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Old 01-29-2014, 08:18 PM   #26
berb_15
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I think to get my motor bored slightly/honed, crank line honed, block/rotating assembly assembled, heads cleaned and aftermarket springs/retainers installed was about 1300. I had him do my block/rotating assembly because I wanted to be sure everything was done correctly, it's not that much more expensive and worth it when you're pouring thousands into a motor. I installed the heads/camshafts and all accessories to save a dollar. Every time I've built a motor the machine shop takes measurements on the cylinder walls and recommends the least amount to have the walls bored. With that info you can pick your piston size, usually they won't bore and hone your cylinder walls until they have your pistons. They also decked my block and milled my head slightly just for perfection at the head gasket mating surfaces. I used stock head gaskets and I'm running 410 whp.

You can reuse your stock head bolts but I'd recommend getting ARP head studs if you're looking to go with 430 hp. Your stock bolts could possibly stretch and cause a head gasket to fail. They're cheap considering the cost of the build.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:40 AM   #27
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I'm going to go with the ARP's. The installation procedure seems pretty straight forward ...

Clean thread holes... Apply ARP ultra-torque lube to threads... put them in hand tight... put heads on / gasket then torque 30, 60, 90 then 90 after an hour. Does that work well?
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
I'm going to go with the ARP's. The installation procedure seems pretty straight forward ...

Clean thread holes... Apply ARP ultra-torque lube to threads... put them in hand tight... put heads on / gasket then torque 30, 60, 90 then 90 after an hour. Does that work well?
IIRC didnt ARP change the final tq to 100 lb-ft
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:18 PM   #29
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Hmm... That was as per their documentation on tier website. Is there a newer version ?
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:16 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Hmm... That was as per their documentation on tier website. Is there a newer version ?
I remember being informed of a revision to final tq spec but I cant find the thread. I dont remember if the revision was to 90 or 100 lb ft. ....

Call an ARP rep and get it from the horses mouth...

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Old 02-17-2014, 06:05 PM   #31
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Ok - getting closer to pulling the engine now. Got my secondary car yesterday, and now i'm planning it all out. So as far as measuring the main clearances with how our case halves go together... Will I be able to bolt the case together and put a long bore gauge into each section to measure each main, or is there another way to accomplish this? Any links to details on performing this on an EJ would be awesome.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Ok - getting closer to pulling the engine now. Got my secondary car yesterday, and now i'm planning it all out. So as far as measuring the main clearances with how our case halves go together... Will I be able to bolt the case together and put a long bore gauge into each section to measure each main, or is there another way to accomplish this? Any links to details on performing this on an EJ would be awesome.
Torque the halves together, set your bore gage to 2.5197 (max allowed) and measure all 5 at 3 clock positions. Best to stand the block on it's back so you are holding the bore gage vertically. If it reads any more than .001" big anywhere, it's best to have it line bored but you might get away with mix and matching std and +.001" brgs.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:17 PM   #33
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Is plastigauge by any means a considerable option for the job?
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:09 PM   #34
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Plastigage is just not a good idea in a Suby block. If you don't have the right measuring tools, find someone who does and knows how to use them, correctly.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:53 PM   #35
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So far so good!

I figured it would be cool if I posted some pictures as i'm tearing everything down. Cam gear bolts were really easy to remove with the flywheel jamming method. The crank pulley bolt was the hardest, if anything. I've been bagging every nut meticulously and writing on each bag.

I feel like this time I had a nice chain setup which made the engine easy to remove. I left it on the wheels while doing it so that there weren't any issues with crane height ( my buddy pulled his while the car was on jackstands, and it was a PAIN. )...

I stopped before pulling the cams because I wanted to be certain of the order to remove the cam bolts to be certain that I will not damage the cams in the process.









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Old 02-25-2014, 12:53 PM   #36
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Here are some more...










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Old 02-25-2014, 12:54 PM   #37
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:24 PM   #38
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Hey guys,

So I tore off the heads and a bunch of other bits last night. Here are some pictures. Hoping to document everything when I put it back together. I did make an interesting finding though.

One question before that... I removed the cam bolts and brackets in the order ( so I think ) that the manual specifies, and one of the cams came out no problem, but it seemed like the other one was plain old stuck on the head. Light tugging wouldn't remove it, so I lightly pried from the back while having a buddy support the front of the cam. I think it was the exhaust cam... Anybody run into this before?





