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Old 06-02-2014, 02:44 PM   #426
fedj18
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Clearances that are outside of recommended spec may work for a short term but in the long run it will greatly accelerate wear and cause failure.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:09 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fedj18 View Post
Clearances that are outside of recommended spec may work for a short term but in the long run it will greatly accelerate wear and cause failure.
You haven't built EJ257's for very long, have you?

Last edited by 2Fast4U1DAY; 06-02-2014 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:28 PM   #428
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Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
Question for you guys - just threw in a set of king main bearings - std size and I am getting readings anywhere from .0023 to .0025 on the mains for clearance. What are people's thoughts on this? Most people recommend .0015-.002 but this is a used block and I will not have it lined bored. Are there clearances acceptable or way to large?
Anybody have any input on this? Im finding this to be a big unknown point for me. Bump from Orlando !
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:50 PM   #429
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Originally Posted by BlazeRex View Post
Question for you guys - just threw in a set of king main bearings - std size and I am getting readings anywhere from .0023 to .0025 on the mains for clearance. What are people's thoughts on this? Most people recommend .0015-.002 but this is a used block and I will not have it lined bored. Are there clearances acceptable or way to large?
Too large IMO I would either have it line bored or get a new case
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:02 PM   #430
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Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Anybody have any input on this? Im finding this to be a big unknown point for me. Bump from Orlando !
thats bigger than I would want to run. I know a company does or was talking about making +.001 and -.001 bearing and you can mix and match bearings like +.001 and std size to dial in the specs you desire.

Like I said no point in really worrying too much about it until you throw the bearings in and measure.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:39 PM   #431
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Thanks guys for the input - I think I'll go with it. My rods Are all about .0023 with the king extra oil clearance. They are very consistent, but unfortunately just not cutting it on the mains. The king mains are the nicest too it's too bad they don't make a less oil clearance one. My current only option is to get the cosworth size 0 (acl oversize) for the mains and try it, but I don't know how much that'll help.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:36 PM   #432
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Ok, so i've cleaned the cases of any bearing materials. I forgot to spray them down immediately so there are small rust dots around, but I think they will all clean up np.

What i'm wondering about is these lines down each of the cylinder walls. They weren't there after honing. All ring end gaps were set within the specs provided by CP. I used the proform ring filer which assists you in performing an even file.

I can't feel anything with my nail, but am curious if this is part of the ring seating process, etc.

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Old 06-06-2014, 12:53 PM   #433
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Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Ok, so i've cleaned the cases of any bearing materials. I forgot to spray them down immediately so there are small rust dots around, but I think they will all clean up np.

What i'm wondering about is these lines down each of the cylinder walls. They weren't there after honing. All ring end gaps were set within the specs provided by CP. I used the proform ring filer which assists you in performing an even file.

I can't feel anything with my nail, but am curious if this is part of the ring seating process, etc.
Yes thats from the rings seating.
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:41 PM   #434
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Yes thats from the rings seating.
Here are what the pistons and the bore look like. The marks seem to correlate with the bottom of the skirts, due to the slight scuffing on the skirt and that the markings go all the way to the bottom of the bore. Not sure if this is normal. The rings don't really looks worn or damaged, in my unprofessional opinion :P










Last edited by BeastianSTI; 06-06-2014 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:58 PM   #435
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Here are what the pistons and the bore look like. The marks seem to correlate with the bottom of the skirts, due to the slight scuffing on the skirt and that the markings go all the way to the bottom of the bore. Not sure if this is normal. The rings don't really looks worn or damaged, in my unprofessional opinion :P
Pretty normal looking. You are always going to get a minor amout of scuff on the CP's I have found because they do not have a pin offset so they tend to side load just enough to get a little bit of scuff on the bottom of the skirt. Nothing major to worry about unless you can catch your fingernails in the bore or can feel that material has transferred onto the skirt. I have had those same kinds of markings from just installing a piston and turning the crank to line up the next one.
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:17 PM   #436
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY View Post
Pretty normal looking. You are always going to get a minor amout of scuff on the CP's I have found because they do not have a pin offset so they tend to side load just enough to get a little bit of scuff on the bottom of the skirt. Nothing major to worry about unless you can catch your fingernails in the bore or can feel that material has transferred onto the skirt. I have had those same kinds of markings from just installing a piston and turning the crank to line up the next one.
Awesome - was really hoping this was a pretty normal occurrence. I think i'm going to go King Bearings for rods and mains this time. Looking at getting the 2011 STi crankshaft today as well!
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:50 PM   #437
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I tip my hat to you for doing this yourself. I don't have the balls for this.
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:32 PM   #438
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I tip my hat to you for doing this yourself. I don't have the balls for this.
Either im a sucker for subarus or just stupid lol
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:32 PM   #439
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Points for keeping your chin up and problem solving. Awesome stuff
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:08 PM   #440
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Points for keeping your chin up and problem solving. Awesome stuff
Thanks dude.

