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Old 01-06-2014, 09:03 AM   #26
stuiephoto
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I had set the gauge pod aside for a while. I learned a lot about aluminum welding making this. First, its really hard to weld aluminum in tight spaces-- torch angle is so important that unless you can get it where you want it you end up blowing material away. Also, the plate warped quite a bit from the heat which was not expected. Long story short, the welds looked like hell so I decided to fill them with body filler and smooth out the fillet. This took WAYY more time than I would have wanted and was a PITA.


Its not perfect, but I was getting frustrated and wanted it done. Sprayed it with some black plasti-dip and called it a day.



Its been a while since the hood has been able to close! Its starting to look like a car.


Harvey wired up the headlights last week. There is no documentation on this that I have found so i figured I would write it down. Ill edit this will better info later.

Relay. These are OEM in subarus and were pulled from scrap cars to use for this project.



HID plug


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Last edited by stuiephoto; 01-06-2014 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:04 AM   #27
stuiephoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Subb'd
Haha. You managed to get in before I posted everything.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:06 AM   #28
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuiephoto View Post

Haha. You managed to get in before I posted everything.
I am like ninja
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:20 AM   #29
tibug
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This is awesome.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:29 AM   #30
04trailsti
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RSTI swaps never get old! Good looking car, good kick with OLOA.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:37 AM   #31
liltoua
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awesome progress so far. I'm jelly!
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:06 AM   #32
subydude
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Good stuffs!
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:43 AM   #33
Steve.804
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Wow great project! Everything looks great

Thanks for the idea on the bead tool!

Also check out the ISIS bumper clips available through Import Image Racing. I've got a couple sets that I'm awaiting to get back from paint.
ISIS universal clips
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:12 PM   #34
subydude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve.804 View Post
Wow great project! Everything looks great

Thanks for the idea on the bead tool!

Also check out the ISIS bumper clips available through Import Image Racing. I've got a couple sets that I'm awaiting to get back from paint.
ISIS universal clips
If you don't need to order from a racing site, these are cheaper and do the same thing

Amico 2 Pcs Box Chest Case Stainless Steel Tone Draw Toggle Latch 1.7" - Amazon.comAmico 2 Pcs Box Chest Case Stainless Steel Tone Draw Toggle Latch 1.7" - Amazon.com
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:44 PM   #35
delongedoug
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Madness!
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:01 PM   #36
tibug
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I love how easy you make it seem too.
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:15 PM   #37
Steve.804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
If you don't need to order from a racing site, these are cheaper and do the same thing

Amico 2 Pcs Box Chest Case Stainless Steel Tone Draw Toggle Latch 1.7" - Amazon.com
I like the spring loaded ones so if you were to bump a curb or whatever there is a very slight amount of give in the clips as opposed to stretching the holes in the bumper or maybe even the fender.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:43 PM   #38
stuiephoto
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Thanks for the kind words and suggestions!

I always am hesitant to post stuff that I do. I critize my own work pretty heavily and there's a lot of stuff on this car that brothers me, but its all nit-picking small things. For instance, I drilled a hole in the wrong spot for one of the intercooler pipes-- drives me crazy having a hole there. When I cut the hole out on the drivers side for the intake, the saw wandered a bit and I trimmed the wheel well a bit more than I would have liked so the cover plate I made only covered 98% of the intake hole. I always kick myself for stuff like that because it could have been prevented by taking 2 more seconds to be more careful.

I really like this car so far. Its nuts how little money I have spent on it given what's in it. I estimate I'm only at about 12,000 so far. I managed to get a ton of really good deals by waiting to buy stuff. Long block was $1200 with perfect leak down. Accessport was $300. Rotated kit was <$2000 for everything.

I'm still working trying to decide what offset wheel I want to run. Many flared setups don't run sti control arms so its tough to determine the proper offset. I'll be getting rota grids/torques unless I can find someone willing to give me a great deal on a set of 5 enkeis. As I said, this is a budget conscious build and I truly don't believe the negatives of tracking rota wheels after seeing multiple time attack teams having no issues. I am going to run 17x9 with 255 Dunlop z2's or Gforce rivals. I have a local person with +22 offset wheels that I am going to use as a baseline for setting my offset. I'll probably end up with +30 and run a 5mm spacer if needed.

