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Old 10-06-2005, 12:58 PM   #1
kfoote
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Default NESIC Track Hot Laps

I'm a bit bored today, so I'm compiling all the hot laps I have written in one thread, and will be adding NHIS to the list as well, and will add to it as new tracks and descriptions are written.

Some of these may be a bit repetitive, as some cutting and pasting was used for some of the different track configurations where applicable in order to make the individual configurations easier to cup and paste.

Feel free to use any of these or post them anywhere, as long as I am credied for them.
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Last edited by kfoote; 10-06-2005 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:59 PM   #2
kfoote
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Default Mosport

Mosport is very slick in the wet. If the track looks damp, think of it as driving in a torrential downpour at most other tracks. There is very little grip here in the wet. Some of the info may have changed as the track has been repaved since I last drove, but from having been to the track several times between then and now, most of the info should still be valid.

There is now concrete that pretty well defines where you want the outside tires of the car in 1, the 2nd apex of 2, 3, 5a, 5b, 9, the 2nd apex of 8, and 10

From Start-Finish (expected gear in parentheses, WRX 4th, STi 5th) you will want to be all the way on the left side of the track entering turn 1. You do not have to brake all that much, as turn 1 is quite fast. A downshift to 4th will probably be required in the STi. Turn in is a bit vague as there is no real good turn in point, but is about 3 car lengths after the track starts to go downhill more steeply. The curbing at the apex is a bit deceiving. The apex is about 15 ft after the end of the apex curbing, about half way between the end of the curbing and a drainage grate on the inside of the track. With the banking changes in the corner, the hardest point of cornering will be about 1/3 of the way into the corner, and you want to try to carry good speed out of 1 as there is a fairly long uphill run to 2. You should be able to get full throttle 15-20 ft before the apex. Using the exit curb is OK in the dry, but better left as a safety margin.

STiís will probably have to go into 5th between 1 and 2.

Turn 2 (4th WRX, 5th STi): You want to be about a car width off the right edge of the track on entry. The track flattens out the further right you go, and you need all the help you can get here for the initial turn in. Turn in gently just before cresting the hill. At the first apex, there was a bit of old pavement on the inside that may or may not still be there thatís a good first apex marker, about 30 ft after the crest of the hill. From there, you want to let the car drift out about 2/3 of the way across the track. If you get it right, you will have to add more steering input here to cut for the 2nd apex at the point in the track where the road is banked more and the hill starts to flatten out, both of which increase the available grip. You should be full throttle before having to make the cut for the second apex. The second apex again was at a point where there was some old pavement on the inside that you may or may not be able to see. The track flattens out after the apex, but the radius of the corner increases. Again, you can use the exit curb here if you have to, but it is better left as a safety margin.

For turn 3 you need to get back to the left side of the track fairly quickly, as youíre not on the straight from 2 to 3 for very long. You want to be all the way left before braking to maximize the braking capabilities of the car here. You will need to get on the brakes fairly hard here and downshift (3rd WRX, 4th STi). Turn in here is a bit later than it initially looks, and the apex is at the end of the curb. You should be full throttle just before the apex. The car will want to understeer when you get about 1 car width off the right side of the track due to a small rise in the road and the track flattening out a bit. You may find yourself at the exit curbing fairly early with significant lateral g loads still on the car. The exit curb can be used liberally here. WRXís will probably have to shift to 4th just before the car is pointed straight for the run from 3 to 4.

Turn 4 (4th WRX, 5th STi). Aim for the big "C" on the Continental bridge (the one that's over the track, not over grass)Turn in slowly, turn in is the tough part here. A light tap on the brakes is all you need (flat out in my Miata).

Turn 5a (3rd WRX, 4th STi) this is a very hard braking zone, though it is fairly short and you have the compression of the hill and gravity working for you. You will also have to downshift here. You must be all the way left on entry, and you will have to turn in before you can see the apex. You will want to get as much turning done before the apex of 5a as you can so that you donít lost the extra grip that the hill provides and you can get back into the throttle for a short burst from 5a to 5b. Ideally, you want to have your cornering done and be pointed straight from the apex of 5a to the left edge of the track at the turn in point for 5b.

Turn 5b (3rd WRX and STi). If you have an STi, you will probably need to downshift in the braking zone to be able to carry as much speed as you can from 5a to 5b. This is added incentive to have the car pointed straight by the apex of 5a. You want to turn in late, and apex later than it initially looks as again the road drops away about 10 ft after the apex, and you want to carry as much exit speed as you can for the run up (note: UP!) the back straight. You can use the exit curbs here a bit, though using them too much usually results in scrubbing off a bit of speed for 5c (not really a corner if done right), which is bad.