After talking with John at Outfront, im really pondering the cause of the bearing damage. It sounds more like there was debris in the heads or something that didnt make it out, rather than just an oil pressure issue. He said that the assembly lube should mitigate that issue, and you could likely run an engine for 20 seconds on just lube itself without seeing oil pressure, and we would be just fine.
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:38 PM   #441
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I went to harbor freight tools and got myself a telescoping blow gun for my compressor just to make sure I don't have that after getting pieces back from the machine shop. Never hurts to triple check everything. You'll get it sorted. Gonna make it all the more sweeter once she is running since you put in the work yourself.
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Old 06-07-2014, 11:18 PM   #442
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I went to harbor freight tools and got myself a telescoping blow gun for my compressor just to make sure I don't have that after getting pieces back from the machine shop. Never hurts to triple check everything. You'll get it sorted. Gonna make it all the more sweeter once she is running since you put in the work yourself.

Yeah thats probably something I should pick up. I actually just recently got my aor compressor going, which I'm considering to be essential this time around ha ha!
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:08 AM   #443
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Id replace all bearings and proly the crank. Anythin that catches your nail can't be that good. Sell it for a 100 to someone that wants to use a polished crank and buy a new one for 350
So now that i'm picking up a new crank etc...

How confident are we all that the cause of my failure was low oil pressure? Just so I make sure that i'm not turning a blind eye to other possibilities of course
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:35 AM   #444
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Bump - any input guys?
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:58 AM   #445
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Was that or heads/block wasn't cleaned well enough. That's why I'd spend 1-200 to have a machine shop clean both very we'll. make sure they pull on the hex plugs in the heads also.


Sucks when you rip something apart and can't pin point what caused the issue...
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:47 PM   #446
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Was that or heads/block wasn't cleaned well enough. That's why I'd spend 1-200 to have a machine shop clean both very we'll. make sure they pull on the hex plugs in the heads also.


Sucks when you rip something apart and can't pin point what caused the issue...
Definitely...

I have a second source which said...

Quote:
that damage is for sure dirt, this is a lack of knowledge on where and what to clean
It was also mentioned that there are certain tricks to the trade that aren't public knowledge. For example, there are little bits of metal shavings and burrs that are embedded in the cylinder wall even after it's cleaned up. You need to take dish soap and a scotch brite pad to the cylinder walls etc to get everything cleaned out. John @ Outfront mentioned this to me over the phone on Friday. Looks like I really need to go crazy to clean everything up even after it comes back from the machine shop. Hot tanking really doesn't do much.
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:25 PM   #447
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We need to get a thread on how to clean an engine after it comes back from the machine shop
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:35 PM   #448
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Definitely...

I have a second source which said...

It was also mentioned that there are certain tricks to the trade that aren't public knowledge. For example, there are little bits of metal shavings and burrs that are embedded in the cylinder wall even after it's cleaned up. You need to take dish soap and a scotch brite pad to the cylinder walls etc to get everything cleaned out. John @ Outfront mentioned this to me over the phone on Friday. Looks like I really need to go crazy to clean everything up even after it comes back from the machine shop. Hot tanking really doesn't do much.
Thats why I use atf to clean the cyl walls till I dont get anymore "dirt" coming off.

I use ATF for two reasons.

High detergent to help pull surface dirt and debris (shavings and burrs) away from the wall.

The red color of the ATF gives you a visibility factor.

Last edited by 2Fast4U1DAY; 06-10-2014 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:50 PM   #449
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Sucks - I really thought everything was nice and clean. Tied a large plastic bag around the engine stand every time I finished working with the engine too haha.

Now I see why you say to use ATF.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:52 PM   #450
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So loving this thread right now!!
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