the IC. Positioned the IC, then slid the turbo hose on. It buckles up so use a finger or tool (preferably smooth) to get the whole turbo hose on. It'll only go on about 90% of the way at this point. That's the biggest pain. Skid on the TB hose and the turbo hose should be finally slide all the way on.

If the turbo hose is giving you trouble it probably buckled up underneath. Be careful not to rip the hosing.
He has a WRX. The intercooler, intake manifold/TB, and turbo compressor housing is all different and fits up different compared to your STI.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:31 AM   #12
SlimJim8804
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It's a pain to orient correctly. There's a picture on here somewhere where someone photo'd the orientation spots.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:35 AM   #13
1wrxtra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate_fisher View Post
It is your secondary air pump and totally normal yet very annoying.
This, it's for emissions. Totally pointless imo.
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:22 PM   #14
CJ3W
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Your car is a 2013 with 4500 miles. It's under warranty. Why are you working on it? Bring it to the dealership and have them fix it. You bought an expensive car, let them work on it. It's free service and you won't need to be pissed off at yourself because you can't put an intercooler back on without serious issues.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:10 PM   #15
nate_fisher
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There is a pink dot on the tb hose that needs to be facing up and toward the tmic and that should help a lot.
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Old 04-24-2014, 03:50 PM   #16
Hivoltj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ3W View Post
Your car is a 2013 with 4500 miles. It's under warranty. Why are you working on it? Bring it to the dealership and have them fix it. You bought an expensive car, let them work on it. It's free service and you won't need to be pissed off at yourself because you can't put an intercooler back on without serious issues.

This is real funny. Here I am 7 months later and the problem persists. I usually don't go on the highway much so it's not a big deal. Well I did last weekend and finally decided I'm sick of it. Called up subaru to get it in (9400 miles currently) They burned up 1/4 tank of my gas test driving it and couldn't duplicate they say. So the kid comes and picks me up so I can put gas in it, and take him for a 20 minute drive showing him about 20 times. He dropped me back at my house and said it had flagged a code on the test drive.

Get a message just a bit ago from the Service Manager. Tech can't find anything wrong but he's gonna test drive it one more time just to burn some more of my ****ing gas apparently.

Christ. I knew this is what would happen that's why I didn't take it in. Guess I'll just fix it my god damn self tonight...
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