Mario Andretti Straight, and turns 6 and 7: You will probably need top gear by the end of the straight. If you think the straight here is long, try it in a Miata that will only rev to 5000 RPMís. Munch on Mr. Big, and have some coffee

Turns 8-9 (4th WRX, 5th STi): When you see the final crest, get all the way to the right before getting to the crest. After cresting the hill, there is a pavement change about 100 ft after it. This makes a good braking reference point, though the STiís will probably have to brake before it. IMHO, the 2 apex method is faster in most cars. Turn in is fairly early, and the idea of this line is to carry as much speed from the back straight for as long as possible. Use the corner to scrub off some speed, and you will want to go about 1.5 car widths from the inside of the track between apexes. The second apex is very late. If done right, you need to be pointed straight parallel to the right edge of the track for the turn in of 9 before you get to the second apex of 8, and will need to be braking just before you get to the 2nd apex. You will have to downshift for 9 (3rd WRX and STi). The turn in and apex are later than they look, as you canít use all the track out coming out of 9 or you wonít be able to get all the way back left for 10.

Turn 10 (3rd WRX, 4th STi). This is probably the most straightforward corner on the track. Be all the way left for turn in, apex is a little later than it looks, but not much, and you can use the curb on the exit (note: CURB, not grass). You do lose a little bit of banking about 2/3 of the way from apex to track out, but itís not nearly as much as on some other parts of the track. You want to be full throttle at the apex, as it is important to carry as much speed as you can down the front straight.
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:04 PM   #3
kfoote
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Default Lime Rock

Update for new paving

Gears in parentheses will be of the format (WRX gear/STi Gear)

At Start-Finish (4th/5th), you want to be all the way to the left side of the track. Braking is fairly hard, but you can enter Big Bend (3rd/4th) a lot faster than it loos like you can, and you should be scrubbing off speed through the corner. Turn in should be very gentle about 1 car length before the bridge (just after the 2 marker when I drove), and aim for the first apex. In these cars, you'll probably want to drift out until the left side tires are about a car width off the outside of the track, scrubbing off speed all the way through the first part of the corner. Turn into the second apex just where teh track starts to tighten up. This should allow you to get back fully into the power just before the apex and point you down the straight. You can use the curbing on the exit if you have to, but it's not reccommended.

Safety notes on Big Bend: There is an escape road straight if you overcook it going in. You're a lot better off going there than on the grass. Also, on exit, if you drop a wheel off on the outside, let off the gas and bring the car on the track VERY gradually. Otherwise you'll end up in the tire wall on the right side of the track. Also, you will see many lines here, the double apex line is MUCH faster, and how well your particular car pivots is the primary determination of how far to let the car drift out between apexes. On exit, if the back of the car starts to come around a bit, you are much better off locking up the wheels and spinning off into the grass on the outside of the track. Many a car has tried to save it when they shouldn't have, and hook-spun into the tire wall on the inside of the track.

Bring the car to the right side of the track for the left-hander (3rd, 3rd or 4th). There will be slight braking going in, but again you want to scrub off speed going through the corner. You want to leave a few feet on the outside of the track at turn-in here. At the very outside of the track, there is no camber to help you, where the car will turn in better if you're a few feet off the edge. The apex here is very, very, late, just about at the end of the curbing on the left side. The idea is to get on the power and get yourself set up for the right hander.

For the right hander, you should already be at the left edge of the track if you've gone through the left hander properly. The apex here is a little early, but the key is to get on the power early to carry the speed down no-name straight. You can use the curbing on exit if you have to.

No-name straight is a passing zone, but it's not easy to pass here. Make sure you get a point by.

For the uphill (4th/4th), the road makes a little jog to the left right about at the point where you'll want to start braking. Turn in is about 3 car lengths after that little kink. The apex here is early, but you only want to track out to about 2/3 track going up the hill. There's a lot of compression once you go up the hill, and the car will turn better once you get there. Regardless of where you are on the track, make sure the steering wheel is pointed straight when you get to the top of the hill. When the car compresses after the crest of the hill, your front tires suddenly have all sorts of grip and the car will go in the direction they're pointed. If this isn't straight, it's bad.

West Bend (4th/4th) Do not early apex West Bend. Do not early apex West Bend. Do not early apex West Bend. There will be light braking going in here, but not much more than a stab at the brakes. Turn in is somewhat difficult to pick up here. If you have really good eyes, you can pick up the blue dot on the left edge of the track that's the marker for the Skippy School cone. It is correct, and is a good turn-in point. There is a crossing road here, and the paex is right at the point where the farthest up track portion of that road meets the apex curbing. Again, you can use track out if you have to here, but this is the one place where it's not a good idea to make a habit of it.

Safety notes on West Bend: The track goes off camber on exit, so you have to get most of your turning done by the apex. If you feel like the car might understeer off at the exit of the corner, straighten out the wheel, hit the brakes, and get the car slowed down so that you stay on the pavement. Withthe new section of track that was added, tere's all sorts of room to go off track without incident early in the corner, but to go out there, you have to make the decision about half way from turn in to the apex to still be safe. I have seen more cars that have gotten upside down at West Bend than at all other corners combined, and almost all of them have been a result of someone trying to stay in the gas while they knew the car was going to understeer off track, and they thought they could save it. Off track is VERY steeply downhill to the tire wall at track out, and once you have all 4 wheels off and haven't lifted, you're in very deep trouble.