Now for the pics and interesting pat:

I was running into what we thought was false knock... Found this old socket after I pulled the cross-case coolant passage...



Cylinder 4 and 2. Cylinder 2 is on the right side ( blown ringland looks like, since no hole in the piston )...







Driver side head. You can see cylinder 2 was burning up quite a bit of oil ( bottom ). Compression was about 80.







The compression on these cylinders appeared to be ok. No structural damage from what I can see. Dirty pistons though!

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Old 02-28-2014, 04:26 PM   #39
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So i'm doing some research about the heads... They all seem to be making a good seal, with a liquid test but i'd like to clean up the valve tops and possible install some new springs. Could this easily be something I could DIY?
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:14 PM   #40
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Yes.

buy the company 23 valve spring compressor, a brass bristle wire brush ( I prefer the bench grinder style) and some lapping suction cups and a good lapping paste.

Compress springs with spring compressor, remove valves and what not. The brass bristle brush is soft enough not to damage the steel valves and will just get all the carbon off fast, rather than soaking. Lap the valves into their seats labeling them so they go back in the same port. clean it up all nice. then reassemble with new valve springs.

While you have the valves in I pull the exhaust studs and set it on its side and soak the ports with carb cleaner, the carbon will flake right off. If you have air pumps make sure the plate is on the back of the head as the passage between will fill/ equalize/ drain if its not blocked.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:32 PM   #41
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Somebody mentioned that it's much better to have a machine shop reseat the valves, and that it messes up the seal?
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:49 PM   #42
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yeah they cut the faces of the valves and the seats so they have a nice smooth contact surface, it usually upwards of $300.

You can put the cams in and spin them over to open the valves and inspect them. If they're burnt at all they'll have little chunks missing.

First thing I'd do is put some gas or cleaner in the ports and see if they seal. If they seal you don't "NEED" a valve job. People say a such and such angle valve job helps with flow, but the biggest hindrance to the subaru port is the transition between the runner and seat.

So in short.

Make sure they seal, if not you need a valve job anyways (lapping could fix if its not bad)

If you are doing it for performance a bowl blend/ seat transition will net better flow than a 57 angle valve job.

You could have it blended and lap the valves back in and assemble it yourself if you want.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:49 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin V View Post
People say a such and such angle valve job helps with flow, but the biggest hindrance to the subaru port is the transition between the runner and seat. So in short. Make sure they seal, if not you need a valve job anyways (lapping could fix if its not bad) If you are doing it for performance a bowl blend/ seat transition will net better flow than a 57 angle valve job.
You're half right.
The bowl blend and bitchin' valve job go hand in hand. The hindrance you're referring to is actually part of the seat insert which would be the throat right below the bottom angle. An aggressive seat relocation using a nice radius profile will leave a big sharp jump in this area which begs for a pocket port in the throat, followed by a nice hand blend.
This approach can yield around 60% of the flow gains you'd see in a full meal deal type head job.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:43 PM   #44
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OK - so if they seal properly, but I just want to take them out, clean them up and replace the valve springs / seals then I could do that myself?
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:30 AM   #45
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Alright --

I've removed the crankshaft and disconnected the rods from the crank. Bagged them all up just in case, and i'm going to bring them to the machine shop just to get a health check on them.

I'm going to be doing CP pistons with Brian Crower H-beam rods. I'm going to the machine shop tomorrow to drop it off to be measured so I can buy the pistons.

Has anyone dropped a piston wrist bolt clip while putting the pistons in ??
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:15 AM   #46
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I have 99.75 cp pistons brand new in box for sale if that is the size you end up needing
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:39 AM   #47
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Stock compression @ 8.2:1?
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:03 PM   #48
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Hey guys, i'm not sure if I understand how to determine if my block is #3 or #5 thrust... Can this be identified via this photo?


Last edited by BeastianSTI; 03-05-2014 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:29 PM   #49
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I believe it is stock compression
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:00 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Hey guys, i'm not sure if I understand how to determine if my block is #3 or #5 thrust... Can this be identified via this photo?
Ej 257 correct? Thatd be #3 thrust
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