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Old 06-10-2014, 02:10 PM   #451
Paul
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Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Hot tanking really doesn't do much.
It does but not enough all by itself. Sonic cleaning is def better but regardless I'd still do some cleaning before and after.

What john said to do is something I'd hope any shop would do after the machine work.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:17 PM   #452
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It does but not enough all by itself. Sonic cleaning is def better but regardless I'd still do some cleaning before and after.

What john said to do is something I'd hope any shop would do after the machine work.
Care to give us a low-down on what the process you guys would perform to prep a block to be assembled? Not just limited to Paul here either. 2Fast4u...
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:25 PM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post

Care to give us a low-down on what the process you guys would perform to prep a block to be assembled? Not just limited to Paul here either. 2Fast4u...
After I am done with machining I take an air gun and blow compressed air through every oil galley, in each bore (including mains) any anywhere else chips might be able to hide. Then we just hot tank, ultra sonic clean, and then I do my wipe down with ATF. Even after all of that I can still go through a whole roll of paper towels cleaning up the bores. Finish with a new microfiber. Never had any contamination failures to date.
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Old 06-10-2014, 05:32 PM   #454
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY View Post
After I am done with machining I take an air gun and blow compressed air through every oil galley, in each bore (including mains) any anywhere else chips might be able to hide. Then we just hot tank, ultra sonic clean, and then I do my wipe down with ATF. Even after all of that I can still go through a whole roll of paper towels cleaning up the bores. Finish with a new microfiber. Never had any contamination failures to date.
Good info here for sure.

I feel like I shouldn't have assembled the block before having my air compressor up and running. You really can't just rely on the cleaning from a machine shop; not because they do a crappy job, but it's just not as detailed as what is REQUIRED for assembly.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:13 PM   #455
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I use carb cleaner and an air gun on the compressor. On cylinders I use the same and a sponge slog with a magnet.
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:38 AM   #456
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Ok - so here is the process I have taken to clean the heads:

1. Removed all allen screws from cylinder head
2. Sprayed through all exposed holes including cam lubrication ports with brake parts cleaner
3. Filled a large bucket with hot water, a bunch of dish soap and a splash of degreaser.
4. Kept pulling head up 75% of the way out and letting it drop back it, etc to swish water through all ports.
5. Flipped head over in bucket and continued swishing.
6. Pulled the heads out of the bucket, allowing any crud to escape. Dunked and repeated.
7. Rinsed the head out through the port holes, etc. thoroughly
8. Brought head downstairs and used the air compressor to spray everything out.
9. Hit everything thoroughly with brake parts cleaner
10. Dry everything using the air compressor.
11. Installed hex plugs and covered the heads up!

All new bearings have been cleaned up as well. Once the crank gets in, she'll be ready to get mostly assembled again!
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:59 AM   #457
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Company23 ring compressor came in the mail today. This thing is DEFINITELY going to work so much better than the sheet metal sleeve mechanism. I feel like I could drop a piston in with my pinky lol. Seems very easy to use too; just a worm clamp you tighten with your finger until the ends meet and you're good to go.
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Old 06-13-2014, 12:50 PM   #458
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How much crap came off the heads with all of the cleaning??
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:12 PM   #459
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How much crap came off the heads with all of the cleaning??
The heads were professionally cleaned before I cleaned them of any bearing materials, but.. I found all sorts of little goodies in the bottom of the bucket. Not sure if they came from the exterior of the cylinder heads or inside, but I douched em out pretty good lmao
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Old 06-13-2014, 02:57 PM   #460
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Well... Now that i've taken all these oil galley plugs oil ( small allen key and larger ones for coolant I think? )....

What are the torque specs for these little plugs? Do I need to apply any sealant etc to them?
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:27 AM   #461
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bumpppp
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:18 PM   #462
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Didn't go through the entire thread so I have no idea where you're at or what you're in need of, but Carey Holzman on YouTube has the break down and rebuild process for our engines. Done buy a guy named Mike Bauer he's a master subaru mechanic in AZ.

If you need spec sheets I believe flatirons tuning will send you them, you just have to call and ask.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #463
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Didn't go through the entire thread so I have no idea where you're at or what you're in need of, but Carey Holzman on YouTube has the break down and rebuild process for our engines. Done buy a guy named Mike Bauer he's a master subaru mechanic in AZ.

If you need spec sheets I believe flatirons tuning will send you them, you just have to call and ask.
Yar - ive seen that one. Im looking for torque specs for the oil galley plugs on the heads
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:31 PM   #464
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Yar - ive seen that one. Im looking for torque specs for the oil galley plugs on the heads


Anybody ?? I cant find the torque specs in the manual anywhere
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:28 AM   #465
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OK - I guess you seal them up with RTV of some sort.

Next question - I cleaned the crankshaft with soap and water and ended up seeing this haze on the crank pins... Not really sure what's up with it. When I buff the crank pin with a microfiber towel but it doesn't really make a difference:

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Old 06-18-2014, 11:05 AM   #466
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Bummpppp. Is this normal? I can't really feel it with my finger, but i'm not sure if the heat treating just went crazy with hot water, etc...
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:28 PM   #467
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Dude, I just read your entire thread and you my friend are not only ballsy (rebuilding your own motor) but you are definitely a problem solver! I wish you the best in getting your ride up and running again. Definitely subscribing.
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:01 AM   #468
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OK - I guess you seal them up with RTV of some sort. Next question - I cleaned the crankshaft with soap and water and ended up seeing this haze on the crank pins... Not really sure what's up with it. When I buff the crank pin with a microfiber towel but it doesn't really make a difference:
Ummm... Please oil it! It is probably rusting....
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Old 06-19-2014, 12:10 AM   #469
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Ummm... Please oil it! It is probably rusting....
The crank was just in soapy water, and immediately afterwards, I started rinsing, drying and spraying it down with wd40.
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:23 PM   #470
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For anyone looking on a basic break-down of how to clean a block up before assembly, here's an article I found on another forum:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how...-block.362154/
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:13 PM   #471
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OK guys, one of the local builders suggested that the block wasn't machined to the right specifications. He also said that he has had to send blocks back to the machine shop many times because they were incorrectly cut.

I just measured all of the bores, and with my Fowler dial bore gauge, (.0005 accuracy?) each of the cylinder PTW clearances appear to measure .0020-.0022. Could measuring without a torque plate / the cases torqued together cause such an inaccuracy, or do you think it could be incorrectly cut?

Last edited by BeastianSTI; 06-20-2014 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:19 PM   #472
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You mean your ptw clearances???
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:21 PM   #473
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Yeah, sorry lol. Edited my post as well.

The PTW clearances appear to measure between .0020-.0022 with no torque plate / the cases bolted together.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:42 PM   #474
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Wouldn't of use feeler gauhes to measure ptw clearances and the dial bore gauge to measure the mains with the cases bolted together??
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:52 PM   #475
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Wouldn't of use feeler gauhes to measure ptw clearances and the dial bore gauge to measure the mains with the cases bolted together??
You would use a feeler gauge between piston rings to check the piston end gap. The dial bore gauge is used to measure inner diameters of rods (w/ bearings), cylinders and main bearing clearances.
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