For the downhill (4th/4th), you'll have either a light touch of the brakes, mostly to plant the nose of the car on turn-in. There's a dip at the somewhat late apex that to be fast, you have to go through. At about 2/3 of the way to track out, the road flattens out, and the car will start to understeer. You can use the curb on track out, but again, you don't want to make a habit of it.

Safety Notes on the Downhill: Do not early apex, and if you go off track on the outside, ease off the gas and gradually come back onto the track. It's the same deal as exiting Big Bend, where if you try to come back on track too quickly, you'll hook spin to the inside and hit the tire wall there.

LRP is very temperature sensitive, and if the track is cold, then there won't be much grip. The track can slow down as much as 2 sec/lap from a 70 deg day to a 40 deg day, so keep that in mind if you've only driven here in good conditions before.

Last edited by kfoote; 10-17-2012 at 05:50 PM. Reason: update for new paving
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:08 PM   #4
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:11 PM   #5
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Can I put these on my web site? I'll credit you

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Old 10-06-2005, 01:37 PM   #6
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awesome post Kevin. Very nice
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:07 PM   #7
kfoote
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Default NHIS- South Oval

Gears in parentheses will be of the format (WRX gear/STi Gear)

At Start-Finish, you should be all the way at the right side of the track. Braking for the oval is minimal with no gear change (4th/5th), and the fast way through is the NASCAR line, basically trail braking through the first 30 degrees of arc in the corner. The right edge where the pavement change starts should be in the middle of the car, and is a good reference point. By the time you get to the "Sylvania" marking on the outside wall, you should be at least partially back on the gas. You want to stay in the second groove, though if your car does not rotate well, you can dip the left tires on to the shallower banking at about the apex, right about where the south chicaine rejoins the track. You can use all of the track out, getting within about 1 foot of the wall on track out to leave as a safety margin and to stay out of the marbles that can develop there.

If you went through the oval correctly, you never straighten the wheel until you are lined up for braking for turn 3 on the left side of the track. In these cars, you will probably have to brake before the transition off the oval, though you want to make sure the car is in a straight line before you brake and downshift (2nd?/3rd). There should be plenty of room to do this. Turn in and apex are based on where the cones are set up. Generally, you want to turn in as early as possible, and at the apex, the left side tires should be just outside the rumble strips, with the right side tires well inside them. If you're not too concerned about the bodywork on your car, feel free to relocate the cones for the benefit of others. You want to be feeding power in by the time you get to the apex, though depending on your car, you may not be able to get full pwer until after the transition bumps going across the oval. Going up the hill from tun 3 to 4, you should be full throttle. For 4, you should be 4-6 feet off the apex, as the way the corner is cambered with the hill, this will scrub less speed going up the hill. Use all the track out, the less tire scrub you have, the faster you will be. Many cars will have to shift before track out of 4, and before the car is pointed straight. You will have to be aware of this, and may have to slow down the speed of the shift to minimze how the shift upsets the balance of the car.

Going up over 5, you should be back to the right side of the track about at the crest of the hill. You will want to be right at the rumble strips at the top of the hill, though not on them. Going down the hill, the road wanders to the right. Keep going straight. I like to line up the left side tires on the seam in the pavement, and use this as a good directional pointer. In these cars, you will need to brake before it, but where the seam goes left, keep going straight. This will get you to the outside of the track for 6 at the right time. You do not want to use the pavement outside the white line on corner entry. The loss of camber significantly upsets the car, and this should be used as a safety margin only.

Brake and downshift to 3rd, and you will want to trail brake a bit for 6. Getting the car turned in and aimed for the apex in the first 45 degrees of arc is the slowest part of the corner. Turn in is very late. If you have followed the line up to this point, you wlll need to continue along the outside edge of the track for about 3 feet after you get to the edge before where the real turn in point is, and you should be braking until that "real" turn in point. Most cars should be full throttle well before the very late apex. At track out, the transition to the extra paving outside the white line is less upsetting to the car than the pavement at the entry to 6, but in general, it is still better to use that extra pavement as a safety margin. If you need to use it, chanes are that you have either slightly early apexed or turned in a bit too early. In a WRX, done right, you should be slightly relieving pressure on the steering wheel and relaxing the steering until you're lined up to go straight through 7. In an STi, you will have to point the car straight for a bit to shift into 4th before you get to 7, and though it's not as smooth, shifting the car while it's straighter is a bit quicker.

The big question for 7-8: How far left do you go? The answer, only as far as you absolutely need to to not scrub speed off and get lined up to go straight over the hill and have enough room to brake for 9. No car with under about 400 HP should have to get their left side tires closer than 10 feet to the left edge of the track. In the Miata, I never get more than about 4 feet off the right edge. Get the car pointed straight, and unless you have a lot of power, you should be able to wait until the suspension compresses after cresting the hill to brake (and downshift in an STi) for 9 (3rd/3rd). You should be braking in a straight line between the top of the hill in 8 and the curb edge in 9. There is new curbing for 2011 at turn 9, but with the camber of the track, it's best to stay just off it unless you're in a very high powered car and you need the longer straight shot to slow the car down under braking. You want to brake straight past the curb until the left of the car gets to where the pavement seam is. That's the turn in point. From there the car should still be moving slghtly out in the lane, but adding more steering input to get the car pointed straight along the left edge of the track and settled going into 10.