Edit: before anyone says why not a wider tire. For OLOA, you need to order your tires from tire rack, and for 17" tires they don't carry wider than 255.

Last edited by stuiephoto; 01-06-2014 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:05 PM   #39
subydude
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The STi arms are 10mm wider per side, or 20mm overall. But it's just at the bottom, so you can use some of it as added camber. I have the GC aluminum arms on mine because narrower cars are quicker at autox.

I've spent some time working on wheels with my RSTi and the two best tools I've used to figure out what offset to run are a tape measure and calculator. If you tell me how much the flares stick out past the stock fenders, I can probably give you a ball park width and offset that'll work.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:46 PM   #40
EE06STI
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Two of my favorite things about this car are that it's a 95 (pre-obd2) and that's it was a stripped down Brighton from the factory with none of that heavy sunroof stuff.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:26 AM   #41
Sylvain b
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Hi. Nice build thread!

I also have a little 1993 impreza L with flares and I am also trying to do a lot with less You can watch my thread here;
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2585930

I do have the 2006 STI control arms. I use two sets of rotas:
- 17x9 with 42 offset DPT.
- 17x9,5 rota grid with 35 mm offset.

I run 275-40-17 on bo0th wheels. The main problem if the diameter. I tries some used hooseir in 295-35-17 and the fit better.

Dont hesitate to ask question. I can take pcitures and measurements if you need.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:00 PM   #42
EE06STI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvain b View Post
I do have the 2006 STI control arms. I use two sets of rotas:
- 17x9 with 42 offset DPT.
- 17x9,5 rota grid with 35 mm offset.

I run 275-40-17 on bo0th wheels. The main problem if the diameter. I tries some used hooseir in 295-35-17 and the fit better.

Dont hesitate to ask question. I can take pcitures and measurements if you need.
What suspension are you using? How low is your car?
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:10 PM   #43
Sylvain b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EE06STI View Post
What suspension are you using? How low is your car?
I am curently running a stance comp 2. I am not running low. Rear lateral links are still lower at the wheels by a little less than one inch.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:05 PM   #44
Sylvain b
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My spring rate are 14k/12k F/R. It was too stiff for the track conditions we have. I will run 12k/10k.

Sometime the rear will rubs on very bumpy track.
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:38 PM   #45
Gex
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That is quite the project! Looks great so far. I loved reading about the OLOA in CarandDriver years ago.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:05 PM   #46
infantsam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuiephoto View Post
Option 2 is to put the entire STI harness in the car, and wire whatever is necessary on the body. With this, you use ALL STI components such as the dash, HVAC, etc. The downside is that you have to wire every last bit-- headlights, tail lights, windows, wipers, yada yada. I found this to be not that big of a deal, and I already have half of it done.
That's the way my car was done.

It did take forever but in the end everything worked. I didn't do it - no way I'm that good.

Still ended up parting out the car though. GL

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Old 01-08-2014, 08:12 PM   #47
stuiephoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infantsam View Post
That's the way my car was done.

It did take forever but in the end everything worked. I didn't do it - no way I'm that good.

Still ended up parting out the car though. GL

The hard part is windows and locks. I'm not running power locks, and the windows will be wired independent of the body harness and run off of switches in the center console. The headlights weren't difficult once my friend figured out the wiring. I'm a retard when it comes to electricity. The tail lights, blinkers, windshield wipers, etc were all easy.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:35 PM   #48
yebokmj
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I've read that the Forester XT hose works great for your kinking issue with the upper radiator hose. It common for swaps with upgraded radiators to have this concern. I have a swap and plan on upgrading my radiator soon.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #49
stuiephoto
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Originally Posted by yebokmj View Post
I've read that the Forester XT hose works great for your kinking issue with the upper radiator hose. It common for swaps with upgraded radiators to have this concern. I have a swap and plan on upgrading my radiator soon.
I read that it's the foz xt crossover pipe that works. Please post up if you use it and it works.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:28 PM   #50
yebokmj
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I've never read crossover pipe, that seem less likely. It's a lot of work to change the crossover pipe unless you already have things torn down. I'm sure it would have been mentioned. I did go to opposed forces and check out the parts catalog though and there are a few different cross over pipe part numbers for the Forester XT none which are the same as the Impreza or Legacy 2.5 turbo motors. My upgrade plans for the radiator will wait till spring and warmer weather though.
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