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Old 10-02-2013, 03:26 PM   #1
Chuckls
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Member#: 280696
Join Date: Apr 2011
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Kentuckiana
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
OBP

Default Check my map - peace of mind

Just wondering if you can gander at my map and tell me if it's ok / bad? I just need the peace of mind


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...mc&output=html
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:50 PM   #2
Cobb Tuning
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Location: Austin, DFW, Portland, SOCAL
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What map are you currently running (ex: Stage2 93 v310)? What engine modifications do you have on your car?

The log looks good, but you are under boosting. Once we have the information above, we can make some recommendations for you.

Chris
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:45 PM   #3
Chuckls
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OBP

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I apologize!

Cobb Stage 2 HWG with a Helix Downpipe / STi Uppipe / HKS Carbon TI 3in exhaust.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:25 PM   #4
Chuckls
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OBP

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Beuler?
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:19 AM   #5
snoopy8818
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2013 WRX STI Limited
2007 WRX STI Limited

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IDC's are in the 90's
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:37 PM   #6
Cobb Tuning
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Before you start to raise boost levels, it's always a good idea to get a pressure/smoke test performed to make sure that everything is sealed up properly. If a small leak was present, raising boost levels will just push the turbo harder without any benefit.

Once you are confident everything is good, you can attack this problem one of two ways (or a combo of both):

1) You can pre-load the wastegate arm. The 2004 - 2005 WRX has a weak wastegate spring from the factory. Some cars have to crank down the wastegate arm to the get the car to hit Stage2 boost targets. The actuator rod is threaded on the end that attaches to the exhaust side of the turbocharger. Loosen the 10mm lock nut that is on the actuator rod. Next, remove the little C-clip that holds the actuator rod to the cam attached to to the wastegate door. Be careful when removing this. They can go flying when they come off and will be difficult to find if it drops. You should now be able to remove the actuator rod from the exhaust side of the turbo. Now you want to screw the tip of the actuator rod to effectively shorten the rod. Start with one full turn. Then reassemble everything. It might be easier to leave the heat shield off for now until we get everything dialed in. Go drive your car and see if your boost is closer to target. If not, wait until the car cools off and do one for full turn for a total of two full turns. Reassemble and go test again.



2) You can continue to raise your wastegate duty cycles using Accesstuner Race. Bill has nice, simple instructions on how do this which I will include below.

- Open the exact map you have reflashed to the car.

- If you need to decrease boost, select the entire Wastegate Duty Cycle (High) table (hold down left button on mouse and drag to select all cells), hit the M (multiply) key and enter 0.95 (to decrease table by 5% relative). If you need to increase boost, select the entire Wastegate Duty Cycle (High) table, hit the M (multiply) key and enter 1.05 (to increase table by 5% relative).

- Copy the new Wastegate Duty Cycle (High) values into your Wastegate Duty Cycle (Low) map by selecting the entire High table, hitting Ctrl C, then selecting the single upper left cell in the Low table, and hitting Ctrl V. Verify that the Low table is now the same as the High table and then, select the entire Low table, hit M (multiply) and enter .95 (to reduce values by 5% relative). This will give you a 5% relative spread between the Low and High tables.

- Save map and reflash to the car (alternatively this could be tuned real-time and then later reflashed when you finally reach the correct boost levels)

- Get a wide open throttle (WOT) data log (if can be done safely) and see how boost looks. For Subarus with 6-speed transmissions (STi, 10-12 LGT), this should be a 4th gear only run (or 3rd if 4th is too fast for conditions) from around 2500 RPM on up. For other Subarus, this should be a 3rd gear only run, also from around 2500 RPM on up.

- Continue process above until you hit the target. The TD Boost Error monitor will allow you to see where boost is relative to the final boost target. Your final boost target may be different than what we state for the map due to your local barometric pressure (if at altitude) or more "extreme" intake temperatures. TD Boost Error is calculated as (target boost - actual boost), so positive values mean you are underboosting by that amount, while negative values mean you are overboosting by that amount. It is preferred to have a slight underboost in the WOT runs described above. That is, TD Boost Error is between 0 and 1 psi. You want to make sure you do not exceed the target by more than 1 psi at WOT in any condition in any gear.

Chris
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