A light lift/tap of the brakes is all you need for 10. Most of the turning is done well after the apex burm (DO NOT HIT THE BURM!!!), but you should be back to full throttle before the burm. There is A LOT of room at track out, and you should be using it all. There's even a 1 foot wide patch of pavement on the outside that you can use if you have to, but it's best left as a safety margin. There is now a hole in the extra paving near the end of it, and you do not want to go through that hole if you can avoid it. STi's will have to shift into 4th not too long after track out.

Similar to going over the hill, the question here is how far right do you go?, and again the answer is only as far as you have to to get the car lined up for braking straight into 11 whiel keeping the throttle planted until you get there. As soon as you can see the car will fit through a straight path between the curb on the left and the curb on the right, you should be braking. If you feel you're overslowing the car for 11, you don't need to go as far right between 10 and 11. STi's will have to downshift to 3rd here. Turn in for 11 is about 6' after the curb on the right if you're lined up correctly. The apex here is again fairly late, and you don't want to hit the apex curb very hard. If you have a stiff suspension, you probably want to stay off it completely. The track out curb should be used to open up the exit of the corner, but you DO NOT want to drop tires off the outside edge, as there is a HUGE dropoff there.

Notes on rain: Any patches of new pavement (lower 3 grooves of the oval, 3, and especially 11) are very slick. For the oval, a damp line on the new stuff is so much shorter than the old pavement, that it's still usually faster than the totally outside line. In 3, cone permitting, you should be able to keep all 4 tires inside the patch. In 11, the patch is particularly slick, and will usually require going into 2nd gear. Also in 11, the old pavement has a lot more grip, and is usually faster to square off the corner more than normal.

Last edited by kfoote; 10-30-2014 at 10:30 AM. Reason: New paving on the outside of turn 6, turn 10 exit off-track pavement deteriorating
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:13 PM   #8
kfoote
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As long as I'm credited, feel free to post this anywhere you want. I'll also be updating this as things change, or as I remember more stuff about the tracks.
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:44 PM   #9
kfoote
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Default NHIS- Chicaine/Chicaine

Gears in parentheses will be of the format (WRX gear/STi Gear)

At Start-Finish, you should be all the way at the right side of the track. There are 3 distinct lines going into the South Chicaine that people use, however in the WRX and STi, the lowest of the 3 should be the fastest. While still full throttle at the 4 marker, turn so that you are aimed about 3 feet right of the end of the pit wall. Using this line, you can wait until about half way between the 2 and 3 markers in a stock STi before braking. Brake and downshift into 3rd for both the WRX and STi. The object of turn 1 (3rd/4th) is to be lined up along the left edge of the track where the cones start. The right edge of the road makes a distint bend anout 3/4 of the way through the corner, and you should be at the edge of the track at that point and stoll be lined up at the cones. A light tap of the brakes (and a downshift if you're in an STi) before turning in for 2A (3rd/3rd) will help transfer weight to the front, and will help with turn in. The apex for 2A is fairly late, but you can let the car drift out about 1/2 car width after the apex here again to get better lined up on the left edge of the track for 2B. Usually a light lift for 2B will gain help settle the car in transition before turn in. The apex for 2B is fairly early, and you shoudl be going fast enough that if the treack was flat, you wouldn't make it all the way through the corner. As soon as you hit the transition bump and go back onto the banking, there will be a lot more grip. Generally, you will end up about 1 car width outside of the NASCAR line and get to the outside of the track sooner, but you're going a lot slower than if you had been using the oval. STi's will have to shift into 4th before turn 3.

Using this configuration, you want to smoothly get set up along the right side of the track entering turn 3, minimizing front tire scrub doing so. At these speeds, using the transition mark from the oval to the road course is a good reference point for braking and downshifting (2nd/3rd). Turn in and apex are based on where the cones are set up. Generally, you want to turn in as early as possible, and at the apex, the left side tires should be just outside the rumble strips, with the right side tires well inside them. If you're not too concerned about the bodywork on your car, feel free to relocate the cones for the benefit of others. You want to be feeding power in by the time you get to the apex, though depending on your car, you may not be able to get full pwer until after the transition bumps going across the oval. Going up the hill from tun 3 to 4, you should be full throttle. For 4, you should be 4-6 feet off the apex, as the way the corner is cambered with the hill, this will scrub less speed going up the hill. Use all the track out, the less tire scrub you have, the faster you will be. Many cars will have to shift before track out of 4, and before the car is pointed straight. You will have to be aware of this, and may have to slow down the speed of the shift to minimze how the shift upsets the balance of the car.

