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Old 12-05-2013, 10:49 PM   #51
flyboy1100
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Originally Posted by G2Spfld View Post
Yes, looks like it'll work. That's switching ground via fog light switch to the relay, bypassing the BIU it looks like. That's like what I had in mind, I just wanted to verify the BIU data first.
you lose the indicator on the dash by bypassing the BIU i think, but oh well i could care less about that!!

would also be easy enough to test with just some jumper wires. i wish i had more time between now and monday to give it a whirl
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:57 PM   #52
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i never saw that post before, it might actually work and be much easier than everything else discussed! if I am understanding it correctly, my initial though was correct and the switch is only controlling the ground input, so we can just bypass the BIU completely and run that to the relay VY wire, and then tap into a 12v source for the power? then the fogs will work whenever the switch is turned on. so maybe it is much more similar to the older gen Impreza than originally thought?
Anything like what the guy did in the link I posted?
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:01 PM   #53
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Anything like what the guy did in the link I posted?
simplier, this wouldn't require any extra parts, only some cutting/splicing of 2-3 wires which can probably be located near the relay/biu behind the glove box.

for sure I am going to give it a try, just need time

would also like to power the fogs off a seperate relay closer to the battery to ensure max output, but that can come after ensuring the switching aspect works, and the under the hood stuff will be easier imho because I know how to to that from my older vehicle, but I really don't want to run wires through the firewall, hence making all this work first, then adding more relays for Fogs/Lows/Highs directly off the battery in the future

Last edited by flyboy1100; 12-05-2013 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:13 PM   #54
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simplier, this wouldn't require any extra parts, only some cutting/splicing of 2-3 wires which can probably be located near the relay/biu behind the glove box.

for sure I am going to give it a try, just need time
Sweet, fingers crossed!
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:26 PM   #55
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Sweet, fingers crossed!
My only concern is changing that one 12v source, will it provide enough current for the fogs since I believe they are on their own 15a fuse. Need to check that diagram a bit more tomorrow to figure out which fuse source is being replaced.

Also plan to try to just ground the relay and see if the lights will activate w/o changing that power source.

I'm excited
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:59 PM   #56
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My only concern is changing that one 12v source, will it provide enough current for the fogs since I believe they are on their own 15a fuse. Need to check that diagram a bit more tomorrow to figure out which fuse source is being replaced.

Also plan to try to just ground the relay and see if the lights will activate w/o changing that power source.

I'm excited
I'm sure there's a whole bunch of us gen 4 owners excited... B-)

I just don't understand the nanniness of the stock configuration, unless it's because of the under powered bulbs being unsafe for fog, lol.

Any law that says no fogs without lows is stupid, because the law already requires me to use headlights when I'm driving in poor lighting conditions. So.. why didn't they didn't force auto headlights on me?

A law that would make sense would be one similar to one for high beams/driving lights; no fogs without lows when you have oncoming traffic. Bam.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:04 AM   #57
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Ok if I understand how the relay works I finally have it 100% figured out.

MB-15 is feeding power to the relay from the headlight relay (30a), the side of the relay opposite that is from the biu and is only a ground. These 2 activate the relay so power actually sent to the lights.

FB-9 is feeding power from the 15a foglight fuse through the relay to the foglights.

Since MB-15 is only sending power to the relay when the biu activates that circuit that is why the fogs only work when the low beams are on. So like the picture in the post I link to shows, if we tap any other 12v source to the trigger side of the relay it will allow us to activate the lights regardless of the biu. Doesn't matter the source either because the relay requires almost zero current to activate so it won't be a draw on anything else.

I also don't see a reason other than perhaps larger wiring for adding an additional relay closer to the fogs.

So for sure if we cut the VY wire going to/from the biu and splice the input/output together that will give us the switch capability to turn the lights on and off.

I'm going to look into the older models mod a bit more because I think they were able to keep the indicator working (I dont care, but others might)


Yay!!!