Going up over 5, you should be back to the right side of the track about at the crest of the hill. You will want to be right at the rumble strips at the top of the hill, though not on them. Going down the hill, the road wanders to the right. Keep going straight. I like to line up the left side tires on the seam in the pavement, and use this as a good directional pointer. In these cars, you will need to brake before it, but where the seam goes left, keep going straight. This will get you to the outside of the track for 6 at the right time. You do not want to use the pavement outside the white line on corner entry. The loss of camber significantly upsets the car, and this should be used as a safety margin only.

Brake and downshift to 3rd, and you will want to trail brake a bit for 6. Getting the car turned in and aimed for the apex in the first 45 degrees of arc is the slowest part of the corner. Turn in is very late. If you have followed the line up to this point, you wlll need to continue along the outside edge of the track for about 3 feet after you get to the edge before where the real turn in point is, and you should be braking until that "real" turn in point. Most cars should be full throttle well before the very late apex. At track out, the transition to the extra paving outside the white line is less upsetting to the car than the pavement at the entry to 6, but in general, it is still better to use that extra pavement as a safety margin. If you need to use it, chanes are that you have either slightly early apexed or turned in a bit too early. In a WRX, done right, you should be slightly relieving pressure on the steering wheel and relaxing the steering until you're lined up to go straight through 7. In an STi, you will have to point the car straight for a bit to shift into 4th before you get to 7, and though it's not as smooth, shifting the car while it's straighter is a bit quicker.

The big question for 7-8: How far left do you go? The answer, only as far as you absolutely need to to not scrub speed off and get lined up to go straight over the hill and have enough room to brake for 9. No car with under about 400 HP should have to get their left side tires closer than 10 feet to the left edge of the track. In the Miata, I never get more than about 4 feet off the right edge. Get the car pointed straight, and unless you have a lot of power, you should be able to wait until the suspension compresses after cresting the hill to brake (and downshift in an STi) for 9 (3rd/4th). You should be braking in a straight line between the top of the hill in 8 and the curb edge in 9. You want to brake straight past the curb until the left of the car gets to where the pavement seam is. That's the turn in point. From there the car should still be moving slghtly out in the lane, but adding more steering input to get the car pointed straight along the left edge of the track and settled going into 10.

A light lift/tap of the brakes is all you need for 10. Most of the turning is done well after the apex burm (DO NOT HIT THE BURM!!!), but you should be back to full throttle before the burm. There is A LOT of room at track out, and you should be using it all. There's even a 1 foot wide patch of pavement on the outside that you can use if you have to, but it's best left as a safety margin. There is now a hole in the extra paving near the end of it, and you do not want to go through that hole if you can avoid it. STi's will have to shift into 4th not too long after track out.

Similar to going over the hill, the question here is how far right do you go?, and again the answer is only as far as you have to to get the car lined up for braking straight into 11 whiel keeping the throttle planted until you get there. As soon as you can see the car will fit through a straight path between the curb on the left and the curb on the right, you should be braking. If you feel you're overslowing the car for 11, you don't need to go as far right between 10 and 11. STi's will have to downshift to 3rd here. Turn in for 11 is about 2' after the curb on the right if you're lined up correctly. The apex here is again fairly late, and you don't want to hit the apex curb very hard. If you have a stiff suspension, you probably want to stay off it completely. The track out curb should be used to open up the exit of the corner, but you DO NOT want to drop tires off the outside edge, as there is a HUGE dropoff there.

Notes on rain: Any patches of new pavement (3, and especially 11) are very slick. In 3, cone permitting, you should be able to keep all 4 tires inside the patch. In 11, the patch is particularly slick, and will usually require going into 2nd gear. Also in 11, the old pavement has a lot more grip, and is usually faster to keep the right side tires on the old pavement.

Last edited by kfoote; 10-30-2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: New pavement on the outside of 6, deteriorating pavement on the extra part of exit of 10
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:44 PM   #10
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why Kfoote no Southoval in Miata gear?
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgethefierce
why Kfoote no Southoval in Miata gear?
For virtually all of these writeups, Miata gear = WRX gear can be used as a very good baseline. They may be a bit differnt for a stock 1.6L car, but for a stock 1.8L car or a Spec, they are virtually identical even though the speeds of the two cars can be quite different.
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:47 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Georgethefierce
why Kfoote no Southoval in Miata gear?
Does this look like NEMOF.com?

Raj
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:52 PM   #13
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Does this look like NEMOF.com?

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don't look like www.muhamedjihaddirkadirka.com either bitch!
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:56 PM   #14
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Default NHIS-North Oval

Gears in parentheses will be of the format (WRX gear/STi Gear)

At Start-Finish, you should be all the way at the right side of the track. There are 3 distinct lines going into the South Chicaine that people use, however in the WRX and STi, the lowest of the 3 should be the fastest. While still full throttle at the 4 marker, turn so that you are aimed about 3 feet right of the end of the pit wall. Using this line, you can wait until about the 3 marker in a stock STi before braking. Brake and downshift into 3rd for both the WRX and STi. The object of turn 1 is to be lined up along the left edge of the track where the cones start. The right edge of the road makes a distint bend anout 3/4 of the way through the corner, and you should be at the edge of the track at that point and stoll be lined up at the cones. A light tap of the brakes before turning in for 2A will help transfer weight to the front, and will help with turn in. The apex for 2A is fairly late, but you can let the car drift out about 1/2 car width after the apex here again to get better lined up on the left edge of the track for 2B. Usually a light lift for 2B will gain help settle the car in transition before turn in. The apex for 2B is fairly early, and you shoudl be going fast enough that if the treack was flat, you wouldn't make it all the way through the corner. As soon as you hit the transition bump and go back onto the banking, there will be a lot more grip. Generally, you will end up about 1 car width outside of the NASCAR line and get to the outside of the track sooner, but you're going a lot slower than if you had been using the oval. STi's will have to shift into 4th before turn 3.

Using this configuration, you want to smoothly get set up along the right side of the track entering turn 3, minimizing front tire scrub doing so. At these speeds, using the transition mark from the oval to the road course is a good reference point for braking and downshifting (2nd?/3rd). Turn in and apex are based on where the cones are set up. Generally, you want to turn in as early as possible, and at the apex, the left side tires shoudl be just outside the rumble strips, with the right side tires well inside them. If you're not too concerned about the bodywork on your car, feel free to relocate the cones for the benefit of others. You want to be feeding power in by the time you get to the apex, though depending on your car, you may not be able to get full pwer until after the transition bumps going across the oval. Going up the hill from tun 3 to 4, you should be full throttle. For 4, you should be 4-6 feet off the apex, as the way the corner is cambered with the hill, this will scrub less speed going up the hill. Use all the track out, the less tire scrub you have, the faster you will be. Many cars will have to shift before track out of 4, and before the car is pointed straight. You will have to be aware of this, and may have to slow down the speed of the shift to minimze how the shift upsets the balance of the car.

Going up over 5, you should be back to the right side of the track about at the crest of the hill. You will want to be right at the rumble strips at the top of the hill, though not on them. Going down the hill, the road wanders to the right. Keep going straight. I like to line up the left side tires on the seam in the pavement, and use this as a good directional pointer. In these cars, you will need to brake before it, but where the seam goes left, keep going straight. This will get you to the outside of the track for 6 at the right time. You do not want to use the pavement outside the white line on corner entry. The loss of camber significantly upsets the car, and this should be used as a safety margin only.

Brake and downshift to 3rd, and you will want to trail brake a bit for 6. Getting the car turned in and aimed for the apex in the first 45 degrees of arc is the slowest part of the corner. Turn in is very late. If you have followed the line up to this point, you wlll need to continue along the outside edge of the track for about 3 feet after you get to the edge before where the real turn in point is, and you should be braking until that "real" turn in point. Most cars should be full throttle well before the very late apex. At track out, the transition to the extra paving outside the white line is less upsetting to the car than the pavement at the entry to 6, but in general, it is still better to use that extra pavement as a safety margin. If you need to use it, chanes are that you have either slightly early apexed or turned in a bit too early. In a WRX, done right, you should be slightly relieving pressure on the steering wheel and relaxing the steering until you're lined up to go straight through 7. In an STi, you will have to point the car straight for a bit to shift into 4th before you get to 7, and though it's not as smooth, shifting the car while it's straighter is a bit quicker.

The big question for 7-8: How far left do you go? The answer, only as far as you absolutely need to to not scrub speed off and get lined up to go straight over the hill and have enough room to brake for 9. No car with under about 400 HP should have to get their left side tires closer than 10 feet to the left edge of the track. In the Miata, I never get more than about 4 feet off the right edge. Get the car pointed straight, and unless you have a lot of power, you should be able to wait until the suspension compresses after cresting the hill to brake (and downshift in an STi) for 9 (3rd/3rd). You shold be braking in a straight line between the top of the hill in 8 and the curb edge in 9. You want to brake straight past the curb until the left of the car gets to where the pavement seam is. That's the turn in point. From there the car should still be moving slghtly out in the lane, but adding more steering input to get the car pointed straight along the left edge of the track and settled going into 10. With this configuration, it's best to give up a little speed exiting 9 to make sure you're set up for the very tight entry to the North Oval.

As soon as you get the car pointed straight, you will have to brake, and downshift into 2nd in a WRX. This turn 10 is the slowest corner on the track. The turn in is a bit early, though quite a bit later than the North Chicaine. DO NOT HIT THE APEX BURM!!!! The transition to the oval upsets the car, and is off camber, so this corner is a lot slower than it looks. Use all the track to get a good run through the North Oval.

The North Oval is quite a bit different in the WRX and STi.

In a WRX, you should be able to stay on the left edge of the track from 10 until about 3/4 of the way through the oval. You will have to shift from 3rd to 4th about 1/3-1/2 wat through the oval, but as long as you shift slowly so as not to upset the balance of the car, you should be fine. Just after this is where you may want to have the car join the more normal NASCAR exit line. The object here is to minimize front tire scrub through the corner, as it should be flat out.