Between this discussion and really studying the diagrams I don't know why I didn't see it before
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:46 AM   #58
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flyboy, this is the end result you're looking for, correct?

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Old 12-06-2013, 12:00 PM   #59
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flyboy, this is the end result you're looking for, correct?
Hey, neat trick! How'd ya do it? Please, enlighten us.
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:01 PM   #60
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Yes that sounds correct. I was thinking if we keep it connected to BIU, but terminated the cut wire after the BIU with tape we could keep dash light on too possibly.
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:03 PM   #61
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Hey, neat trick! How'd ya do it? Please, enlighten us.
ya!
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:13 PM   #62
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Sorry, but this trick isn't anything special, my passenger side lowbeam bulb burnt out on my way to work this morning, so I thought i'd take the picture as I started following this thread yesterday.

I just thought i'd post a visual reference of what we are hoping to achieve. Sorry for no useful info!

It just happened to be on a morning where the temps here are -42 celcius (-44F).
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:18 PM   #63
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Sorry, but this trick isn't anything special, my passenger side lowbeam bulb burnt out on my way to work this morning, so I thought i'd take the picture as I started following this thread yesterday.

I just thought i'd post a visual reference of what we are hoping to achieve. Sorry for no useful info!

It just happened to be on a morning where the temps here are -42 celcius (-44F).
i thought the -25C we had this morning was cold!

but yes that is pretty much the result and I will make it work on monday
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:28 PM   #64
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so what they did here is pretty much the same thing, but w/o the wiring diagram to verify, I won't be trying this. I would rather just tap the BG wire to another 12v source (preferrably the power wire to corner lights) and just splice the VY wires together, as they are both ground anyway, or should be (will verify with a meter before doing any cutting) then I can turn on my fog lights no matter what my light position is and when the key is turned off they will turn off too. Depending on what I find with the meter, if the BIU signal is active all the time to the relay, then it might just be as simple and rerouting power to the corner lights (only 1 wire change!!!!!)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2404593

i will do some "paint" today and draw up what I am planning.
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #65
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This is the main output for pretty much all other lights in the car, but from what I can find in the manual, this relay is located on the fusebox side. the relay for the fogs is behind the glove box. So I suppose you could tap this wire, then run the wire to the other side of the dash to provide power for the Fog relay. It would be nice to use this one, but i don't want to tear apart my entire dash again to run the wire.


A better option is to probably find a 12v source that is hot closer to the relay
I think I will actually just use the power to the foglights off the 15a fuse like this, I would actually cut the wire for the trigger side, because you don't want both those circuits tied together.


the BIU is behind the fuse box on the left side, so we might be able to find the wires easily
these are the 2 connectors that house the VY wires

Last edited by flyboy1100; 12-06-2013 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #66
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Why not keep 24 powered by its fuse, and connect the park to 25 on fog relay to activate that relay. That way you keep the fog on its orig fuse. You can bypass BIU like you have it. But..... If you connect the ground from park light switch that feeds BIU, and connect it to the ground lead from fog switch before the BIU, then the park switch will tell BIU to activate both fog and parks. That might be a good way, as it will keep the integrity of the rest of the circuit. Then use the ground from fog switch that you unhooked, to control the power feed to fogs. That way factory switch can still control fogs, and BIU is still happy. Just an idea to look at. Several ways to skin a cat, it'll just be finding the one that makes most sense for you
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:15 PM   #67
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Why not keep 24 powered by its fuse, and connect the park to 25 on fog relay to activate that relay. That way you keep the fog on its orig fuse. You can bypass BIU like you have it. But..... If you connect the ground from park light switch that feeds BIU, and connect it to the ground lead from fog switch before the BIU, then the park switch will tell BIU to activate both fog and parks. That might be a good way, as it will keep the integrity of the rest of the circuit. Then use the ground from fog switch that you unhooked, to control the power feed to fogs. That way factory switch can still control fogs, and BIU is still happy. Just an idea to look at. Several ways to skin a cat, it'll just be finding the one that makes most sense for you
opposite sides of the dash, i wrote that I don't want to run a wire from the left to the right and remove a lot of my dash again, done it more times than i would have liked already.