In an STi, from the exit of 10, you will want to go to about mid-track before entering the oval. You should short shift here into 4th just before turning in, where you should be in th emiddle groove, on the bottom of the steeper part of the banking. If the car starts to push up the banking before 3/4 track, you are better off backing out of the gas a bit to keep the car on the bottom of that . At about 3/4 of the way through the corner, where the apex would normally be, you will have to shift into 5th. You have to be very gentle shifting the car into 5th here. What I found that worked best was to slightly straighten the car a bit, and move one lane up the track to make this shift. This is a very uncomfortable place to shift, and if you're at all unsure about it, back off thegas a bit and wait until the car is out of the corner to shift into 5th.

Notes on rain: Any patches of new pavement (lower 3 grooves of the oval, 3, and especially 11) are very slick. For the oval, a damp line on the new stuff is so much shorter than the old pavement, that it's still usually faster than the totally outside line. In 3, cone permitting, you should be able to keep all 4 tires inside the patch. In 11, the patch is particularly slick, and will usually require going into 2nd gear. Also in 11, the old pavement has a lot more grip, and is usually faster to square off the corner more than normal.

Last edited by kfoote; 10-30-2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: New pavement at the outside of 6
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:33 PM   #15
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Excellent write up. I'd like to add some commentary, but very much like the line that you've chosen and strategy that your line takes. It follows the low power=shorten the track rule that I use.

South Chicane:
Please all note. If you're a newbie, your instructor will not teach you the low line. I agree with Kevin that it's the fastest and have been known to find an easy 6 car lengths there over others taking the high line. It's also somewhat the "Oh Crap" line...or some other language, since you will have the least room for error and if you're too hot going in, or if you thought you were running rain tires and finding out that they were just old, hard track tires, you need to bale early and autocross onto the oval to avoid herbicide.

Coming out of 3 and going up the hill, your car may decide how wide your line needs to be. No power and LSD....you'll have less trouble going inside and hitting that 2nd cone. FWD and open diff or too much power (Raj) with tires spinning all over and you'll need to drift out more or feather the throttle or both.

The line Kevin talks about going into 6 will also unlikely be taught to a newbie. I've been told that this is the so called SCCA line and I've used it when I want to be fast. (wait for some wise ass comment from RyanC). It also leaves little room for error and is much harder on brakes. But it makes best use of the banking, which is better in the bowl than anywhere else on the track.

Ah.....between 6 and 9. I stick to.....and encourage all my students to stick to the line on the right. You will somewhat "see God" as you go under the treehouse and make that last minute turn with a much less settled car going past the cone on your left. But the decrease in track distance is 12-15 feet. It's most dramatically seen in-car when the guy in front of you has no spheracal units resting on his seat and is waaaaay over to the left. Looks like someone taking an exit and deciding that it's the wrong exit and getting back on the road.

I use the same philosophy between 10 and 12. On the left side is a straight line then a berm on the left, a supposed chicane then berm on right and the left turn. Stay on that line on the left. There's another place where you'll see others all over on the right, spending another 20 feet of track. You want to "thread the needle" between the berms and trail brake and turn to induce some rotation, and then get back on the gas aiming INSIDE of the berm at the apex. The car will drift out and you'll get through without hitting the berm on the outside. There used to be a big hole in there, so it's much more friendly than it used to be. Note.....if you push it going into this corner and mess up (like my first session last time up there), you can hit the berm on the left and if you happen to have 500-700# springs will make your car more than upset and end up in some impossible direction watching Miatas scatter all around you. I hear Mustangs get some pretty impressive air there when they mess up. This chicane into 12 is one big left turn. If you're unwinding or turning right at all, you're doing an extra turn for no reason.

Back to the south oval. Don't force your way into the no brake....just lift, turn-in and feather back on the gas way to do it if you're not comfortable. The oval is pretty scary. The key there is to brake a bit less every time and LOOK AHEAD. You will be able to place your car with your eyes looking where you want to go. So you understand that staring at the wall at the exit of 2 is a bad thing, right?

A couple more tips. Do a bit of driving off-line to see what the track conditions are like. I've come through 9 a bit too far outside after a long SCCA weekend, where there are just tons of marbles out there. If you know they're there, you can avoid them. Look at and analyze the braking capabilities of every car in front of you coming into turns. If some dope 6 cars ahead has decided to wait till he sees Bruce Allen's brake lights, there's going to be some excitement ahead. Watch for it and be ready.

jack
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Old 10-06-2005, 05:05 PM   #16
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Default NHIS-low power/excellent handling line modifications

Jack brings up many excellent points about NHIS.

The line from the apex of 3 to track out in 4 can vary quite a bit depending on exactly what the car wants. The WRX/STi line and the Miata both like a wider exit out of 3, whereas my Porsche 944 had to go across the transition bumps perfectly straight or it would break the rear tires loose, requiring a lift before getting back on the power up the hill.

How he describes 6-9 and 10-12 is how I drive the Miata. If your car has little enough power/good enough handling, it's the best way, but a stock WRX or STi will not take either one.

As jack said, if you're in a low power/good handling car, you do not have to brake for the oval, but in a stock WRX or STi, you will be faster doing so. At the last NHIS event, I tried going through the oval flat out. It didn't work, but that I was able to try it in an SS car should say something.
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Old 10-06-2005, 06:02 PM   #17
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My notes on NHIS:
I've tried to keep my STI in 4th gear for turn 6, and 9 and 10, instead of downshifting to 3rd. I give up a little pull (I'll beat you wanks to the joke and just say I'm partially Irish so a little pull is all I am used to) getting to 7 but I can keep my foot planted and I don't lose time (or upset the car) downshifting. It makes trail braking through 9 a whole lot nicer feeling, as well. I tried to low line going into the chicane, and in the wet, it was slick! Car got skittish every time I did it, so I went higher. In the dry I've used a higher line but haven't picked one out as a favorite, yet.
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Old 10-06-2005, 06:48 PM   #18
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so which body kit should i buy?
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:11 PM   #19
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This is the best post ever!

Thanks Kevin for putting this together and thanks to Jack and Ryan for more insight.

I can't wait for NHIS in a few weeks.

- Jason
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:22 AM   #20
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Well seeing is that Im now running a 3.90 RA, my gearing is in between all you goons. Im curious as to how full Keith's hands are with the 4.44...

My gearing notes and open to suggestions.

Headed down the main straight I get into 5th at around the start finish as Im headed into the south oval and all the way to 3. I still havent found a line I really like around there yet. There's always been so much traffic going into and comming out of the oval that I rarely get consequtive clean passes at it. btw if you havent noticed.. the wrx is not a light car and mine is not well sprung... so the short track idea is a little questionable

Im definately in 3rd getting around turn 3, early apex is the way to go but I dont like putting all the wheels inside the rumble strips. Straddeling them seems to work the best. It helps get the car rotated and I defintely stay inside the new pavement at all costs. Once I hit that the car will push or Ive got to slow the car down more if Im headed over the new stuff even in the dry. With the wrx Ive found that you pretty much have to use all the room you got as you hit the transition up the hill. I get a LOT of tire spin here and going up the hill, so throttle control is a bit touchy. I get to about a few feet of hitting the curb on the left side hitting the transition. With this line Ive been able to get a really good run up the hill, and I hit 4th gear around the apex of 4 to track out of 4.

Following kevin's line into 6 I have to grab 3rd again. the wrx just doesnt have the torque to get out of 6 in 4th or I have to learn to carry a good amount more speed through 6. I'll give this more of an effort next time. I really dont like to grab 3rd here because it can easily unsettle the car. Even worse here because you are already braking so late and trail braking a lot (read, need to get the wagon butt around) To keep things safe I brake earlier than I want just so that I can get my shifting done before I get hard into the trail brake. With this line 3rd really pulls hard out of 6 and needing to get 4th around the apex of 7. I typically short shift it here so that I dont shift where the car gets light between 7 and 8. Shifting as I straighten around 7 is a good idea Kevin, Ill try that one.

I agree with Kevin in taking the shortest line around the hump as you can to manage getting the car straight and settled into 9. For me the key is to get as much turning done before I hit the little gap in the pavement under the treehouse. DO NOT drop a wheel here!!! I get back to 3rd here trailbrake and throttle steer to full gas into 10. I can manage staying in 3rd and hitting the rev limiter just as Im getting lined up for 11 so I guess its just about perfect gearing here. then its 3-4-5 around and down the straight. For the north oval I might just leave things in 4th but I dont know if thats gonna be too low to get me out of 10.

Note with the RA gears Im at floating at rev limit in 4th going into 1 (s.chicane), just about rev limit in 4th for 3, and floating at rev limit in 3rd for 11 (n. chicaine). Im not sure how good that is for the car but I dont have to shift... 6-9 I thnk I still have to figure out which way is faster, stay in 4th and try to carry more speed, or do the 4-3-4-3rd... shifty, shifty

Im gonna have to figure out a way to catch you STIs one of these days
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:25 AM   #21
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Joe, that's easy!

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Old 10-07-2005, 09:26 AM   #22
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I prefer to skip 6 entirely....and NHIS is really cool about it...they send a bunch of people out to congratulate you on your inventive line.....hell they even stop all the other cars so they can see it too
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanC
Joe, that's easy!


HA!
















yeah.......
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:32 AM   #24
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Joe - nothing that can't be corrected with a fresh new Platinum credit card with a big limit!

I only ran once at NHIS with the 4.44's - I shift more like the STi's now. If your rev limit is the stock setting, it's probably ok - mine was upped to 7500 - and - well, you know what happened.

-Keith-
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:43 AM   #25
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Hey Kevin,

Do you stay in third for 6 in the Miata? I've seen some people that go to 2nd.

- Jason
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