the way i have it depicted should work, the relay shouldn't draw more than 0.15a, and the lights themselves only draw about 10, so no chance of overloading the fuse.

the BIU/bypassing it is the only thing I am unsure of, and need more research/testing

i plan to get in there with a meter and see if that FOG fuse is hot all the time the ignition is on (it should be from what i saw on the diagram). and also to see if there is any kind of voltage on the VY wires (hoping there isn't) then i can either tie them together or leave it as is and the dash indicator might still work

really really looks simple to me to do it this way. no extra parts required, can't get much easier than that.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #68
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opposite sides of the dash, i wrote that I don't want to run a wire from the left to the right and remove a lot of my dash again, done it more times than i would have liked already. the way i have it depicted should work, the relay shouldn't draw more than 0.15a, and the lights themselves only draw about 10, so no chance of overloading the fuse. the BIU/bypassing it is the only thing I am unsure of, and need more research/testing i plan to get in there with a meter and see if that FOG fuse is hot all the time the ignition is on (it should be from what i saw on the diagram). and also to see if there is any kind of voltage on the VY wires (hoping there isn't) then i can either tie them together or leave it as is and the dash indicator might still work really really looks simple to me to do it this way. no extra parts required, can't get much easier than that.
I am like a kid, just skip words and go straight to pics. Sorry missed the first part of your post. ;-)
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:02 PM   #69
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i had a chance this morning i thought to check around under the dash and test wires, but to really get a good look and access to everything you need to remove the glovebox trim and the trim near the knee air bag. it could be done w/o but since I want as much access to work as possible (and take pics for you guys) I am going to do it on monday when I actually do the mod work
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:43 PM   #70
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doing some more research,

http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/11-s...s-anytime.html link may or may not work, if it doesn't on the top of the page they have a custom google search box, just search foglights anytime and you will find the thread.

further proof that this should work for us too, and I don't see an easier way IMHO. pics/mod on monday unless someone beats me to it.


so in summary of what I will be doing:
1. I will be cutting the Black/Green wire to the relay
2. I will tap the Red/Blue to the Black Green, this will provide power for both sides of the relay
3. I will leave the Violet/Yellow wire to the BIU intact, but tap off it.
4. I will cut the Violet/Yellow from from the BIU to the relay, but attach a wire from the tap on the other VY wire to after the cut so it goes directly to the relay.

this should allow Fogs on whenever, but off when key is off
indicator on dash should still work, but only when low beams are on (BIU controlling, and that is how it is programmed to work)


Last edited by flyboy1100; 12-07-2013 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:53 PM   #71
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That looks good. Looks like what we were talking about. I just wasn't sure about BIU, as I wanted the dash light on with the switch. I was probably over thinking it. Hope to do the same mod soon. Just too busy right now to have time to. After first of the year I'll have a little free time.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:40 AM   #72
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Revoked my statement! Upon further thought, the WRX "splice" technique was a bad idea... backfeeding potential onto another circuit is a bad idea...

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Old 12-08-2013, 08:46 AM   #73
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Revoked my statement! Upon further thought, the WRX "splice" technique was a bad idea... backfeeding potential onto another circuit is a bad idea...
What?
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:52 AM   #74
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What?
I had done a search to find where our DRL module was yesterday before going to a Christmas light display, and saw this thread, noticed our wiring was the same and initially thought "yay! There's our solution", then the engineer in me said.. "no... that's a really bad idea, unless you like melted relays and fires".

Referring to this thread below...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ht=disable+drl
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:58 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by BrysImpreza View Post

I had done a search to find where our DRL module was yesterday before going to a Christmas light display, and saw this thread, noticed our wiring was the same and initially thought "yay! There's our solution", then the engineer in me said.. "no... that's a really bad idea, unless you like melted relays and fires".

Referring to this thread below...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ht=disable+drl
Oh.

Pics tomorrow when I'm done
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